June 2024

For me, travelling means discovering new food and restaurants; very often it’s the flavours of a city that I remember rather than its sights. Just recently my taste buds have been very spoilt with a few trips abroad. Armed with lists of restaurants I’ve been eating my way through Puglia (mostly Lecce), then shortly after I visited Lisbon and finally just last week Porto. It’s been a mixed bag but nevertheless inspiring; I chose not to try the horse meat which appeared on more than one menu in Lecce – apparently it’s very popular in this region –  but loved the ‘Café Leccese’ (iced coffee made with almond milk)! Whilst in Italy I had the opportunity to try my hand at making fresh orecchiette – it was lots of fun but something which I don’t think I’d have the time or patience to do at home! One of the best things I returned home with was a recipe for the lightest lemon and white chocolate cake which the chef of a local trattoria very kindly shared with me (I will of course be sharing this with you in the future!). Similarly, Lisbon was a fantastic culinary adventure (see my restaurant reviews here), as was Porto with of course its port wine!..

Back in the reality of my kitchen, and thinking about Menu Mistress, I’ve been ‘travelling’ through my cookbooks. I’ve decided to share a mixed bag of recipes with you for June, all of which will get you in the mood for some balmy summer days (here’s hoping!). There’s a French inspired chicken dish, a Southern Indian inspired fish curry and an Italian seafood pasta which would no doubt be at home on the shores of Puglia!.. Menu One is ‘St Tropez Chicken’. It’s a celebration of summer herbs – the taste of the South of France. So, even if the sun isn’t shining you at least have the flavour of it! I like to serve it with ‘Brutto’s Green Salad’ and ‘Italian-Style Small Roast Potatoes’; I’m also sharing both of these recipes. Admittedly Menu Two, ‘Smoked Haddock Curry with Coconut and Sweet Potato’, requires some prep – there is quite a lot of chopping and the ingredient list is long. However, it pays off as the result is wonderful and once the prep is done it’s super quick to cook; it’s a great recipe for the weekend! In comparison Menu Three, ‘Pasta with Clams & Prawns’, is a super quick recipe from the ‘River Café Cook Book Easy’… supper will be on the table in fifteen minutes!..

Menu One

St Tropez Chicken (Serves 4-6)

This is a recipe from one of Nigella Lawson’s older cookbooks, ‘Feast’. It’s a celebration of  summer herbs – the taste of the South of France. So, even if the sun isn’t shining you at least have the flavour of it!.. It’s an easy recipe, just remember to marinate it the day before cooking. Simply serve with a good, green salad and some Italian-style roasted potatoes (see the recipes below – my new favourites!).

1 large chicken, jointed into 10 pieces

Juice of 1 lemon

60ml olive oil

60g honey

150ml rose wine

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 tablespoon Herbes de Provence

2 teaspoons dried lavender

  1. Put the jointed chicken into a large freezer bag. Combine the lemon juice, oil, honey, wine, crushed garlic and herbs, stirring to dissolve the honey. Pour this mixture into the bag, seal and refrigerate overnight or for up to two days.
  2. Place the chicken, skin-side up, into a roasting tin with its marinade, and cover with foil. Cook in a preheated oven, 170’c fan, for two hours, then remove the foil and turn up the heat to 200’c. Cook for another 15 to 25 minutes or until the skin of the chicken is bronzed. Keep an eye on it, though, as the honey can burn.
  3. Remove the chicken from the tin and place on a warmed plate. Spoon off any excess fat from the cooking juices then pour into a small saucepan and place over a medium heat, stirring to amalgamate the juices, adding a little water if needed, to make a glossy, golden-brown gravy.

‘Brutto’ Green Salad (Serves 4)

This salad, particularly the dressing, is my new favourite! It’s from the cookbook ‘Brutto’.

