Not only do I love cooking at home, but I also enjoy eating out. Here are some reviews of restaurants I have enjoyed; I only review those that I would recommend as life is too short to write about bad food!!…
*I’d love to hear about any restaurants you would recommend – send me an email here!…
October 2025
Angelina restaurant opened to rave reviews back in 2019. Until now, I hadn’t eaten there, as to be honest, I wasn’t completely sold on the idea of their Italian-Japanese fusion menu. Although I enjoy Asian fusion food, I questioned this Italian-Japanese combo. Then, more recently, a ‘friend of a friend’ with Japanese roots was raving about it, and then the same happened with an Italian friend. So, I thought, if they could handle the mix of their country’s flavours, I certainly could…
The restaurant can be found, like a lot of London’s new, cutting-edge restaurants, in the East End, to be precise, on Dalston Lane. The interior is casually sophisticated. There’s an open kitchen and bar seating with hanging Japanese lanterns whilst tables are elegantly topped with ‘Italian’ marble – the combination is stylish, subtly reflecting the Japanese-Italian theme. The atmosphere is chilled and on-trend, perfect for East End fashionistas. They serve one ‘Kaiseki’ menu, which is a set menu consisting of thirteen dishes that change depending on the availability of the best seasonal ingredients. With no written menu available to take away, it’s been up to my taste buds to remember exactly what we ate – thankfully there were quite a few memorable dishes!.. The first couple of dishes were a selection of canapés which included ‘Seaweed & Squid Crackers’, these were salty bites with a slightly sweet flavour, they were very moreish – it was a shame there was just one each! ‘Lobster & Chicken Skin on Custard’ was wonderfully light, managing to balance creamy custard with the sweet lobster and the crispy, umami flavour of chicken skin. This was followed by a couple of incredibly fresh dishes, ‘Ceviche with Citrus Juices’ and ‘Peach Salad’. They sang with fresh flavour and were served with a seaweed focaccia, yes, that beautiful punch of salt again – they’re good at that! ‘Pasta Rolled with Sausage with Seafood Crudo’ was a definite nod to their Italian roots. Let’s face it, sausage and pasta can do no wrong together, and the addition of the crudo of seafood gave the dish a sweet edge; it was a winning combo. Our final savoury dish was ‘Tuna, Anchovy & Salsa Verde’. I feared that the salty anchovy would overpower the tuna, but in true Angelina style, it was a well-balanced and delicious dish. Finally, three dessert dishes: ‘Green Tea Cake’, that was a sophisticated nod to Japanese matcha, a moist ‘Pistachio cake’ with a dash of pistachio cream that was, of course, Italian-inspired, and a crowd-pleasing scoop of ‘Chocolate Ice-cream’ – simply because, how can a restaurant with Italian leanings not have gelato on the menu?… and of course, everyone loves chocolate!
By the end of the meal we were totally sold on the concept of Italian-Japanese fusion food. Unlike me, don’t put off eating at Angelina for too long. The set menu, at just £68 a head, is a steal for the quality of food and the innovative style with which it is served!..
The Kerfield Arms, Camberwell, SE5.
September 2025
Back in August, I was disappointed to hear that a favourite local restaurant, Kudu Grill (review below), would be closing and moving uptown to Marylebone. But, as they say, ‘when one door closes another opens’… and around the same time that Kudu Grill announced its departure, I discovered that just 10 minutes down the road, the Kerfield Arms, had opened to rave reviews. Admittedly, I was a little sceptical to hear it described as Camberwell’s newest ‘gastropub’ as I’m not keen on this term as it seems that these days, a ‘gastropub’ can be any old pub that’s had a quick makeover. Eating in one does not necessarily guarantee a gastronomic experience. So, it was with trepidation that I recently entered the refurbished pub, re-invented as The Kerfield Arms…
First impressions were good; they hadn’t just slapped on the ‘Farrow & Ball’ paint in any old way, instead, you could see it had been done with thought and care. Simple off-white walls, which are highlighted by sage-green window frames, along with a striking bottle-green bar, all made the airy room feel contemporary yet true to its traditional roots. Importantly, this ‘gastropub’ is still a local boozer. Only half the pub is given over to the dining room, so getting a pint with a packet of crisps at your local is still possible. However, I’m not really a ‘packet of crisps and a pint’ type, so I was happy to find myself sitting at a table in the dining room…
The menu is a modern fare with Mediterranean influences. We dived straight in with a pre-starter of the ‘Tarasamalata with Fried Pizza Dough’. The tarasamalta was incredibly good, creamy and moreish; the puffed pizza dough was an inspired accompaniment. Moving on, we enjoyed starters ‘Delica pumpkin, Cime di rape & Goat’s Curd’, the sweetness of the pumpkin was wonderfully cut by the toasted flavours of Middle Eastern spices and further enhanced by the creamy curd. The ‘Beef Tartare’ was unusual in the sense that it was actually served on top of toasted bread, but it worked, and was perfectly seasoned. Next up, our mains were ‘Peterhead Cod, Brandade, Pickled Fennel, Bombe Calabrese’, there was a lot going on, however, the flavours all sang together – the bombe calabrese, a red pepper sauce, was only subtly spiced, so it didn’t overpower the dish and was cut by the creamy brandade. I particularly liked the addition of the pickled fennel, which added a crisp texture and a refreshing flavour. We also ordered ‘Saltmarsh Lamb, Pastilla, Romero Pepper & Yoghurt’, the lamb was cooked beautifully and again, additional flavours, the pastille, peppers and yoghurt, complemented each other fantastically. Finally, dessert, I must admit I was by now pretty stuffed – that delicious tarasalamata was to blame, my eyes were definitely bigger than my stomach! So, we decided to share a dessert; Crème Caramel with Sollies Figs was the icing on the cake and confirmed that I would be returning to the Kerfield Arms!..
