October 2024

I always find it a little difficult to get back into ‘routine’ after the freedom of the summer months but this year it’s been particularly challenging. It’s all well and good enjoying ourselves but eventually we do have to face reality and I fear this is my problem – facing up to reality! Since April I’ve enjoyed quite a few trips and even managed to avoid a lot of the wet, dreary weather that the UK endured this summer. Travelling is, of course, inspiring so I returned with a few new ideas to try out in my kitchen – I’ve shared not one but two ‘Tuesday Treats’ which I found along the way (check them out here!). However, I won’t lie, getting back to the daily task of cooking our dinner has proven difficult. Searching for new recipe inspiration is always a good incentive, and so yes, that meant yet another trip to Hatchards bookshop on Piccadilly to add a couple of cookbooks to my collection. I can never buy just one, but I did manage to stop myself at two! One of those cookbooks was ‘Tom Kerridge Cooks Britain’ – I’d like to take this opportunity to thank ‘Tom’ for helping me face reality and motivating me back to my beloved kitchen!..

Naturally, this month one of the recipes that I’m sharing is from Kerridge’s aforementioned book; Menu One isLamb Loin Chops with Burnt Shallots & Peas’. It’s a deliciously simple, satisfying dish. The gravy is particularly tasty with the mint and peas and is wonderful served with a pile of creamy mashed potato – a perfect October supper! Menu Two isSweet Duck Legs, Plums & Star Anise’. I rediscovered this recipe when flicking through a couple of old cookbooks searching for that elusive ‘motivation’. It’s a fantastic recipe from Jamie Oliver’s ‘Jamie’s Dinners’. It’s one of those recipes which the whole family will love, young and old; with its subtly sweet, spiced flavours it’s the perfect recipe for October when you need some ‘zing’ to get your head around the coming winter!..

Menu One

Menu One

Lamb Loin Chops with Burnt Shallots & Peas (Serves 2-3…4?!)

This is a recipe from the cookbook ‘Tom Kerridge Cooks Britain’. It’s a deliciously simple, satisfying dish. The gravy is particularly tasty with the mint and peas and is wonderful served on a pile of creamy mashed potato. Kerridge suggests using fresh peas which when in season would be fantastic, however, I cook this with frozen peas and it’s still delicious! It seems that Kerridge likes his portions large as he states it’s a recipe that serves 2-3 people, but it would be a seriously large portion for two as I think two chops per person are enough. If you want to serve four, I would simply add two extra chops, another handful of peas and ensure that the gravy doesn’t reduce too much.

6 lamb loin chops (or 8 – see note above)

6-8 shallots, peeled and halved

3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

200ml white wine

400ml lamb stock

120g peas, fresh or defrosted if frozen (see note above)

2 sprigs of rosemary, leaves picked and finely chopped

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons mint leaves, roughly chopped

30g butter, diced

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

  1. Season the lamb chops on both sides with salt and pepper. Place a large non-stick sauté pan over a medium-high heat. When hot, add the lamb chops, fat side down first to render the fat, for 2-3 minutes. Now lay down the chops and cook for 3-4 minutes on each side until browned. Remove the chops from the pan and set aside on a plate.
  2. Add the shallot halves to the pan, cut side down and cook for 4-5 minutes until well charred on that side. Remove from the pan and set aside with the chops.
  3. Toss the garlic into the pan and cook for 2-3 minutes. Pour in the wine and simmer until reduced by half. Now pour in the stock and cook until the liquor is reduced by half again (see note above for serving four people).
  4. Return the lamb chops and the shallots to the pan and add the peas and rosemary. Simmer for a couple of minutes until the peas are cooked and the chops warmed through. Remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the wine vinegar and mint and season with salt and pepper to taste. Finally, stir through the butter to enrich the sauce.
  5. Transfer the chops, shallots, peas and sauce to warmed plates and serve at once, with creamy mashed potato (recipe below!).