1 large head of romaine lettuce

2 celery stalks

1 large cucumber

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons dried tarragon

Flaky sea salt

Black pepper

Caster sugar

  1. Remove the base from the lettuce and discard, roughly shred the leaves into bitsize pieces. Wash thoroughly and use a salad spinner to dry them. Place in a large salad bowl.
  2. Peel the celery (gently pull the ‘strings’ from the base up the length of the stalk), then slice finely. Peel the cucumber, cut in half lengthways and remove the seeds and discard, then slice finely. Add both the celery and cucumber to the lettuce in the bowl.
  3. Put the dressing ingredients (olive oil, vinegar, mustard, tarragon) in a jam jar with a tight fitting lid. Add a good pinch of salt and a good twist of black pepper and a couple of pinches of caster sugar. Shake vigorously until combined and emulsified.
  4. Use the dressing to dress the salad to you taste.

Italian-Style Small Roasted Potatoes (Serves 4)

This is another recipe from the cookbook ‘Brutto’. A classic recipe for Italian-style roasted potatoes; they are cut much smaller than our traditional UK roast potatoes, thus are slightly crunchier. You can use either floury potatoes or new potatoes for a smoother, nuttier flavour – those in the photo above are made with floury potatoes.

*I’ve found that the cooking time on these potatoes can vary; I often cook them for a total of 1 hour rather than the recipe’s suggested total of 1 hour 10 -15 minutes, adding the remaining rosemary in the final 10 minutes of cooking.

500g floury potatoes (Maris Piper, King Edward etc) or new potatoes

Extra virgin olive oil

Sunflower oil

4 cloves of garlic, unpeeled

Flaky sea salt

A large handful rosemary leaves

  1. Peel and cut the potatoes into small triangular pieces (if using new potatoes, don’t peel them, simply cut into pieces).
  2. Add the potatoes to a pan of salted, boiling water and cook for 5-6 minutes until they are still firm but can be pierced with the tip of a sharp knife. Drain.
  3. Pour a few glugs of each oil into a large roasting tin and place in a preheated oven, 190’c fan, for 3-4 minutes. Place the flat of a blade of a knife on each of the unpeeled garlic cloves and hit firmly with your palm to smash them. Add the drained potatoes, the smashed garlic cloves, a good pinch of salt and half the rosemary to the hot oil, turning the potatoes to coat them. Return to the oven.
  4. After 30 minutes remove and turn the potatoes again. Return to the oven for a further 20-30 minutes, then once again turn them and this time add the remaining rosemary (if using new potatoes you can slightly squash some of them with a spatula). Continue to roast for a further 10-15 minutes – maybe a little more or less – until golden and crisp.
  5. Serve in a large bowl sprinkled with flaky sea salt.

Menu Two

Smoked Haddock Curry with Coconut & Sweet Potato (Serves 3-4)

Admittedly this curry requires some prep – there is quite a lot of chopping and yes, the ingredient list is long. However, it pays off as the result is wonderful and once the prep is done it’s super quick to cook; it’s a great recipe for the weekend! It’s a wonderfully fragrant dish, the smoked haddock complements the flavours creating a tasty yet light curry. It’s important to get fresh lime leaves as they’ll not only make all the difference to the dish but fill your kitchen with their wonderful citrus aroma. I use fresh turmeric (use gloves as it seriously stains) but apparently you can use ground turmeric, mixed with a little water to form a paste. Serve with flatbreads (recipe below) or rice.

1 tablespoon coconut oil

1 large onion, chopped

3 cloves garlic, chopped

Thumb-sized piece of fresh ginger, peeled and chopped

1 birds eye red chilli, finely chopped

Bunch of coriander, stalks chopped and leaves reserved for garnish

1 teaspoon coriander seeds, crushed

Thumb-sized piece of fresh turmeric, peeled and grated (or use 2 teaspoon turmeric powder mixed to a paste with a little water – see note above)

4 lime leaves

1 sweet potato, peeled and chopped into 1cm cubes

2 teaspoons fish sauce

250ml white wine

1 x 400ml tine coconut milk

500g skinless smoked haddock fillet, cut into large chunks

1 lime, zest and juice

Handful of spinach

Salt and pepper

To Serve:

Yogurt

Sliced chilli

Lime wedges

Flat breads or rice

  1. Heat the coconut oil in a large pan, then add the onion and garlic and sauté for a few minutes over a medium heat. Next add the ginger, chilli, coriander stalks, coriander seeds, turmeric and lime leaves and continue to sauté for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.
  2. Add the sweet potato, fish sauce, white wine and coconut milk and bring to a simmer. Simmer for 12-15 minutes until the sweet potato is soft.
  3. Add the haddock to the pan, stir carefully and cook for 4-5 minutes, then add the lime zest and juice, spinach and season.
  4. Divide between warmed bowls, scatter over the coriander leaves and serve the with yogurt, sliced chilli, lime wedges and flatbreads (recipe below) or rice.

‘Staple Side Dish’ – Speedy Flatbreads (with a Gluten-Free option) (Serves 4)

This is a fantastic recipe – a real revelation. These flatbreads are great as a side to a curry, but are equally good as a snack for lunch! They are super easy to make – the dough just needs 15 minutes to rest before cooking, so bear this in mind.

120g plain flour (gluten-free if required – I use Doves)

Pinch of salt

Glug of olive oil

120ml water (approx)

  1. Place the flour and salt in a bowl, add a glug of olive oil and then, stirring gradually enough water to form a dough (you probably won’t use all the water).
  2. Rest the dough for 15 minutes.
  3. Divide the dough into 4 equal pieces, roll into small balls and then gently roll each ball out into thin flatbreads.
  4. Heat a frying pan over a high heat, sprinkle with salt and a drizzle of olive oil. Place each flatbread in the hot pan, one at a time, and cook for 1-2 minutes on each side until slightly charred.

Menu Three

Pasta with Clams & Prawns (Serves 4)

This is a super quick recipe from the ‘River Café Cook Book Easy’. It makes a great supper!

320g Penne or Fusilli

1kg clams

250g peeled prawns

3 garlic cloves ,finely chopped

1 fresh red chilli, chopped

100g rocket leaves, roughly chopped

150g white wine

Extra virgin olive oil

  1. Firstly, rinse the clams in cold water, making sure that they are all closed – tap on those that are open and discard them if they do not close, and discard those with cracked or damaged shells.
  2. In a large thick-bottomed pan with a lid heat 3 tablespoons olive oil and add the garlic, cook until soft, then add the clams and wine. Cover and cook until the clams have opened, about 2 minutes. Discard any that remain closed.
  3. Add the prawns, rocket and chilli and cover again to wilt the rocket. Keep warm.
  4. Meanwhile cook the pasta until al dente according to the packet instructions. Drain and add to the clams. Heat together for a minute, season and drizzle with olive oil.

Cocktail of the Month

‘Final Say’ Cocktail (Serves 1)

This cocktail with its floral flavours is exactly what’s needed to take us through the spring and into the summer. Made with gin it has a light finish; the ‘crème de violette’ creates a wonderful summery violet shade and the touch of lime subtly cuts the sweetness of the maraschino liqueur. It’s my new favourite!..

25ml gin

25ml maraschino liqueur

25ml créme de violette

25ml freshly squeezed lime juice

A handful of ice

Lime wheel and maraschino cherry to garnish

  1. Add all ingredients to a cocktail shaker with the ice. Shake vigorously for 10 seconds and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.
  2. Garnish with a lime wheel and a maraschino cherry.

‘Blast From the Past’ Recipe

Tagliata Steak with a Herb Dressing (Serves 4)

Just recently my sister came to stay and I wanted something quick yet ‘special’ to serve her… I couldn’t go wrong with this recipe! So, I thought it deserved to be this months ‘Blast From the Past’ recipe – I originally shared it back in the summer of 2020…

The Italian word ‘tagliata’ means sliced and this is exactly what ‘Tagliata’ is – sliced steak. Often in Italy they use the T-bone cut for this recipe, so that you get both the fillet and sirloin. However I find that it is easier and quicker to cook sirloin steaks at home, and to slice these before serving. The dressing is one which I have taken from Nina Parker’s ‘Nina’s St Tropez’ cookbook, it is quite light so does not overpower the steak. I would serve this dish with baby roast potatoes or the oven chips (recipes here) and a salad of your choice dressed with a tarragon vinaigrette.