July 2025
Last week Nick celebrated being yet another year older! It was a particularly beautiful summer’s evening which was made even better by the fact that we were celebrating at Restaurant St Barts. The setting was dreamy, our table looked out onto the historic St Bartholomew the Great, London’s oldest surviving church, which looked glorious under the early evening sun. In comparison to the medieval view, the interior of Restaurant St Barts is wonderfully modern with concrete walls softened by natural wooden floors and furnishings. It’s a calm, serene, ‘Scandi’ styled interior and a great dining space, particularly for a special occasion!
Dinner at Restaurant St Bart starts in the lounge bar, where the journey through their twelve-course tasting menu begins. It’s a journey that takes you through the British Isles, showcasing the very best produce available. They’re passionate about championing home-grown produce, and as we travelled through the menu, it was astonishing to taste the great lengths they go to in order to achieve this. Over our cocktails (the Negroni was particularly good!), our waitress presented us with a wax-sealed menu which could be opened or left intact so that our meal was a complete surprise – we already felt that we were in good hands, so it was left unopened until after our last course! The first four courses, which were canapé-style snacks, were served in the aforementioned lounge bar. They were all excellent. My personal favourite, the ‘Duck Liver Parfait’, served on a crisp, nutty biscuit base, was light yet incredibly indulgent! After this selection of ‘amuse bouche’, we were shown to our table and ‘that view’ – we were seated beside the floor-to-ceiling windows that looked out onto the cloisters of the medieval St Barts, it was truly stunning. It was with this tranquil vista that our flavoursome journey continued… Stand out dishes were the ‘Scallop & Mangalitza Pork’, the sweetness from the scallop was balanced by the smoky, chargrilled tang of pork – together the flavours were spectacular. There was also ‘Peas, Lovage & Lardo’, the freshest, brightest peas served on a creamy custard, delivering deliciously fresh flavours. Whilst ‘Turbot, House Miso & British Citrus’ was an innovative dish which managed to champion British produce to make a Japanese-inspired course – it was a triumph of sweet, salty flavours with beautifully cooked fish. And ‘Roasted Ricotta & Berries’ was a tangy, subtly sweet pre-dessert which toyed with our palates, preparing them for the final dish… Dessert was ‘Black Koji & Barley,’ a very British ‘chocolate-inspired’ treat. Naturally, chocolate isn’t produced in the British Isles, and so, to keep to their commitment to showcase only British produce, the restaurant isn’t able to serve desserts containing chocolate(!). But this dessert was by no means a disappointment, it was again a truly innovative dish – sweet, malty and rich, who needs chocolate?!..
The tasting menu is a treat that doesn’t come cheap, and although innovative and well executed, some of the flavours do miss; however, it really is a great culinary adventure. And of course, there’s the setting, it’s an interior which must be the envy of many restaurateurs. You may be in the middle of London, but Restaurant St Bart offers a sanctuary of peace, serenity and flavour. (Tasting Menu £160/ Midweek Set Menu £120).
The Fordwich Arms, Fordwich, Kent
April 2025
My husband, Nick, has fond memories of the ‘Fordwich Arms’, a pub which is now home to the latest restaurant we visited. When he was just a whippersnapper, back in the late ’70s (!), he lived close by and worked behind its bar. Who would have thought that it would now be home to a Michelin-starred restaurant?! Things have definitely changed over the years and having heard good things about its latest residents Nick and I took a day trip out of London to check it out. First impressions were good, Nick was pleased to find that although it’s a lot smarter, the interior was not dissimilar to the old pub he remembered. You can still enjoy a pint at the long bar in the main pub or you can spoil yourself with the fine dining menu in their wood-panelled dining room; this is where we were seated. The room is lovely but unfortunately, on the day we visited, the English weather was undecided and the room was a little chilly, it would have benefited from the fire being lit even if it was mid-April. However, fortunately, the house cocktail, a ‘Mandarin & Ginger Sour’ soon made me forget the chill and we dived into the tasting menu (£110) – it’s also possible to order the a la carte menu for £85. The meal started, as you would expect from a fine-dining establishment, with a selection of ‘snacks’; an amuse-bouche which tantalized our palates and left us excited for what was to follow. There was also homemade soda bread and a glazed brioche roll, these were both delicious but it was the ‘smoked bacon butter’ which was the show stopper. This butter was seriously good, it should be sold in tubs – it would make the most wonderful breakfast bap with a fried egg…! Our first course was ‘Smoked Chalk Stream Trout & Jalapeno’, it was a deliciously refreshing dish – the sorbet with jalapeno was a game changer, subtly lifting the flavours of the smoked trout. Next, ‘Chicken Liver Parfait, Biddeneden Ice Cider & Warm Doughnuts’, was, after the lightness of the trout, a heavy step up but a delicious one! The smooth parfait was cut by the sweetness of the cider jelly whilst the doughnuts were an inspired addition, rather like brioche, rich and slightly sweet yet light and fluffy – the perfect complement. The next dish was my favourite, ‘Hake, Swede, Monks Beard & Vin Jaune’, it was absolutely fantastic. The swede was the perfect partner to the hake; who would have imagined that its light, subtle sweetness would have gone so well? It was an elegant dish, every flavour was carefully considered – the soft hake, the swede puree, the slightly vinegary pearl onions, the little roll of fresh cabbage and an additional batter-covered nugget of hake… I could eat this dish every day! It was a hard act the follow, and so it was difficult to give the ‘Beef, Grelot Onion, Creamed Potato & Pickled Walnut’ the credit it fully deserved but it was still a joy to eat! The tender fillet of beef and rich braised beef were served with a sauce of green peppercorns, the plate was balanced in both flavour and presentation. Finally their signature dessert, ‘The Fordwich Arms Snicker’, which is unsurprisingly much better than its namesake; a smooth, rich chocolate parfait cut with toffee and peanut butter – seriously moreish!
