Basque Burnt Cheesecake (with or without Liquorice Sauce!)

When I was working in St Johns Wood, London, over 20 years ago, I used to visit, almost daily, the local patisserie (now sadly gone), and order a slice of their baked cheesecake. It was the here that I discovered the incredible creamy nature of a proper, baked, cheesecake. Since then I have always had a soft spot for baked cheesecake, but since becoming gluten free I have found it difficult to find those without a crumbed, wheat base. So, when a girlfriend raved about Nigella Lawson’s Basque Burnt Cheesecake, I was very pleased to discover that it was baked without a crumb base so is totally gluten free. I have now baked it on a number of occasions – it is my new addiction! It is not only delicious but incredibly easy to make, admittedly it doesn’t look as good as a traditional baked cheesecake, but as we all know, looks can be deceiving! Nigella recommends a liquorice sauce to complement it, I have included the recipe here, but unless you’re an avid liquorice lover, I actually don’t think you need it – it really is perfect on its own. However, if you do make the liquorice sauce, do also try it over vanilla ice-cream!

Nigella likes this cheesecake served at room temperature, but I must admit that I rather like it straight from the fridge, but either way it is wonderfully smooth and creamy.

A couple of notes before cooking it – make sure that the ingredients are at room temperature as this will give a smoother texture. Also, the tin should have sides which are no deeper that 6cm, as you want the cheesecake to rise up (and burn!). Finally, don’t be too fussed if the lining of the tin looks a little messy, it’s supposed to be a rough and ready ‘look’!

600g full fat cream cheese, at room temperature

175g caster sugar

3 large eggs, at room temperature

300ml sour cream, at room temperature

¼ teaspoon fine sea salt

25g cornflour

*20cm springform cake tin with sides no deeper than 6cm

1. First of all you need to line your cake tin. This is simply a matter of taking two long pieces of baking parchment with enough length to fit into the tin with an overhang of 5-7cm. Press the first length down into the tin and then take the second piece and lay it across, perpendicularly, the first piece, so that the tin is completely lined. It will look messy and creased! I find that it helps to place something heavy in the tin to keep the paper in place until you need it.
2. Using a mixer/processor, beat the cream cheese with the sugar until it is light and smooth – this should be done for quite some time – at least 3 minutes (if by chance you do mix it by hand it will need elbow grease and more time!).
3. Beat in the eggs, one at a time, incorporating each one fully before adding the next. Then add the sour cream, continuing to beat the mixture to fully combine.
4. Slow down the mixer to beat in the corn flour and finally beat in the salt.
5. Before pouring the mixture into the cake tin, use a spatula to scrape the sides of the bowl and give the mixture a final stir. Pour into the tin (having removed whatever you have used to weigh down the lining!!) and rap the tin a few times on the work surface to get rid of any air bubbles.
6. Place in an oven, 200’c fan, for 50 minutes, by which time it will have risen and be chestnut brown in places. It will, however, still seem undercooked and very ‘jiggly’ but do not be tempted to cook it for longer as it will set as it cools.
7. Remove the tin to a rack and leave to cool. It will sink – it isn’t supposed to look pretty! After about 3 hours it will be cool enough to eat.
8. Serve at room temperature or chilled from the fridge, as you prefer. To serve, unclip the sides and lift it up with the edges of the parchment. Place it on a plate with the parchment still around, peeling it back to cut into slices. If using, serve the liquorice sauce on the side (recipe below).

Liquorice Sauce

If you are a liquorice lover, this sauce from Nigella Lawson’s cookbook ‘Cook, Eat, Repeat’, is definitely a ‘must try’. It’s a good accompaniment to the Basque Burnt Cheesecake (above), but is also wonderful simply spooned over vanilla ice-cream! It will keep well in the fridge.

*You can get the liquorice pellets from good Italian delis or online at Amazon – I used Amarelli Spezzata.

15g hard pure Italian liquorice pellets

90g caster sugar

300ml water

Pinch of fine sea salt (optional)

1. Put the pellets in a small saucepan with 300ml water. Stir in the sugar. Place over a low heat until the liquorice has melted – giving it a stir now and again.
2. Now turn up the heat and let it bubble away until it has reduced to about 150ml and is syrupy –  this can take up to 20 minutes.
3. Taste, adding a pinch of salt if you desire before serving.