3-4 sirloin steaks (depending on how hungry you are)

Olive oil

Sea salt and black pepper

Herb Dressing

1 anchovy fillet, chopped

60ml olive oil

Large bunch of tarragon, chopped

Handful parsley, chopped

Juice of ½ lemon

½ teaspoon sugar

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

20g unsalted butter

1 clove garlic, chopped

Sea salt and black pepper

  1. Remove steaks from fridge to bring to room temperature
  2. Meanwhile make the sauce – put the chopped anchovy in a bowl with all but 1 tablespoon of the oil, add the herbs, lemon juice, sugar and vinegar. Then, in a small saucepan heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil with the butter, when hot add the garlic, cook for a moment before adding the mixture to the bowl with the herbs. Give everything a good stir and season with salt and pepper. Cover and keep warm whilst you deal with the steaks.
  3. Lightly brush the steaks with olive oil and sprinkle generously with salt and a little black pepper.
  4. Heat a frying pan until very hot. Place the steaks in the pan and cook for about 1½ minutes of each side for rare or a little longer depending on your taste. I also like to turn the steaks on their ‘fat’ edge, for 30 seconds to crisp it up.
  5. Remove the steaks to a plate to rest for about 10 minutes in a warm place.
  6. Pour the juices which will have seeped from the resting steaks into the bowl with the dressing. Slice each steak.
  7. Serve the slices on a large plate with a little of the dressing sprinkled over and a generous pinch of salt. Bring to the table so that everyone can help themselves, with the remaining dressing in a bowl.

Tuesday Treat

Rhubarb Almond Pudding

I adore the tart flavour of rhubarb, so much so that as soon as I see it in the shops – either the forced variety which is available at the beginning of the year or the field grown from April to September – I’m keen to find a recipe to enjoy it with. This is one of those recipes which fits the bill perfectly. It’s simple and easy to throw together, even on a weekday evening, and gives instant pleasure. It’s not a particularly refined dessert; it’s quite a heavy, almost ‘stodgy’ pudding but the wonderful flavour of the rhubarb makes it an all-round pleaser. The recipe is from Donna Hay’s cookbook, ‘One Pan Perfect’ – and it absolutely is!

4 eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 teaspoon rosewater

360ml buttermilk

1 tablespoon finely grated orange rind

300g ground almonds

2 tablespoons cornflour

165g unrefined caster sugar, plus extra

3 – 5 stalks rhubarb (depending on the size), halved and trimmed to fit the dish

1 tablespoon pure maple syrup

  1. Place the eggs, vanilla, rosewater, buttermilk and orange rind into a jug and whisk together.
  2. Place the ground almonds, cornflour and sugar into a bowl and stir. Then add the buttermilk mixture and mix to combine.
  3. Pour the mixture into a deep 25cm round baking dish (capacity 1.5 litres). Top with the rhubarb then brush well with the maple syrup and sprinkle with a little extra sugar.
  4. Bake in a preheated oven, 180’c fan, for 40 minutes or until firm and the rhubarb is soft. Serve with double cream or fresh custard!

May 2024

I’ve read that May is one of the world’s favourite months. It doesn’t surprise me as it seems to be a month when things feel more alive than ever – with lots of ‘new growth’ around us and the warmer weather, it often feels like anything is possible (yes, perhaps you could even find time to cook that cake that’s been on your list for ages!…). As if in anticipation of these new beginnings I’ve been adding some new cookbooks to my collection – yes I know, any excuse! This month’s recipes have been tried and tested from three of my newest cookbooks. All three cookbooks were published only last autumn and are by cookery writers who were completely new to me. I’m pleased to say that, although this month I’m only sharing one recipe from each book, I have tried more than a few of their recipes and they’ve all been a success so I’m sure I’ll be sharing more from their pages; they are books which have definitely enhanced my cookbook collection!