Our day out was not only a trip down memory lane but a fantastic culinary adventure. I must admit that we weren’t expecting the cooking to be of such a high standard or its flavours to be as inventive. Of course, a good restaurant is not only down to its food but also the service and atmosphere and this is again where the Fordwich Arms excelled, the staff were professional yet friendly and genuinely proud and passionate about the food they were serving. I imagine that it won’t be long before the Fordwich Arms gains a second Michelin star. We will be returning!..
April 2025
I wasn’t aware of Rogues until I was taken there recently as a surprise treat. As you can imagine I’m rather fussy when it comes to restaurant choices and I admit that I was rather sceptical when I spotted Rogues from the outside; it’s rather uninspiring and its position on Hackney Rd is a little grim. However, my son, Felix, had done his research (as they say ‘the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree’!) and it turns out that he’d discovered a gem of a restaurant…
On entering you pass through a curtain to the surprise of a cosy, candle-lit dining room – the gritty street outside is very soon forgotten. Then there’s the incredibly warm, friendly welcome. It seems that the staff at Rogues are truly passionate about the food they serve. Seated at our table the waitress enthusiastically explained how the menu worked – there’s an a la carte menu from which you can order any quantity of sharing plates depending on how hungry you are or you can go all out and have the tasting menu which is a steal at around £65 a head. Naturally, we went all out and had the tasting menu! There were ten small courses and I must say that they were all delicious; I won’t bore you with the details of all ten plates but stand-out dishes that deserve a special mention included… ‘Cured Sea Trout with Orange, Sorrel and Sour Cream’ a wonderfully refreshing course in which trout was simply cured in citrusy juices with a dash of salty trout roe. The ‘Cod Collar with Monks Beard and Katsu Sauce’ was beautifully cooked – this cut of fish is normally undervalued but at Rogues they appreciate how wonderfully flavourful it is; served with the slightly bitter monks beard and the sweet tangy katsu sauce it was extraordinarily good. Meanwhile, the ‘Haunch of Venison with Creamed Parsnips, Cranberries and Turnip Tops’ was, for a meat-lover like myself, a show-stopping dish; once again the bitter-sweet flavours were perfectly balanced. Finally dessert, ‘Rhubarb, Magnolia, Pistachio and White Chocolate Trifle’… well who can say no to any rhubarb dessert?!
Before the meal had even finished, I was so impressed that I was googling ‘Who is behind the restaurant Rogues?… (and how had I not heard about it before?! ). Well, it turns out that the chefs, Freddie Sheen and Zac Whittle, had originally met in the kitchen of the fine-dining restaurant ‘Galvin La Chapelle’. Recognising that they shared similar cooking styles and ideas they decided to go ‘rogue’ with their very own restaurant concept. Although the style of food at Rogues is a more casual affair, the menu’s finely tuned flavours reflect their fine-dining roots. Without a doubt, it’s a testament to their talent that they’re able to serve a tasting menu that manages to be unpretentious yet stunningly good, plus is honestly priced. It’s a restaurant that deserves far more publicity and one which you should definitely visit!..
March 2025
Before the cookbook, there was the restaurant!..
I’ve shared a few of the recipes from the ‘Brutto’ cookbook, however, despite my best intentions, until just recently, I’d never eaten in the restaurant. Brutto is one of those restaurants where in order to secure a table you need to be organised. Bookings open 14 days in advance and woe betide those who aren’t able to book on the dot as reservations are quickly taken and for good reason…
Brutto is a trattoria with a Florentine-styled menu; a Tuscan dream and, even better, it’s in central London. The interior is very old-style Italian, rather like those you can imagine from the 1980s, with red gingham tablecloths and candles dribbling wax down wicker wine bottles. The atmosphere is lively; before visiting I noticed on their website a note – “We play music; combined with the buzz of lively conversation, it is often considered loud for some, but exactly how we like it” … Hmmm, I thought, it seems that it might be a little too lively?!… However, although you can definitely hear the music it’s not too intrusive, but I would say that Brutto is probably not a good choice for a first date! In addition to the music, the fun atmosphere is enhanced by the fact that they serve Negronis at £5 a shot! Then there’s the menu – their philosophy is simplicity and quality, Italian food at its best – it’s worth noting that almost all of the dishes are under £20. We started with a couple of antipasti. Straightaway the ‘Coccoli with Proscuitto & Stracchino’ caught our eye as we enjoyed a similar dish, ‘Sgabei’, in the Lunigiana region of Tuscany. Coccoli (as they are known in Florence) or Sgabei are deep-fried puffs of dough. They are the perfect accompaniment to salty prosciutto and creamy Stracchino cheese. The Coccoli at Brutto are fantastically light and very moreish – along with the prosciutto and stracchino they passed our stringent tasting test with flying colours! We also chose the ‘Vegetable Crudites with Olive Oil and Lemon’; raw and unadorned yet incredibly tasty vegetables served with new season olive oil which was grassy and peppery, it was a wonderful, clean-tasting dish. Moving on to main courses, there was ‘Penne con Vodka’ – we couldn’t say no to this dish as at home we often cook this recipe from the Brutto cookbook (find the recipe here!), the restaurant version was equally good; if I’m honest a little better than our homecooked version as the sauce was slightly richer – I’m guessing they cook it for longer over a very low heat. We also chose the ‘Salsicce di Miale e Finocchio con Lenticche e Senape’, beautifully meaty sausages with a hint of fennel served with lentils and mustard. It was the lentils which shone out in this dish, it was obvious that they had been cooked in a rich flavoursome vegetable stock – they were delicious! Finally dessert, ‘Pannacotta with rhubarb’, I can’t think of a better way to celebrate the new season rhubarb – it was a fantastic end to a very enjoyable meal!
With good food at a good price, eating at Brutto is undoubtedly a joyous occasion… and in addition, there’s those Negronis!
February 2025
You may have already heard of ‘The Devonshire’; it’s most definitely the new ‘darling’ of London’s restaurant scene. So, it will be no surprise that getting a reservation at this Soho ‘gastropub’ can be an exhausting battle. When it first opened I tried to get a table but after several failed attempts I decided to wait until its novelty had worn off. However, almost a year and a half later it’s still very much the flavour of the month and it’s just as difficult to get a table for dinner. Last week Nick had a couple of days off, so we decided that our best bet was to book a table for a midweek lunch – finally, success!
