Brown Butter Blondies

I’ve never been completely sold on ‘blondies’ (‘brownies’ which are made with vanilla instead of cocoa). On the first bite my taste buds cry out ‘but where’s the chocolate?!’… But, on tasting this recipe from cookbook writer Nina Parker, I changed my mind! The brown butter really gives a wonderful depth to the blondie’s vanilla flavour plus they do have some chocolate chips! They are very moreish, particularly if you try one warm, straight from the oven – you have been warned…

250g unsalted butter

240g muscovado brown sugar

2 eggs

2 tablespoons maple syrup

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 teaspoon salt

140g plain flour (gluten free if required)

120g ground almonds

1 teaspoon baking powder

100g dark chocolate, roughly chopped (I use Lindt Excellence 70% Cocoa Dark Chocolate)

*8-inch square tin, lined with baking paper

1. To make the brown butter, melt the butter in a small saucepan on a medium to high heat. As the butter melts and begins to bubble move it around the pan and continue to cook until the butter starts to darken a little and you smell a hazelnut aroma – it will take around 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and transfer to a bowl and allow to cool.
2. In a bowl mix together the flour, ground almonds, baking powder and sea salt, put to one side.
3. In another bowl combine well the muscovado sugar, eggs, maple syrup and vanilla extract. Slowly add this mixture to the cooled brown butter and mix to form a smooth, silky batter.
4. Finally, stir in the flour mixure and mix until everything is incorporated. Transfer to the lined baking tin and sprinkle over the chopped chocolate. Bake in a preheated oven, 160’c fan, for 35 minutes, until a skin has formed on top but the inside will still be gooey – it will firm up as it cools.
5. Allow to cool in the tin (if you can resist!) before slicing into squares. Enjoy!

I’ve been feeling rather nostalgic lately. The start of the new year has brought memories from the past, plus with my son, Felix, recently flying the nest I’ve been overwhelmed by sentimental feelings; a mix of hope for the future yet also a longing for the past – where did my toddler go?!… Hence my kitchen has been filled with memories. I’ve been cooking up some old dishes (in a very modern way!) to the sounds of my childhood; a seventies soundtrack – a bit of Bowie with a taste of Abba thrown in! What better way to welcome in January than with some old classic dishes…

Menu One is ‘Coq au Riesling’, the classic of the classic dishes; a creamy take on ‘Coq au Vin’. A dish that not only exudes nostalgia but also comfort with its winey, creamy sauce. I favour Nigel Slaters’ recipe from his cookbook ‘Real Food’, the flavours are perfectly balanced and it’s relatively quick and easy to make. It deserves to be served with some smooth mashed potatoes, but it’s pretty good with just a green salad if you’re feeling virtuous! Menu Two is another chicken dish ‘Baked Chicken and Chorizo’. It’s a recipe which my friend introduced me to, it’s her ‘old classic’ family recipe, one which is good enough to be served to both family and friends; it’s been known to turn up on her ‘dinner-party table’. It’s been appearing on our supper table lately so I thought that it was time to share it with you! Menu Three is ‘Spiced Sausage Ragu’, another classic but with a modern spicy punch – a good recipe on a cold, winter’s day. Finally, Menu Four is perhaps the ultimate vegetarian classic, ‘Macaroni Cheese with Cherry Tomatoes’. I remember my mum making macaroni cheese back in the seventies, I wasn’t keen on it in those days as according to my fussy, childish taste buds it was too cheesy – perhaps if my mum had followed this recipe with cherry tomatoes I would have been asking for seconds (although in her defence, cherry tomatoes weren’t a thing you could easily find on the shelves of a seventies grocery shop!). Not only is this a fabulous version of macaroni cheese due to the sweet addition of roasted tomatoes but it’s hassle-free; instead of making a cheese sauce from scratch it calls for mascarpone cheese simply combined with Emmental cheese – so easy!…

So with these recipes shared the only thing I must do is wish you all “A Very Happy New Year”!!…

(If, like me, you’re feeling nostalgic, you’ll love my new playlist!… Click here to listen to ‘Music to Cook to…Menu Music Twenty Two’)

Menu One

Coq au Riesling (Serves 4)

This is the classic of classic dishes; a creamy take on ‘Coq au Vin’. A dish that not only exudes nostalgia but also comfort with its winey, creamy sauce. This particular recipe is from Nigel Slater’s cookbook ‘Real Food’, I’ve slightly adapted it to serve four. The flavours are perfectly balanced and it’s relatively quick and easy to make. It deserves to be served with some smooth mashed potatoes, but it’s pretty good with just a crisp green salad if you’re feeling virtuous!