Menu One is ‘Tarragon Roast Chicken’ by Julius Roberts. At first, when I heard about Julius Roberts I thought he was just an ‘Instagram’ success story due to his ‘young’ good looks. However, I was just being a cynical ‘old’ woman as it turns out that he knows a thing or two about cooking having worked in the kitchens of a favourite restaurant of mine, Noble Rot (see my reviews here). Having discovered this, naturally, I bought his book! The book is a joy, his enthusiasm for food jumps off the pages whilst the recipes which I’ve tried so far are keepers. Menu Two, ‘Sichuan Chicken with Peanuts and Spring Onion’, is from Claire Thomson’s cookbook, ‘One Pan Chicken’. Among all the chicken recipes this one caught my eye as it’s the authentic recipe which Thomson’s Sichuanese stepmother gave her. I figured it would be a good one and was right! Finally, Menu Two is ‘Penne alla Vodka’, from the late Russell Norman’s cookbook Brutto. The cookbook is named after his restaurant which is in Shoreditch, it’s been on my list of restaurants to review for some time now but in the meantime, I thought I’d invest in the book. Again it’s a beautiful book, however, I feel sadness when I flick through it as Norman unexpectedly died shortly after it was published. How lucky we are that he left this wonderful book as part of his legacy.

Hopefully, these May recipes will inspire you to cook something new this month!… Don’t forget to pop by next week for my ‘Tuesday Treat’!

Menu One

Tarragon Roast Chicken (Serves 4)

Tarragon is one of my favourite herbs, I love the way it’s subtle aniseed flavours lift a dish. Chicken with tarragon is a classic match, hence I’ve already shared a few recipes on Menu Mistress (here!) which celebrate this combination. Each recipe is different and has its own values. This ‘Tarragon Roast’ is a new favourite of mine which I found in the cookbook ‘The Farm Table’ by Julius Roberts. In this recipe the chicken is spatchcocked and cooked with a tarragon, cream and wine sauce. It’s a simple dish but one that is full of flavour. For an extra shot of tarragon serve with a crispy green salad with ‘tarragon dressing’ (recipe here!).

If you get your chicken from your butcher, ask him to spatchcock it for you, alternatively it is very easy to do yourself…

How to Spatchcock a Chicken:

On the backside of the chicken, using a pair of strong kitchen scissors, cut along either side of the back bone to remove it, then flip the chicken over and press down very firmly on its breast bones, it will give a satisfying crack as it flattens! Some people like to insert skewers to help keep the chicken flat during cooking but in my experience they make no difference, so I prefer not to use them as they make it more difficult to carve the bird.

Click here to watch the video on me spatchcocking a chicken on my Instagram Page!

1 chicken, spatchcocked

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 whole head of garlic, cloves unpeeled

250ml double cream

20g bunch of fresh tarragon, leaves removed and roughly chopped

1 heaped tablespoon Dijon mustard

A glass of dry white wine

Sea salt and black pepper

  1. Lay the chicken in a large, high-sided roasting tray. Season generously with salt and pepper on both sides, and drizzle the skin with olive oil, working it into the nooks and crannies. Place the unpeeled cloves of garlic under the chicken, then roast in a preheated oven, 220’c fan for 20-30 minutes until the skin begins to turn golden brown.
  2. Meanwhile, mix the cream, tarragon and mustard in a bowl and season well with salt and pepper.
  3. After 20-30 minutes, turn the oven down to 140’c fan, take the chicken out of the oven and pour a generous glass of white wine into the tray (not over the chicken!). Then pour the cream mixture all over the chicken and place back in the oven for 30-40 minutes until it’s cooked through.
  4. Remove from the oven and allow to rest for 10-15 minutes, loosely covered with foil. Carve straight from the tin, serving with lots of the cream sauce.