I’m hoping that that sun will be out in Suffolk this week as we are holidaying there!…We have booked an Airb&b cottage near to Framlingham, I have since discovered that this is Ed Sheeran’s home town – his song ‘Castle on the Hill’ was referring to Framlinghams’s very own castle! Anyway, apart from star spotting(!), I am looking forward to discovering yet another corner of the UK  that I have never really visited. I have researched a few nearby gastro pubs (watch out for my reviews), but I will probably cook a couple of lunches and dinners so that we can relax and enjoy our rented cottage and its garden. Cooking in an ‘unknown’ kitchen, without ones trusted utensils, can be a challenge, plus I don’t want to spend too much time at the stove, so I have been thinking about a few menus which will require little effort. I thought that this week I would share these, as no doubt they will be useful for you to have, not only for cooking at home but also away!…

Menu One is ‘One Pot Summer Chicken’, all you have to do is brown the chicken pieces and cook them in a pot with some stock and lovely fresh vegetables – baby gem lettuces, asparagus and peas. It really doesn’t need much to accompany it, just a good glass of wine and hopefully some warm weather to enjoy it al fresco; although, some steamed new potatoes wouldn’t be a bad thing. Menu Two is ‘Mullet with a Mustard Crust’, this is simply a case of mixing the mustards and spreading them over fish, then baking them in the oven for about 20 minutes. Once again a good salad and steamed potatoes are a good accompaniment. Finally, not one but two recipes for this month’s ‘Blast from the Past’ recipe. I posted these last July, both recipes use Sauce Vierge, which is a no cook tomato and herb sauce. The sauce can be served with fish – in this case simply pan fried plaice or for an even simpler alternative and a vegetarian option, it is delicious served with spaghetti – ‘Spaghetti alla Sauce Vierge’!

Enjoy…See you next Tuesday for my ‘Tuesday Treat’!

(Don’t forget to check out my ‘Eating Out’ page for new restaurant reviews – just recently I enjoyed ‘Bocca di Lupo’ in Soho and ‘Claude Bosi’ in South Kensington!)

One Pot Summer Chicken with Asparagus, Peas & Lettuce (Serves 4)

This is such an easy dinner dish, all you have to do is brown the chicken pieces and cook them in a pot with some stock and lovely fresh vegetables – baby gem lettuces, asparagus and peas. I particularly love the baby gem lettuces in this dish, they are one of my favourite summer vegetables; if you haven’t cooked them on their own before, you really should try them – see my recipe here! It really doesn’t need much to accompany it, just a good glass of wine although, some steamed new potatoes wouldn’t be a bad thing!

1 tablespoon olive oil

8 small chicken thighs, skin-on and bone-in

1 onion, chopped

3 garlic cloves, chopped

2 baby gem lettuces, halved lengthways

400ml chicken or vegetable stock

3 thyme sprigs

250g asparagus

160g fresh or frozen peas

2 tablespoons crème fraiche

Small bunch fresh parsley, chopped

Sea salt and black pepper

1. First of all prepare your asparagus, snap off and discard the woody ends and if the tips are particularly large cut them in half lengthways. Keep to one side.
2. Place a wide, large casserole dish with the oil over a high heat, add the chicken, skin side down, and cook on a high heat until the skin has browned. Remove and set aside.
3. Add the onion and fry for 2 minutes, stirring. Add the garlic, stir, then add the lettuce halves, cut side down, for 30 seconds. Then flip them over and add the stock and thyme and bring everything to the boil.
4. Lower the heat to just below boiling and cook for 15 minutes.
5. Add the asparagus and peas and cook for a further 6-8 minutes until al dente.
6. Check the chicken thighs are cooked through and lift out onto a plate.
7. Stir in the crème fraiche and chopped parsley, season to taste.
8. Return the chicken to the pan to serve at the table.

Mullet with a Mustard Crust (Serves 4)

Such a lovely way to cook this fish and so tasty! It is simply a case of mixing the mustards and spreading them over, then baking the fish in the oven for about 20 minutes. Serve with a good salad (use a Honey Mustard Vinaigrette – recipe below) and steamed potatoes.