Staple Side Dish –Favourite’ Mashed Potato (Serves 4)

There are numerous recipes for mashed potato, and yes, I have tried many, but this one is probably my favourite. It actually doesn’t contain any butter, which makes me feel that it could be healthy, although admittedly it does contain double cream! Don’t be put off by the garlic, you really can’t taste it, it just enhances the flavour of the potato. I must admit I ‘cheat’ when it comes to mashing, I am fortunate to have an amazing kitchen appliance, a Thermomix, this is a serious piece of kitchen kit; I can actually steam my potatoes in it and then mash them in seconds. If you don’t have a Thermomix you can either mash by hand, however,  for an easier option I would recommend doing as Delia Smith suggests in her ‘Winter Cookbook’ – whisk them with an electric hand whisk. When whisking them you do have to be careful – make sure that the potatoes are absolutely cooked, otherwise they will go gluey. Start off with the speed slow to break up the potatoes and then increase to a high speed to quickly whip them until smooth – don’t do it for too long, as again, they will go gluey, which is not good!

1kg potatoes (floury, such as Maris Piper)

100ml full-fat milk

100ml double cream

2 cloves garlic, sliced

Sea salt and black pepper

  1. Peel the potatoes and cut into even sized chunks. Steam until completely cooked through.
  2. Put the milk, cream and garlic in a small saucepan and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat.
  3. Mash the potatoes (see note above) adding the milk mixture a little at a time. Season well with salt and pepper.

Menu Two

Sweet Duck Legs, Plums & Star Anise (Serves 4)

This is one of those recipes which the whole family will love, young and old. There is very little preparation but you do need to do it well in advance to allow the duck take on the flavours of the marinade – overnight would be good! The dish is then slow-cooked; the duck meat will melt in your mouth!

4 fat legs of duck

4 tablespoons soy sauce

3 teaspoons five-spice

A handful of star anise

½ stick of cinnamon

1 tablespoon olive oil

1-2 fresh chillies, deseeded and sliced

14-16 plums, halved and destoned

2 tablespoons demerara sugar

  1. Place the duck legs in a large sandwich bag with the soy sauce, five-spice, star anise, cinnamon stick and olive oil. Give it a good mix and allow to marinate for a minimum of 2 hours but to really get the flavours going you could keep it in you fridge for up to 2 days (*see note above).
  2. When you are ready to cook, place the chillies, plums and sugar in the bottom of a high sided roasting dish or casserole pan, then pour over the marinade mixture from the bag. Mix it all together with your hands, then place the duck legs on top.
  3. Place the tray in a preheated oven, 170’c fan, for 2 to 2½ hours.
  4. Remove the star anise and cinnamon stick, then taste the sauce to see if it needs seasoning with a little more soy sauce. Serve with roast potatoes or rice; you could even shred the duck and serve with Chinese pancakes!

Cocktail of the Week

Greta Garbo Cocktail (Serves 1)

If you like the flavour of anise this is definitely one for you! It’s a take on a Daiquiri but with the delicate, fresh notes of anise and maraschino.

60ml white rum (such as Bacardi)

7.5ml Maraschino liqueur

15ml sugar syrup

30ml Lime juice

5ml Pernod aniseed liqueur

Handful of ice

A star anise to garnish

  1. Simply put all the ingredients in a cocktail shaker, shake for 15 seconds until cold. Strain into a chilled glass and garnish with a star anise.

Blast From the Past

Cod, Spring Greens & Creamy Mash (Serves 4)

September’s ‘Blast From the Past’ recipe is one that I first shared back at the beginning of 2021. It’s the type of dish which would make an easy midweek meal, yet is also special enough to serve for an ‘occasion’ dinner. The cod is served on a bed of spring greens, flavoured with pancetta and garlic, and served with a creamy sauce; admittedly, it is quite an indulgent dish, made with butter and cream, but hey, once in a while, we must live! If you are feeling virtuous, you could leave the cream and butter out of the sauce so that it is more of a broth – depending on my mood, I sometimes cook it this way, it is still very tasty! I recommend that you serve the cod on a bed of creamy mash potato – heaven! (find the recipe here).

4 skinless cod fillets

100g cubed pancetta

3 sprigs of thyme, leaves picked

1 clove garlic, chopped

400g spring greens, roughly chopped

150ml chicken stock (hot)

100ml double cream (optional – see note above)

50g butter (optional – see note above)

(To serve: mashed potato – recipe here)

  1. If serving with mashed potato – first of all make your mashed potato, and keep warm.
  2. For the greens, fry the pancetta in a large saucepan until browned and crisped. Add the thyme leaves and garlic, and stir. Now add the spring greens, then the hot stock, cream and butter (if you making the recipe without the cream/butter, just add a large knob of butter instead to bring the sauce together). Cover with a lid, allow to steam for a few minutes, shaking the pan a couple of times until cooked.
  3. Meanwhile fry the fish until just cooked through (about 3-4 minutes on each side)
  4. To serve: Place some spring greens with their sauce on a plate and, if serving with mash, place a dollop beside them, then top with a the fillet of fish.

