April 2022
Last week I enjoyed a 24-hour, whistle-stop tour of Paris. Living in London, with Eurostar on my doorstep, this quick trip is very doable. Not only did I enjoy the sights and the spectacular spring sunshine (we really lucked out on the weather!), but savoured three fantastic restaurants which I am keen to recommend…
Straight from the train, having left our bags at our hotel, my sister, Michelle, and I kicked off our trip with lunch at Benoit…
Benoit is a favourite restaurant of mine, I have eaten here several times and it has never let me down. Walking into this restaurant there is no denying that you are in Paris – it’s an old school bistro with a quintessentially French interior; brass rails, red velvet banquettes and wood-panelled walls, and of course, beautifully pressed white linen table cloths. Benoit first opened in 1912 and it remained in the same family until 2005 when renowned chef and restauranteur, Alain Ducasse, became its new proprietor. Respecting its history, Ducasse has ensured that Benoit remains a traditional bistrot, albeit now with a Michelin star. The three-course set menu is a steal at 42 euros, otherwise, you can choose à la carte. Dishes range from classics such as Duck Ballotine, Escargots, Lamb Navarin, Cassoulet and Black Pudding.
Our lunch started with a glass of champagne (always a good decision when you’ve just arrived off an early morning Eurostar run!), we were then presented with the complimentary gougéres (cheese puffs), it’s worth visiting the restaurant just for these, plus bread and butter – the type you can only get in France! Moving on we enjoyed a ‘Pea Velouté’, followed by ‘Duck Parmentier with Braised Baby Gem Lettuce’ – this was superb; the rich, duck confit filling was topped by the creamiest purée of potato. Finally, there were desserts, a rich, creamy ‘Chocolate Mousse’ – my photo doesn’t do this justice, it was incredibly good! And an ‘Armagnac Savarin’, which is not to be missed – Armagnac is generously poured over slices of sponge and served with the lightest whipped cream! To end this wonderful lunch we were served freshly baked madeleines and petit fours, all included in the set price – it’s these little extras which take the whole experience at Benoit to a higher level. What a fantastic start this meal was to our trip both the service and food were impeccable, it would be difficult to beat…
After ambling around the Marais, and a quick freshen-up at our hotel, it was time for a cocktail overlooking the Place de Vosges (at Café Hugo) before dinner at nearby ‘Robert & Louise’…
Robert & Louise, 3rd Arrondissement
After our rich and luxurious lunch, I wanted a restaurant which was a little more low-key, and when I entered Robert & Louise, I knew I’d made the right choice. The interior has a cosy atmosphere with a ‘home-style’ vibe and super friendly staff. Opened in 1958 by Robert and Louise it is now run by their daughter, Pascale and her partner. The menu offers traditional, simple French cuisine which is mostly cooked over an open fireplace at the back of the restaurant. As we were shown our table, we walked past the aforementioned fireplace and I happened to notice steaks being grilled and escargots being cooked. I didn’t need to see the menu – I was ready to order!… The small, almost sweet escargots which I had for my first course were drowned in herby garlic butter, they were delicious. For my main course, I opted for the entrecôte steak, it was cooked to perfection and served with sautéed potatoes and a salad, with a pot of Dijon mustard on the side – it was a simple dish, faultlessly executed. Finally, dessert, a traditional ‘Crème Brulée’, again simplicity was the key to its success – the balance of cream and vanilla flavouring was a perfect end to a delightful meal.
Walking back to our hotel, on this balmy Spring evening we couldn’t resist a digestif, so found ourselves back again at Café Hugo, watching Paris wind down for the night. When here for just 24 hours you really do have to fill every minute, but as our beds were calling us we only managed one drink! The following day we were up early, taking a walk along the Seine, we took a quick look at the incredible architecture of the Louvre, before crossing over to the 6th arrondissement, for a light breakfast at La Palette before swooning over the Impressionist collection at the Musée d’Orsay. Then of course it was time for lunch… Not far from the Musée d’Orsay is Au Petit Tonneau…
Au Petit Tonneau, 5th Arrondissement
Au Petit Tonneau is a small neighbourhood restaurant not too far from the Eiffel Tower. Its simple, modern interior reflects the classic, clean flavours of its traditional menu. There is a set lunch menu at 27/35 euros or an à la carte menu. Unsurprisingly, we were feeling quite full having overindulged since arriving in Paris, so we opted for ‘Guinea Fowl & Pea Purée’, it was simply presented, but beautifully cooked – both succulent and flavoursome. Of course, there should always be space for dessert, and how could I resist their homemade ‘Nougat Ice cream’, it was incredibly good, flavoured with dried fruit, a touch of ginger and a fresh red fruit sauce. I can honestly say that it was the perfect end to our 24-hour jaunt in Paris. Now we just needed a final ‘Parisian’ stroll to lighten our stomachs before getting Eurostar home to London!…
Menu Mistress 