4 Red Mullet, gutted and scaled

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

200g grainy mustard (such as Meaux)

Olive oil

1. Make 3 incisions across the fish on each side.
2. Mix the Dijon and grainy mustard together and spread quite thickly over the fish – you may not use all of the mustard mix.
3. Lightly oil a large baking tray, place the fish on it and bake in the oven, 200’c fan, for 20 minutes.
4. Serve at once with steamed potatoes and a good salad – I like to dress it with Honey Mustard Vinaigrette, recipe below.

Honey-Mustard Vinaigrette

Make up a salad as desired and dress with this honey-mustard vinaigrette:

1 teaspoon wholegrain mustard

4 tablespoons olive oil

Finely grated zest and juice of half an unwaxed lemon

1 teaspoon of honey

Sea salt and black pepper

1. Whisk all the ingredients together.

‘Blast from the Past Recipes‘

I first posted the following two recipes last July, they are perfect summer dishes…if you haven’t already tried them, I urge you to now!!…

Fillet of Sole with Sauce Vierge (Serves 4)

Sauce Vierge is a French sauce generally made with tomatoes, olive oil, lemon juice and herbs, there are many variations but my favourite version is one I found in a cookbook by Nina Parker, ‘Nina’s St Tropez’. It balances the flavours of the vinegar and lemon juice perfectly with the herbs, and is an ideal accompaniment to a delicate fish like sole. It is also a great sauce for pasta – so keep any leftovers for lunch the next day (recipe below)! This fish dish should be kept simple so that the delicate flavour of the sole is not overpowered – so  serve simply with fine green beans and steamed new potatoes.

2 large knobs of butter

2 tablespoons of olive oil

1 clove of garlic, finely sliced

4 sole fillets

Juice of 1 lemon, plus one lemon quartered to serve

Sea salt and black pepper

For the Sauce Vierge:

2 spring onions, finely sliced

2 shallots, finely chopped

Bunch of fresh chives, finely chopped

1 clove garlic, chopped

3 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped

300g tomatoes, about 4 medium

4 tablespoons white wine vinegar

2 teaspoons caster sugar

Juice ½ lemon

60ml olive oil

Sea salt and black pepper

1. Cut the tomatoes into quarters, deseed, discarding any liquid – pat them dry on kitchen roll, slice into strips, then finely dice, add to a bowl along with the other sauce ingredients, mix well and season to taste.
2. To cook the sole, melt a knob of butter and 1 tablespoon of olive oil over a medium heat, add half the garlic. Reduce the heat to medium, add two of the fillets, skin side down, cook for 3-4 minutes.
3. Just before turning the fish add half of the lemon juice. Carefully turn the fish over and cook for a further 1-2 minutes.
4. Remove to a warmed plate whilst you cook the other 2 fillets in the same way.
5. Serve immediately with the Sauce Vierge and the lemon wedges, fine green beans and steamed new potatoes.

Spaghetti with Sauce Vierge (Serves 4)

This is a perfect summer pasta dish, a delicious ‘no cook’ sauce for spaghetti with the added bonus of being vegetarian!

400g Spaghetti

Sauce Vierge – recipe above

1. Make up the sauce vierge – see recipe above.
2. Cook the spaghetti according to the packet instructions until al dente.
3. Drain the spaghetti and mix with the sauce vierge.

Chocolate and Cherry Pavlova

I only discovered this recipe last week, it is incredibly delicious so I had to share it straightaway!!..It is inspired by the retro dessert, black forest gateau, but made with chocolate meringue instead of sponge – it’s fantastic. The recipe is from Rosie Birkett’s cookbook ‘The Joyful Home Cook’, and with recipes like this, it truly is a joyous book! Cherries are in season at the moment, but this recipe would work well year-round, even when they are out of season, as they are macerated in Marsala wine which sweetens them. Although it is made with meringue, once made up, this dessert does keep quite well in the fridge as unlike traditional meringues it is mixed with hazelnuts and chocolate which give it a coarser texture that doesn’t dissolve with the addition of cream. Having said that, I do think it tastes better fresh, and there won’t be much leftover once you get started on it!…