First of all, let’s get real, The Devonshire is essentially a pub on the edge of Soho, a stone’s throw from Piccadilly Circus – if you want a quiet, romantic spot it’s not for you. Downstairs it’s a traditional boozer and if you know your Guinness it should be at the top of your list as, food aside, it’s gained a reputation for serving the best Guinness in town. On entering I was filled with nostalgia, the smell was that of an old-school pub; growing up in the seventies, I would often pop my head around our local pub’s door to call my dad home for Sunday lunch – it was a forbidden place for us kids and I loved the mystery that this glimpse gave me, the smell of hops and malt, and wooden floorboards. So, as we pushed our way through, past the bar, to the stairway which would take us up to the restaurant, this first impression had already won me over.
Upstairs the restaurant is spread over two floors, both have a wonderful buzzy, convivial atmosphere. At first, I feared that the tables were too squashed together but in fact, they were comfortably snug. Service was slick and our menus arrived along with our martinis (which were very good!). What a fantastic menu, British pub food to be proud of, and there’s a set menu at just £29 for three courses! We decided to order one set menu and one a la carte. It was an inspired choice. To start with from the set menu there was a ‘Prawn & Langoustine Cocktail’, with plenty of prawns richly dressed in Marie Rose sauce, it was exactly how any seafood cocktail should be. Our a la carte starter was ‘Scallops, Bacon & Malt Vinegar’, which was delicious and moreish; the vinegary sauce was beautifully balanced and easily mopped up by the warm, sweet brioche rolls which were generously handed around. Our set menu main course was ‘Skirt Steak, Chips & Béarnaise Sauce’, it was a simple dish but well executed; the duck fat chips were particularly good whilst the tarragon in the béarnaise sauce shone through. Our second main was ‘Roast Turbot and Hollandaise’, it was a wonderfully fresh, meaty piece of fish – again simply presented but done well. Even the side salad was perfectly dressed. Finally desserts, ‘Chocolate Mousse, Cherries & Cream’ which was extremely light considering it was so indulgently rich – fantastic! Meanwhile ‘Bread and Butter Pudding’ was a ‘comfort pudding’ fit for kings!
We were bowled over by our meal, it was an experience that reflected both quality and value for money – words that these days you rarely see in the same sentence. I must admit, I was sceptical to believe all the hype before visiting; could it really merit the difficulty of getting a table? Well yes, it can! By coincidence, as if to underline this, on our way home we picked up the ‘Standard’ newspaper in which there was an article ‘Why Are Londoners Being Priced Out of Dining in the Capital?’; it lamented the rising cost of eating out, however, one of the restaurants that did get a mention for its fair-priced menu was The Devonshire! Enough said. My advice is to go online and get any table you can (bookings open every Thursday for three weeks in advance)!..
November 2024
Rochelle Canteen opened back in 2004, but it’s only now, twenty years later, that I’ve eaten at this east London institution; yes, I’m rather late to the party! Initially, Rochelle Canteen opened as more of a café serving only breakfast and lunch, it was a casual affair for those in the know. However, later it acquired a licence to serve both alcohol and dinner, and it hasn’t looked back. It’s a quirky restaurant and all the better for it. Firstly I’ll warn you that finding this restaurant is no easy feat, even with your friend ‘Mr Google’. Last Saturday night we found ourselves walking around in circles. The address is Playground Gardens but you’ll find it easier to deliver yourself to Arnold Circus, where you’ll come across an inconspicuous door within a brick wall, beside which there are a row of buzzers – one belongs to Rochelle Canteen (you’ll need the torch on your phone if it’s dark!). Once you’ve pressed the buzzer you can enter the inner sanctum, a walled garden, which I’m told is wonderful in the summer but even on the cold, dark evening we visited it was rather thrilling to enter this secret oasis. At the end of a little path you’ll find an old Victorian school building and in its converted bike shed you’ll find Rochelle Canteen. Although Shoreditch High St is just a stones-throw-away the hustle and bustle of London seems a very long way off. After the ‘cloak and dagger’ entrance the restaurant itself seems rather casual – the main ‘shed’ houses some of the tables but the majority are in the ‘conservatory’, which is a rather temporary-looking addition. Fortunately, I had heard about the layout, and if I’m honest it was one of the reasons I hadn’t visited before as I had worried it was more of a ‘fair weather’ type of place, which with our UK weather leaves a lot to be desired. But fear not, this conservatory is well insulated and even on the miserable winter evening that we visited it was warm and inviting.
Finally, after our slightly stressful but exciting entrance, we were seated at our table!.. And greeted by a short but enticing menu. Food is, of course, the real secret to Rochelle Canteen’s success, yes there’s the frisson of entering its hidden and unusual location but it’s the simple, seasonal menu which really attracts. My starter was ‘Quail and Aioli’, roasted and charred with the most delicious aioli that had just the right balance of garlic. Nick opted for ‘Smoked Haddock Fritter & Tartare Sauce’, the fritters were crisp on the outside and wonderfully fluffy on the inside, however, it was the fresh tartare sauce that made them sing. Our main courses were ‘Mallard, Cavallo Nero, Carrots & Crab Apple’ and ‘Pork Chop, Turnips, Kale & Mustard Sauce’. Both the mallard and pork chop were cooked to perfection whilst the vegetables were the highlight of both dishes, they had the quality of seasonal freshness and were seriously tasty; we also ordered the side dish of new potatoes – they were some of the best I’ve tasted for a long time! Finally desserts, ‘Bread Pudding, Butterscotch & Vanilla Ice Cream’ and ‘Chocolate Terrine & Brandy Prunes’. Nick exclaimed that the bread pudding was as good as his mum’s – high praise indeed! Whilst the chocolate terrine was rich and moreish – gloriously indulgent with the brandy prunes.