Tuesday Treat

Shortbread Biscuits with Elderflower Buttercream

(The Best Shortbread ‘Ever’ – and it’s gluten-free!)

I first tasted this shortbread when I stayed at Nathan Outlaw’s guest house in Port Isaac (review here!). Outlaw’s is very much a family affair and Nathan’s daughter, Jessie, bakes the most wonderful afternoon tea treats for the guests. During our stay she baked these, they’re the lightest shortbread biscuits I’ve ever tasted – and they’re gluten-free! When I returned home armed with the recipe, I knew I would have to pass it on to you!.. You can of course enjoy them without the elderflower buttercream but you really should try them with it at some point as they are even more delicious! Apparently Jessie found the recipe for the shortbread in ‘Baked to Perfection’ by Katarina Cermelj whilst the buttercream was her own (inspired) addition!

Shortbread:

150g unsalted butter, softened

75g caster sugar, plus extra for sprinkling

1 teaspoon vanilla bean paste

255g gluten-free plain flour (I use Dove’s)

60g cornflour

¾ teaspoon xanthan gum

½ teaspoon salt

Elderflower Buttercream:

150g unsalted butter, softened

170g icing sugar

40g elderflower cordial

  1. In a bowl, use a wooden spoon to mix together the butter, sugar and vanilla paste until smooth.
  2. Sift in the gluten-free plain flour, cornflour, xanthan gum and salt. Mix with the spoon and then knead by hand until the dough forms a ball (don’t worry if it seems very crumbly at first as it will suddenly come together!)
  3. Compress the dough into a disc between two sheets of clingfilm and then roll out until about 1cm thick.
  4. Use a 5cm round biscuit cutter to cut out the shortbread , prick each biscuit with a fork and sprinkle with caster sugar then place on a baking tray. Any leftover dough can be re-rolled and cut, until used up.
  5. Bake in a preheated oven, 160’c fan, for 20-22 minutes until very light golden around the edges. Allow to cool on the baking sheet before transferring to a wire cooling rack.
  6. To make the elderflower buttercream simply cream together the butter, icing sugar and elderflower cordial until pale and fluffy.
  7. To serve, sandwich two shortbread biscuits together with a generous spread of buttercream – delicious!

September 2024

I had a rude awakening recently when I realised that my son was very much an adult. If you have ‘grown-up’ children you will no doubt, like me, cling to the idea that your children are always ‘children’, but one day the moment will come when you really can’t deny any longer that they are very much adults, your contemporaries. This happened to me not when Felix left home for university, nor when he started working professionally or even when he officially left home to live in his own flat. No, instead it happened recently when he cooked us dinner and I discovered that it was a recipe that I would have to share on Menu Mistress! Felix has always enjoyed cooking but in the past he had always asked me for recipe recommendations. However, on this occasion he cooked us a recipe that we had never tried, his own, independent choice that made me, ‘head chef of the family’, redundant (for that day anyway!). His gamble paid off and I discovered a great recipe which I could share with you this month!

Drum roll please for Menu One, ‘Felix’s’ ‘Pot Roast Chicken with Herby Salsa’, a recipe from Jamie Oliver’s ‘5 Ingredients Mediterranean’ cookbook. It’s fantastically simple yet incredibly easy – the sort of chicken dish you can cook on a weekday evening or make, as Felix did, for a more special occasion such as a weekend ‘family & friends get-together’. My other recipe this month is perfect for September when there is that ‘end of summer’ feeling in the air and you want dish which offers a little comfort. Menu Two is ‘Pappardelle with Mushroom Ragu’, although it’s a ragu there’s no meat in this recipe making it light, but because this mushroom sauce is a slow- cooked it’s wonderfully tasty – pure comfort.

Enjoy your September and if, like me, you’re sad to be saying goodbye to the summer, remind yourself of all the wonderful recipes that autumn will bring – roll on October!..