100g dark chocolate (I use Lindt Excellence 70% Cocoa Dark Chocolate), roughly broken up

4 egg whites

220g caster sugar

½ teaspoon white wine vinegar

100g blanched, skinless hazelnuts, roughly chopped

500g cherries, pitted

175ml Marsala wine or cherry liqueur

350ml double cream

10g dark chocolate for grating

1. First, macerate the cherries. Put them in a bowl and cover with the Marsala wine, tossing them so that they are thoroughly coated. Set aside.
2. Melt the chocolate in a bowl over a saucepan of barely simmering water (a bain-marie).
3. Whisk the egg whites in a spotlessly clean bowl until stiff peaks form. Gradually, in batches, add the caster sugar, whisking constantly until the mixture is thick and glossy. Whisk in the vinegar. Pour the melted chocolate down the sides of the bowl, turning the bowl to distribute it evenly, then add the nuts and fold them through lightly so that the meringue is marbled with the chocolate.
4. Line 2 baking trays with baking parchment, draw a 20cm circle on each and spread the meringue mixture evenly onto each circle – creating two meringue discs.
5. Bake in a preheated oven, 110’c fan, for 2 hours. Remove from the oven, lift the meringues and parchment onto wire racks to cool.
6. Whip up the cream until it just forms soft peaks – being careful not to over-whip it.
7. Drain the Marsala from the macerating cherries and fold it into the cream – it will seem runny at first but will thicken as you incorporate it. Now fold in half of the cherries.
8. Peel the baking parchment from the cooled meringues. Place one of the meringues on a serving plate, spread with just over half the cream mixture and top with the other meringue disc. Top with the remaining cream mixture and then the remaining cherries. Grate over the dark chocolate and serve.

Like, no doubt,  a lot of people I associate months with anniversaries and special events. For instance, April is ‘my month’ as it’s my birthday, whilst September is not only the month for fresh starts with the end of summer and the beginning of the school year, but it’s also my son, Felix’s birthday. Then, of course, there is the one that we all associate with Christmas, December…and so it goes on. One thing my associations all have in common is food or rather, they facilitate the excuse to have a special meal! This month, July, is ‘Nick’s month’ as it is his birthday which of course means a celebratory dinner. Not only do I cook him a ‘birthday meal’ at home, but we also book a particularly special restaurant to dine in – this year I’m looking forward to dinner at Claude Bosi at Bibendum (watch out for the review in the next few weeks!). So, over the last week I’ve been thinking about Nick’s favourite meals and bearing this in mind, this week’s Menu Mistress features a couple of his favourites.

Menu one is a meal which Nick himself like’s to cook, ‘Chicken with Lemon & Capers’. In fact, the recipe shown in the photo’s was cooked by him – yes, he can cook very well, when I allow him in the kitchen(!), and I must admit he cooks this dish better than me! It’s a very tasty recipe from Antonio Carluccio’s cookbook ‘A Invitation to Italian Cooking’. Here I have served it with ‘Italian Style Sauté Potatoes’ and ‘Fried carrots’, which, if I am completely honest, do require a bit of attention at the stove but are definitely worth it. If you want a potato dish that is more hands-free, I would serve it with ‘Baby Roast Potatoes’ (recipe here). Menu Two is a relatively new recipe that I have discovered, and which Nick really enjoyed, so I am planning to cook this on his birthday; Prawn Moilee is a beautifully spiced mild curry with warm flavours. It is from the cookbook Dishoom, which features the recipes from the Dishoom restaurant’s much-loved menu of ‘Bombay comfort food’. This particular recipe is probably one of the simplest in the book, yet it does not forfeit flavour, it’s great for a midweek meal yet equally special enough for a celebratory meal. Finally, for a vegetarian option, Menu Three is ‘Asparagus, Corn & Goats Cheese Frittata’. If I’m honest, Nick is not completely sold on vegetarian food, however since I’ve been on a mission to share more vegetarian meals on Menu Mistress, he has had to eat more vegetarian recipes than before! This is one of his new favourites – it really makes the perfect summer supper with a big, crunchy salad and it would also be perfect for a picnic! Finally, I couldn’t have a birthday in the family without a cocktail, could I?!…So, I’m sharing one of Nick’s new favourite tipples, an Elderflower Gimlet. This cocktail uses the same St Germain liquor which the champagne cocktail I shared last month required, so you absolutely need to invest in a bottle of this for the summer!…

I am also sharing a new Menu Music playlist. Nick likes a bit of reggae now and again, so this is one I’ve put together with him in mind. It has some easy reggae tracks which are perfect for a summers day…check out ‘Easy Reggae to Cook to…Menu Music Thirteen’.