The meal was totally unfussy and delicious – informal cooking at its best. Now that I know exactly where Rochelle’s Canteen is and how warm and friendly its atmosphere is, I shall be visiting again soon; lunch in January is on my agenda and come summer I’ll be booking a table in their garden… I suggest you too search out this hidden gem!
October 2024
It’s been quite some time since my last review for the simple reason that I’ve been struggling to find somewhere that I was happy to recommend. Eating out is, like everything else, getting more expensive and with this price increase I’m naturally becoming more demanding. I was beginning to ask myself if I should lower my expectations, then last week Café Cecilia ticked all the boxes that a good restaurant should and at a justifiable price…
To be honest, this wasn’t my first visit to Café Cecilia as I’d had lunch there a few years ago. It was lunch with an old friend so we were concentrating on catching up rather than on the food; a review wasn’t on my mind despite the food being delicious! Afterwards, as it’s not on my doorstep, I put Café Cecilia to the back of my mind. However, just recently I was fortuitously reminded of it by, of all people, the cookery book writer, Diana Henry. In September, I happened to go to a book signing for her newly re-published book, ‘Crazy Water, Pickled Lemons’; she’s a fantastic speaker and during her entertaining talk she happened to mention that Café Cecilia was one of her favourite restaurants. So, I knew that I had to make the effort to go over to Hackney sooner rather than later…
Café Cecilia can be found just off Hackney’s Broadway Market, overlooking Regents Canal under the uncompromising eye of two massive, redundant gas holders. It’s a view which suits the restaurant’s industrial interior perfectly; white walls, a high exposed ceiling, an open kitchen and simple wooden tables. This open style is unforgiving to sound – it’s loud in Café Cecilia, however, although you might have to shout to be heard when you order there’s a great vibe. The room overflows with energy, this is a restaurant that’s all about socialising and of course, there’s the fantastic food!.. On paper, the menu is short and simple, but don’t be fooled as flavours are abundant. I started with the ‘Haddock Chowder’, this wasn’t a soupy chowder but a rich, smoky flavoured sauce-like soup with meaty pieces of haddock and floury pieces of potato – it was fabulous. Nick ordered the ‘Bitter Leaves, Figs, Brunswick Blue & Walnuts’; a radicchio salad dressed in a wonderful cheesy vinaigrette with a touch of sweetness from balsamic figs. In addition, he couldn’t resist ordering their signature ‘Sage & Anchovy Fritti’. Unfortunately, as they’re laden with gluten I couldn’t try them but he assured me that they were most excellent; crunchy, salty morsels which were completely addictive – he easily ‘scoffed the lot’ without any help! My main course was ‘Onglet, Chips & Peppercorn Sauce’, simple on paper and to the eye but full of flavour. The steak was cooked to perfection, chargrilled and smoky, served with a well-seasoned, creamy peppercorn sauce – it was seriously good. Then of course there were the chips, they really know how to serve a chip here; light, crisp and not too greasy! Nick’s choice was ‘Brill with Potato, Fennel & Butter Sauce’, the brill was cooked beautifully whilst the dauphinoise potato was delicious on the side, it was a simple yet well-flavoured dish. Finally desserts, an ‘Apple Tart’ and a ‘Chocolate & Olive Oil Mousse’. Whilst one was light the other was on the heavy side but both were fabulous! The rich chocolate mousse was cut by a drizzle of olive oil, a dash of sea salt and a dollop of crème fraiche, plus there was a smidgen of caramel – it was all dangerously moreish and absolutely meant to be shared!
Our Café Cecilia experience was faultless, not only was the food fantastic, staff were friendly and efficient, plus the atmosphere was fun and energetic – a perfect combo. We’ll be returning sooner rather than later… did I mention that they also serve an incredibly good gin martini?!..
Core by Clare Smyth, Notting Hill, W11
July 2024
Fine dining is one of life’s pleasures, and last week eating out at ‘Core by Clare Smyth’ was no exception. Yes, it was an expensive pleasure but for those special occasions it’s worth the dent it puts in your wallet! Despite its expense, the demand for reservations is high and securing a table is no easy feat. After struggling myself, I realised I would have to book online exactly one minute after midnight, three months in advance when the new reservations opened; once I’d secured a table I must admit to feeling rather smug! Nick and I had eaten at Core twice before, however, since our last visit there had been Covid and Smyth had won her third Michelin star. Our previous dinners had been a ‘foodies dream’ and I was very much looking forward to seeing how, with a third star, Core could possibly improve as our previous visits had been nigh on perfect!
Housed in an elegant townhouse in the heart of Notting Hill, Core, with its smart exterior, is impressive; there’s definitely an air of exclusivity about it. However, any intimidation you feel dissolves as you step inside; the atmosphere is warm and welcoming, not at all stuffy. On entering there is a small cocktail lounge where you can enjoy a pre-dinner drink (it’s also possible to simply enjoy a cocktail and snacks without eating in the restaurant). This cocktail lounge is a new addition since we last visited and is a wonderful improvement, making the entrance warmer and more relaxed. If you’re fortunate to have a dinner reservation you’re taken through to the inner sanctum; passing by the glass-partitioned kitchen where if you’re lucky, like us, you’ll receive a welcoming wave from Clare herself – a great touch! The dining room is pure elegance; creamy panelled walls, velvet dining chairs and sleek white-topped wooden tables – although there aren’t white tablecloths (my soft spot) these tables are the modern alternative and look beautiful.