50g butter

1 tablespoon olive oil

150g pancetta or streaky bacon, diced

2 onions, chopped

4 cloves of garlic, chopped

8 chicken thighs

250g chestnut mushrooms, halved or quartered

500ml medium-dry wine, such as Reisling

250ml double cream

3 tablespoons chopped parsley

Sea salt and black pepper

1. Melt the butter in a casserole and add the olive oil. Fry the diced pancetta (or streaky bacon), when it’s browned add the onions and garlic. Leave to cook over a moderate heat until the onions have softened but not coloured, then scoop everything out of the pan with a slotted spoon and keep to one side.
2. Add the chicken thighs to the casserole, let them brown well on all sides, add more oil if needed. Remove from the pan and keep to one side.
3. Add the mushrooms to the pan and cook for a few minutes, then return the pancetta, onions, garlic and chicken thighs. Turn up the heat, pour in the wine and bring quickly to the boil and then reduce to a simmer. Cook gently for 25 minutes, turning the chicken from time to time.
4. Lift out the chicken from the pan and pour in the cream. Continue to cook until the cream starts to thicken slightly. Season with salt and black pepper and stir in the parsley.
5. Return the chicken to the pan and reheat before serving.

Menu Two

Chorizo and Chilli Chicken (Serves 4)

This is a recipe which my friend introduced me to, it’s her ‘old classic’ family recipe, one which is good enough to be served to both family and friends; it’s been known to turn up on her ‘dinner-party table’…

8 chicken thighs

1 tablespoon olive oil

225g chorizo, sliced (about thickness of a pound coin)

400g tinned tomatoes

2 tablespoons tomato paste

½ teaspoon chilli flakes

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

2 red onions, cut into wedges

2 red peppers, roughly diced

2 handfuls whole black olives

2 tablespoons parsley, chopped

Sea salt and black pepper

1. Season the chicken thighs with salt and pepper. Heat the olive oil in a frying pan and fry the chicken, skin-side down until browned, then turn over and quickly brown the underside. Remove from the pan and place in a roasting tin.
2. Add the chorizo slices to the frying pan, fry for about 5 minutes before adding the tinned tomatoes along with the tomato paste, chilli flakes, Worcestershire sauce and onion wedges. Season with salt and pepper, stir and bring to the boil.
3. Pour over the chicken and gently mix, making sure that the chicken thighs are left skin-side up. Bake in a preheated oven, 200’c fan, for 15 minutes.
4. Remove from the oven and gently stir through the diced red peppers and black olives, then return to the oven for a further 15 minutes.
5. Finally, stir through the parsley before serving.

Menu Three

Spiced Sausage Ragu with Rigatoni (Serves 4)

You can never have enough sausage ragu recipes, this variation has a subtle spicy kick. It’s great on a cold winters evening!

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, finely chopped

2 large cloves garlic, crushed

¼ teaspoon chilli flakes (or more to taste)

2 rosemary sprigs, leaves finely chopped

2 x 400g tins chopped tomatoes

1 tablespoon brown sugar

6 pork sausages (gluten free if required)

150ml whole milk

1 lemon, zested

350g rigatoni pasta (gluten free if required)

½ bunch parsley, chopped

Sea salt and black pepper

Grated parmesan to serve

1. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a pan over a medium heat. Fry the onion with a pinch of salt for about 8 minutes. Add the garlic, chilli and rosemary, then cook for a further minute. Add the tomatoes and sugar and simmer for 20 minutes.
2. Meanwhile remove the casings from the sausages and mash up the meat. Heat the remaining oil in a frying pan and fry the sausage meat, breaking it up with a wooden spoon, for about 8 minutes until browned.
3. Add the sausage to the sauce together with the lemon zest and milk, and season with salt and pepper. Simmer for 5 minutes.
4. Meanwhile cook the pasta until al dente, according to the packet instructions.
5. Toss the drained pasta through the sauce. Scatter over the parsley and serve sprinkled with parmesan.