Have a great week, see you next Tuesday for a ‘Tuesday Treat’!

Menu One

Chicken Breasts with Lemon & Capers (Serves 4)

In this recipe, chicken is complemented with the flavour of capers combined with the wonderful acidity of lemon – it really is a match made in heaven! I found it many moons ago in Antonio Carluccio’s cookbook ‘An Invitation to Italian Cooking’, which has lots of wonderful, classic Italian recipes…the page with this recipe is particularly well thumbed! I like to serve these chicken breasts with ‘Italian Style Sauté Potatoes with Garlic & Rosemary’ and ‘Fried Carrots’ (recipes below).

*If your chicken breasts are particularly large, you may find it easier to ‘butterfly’ them (you can ask your butcher to do this). You could also cut them into escalopes (see my video here). This will make them quicker to cook through, so you may want to reduce the cooking time that I have suggested.

4 chicken breasts (see note above)

Plain flour for dusting (gluten free if required)

45g butter

1 tablespoon capers

1 large lemon, juiced and zested

Sea salt and black pepper

1. Season the flour with salt and pepper and roll the chicken breasts in them, shaking off any excess flour.
2. Heat the butter in a frying pan over a medium heat, when it is hot add the chicken breasts. Fry gently on each side until they are cooked through and golden brown – about 15 minutes (see note above). Remove the chicken to a warm plate.
3. Add the capers, grated lemon zest and lemon juice to the pan. Stir well to deglaze the pan, season with salt and pepper and pour over the chicken breasts.

Italian Style Sauté Potatoes with Garlic & Rosemary (Serves 4)

This is a wonderful recipe for potatoes, it does need a little attention at the stove, but it is well worth it!…

500g potatoes (such as Maris Piper), peeled

8 large cloves garlic, unpeeled

8 tablespoons olive oil

1 sprig of fresh rosemary

Sea salt and black pepper

1. Cut the potatoes into 1.5cm cubes.
2. Heat the olive oil in a frying pan and when hot add the potato cubes. Spread them out well over the pan, but do not stir fry – allow them to form a golden crust before turning them over.
3. When you turn them over add the garlic cloves. Fry together to brown on all sides.
4. Just before the end of cooking add the rosemary, salt and pepper.

Fried Carrots (Serves 4)

Such a simple idea – but soooo delicious!

600g carrots, peeled

4 cloves garlic, unpeeled

3 tablespoons olive oil

Sea salt and black pepper

1. Slice the carrots lengthways.
2. Bring a saucepan of water to the boil, add some salt and the carrots. Cook, gently bubbling for 7-8 minutes until they are just cooked – still al dente.
3. Heat the olive oil in a frying pan and gently fry the carrots with the unpeeled garlic cloves, until browned.

Menu Two

Prawn Moilee (Serves 4)

This curry is beautifully spiced with mild, warm flavours. It is from the cookbook Dishoom, which shares the recipes from the Dishoom restaurant’s much-loved menu of ‘Bombay comfort food’. This particular recipe is probably one of the simplest in the book, yet it does not forfeit flavour, it’s great for a midweek meal yet equally special enough for a celebratory meal!

You will find fresh curry leaves at most Asian food shops, it’s worth buying more than you need as they freeze well!