Eating at Core is without doubt pure theatre and once seated at our table our ‘show’ began; every dish is presented as a mini-drama. The first ‘drama’ was the canapes; a mini chicken ‘taco’ and a gougère were balanced on a piece of moss-covered wood whilst a smoked lobster roll was presented under a glass cloche which was gently lifted to allow wisps of smoke to entice the taste buds – the lobster roll was the winner here! The first course of our ‘Core Classics’ tasting menu (there’s also a ‘Core Seasons’ menu), was ‘Isle of Harris Scallop Tartare’. Presented in its shell, nestled within a bed of wildflowers, the top half was dramatically lifted off to reveal diced pieces of scallop in a sea vegetable consommé – it was deliciously well balanced; the sweetness of the fresh scallop was countered by the subtly salty broth. Symth, who is originally from County Antrim in Northern Ireland, takes a lot of her inspiration from the flavours of her childhood and our next course, ‘Potatoe and Roe’, was her play on the potato dishes she grew up with. Wow, what a play it was. Who knew a potato tasted so good – there was a hint of salt and vinegar (from the chip shop memory?!), a touch of smoke (a fireside memory?!) and the most wonderful buttery beurre blanc sauce (good enough for any jacket potato!). Next was ‘Roasted Cod with Morecambe Bay Shrimps, Swiss Chard & Brown Butter’. It goes without saying that the fish was cooked perfectly, but it was the sweetness of the shrimp balanced by the bitterness of the chard and the rich velvety brown butter sauce that brought this piece of fish to life. Our fourth course was our first meat course. This was again inspired by her childhood; ‘Lamb Carrot’, was a very modern take on an Irish stew. Before even tasting this dish you had to admire the presentation; the ‘melt-in-your-mouth’ braised lamb was hidden under the slivers of sweet carrot carefully arranged in the shape of a carrot. The richness of this dish was cut by the contemporary tang of sheep’s milk yoghurt whilst on the side there was a roll stuffed with more lamb which was a spin on the Irish dumpling – it was incredibly moreish. Next up was ‘Duck, Cherry, Almond, Beetroot & Timut Pepper’, this was a stunning dish, theatrically presented with a spritz of the oil of Timut pepper which has a wonderfully aromatic scent similar to that of Sichuan pepper but more refined. It was a plate that excited all the senses – a joy to look at, exciting to smell and exquisite to taste! We then moved on to the desserts. First was ‘Core Apple’ a beautifully glazed apple-shaped mousse with caramelized pieces of apple in its centre – the tart-tasting mousse was cut beautifully by the sweet caramelized apple; it had all the flavours of a sophisticated toffee apple! Our second dessert was ‘Wild Strawberry Meringue & Lemon Verbena’, a wonderfully refreshing dessert in which the sweetness the of powdery meringue was complemented by the lemony verbena and the fragrant wild strawberries.
At the end of this show-stopping dinner, as we enjoyed our ‘petit fours’ (dessert wine-infused jellies and a bite-sized chocolate tart), we were already dreaming of returning to enjoy the ‘Core Seasons’ tasting menu. Then of course reality hit and the bill arrived. Yes, it was expensive, but this was a treat that we will remember for a very long time… and we will be saving our pennies to return!..
Lisbon
April 2024
I visited Lisbon last week; like most city breaks tend to be, it was pretty exhausting but hugely rewarding. I particularly loved seeing the Azulejo tiles; the ‘Igreja de Sao Vincente de Fora’ is a must-see while the ‘Museo Nacional del Azulejo’ which is housed in an old convent is a hidden gem and I couldn’t not be impressed by the ‘Monsteiro do Jeróimos’! Naturally, in addition to sightseeing, it was the food which interested me and I arrived for our four-night stay with a list of restaurants (all pre-booked!). Before our trip, I had researched extensively our restaurant choices. I wanted to try places which had a modern vibe but which still reflected the traditional flavours of Portuguese cooking – a rounded taste of the vibrant, modern city. Of course, it’s always going to be ‘trial and error’, and although there were a few that I wouldn’t return to, I discovered four restaurants which I would recommend, plus I’ve added a couple of additional tasting tips…
“Casual Dining with Traditional Roots…”
This restaurant was my choice for our first evening. I wanted a more casual start to our Lisbon culinary adventure and it helped that this restaurant was a stone’s throw from where we were staying. Principe Real is one of the trendiest most visited districts so you will find tourists dining here (they’re difficult to escape in Lisbon!), but despite this, we felt that Faz Frio had a good local vibe. The dining room is separated into little booths which gives this lively restaurant an intimate atmosphere. The tables are small and you’re seated on stalls, therefore, this isn’t the type of restaurant where you’ll be relaxing into the night, but hey, this is Lisbon and there’s lots to see so you don’t want to get too comfortable! The food is based on a traditional Portuguese menu but with a twist of modern flavours. The service is quick – straightaway, before even reading the menu, we were offered bread and olives; it’s a tradition in many local Portuguese restaurants to place these on the tables but be aware that you will be charged for them so only accept if you want them. We refrained and moved on to the real menu… For our starters we shared the wonderful ‘Brás de Trufa & Cogumelos do Bosque’, this traditional dish was a delicious mix of straw-cut fried potatoes and gently cooked eggs with truffle and wild mushrooms – it was incredibly moreish and very good. We also shared ‘Carré de Borrego com Puré de Ervilhas e Pistachio’ which were tender lamb cutlets with a rich pea and pistachio puree, the sweetness of the puree was a good complement to the tasty lamb. For our main courses, there was ‘Naco Grelhado & Chimichurri’, a tasty Beef Steak served simply with Chimichurri and salt flakes. Plus the ‘Camarão Tigre com Arroz de Lima & Citronela’ which was the most expensive thing on the menu but deservedly so, the tiger shrimp was a lot larger than I had expected, it was more like a small lobster and tasted divine; seeped in a lemony bisque sauce with lemongrass rice on the side. Finally, we shared desert – the traditional ‘Pudim Abade de Priscos’ a velvety, crème caramel which is apparently cooked with ham (later strained off!) and port, both intensify the caramel flavour – it was so delicious that I forgot to take a photo! Whilst I wouldn’t necessarily traipse across the city to eat at Faz Frio, I would recommend it if you’re in the vicinity either for lunch or dinner. The service is friendly and the atmosphere buzzing. With some memorable dishes, eating here on our first evening was a great introduction to Portuguese cuisine.