Menu Four

Macaroni Cheese with Cherry Tomatoes (Serves 4)

I remember my mum making macaroni cheese back in the seventies, I wasn’t keen on it in those days as according to my fussy, childish taste buds it was too cheesy – perhaps if my mum had followed this recipe with cherry tomatoes I would have been asking for seconds (although in her defence, cherry tomatoes weren’t a thing you could easily find on the shelves of a seventies grocery shop!). Not only is this a fabulous version of macaroni cheese due to the sweet addition of roasted tomatoes but it’s hassle-free; instead of making a cheese sauce from scratch it calls for mascarpone cheese simply combined with Emmental cheese – so easy!…

250g cherry tomatoes

1 tablespoon olive oil

350g macaroni (gluten free if required)

250g mascarpone cheese

300g Emmental cheese, coarsely grated

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

Sea salt and black pepper

1. Place the cherry tomatoes in a 2 litre ovenproof dish. Drizzle over the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast in a preheated oven, 200’c fan, for 15 minutes until the tomatoes have softened and the skins have slightly split.
2. Meanwhile cook the macaroni until al dente, according to the packet instructions.
3. In a bowl, combine the mascarpone, emmental and mustard, stirring until evenly blended.
4. Drain the pasta and stir in the cheese mixture, then gently fold in the tomatoes and season with salt and pepper. Tip the mixture into the ovenproof dish used for the tomatoes. Bake in the preheated oven, 200’c fan, for 25-30 minutes until golden brown and bubbling. Allow to stand for a few minutes before serving.

Cranberry Kringle Cocktail (Serves 1)

Whilst searching the internet for the perfect Christmas cocktail (on your behalf, of course!) I came across this ‘Cranberry Kringle Cocktail’. Yes, I know, it’s a terrible name, but believe me it goes down a treat, you might want to make a jug if you’ve got a crowd around!…

90ml cranberry juice

30ml Peach schnapps

30ml vodka

A handful of ice

1. Simply put all the ingredients in a cocktail shaker, shake for 15 seconds until cold. Strain into a chilled glass.

Merry Christmas and a Very Happy New Year!

Menu Mistress will be taking a break next week but will be back

Wednesday 4th January.

Spiced Venison Stew (Serve 6)

I just had to share this recipe again! I first shared it in January of this year, so relatively recently, but it’s so good that now we’re in the ‘season of stews’ I felt it deserved another mention – don’t overlook this recipe! It’s the perfect choice when entertaining for a crowd over the Christmas season. The recipe uses the idea of mulled wine and its spices to create a wonderfully warming stew which has a subtle spicy ‘kick’. It’s from Rosie Birkett’s cookbook, ‘The Joyful Cook’, which I thoroughly recommend! You could substitute the venison for beef shin, however venison’s rich flavour works particularly well with the robust spices in this stew. The amount of chilli paste depends on the make of paste you use and your taste buds, it is a matter of trial and error. I use ‘Gran Luchito’ chipotle chilli paste which can be found in supermarkets or online, I start with about ½ tablespoon and add more towards the end of cooking depending on my mood.

1kg venison shoulder cut into 2-3cm chunks (or you could use beef shin)

4 tablespoons plain flour (gluten-free if required)

1½ tablespoons olive oil

100g smoked pancetta lardons

1 onion, finely chopped

2 celery sticks, strings removed and sticks finely chopped

1 large carrot, finely chopped

1 bay leaf

2 sprigs of thyme

2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, chopped, plus extra to garnish

1 cinnamon stick

Pinch cumin seeds

1 star anise

½ -1 tablespoon chilli paste (see note above)

1 tablespoon tomato purée

400ml spicy red wine (Malbec or similar)

½ orange, juiced and zest grated

250ml beef stock

Sea salt and black pepper

For the pink pickled onions:

1 small red onion, thinly sliced

3 black peppercorns

1 clove

1 teaspoon caster sugar

½ teaspoon salt

4 tablespoons cider vinegar

1. Dry the chunks of venison well with kitchen roll, then season the flour with salt and pepper and roll the meat in it.
2. Heat the oil in a large casserole dish over a medium-high heat, add the pancetta and fry for 4-5minutes, until they are lightly coloured and starting to caramelise. Transfer to a plate with a slotted spoon and set aside. Now, working in batches brown the venison in the fat for a few minutes on each side. Add the brown meat to the pancetta.
3. Add the vegetables, bay leaf, herbs, spices and chilli paste to the casserole dish. Stir well and cook over a low-medium heat for 10-15 minutes, adding a little extra oil if needed. Now stir in the tomato purée and cook for a minute then pour over the red wine and orange juice and add the zest, turn up the heat, stirring well to release any bits stuck to the bottom.
4. Return the venison and pancetta to the casserole. Add the beef stock and bring to the boil. Cover with a lid and place in a preheated oven, 180’c fan, for 1½-2 hours, until the venison is meltingly tender and the sauce thick and rich. Taste for seasoning and adjust accordingly, adding more chilli paste if you like.
5. Meanwhile make the pink pickled onions. Place the onion slices in a heatproof bowl, cover with boiling water and leave for 1 minute. Drain off the water, then add the spices, sugar, salt and cider vinegar to the bowl and stir to combine. When you are ready to serve, drain on some kitchen paper to get rid of the brine.
6. Serve the venison topped with the pink pickled onions and some chopped parsley. This is great with my ‘Favourite Mashed Potato’ (recipe here).

Florentine Meringue Cake (Serves 6-8)

This is a real show-stopping dessert and one which is perfect for the Christmas season. It’s my interpretation of a recipe I found in Skye McAlpine’s cookbook ‘A Table for Friends’ which layers meringue with a marron glacé-cream filling. I found that this version was overly sweet, plus it seemed a rather extravagant use of the expensive candied ‘marrons’; McAlpine does suggest similar additions such as candied peel, so I started playing around with different cream-filling combinations. I can proudly say I’ve come up with the ultimate meringue cake one which, as its name suggests, is inspired by a favourite of mine, florentines! Despite being incredibly easy to make it looks incredibly impressive on the dinner table; topped with redcurrants frosted with sugar it makes the perfect winter dessert – a fantastic centrepiece for a Christmas celebration!…

300g caster sugar

6 egg whites

2 teaspoons cornflour

1 teaspoon white wine vinegar

4 tablespoons icing sugar

700ml double cream

200g plain dark chocolate, roughly chopped

40g candied peel, chopped

20-30g soft caramel sweets (I use Werther’s Soft Caramels), roughly chopped

30g pistachio nuts, roughly chopped

To decorate:

Redcurrant sprigs

3 tablespoons caster sugar

*You will need three baking trays and grease-proof paper.

1. On three separate pieces of grease-proof paper draw a circle roughly 23cm in diameter (you could trace around a cake tin). Place each piece of paper on separate baking trays and set aside.
2. Whisk the egg whites until they form soft peaks, then gradually whisk in the caster sugar. Once the egg whites are stiff and glossy gently fold in the cornflour and vinegar. Divide the meringue evenly between the baking trays, using the circles as a guide.
3. Bake in a preheated oven, 130’c fan, for 1 hour, then switch off the oven and leave the meringues there to harden for another hour.
4. Meanwhile, prepare the frosted redcurrants (if using to decorate). Simply dip the redcurrant sprigs in water, then gently roll in the caster sugar and set aside to dry out.
5. When you are ready to serve the meringue cake, sift the icing sugar into the cream and whip until firm but still silky.
6. Set one of the meringue discs on a serving plate and top with one-third of the cream and sprinkle over a third of the chopped plain chocolate, candied peel, caramel and pistachios. Top with the second meringue disc and repeat. Finally, top with the third meringue, followed by the remaining cream, chocolate, candied peel, caramel and pistachios.
7. Finally, if using, decorate the top of the cake with the frosted sprigs of redcurrants.
8. Chill in the fridge until ready to serve, it will keep for up to 12 hours.