6 green chillies

40ml vegetable oil

2 teaspoons mustard seeds

20 fresh curry leaves

300g onions, sliced

15g garlic paste

15g ginger paste

2 teaspoons fine sea salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1¼ teaspoons ground turmeric

25g fresh root ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks (see tip above)

400ml coconut milk

250ml coconut cream

24 large peeled prawns, defrosted if frozen

300g medium tomatoes, cut into bite size wedges

Lemon wedges, to serve

1. Remove and discard the stalks and seeds of the chillies, then slice each one into 3 or 4 long strips. Set to one side.
2. Place a large saucepan over a medium heat. Add the oil and let it warm for a few seconds, then add the mustard seeds and the curry leaves. Let them crackle for a few minutes.
3. Add the onions and sauté lightly for 12-14 minutes until soft but not coloured.
4. Add the garlic and ginger pastes, salt, black pepper and turmeric and sauté for 3 minutes, stirring. Add the sliced chillies and ginger matchsticks and cook for 3 minutes.
5. Pour in the coconut milk and cream. Simmer for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.
6. Now add the prawns and tomatoes to the sauce and simmer for a further 5-6 minutes until the prawns are just cooked.
7. Serve with plain steamed rice and the lemon wedges on the side.

Menu Three

Asparagus, Corn & Goats Cheese Frittata (Serves 4)

This is a summer favourite, it makes a great, fast supper with a big, crunchy salad (see my salad dressings here!) or it’s great for a picinic!

400g asparagus

2 corn-on-the-cob

50g butter

4 spring onions, chopped

Bunch of fresh dill, chopped

8 eggs, beaten

200g firm goats cheese, broken into pieces

Sea salt and black pepper

1. Snap off and discard the woody ends of the asparagus and cut the spears into 2-3 cm lengths (if the spears are particularly thick, split them in half lengthways).
2. Remove the corn from the corn-on-the- cob, by running a sharp knife down along the cob.
3. Heat half the butter in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Add the asparagus, corn and spring onions, fry for 2-3 minutes, stirring. Transfer to a bowl, add the chopped dill (reserving a little for a garnish), and gently mix in the beaten eggs, seasoning with salt and pepper.
4. Wipe the pan clean, then add the remaining butter over a high heat. When it has melted and starts to sizzle add the frittata mixture and reduce the heat to medium. Arrange the pieces of goats cheese over the top of the frittata, pushing them down into the mixture.
5. Cook for about 10-15 minutes, until the sides of the frittata start to puff up.
6. When it is just about set but still has a little wobble, place the pan with the frittata under a very hot grill to set the top.
7. Let it cool a little, before sprinkling with the reserved dill and cutting into thick wedges to serve.

A Little Treat!…

An Elderflower Gimlet (Serves 1)

Apparently a gimlet cocktail has its roots in British naval history. Sailors were encouraged to drink lime juice with their liquor to prevent scurvy. Naturally the recipe is more refined these days, but I suppose you could still say that it has health benefits?!..

4 tablespoons gin

3 tablespoons St Germain

1 tablespoon lime juice

(Lime wedge to garnish)

1. Add the gin, St Germain and lime juice to a cocktail shaker, add a handful of ice cubes and shake until cold.
2. Strain into a glass and garnish with a lime wedge.

Salted Honey Ice-Cream

This is my new favourite no-churn ice-cream – it uses condensed milk so does not require an ice-cream maker. It is seriously good! I have taken the recipe from Skye McAlpine’s cookbook, ‘A Table for Friends’, she has completely nailed the balance of flavours – the sweetness of the honey is toned down with the bitterness of dark chocolate and a little sea salt. It really is divine, you must try it!…

(Go to my Desserts Page for Coffee & Cardamom Ice-Cream and Strawberry Ice-Cream – both of these are also easy, no-churn recipes!)

600g double cream

1 x 397g tin of condensed milk

80g runny honey

½ teaspoon sea salt flakes

100g dark chocolate (I use Lindt Excellence 70% Cocoa Dark Chocolate), chopped,  plus more to serve

1. Whisk the cream until stiff peaks begin to form (take care not to over whip as you want the texture to be smooth).
2. Gently fold the condensed milk into the cream, then drizzle in the honey, sprinkle with salt and fold all the ingredients evenly together.
3. Toss in the chopped chocolate and gently stir through so that it is peppered throughout the mixture.
4. Pour the mixture into a freezer-safe container and to stop ice crystals forming, cover the mixture with a sheet of greaseproof paper before putting the lid on.
5.  Freeze for 6-8 hours or overnight. The ice-cream will keep in the freezer for up to 3 months.
6. Scoop to serve and sprinkle with chopped chocolate.