“Portuguese ‘Farm to Table’…”
Prado Mercearia is a wine bar serving small sharing plates. I had wanted to have dinner in their main restaurant, Prado, but I couldn’t get a reservation despite trying before leaving London. So, I decided the next best thing might be lunch at their wine bar; it was so good that we returned for again for lunch before leaving! Prado Merceraria can be found on the corner of a backstreet in the Baixa district. We had visited Sao Jorge castle and Igrega de Sao Vincente de Fora in the morning and afterwards it was easy to pass by this nearby wine bar for a late lunch without a reservation. It’s a light, airy space and on the day we visited it was particularly warm so all the doors were open, giving the dining room a welcoming, chilled atmosphere. The staff are very friendly and passionate about the Portuguese wines they serve beside the tapas plates. The menu concentrates on Portuguese seasonal and fresh ingredients – their by-line is ‘Farm to Prado’. From the very first plate we shared, the quality of the produce shined through, the ‘Green Asparagus & Alioli’ although a simple dish was incredibly flavoursome – exactly like all asparagus should be but often not. It was chargrilled and dusted with grated lemon and cut by a salty aioli – perfection. ‘Cured Mackerel & White Bean Purée’, was served with subtly pickled carrot and onion which complemented the mackerel and the creamy purée beautifully, it’s the type of dish that shouts for some bread to mop up the sauce! Finally with its intense fresh flavours, the ‘Tuna, Mustards & Green Asparagus Sauce’ was my favourite dish, but all the plates were winners. For dessert we chose ‘Dolce de Leche Flan’, made with sweet caramelized condensed milk and served with a generous sprinkling of flaky salt – incredibly good and very moreish! It was a wonderful lunch, hence our return, and I’m now very keen to go back to Lisbon to try their main restaurant, Prado, but I’ll be making sure I book well in advance!..
“Fine Dining; Portuguese Style with French Flair”
This restaurant was my ‘fine dining’ option. A gastronomic menu inspired by French cuisine with a touch of Portuguese. But, this was by no means a stuffy fine dining affair, the small dining room (with just more or less 12 tables) shares its space with the kitchen – everyone has a birds-eye view of the chefs at their work. There’s a lovely informal atmosphere; despite its minimal modern décor the space is warm and welcoming and after a day sightseeing, surrounded by tourists, entering this restaurant really did feel like a haven. After enjoying their amuse-bouche treats we moved on to our starters; a delicious ‘Foie Gras Mi Cuit & Pear’ plus ‘Piglet, Wild Mushrooms & Tartar Sauce’ which was a wonderful pork and herb terrine with a slightly sweet crust cut by a delicate tartar sauce. Next, we shared their signature dish, ‘Oven-baked Rice & Scarlet Shrimp’. It was the signature dish for good reason; the rice was rich with a delicate flavour of tomato, yet it was the juices from the heads of the shrimp, which we were encouraged to mash into the rice, that lifted the dish to higher realms – it was divine and the shrimp was some of the sweetest I’ve tasted. Desserts were the ‘icing on the cake’… a ‘Lemon Tartelette’ a little like a lemon meringue pie – tart and sweet, while the ‘piece de resistance’ was the ‘Hazelnut Soufflé’, light as a cloud, topped with caramelized hazelnuts, a perfect end to a perfect meal. Each dish was presented by the chefs with calm pride, it was a wonderful intimate experience and one which was incredibly well-priced for the quality and standard of cooking.
“Trendy Tapas Seafood Adventure”
If you happen to be googling the ‘best restaurants in Lisbon’, ‘A Cevicheria’ will definitely pop up on your screen. It’s the current ‘darling’ of Instagram… but please don’t let me put you off! We almost didn’t visit as they don’t take reservations – a pet hate of mine is queuing for a table! However, on our last day before leaving for the airport, we decided to give ‘A Cevicheria’ a go, making sure we were first in line when they opened at noon. I am so glad we did, as this restaurant deserves the hype. A Cevicheria is all about fresh, flavoursome fish dishes inspired by the traditional Peruvian dish, Ceviche, with of course, a touch of Portuguese style. Entering the restaurant and seeing the huge foam octopus hanging from the ceiling there is no escaping the fact that fish is the main event here. With the ‘Salsa’ music playing in the background, the atmosphere is upbeat and very trendy… particularly after you’ve had one of their trademark Pisco Sours. And yes, that’s exactly how we started our last meal in Lisbon, with a lemony Pisco Sour! Then we dived into the menu ordering a number of dishes to share… First up was ‘Caustia de Lavaganie e Gamba’ which were little balls of potato with lobster and prawn. Bursting with flavour they left us eager to try our next dish which was their signature ‘Ceviche Puro’, made from white fish with sweet potato purée, red onion and seaweed, it was again, a dish which exploded with flavour; the lime juice ‘cooked’ fish was cut by the sweetness of the potato whilst the red onion and seaweed intensified the flavours of the dish. ‘Tiradito de Barriga de Atum e Maracuiá’ was sashimi cut tuna with a wonderful lime and passionfruit sauce, not only was it colourful but very tasty. Our final savoury dish was ‘Anticucho de Vieira e Milho Baby’ which were skewers of scallops wrapped in bacon, this was the one dish that didn’t work for me – I found that the bacon (and the touch of chilli) overpowered the sweet scallop. Finally dessert, ‘Suspiro Limeño’ was a wonderful take on the Dulche Leche Flan which you find on a lot of the Portuguese menus, this one was completely different and better for it. Surrounded by a lime sorbet and dressed in meringue, the rich caramel flavour of the ‘flan’ was cut by a sharp citrus tang – it was wonderful! Our lunch was a great end to our short break in Lisbon – I plan to order more ‘ceviche’ dishes on my next visit!.. (To avoid the queues arrive early for lunch or dinner!)