Menu Two

Sichuan Chicken with Peanuts and Spring Onion (Serves 4)

This recipe is from Claire Thomson’s cookbook, ‘One Pan Chicken’. Amongst all the recipes for chicken this one caught my eye as it’s the authentic recipe which Thomson’s Sichuanese stepmother gave her. I figured it would be a good one and was right!..

700g boneless, skinless chicken thigh, diced

2 teaspoons ground Sichuan pepper

2 tablespoons cornflour

2 tablespoons light soy sauce (gluten free if required)

2 teaspoons Shaoxing wine or dry sherry

2 tablespoons caster sugar

2 tablespoons black rice vinegar

2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

4 star anise

2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds

4 tablespoons sunflower or vegetable oil

8-12 small dried chillies, stem and seeds discarded, then roughly chopped

1 tablespoon of grated fresh ginger

4 garlic cloves, finely sliced

1 bunch of spring onions, trimmed and cut into similar lengths as the diced chicken

80g roasted peanuts, roughly crushed

Sea salt

  1. Season the chicken with a big pinch of salt and the Sichuan pepper, then dust with half the cornflour, to coat. Next, add 1 tablespoon of the soy sauce and all the Shaoxing wine (or sherry) and mix well.
  2. In a bowl, mix together the sugar, vinegar and sesame oil, along with 2 tablespoons of water, the star anise, sesame seeds and the remaining soy sauce and cornflour. Put to oneside.
  3. Heat the oil in a wok or large frying pan over a high heat. Add the dried chillies and stir-fry for a few minutes, then add the chicken and cook for a few more minutes. Add the ginger, garlic and spring onions and cook for 5-7 minutes, until the chicken is just cooked through.
  4. Mix through the vinegar mixture, stir-frying over a high heat for a couple of minutes to fully coat and cook the chicken.
  5. Remove from the heat and scatter with the crushed peanuts to serve.

Menu Three

Penne Alla Vodka (Serves 4)

I must admit that until I tried this recipe I was a bit sceptical about the idea of vodka in an Italian tomato sauce. I had always assumed it was an American addition, so not authentic. However, when recently I saw the recipe in the Italian cookbook, Brutto by Russell Norman, I was convinced of its authenticity; Norman was an Italophile and the proprietor of the popular London Italian restaurants, Polpo and latterly, Brutto. Although the addition of the vodka may seem gimmicky, it does in fact add a different dimension to a simple tomato sauce – it helps to balance out the flavours of the tomatoes and cream enabling this creamy sauce to be rich yet light. It’s a winning recipe!

2 x 400g tins of plum tomatoes, drained

1 large onion, finely diced

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

½ teaspoon chilli flakes

1 teaspoon dried oregano

200ml vodka

320- 400g penne pasta (gluten free if required)

4 tablespoons double cream

2 teaspoons caster sugar

100g Parmesan, grated

Olive oil

Sea salt

  1. Place a couple of tablespoons of olive oil in a ovenproof saucepan and over a medium heat sauté the onion with a pinch of salt for 10-12 minutes until glossy and translucent, being careful not to let it brown.
  2. Add the garlic, chilli flakes and oregano and combine, stirring for a few minutes more. Pour in the vodka, increase the heat a little to bring to a very gently bubble and cook until the liquid is reduced by a third.
  3. Now add the drained tomatoes to the saucepan with a good pinch of salt and continue to boil for a few minutes.
  4. Transfer the saucepan, uncovered, to a preheated oven, 140’c fan, and bake for 30-40 minutes, until the sauce has reduced and coloured a little on the top.
  5. Remove the sauce from the oven, add the double cream, sugar and half the Parmesan. Use a stick blender to create a smooth sauce.
  6.  Meanwhile cook the penne until al dente, according to the packet instructions and drain. Immediately add to the sauce stirring until fully combined.
  7. Serve with the remaining Parmesan on the side.