*Over the summer I’ve been enjoying a new, eclectic playlist and now that I’m back home in my kitchen it’s continuing to make smile with it’s upbeat vibes – you too can listen to it, just click on this link… Music to Cook to…MenuMusic Twenty-Eight!

Menu One

One Pot Chicken with Potatoes, Herby Salsa & Roasted Garlic (Serves 4)

My son, Felix, discovered this recipe. When he cooked it for me I was so impressed by its fantastic flavours that I knew straight away that it would be a recipe that I would have to share with you. Not only is it delicious but incredibly simple to cook – a one pot roast which would be easy to cook any day of the week. This recipe is by Jamie Oliver who is renowned for his simple yet tasty dishes but I think he’s excelled himself with this one!

1 x 1.5kg whole free-range chicken

1kg potatoes

1 bunch of flat-leaf parsley (30g), stalks and leaves seperated

1 bulb of garlic

40g blanched hazelnuts

Extra virgin olive oil

  1. Rub the chicken all over with olive oil, sea salt and black pepper, then brown in a large casserole pan on a high heat, removing it to a plate once golden all over (roughly 5 minutes).
  2.  Meanwhile, peel the potatoes and chop into 5cm chunks. Pour 700ml of water into the pan, then add the parsley stalks, garlic bulb (reserving 1 garlic clove for later) and the potatoes. Bring to the boil on the hob for 15 minutes, season lightly.
  3. Place the chicken on top and place in a preheated oven, 180’c fan, for 1 hour 15 minutes, or until the chicken is golden and cooked through.
  4. Meanwhile, peel and finely chop the reserved garlic clove, very finely chop the parsley leaves, and roughly chop the hazelnuts. Decant into a small serving bowl, stir in 3 tablespoons of olive oil and 3-4 tablespoons of water, and season to taste.
  5. Transfer the chicken and potatoes to a serving platter, spoon over the herby salsa and serve the garlic bulb on the side, for squeezing over.

Menu Two

Pappardelle with Mushroom Ragu (Serves 6)

There is no meat in this ragu, but the mushroom sauce is a slow- cooked so it’s wonderfully rich and tasty – pure comfort. I found this wonderful recipe in Debora Robertson’s cookbook ‘Notes From A Small Kitchen Island’.

25g dried porcini mushrooms

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 shallots, diced

1 small celery stick, about 35g, trimmed of any tough strings and finely diced

1 small carrot, about 35g, finely diced

3 fresh thyme leaves

1 bay leaf

800g chestnut mushrooms, sliced about 5mm thick

4 cloves garlic, finely chopped

250ml white wine

2 tablespoons concentrated tomato purée

1 x 400g tin of cherry tomatoes

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

½ teaspoon sugar

A good pinch of chilli flakes

A small bunch of fresh parsley, stalks removed, leaves chopped

360g dried pappardelle pasta

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Parmesan cheese, grated to serve

  1. Put the porcini into a small bowl with 500ml of just-warm water. Leave to soak for at least 30 minutes. When ready to use, use a slotted spoon to gently lift them out of the bowl and put to one side. Strain the remaining liquid through a sieve lined with kitchen paper to remove any grit, keep in a jug for later.
  2. Meanwhile, place the olive oil in a heavy-bottomed pan over a medium-low heat and sauté the shallots, celery and carrot with the thyme sprigs, bay leaf and a good pinch of salt until softened, about 10 minutes.
  3. Raise the heat and add the mushrooms, sprinkle with a teaspoon of salt. Cook them over a high heat. Once they begin to release their liquid, continue to cook, stirring often until the liquid has evaporated – about 15 minutes.
  4. Lower the heat and add the garlic and the reserved, drained porcini and stir for a minute more. Add the wine and simmer for a few minutes until the liquid is reduced to a third, then spoon in the tomato purée and give everything a stir.
  5. Add the tinned cherry tomatoes, the reserved soaking water from the porcini, the vinegar, 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, the sugar and chilli flakes. Let the ragu simmer gently, uncovered, for about 50 minutes, until the sauce is rich and glossy and thick. Fish out the bay leaf and thyme sprigs from the sauce.
  6. Finally, stir in the chopped parsley, taste and add more salt and pepper if needed.
  7. To serve, cook the pappardelle in salted, boiling water, according to the packet instructions, until al dente. Toss the pasta in the sauce. Serve immediately with the Parmesan grated over generously.