A Few More Lisbon Tasting Tips…
Fancy a cocktail?.. ‘Pavilhão Chines’ is a fantastic place for cocktails, better still it’s just around the corner from three of my restaurant choices (above)! This isn’t one of those bars where you have to fight for space at the bar, it’s a more gentrified experience with cocktails served to guests at their tables. It’s a very exclusive affair, from the street you wouldn’t even realise it’s a bar; the doors are closed and there is no sign advertising what’s behind them, but if you look carefully there’s a doorbell – just ring on it and ‘voilà’ the door opens and a waiter shows you to a table. The interior is wonderful, it’s rather Victorian in style with chandeliers and velvet chairs. However, it’s the walls that catch your eye, lined with glass cabinets, they are crammed with vintage curiosities – china tea sets fight for space with dolls and action figures – it’s all a bit mad. And then there is the menu with absolutely every cocktail you can imagine – what’s not to like?!..
Breakfast/ Brunch?.. ‘Seagull Method Café’, yes, I know the name is terrible and not exactly Portuguese but believe me this is a great spot for breakfast if you’re in the vicinity of Barrio Alto/ Principe Real. It can be found on a quiet corner on the back streets. Great, friendly service and a wonderful fresh menu.
Finally, the famous Pastesis de Nata… Naturally, I couldn’t do a foodie review of Lisbon without mentioning its Pastesis de Nata. It has to be said that my travelling companion, who was the chief taster of these little custard tarts, was most impressed by those from the famed ‘Pasteis de Belem’. However, those from ‘Manteigaria’ (there are a couple of stores dotted around Lisbon) were also extremely good!..
March 2024
Eating out nearly always makes me smile and my recent experience at newly opened Josephine Bouchon was no exception; I was smiling like a Cheshire Cat! Of course, it helped that this was a (belated) Mother’s Day treat so Felix was paying, however, even without that pleasure it would have been a memorable meal and is so far, my favourite meal of 2024…
Owner, Claude Bosi, is famed for ‘Bibendum’, his Michelin-starred fine dining restaurant (see my review here!), and more recently for restaurants ‘Brooklands and ‘Socca’. All three are very much ‘special occasion’ affairs which will leave a significant dent in your wallet, but with his latest offering, Bosi has taken a completely new direction. Josephine Bouchon is very much a classic bistro, a neighbourhood-style restaurant with a focus on flavours and dishes from Bosi’s home town of Lyon.
As soon as we entered the dining room I had a good feeling; the interior was typically ‘French bistro’ – Bordeaux-coloured leather banquettes, half-linen curtains at the windows, white-clothed tables, walls crowded with vintage prints and a ‘humming’ atmosphere. This atmosphere was no doubt helped by the French approach to serving the house wine – simply choose your colour and a bottle is left on your table, then at the end of the meal the sommelier, armed with a ruler, measures the number of glasses you’ve indulged – obviously when the bottle is in front of you it’s difficult to stop at just one glass! Seated at our table, with a glass of the aforementioned house wine, I was already feeling very content but when I saw the menu with its classic French dishes I was in heaven!.. To start with there was the most delicious ‘Cheese Souffle’, it was typically French – lashings of cheese and butter, wonderfully rich yet surprisingly light. The ‘Steak Tartare’ was seasoned to perfection with a subtle kick of cornichons and herbs. The main courses that followed did not disappoint, ‘Vol-au-vent a la Lyonnaise’ was a crisp puff pastry pie with chicken and mushroom, a joyous, creamy affair. Whilst ‘Onglet à l’échalote’, was an onglet steak served with a rich red wine and shallot sauce – classic and delicious. The ‘piece de resistance’ was the ‘Gratin Dauphinoise’ – hey, who can say ‘no’ to more cream! Finally, desserts, ‘Choux à la crème Chantilly’, a light puff of choux pastry with airy Chantilly cream and shards of chocolate, a French classic which was executed brilliantly. I chose the ‘Iced Nougat Parfait’, sweet and creamy, it was cut by the sharp flavour of a fresh raspberry coulis; it was a divine end to a spectacular meal.
Josephine Bouchon is one of those restaurants, provided you love French food (who doesn’t?!), that wraps you in a warm hug. Classic and incredibly well-executed food is served with professionalism yet with a friendly neighbourhood style that will have you going back time and time again!..
*Since writing this review we have returned to Josephine, it was good but not quite as impressive as our initial visit. The service was a little haphazard on the busy Saturday evening on which we visited and the Dauphinoise potato, their signature dish, was dry (they recognised this and kindly removed it from our bill). Despite these little gripes we will return as overall the food was excellent!
February 2024
During the dreary days of January and early February, I often have to force myself to venture out to dinner and when I do I often seek the comfort of restaurants that I’ve already tried, tested and thus reviewed – hence the lack of my reviews recently. There have been a couple of new places that I’ve tried but they were all rather disappointing so didn’t inspire me to take ‘pen to paper’. In fact, I was beginning to think I’d lost my knack for finding new, good restaurants but then, thankfully, Nick came to my rescue. Last weekend he surprised me with lunch at a new Italian restaurant, ‘Dalla’.
Dalla can be found in Hackney. Of course, we all know that these days Hackney is ‘very on trend’ but as we were navigating our way to Dalla it felt as if we were on the grittiest side of this east-end postcode and I was beginning to question Nick’s choice. However, I then spotted Dalla on a street corner. With its half-curtained windows and fresh, simple exterior, it looked very inviting, and stepping through its front door was a revelation – a complete contrast to the grey world outside. It’s obvious that everything in its tiny dining room has been curated with thought. The interior has an understated elegant, yet homely style whilst the warm welcome from the staff leaves you with no doubt that this is a friendly neighbourhood joint.
Snugly seated at our table, we relaxed into the atmosphere, I was particularly pleased to see that they had their tiny kitchen open onto the dining room; I do love seeing chefs at work and I had a prime view of the chef plating up the dishes. The short, concise menu is rather like the interior, the flavours are elegant yet homely – this is refined Italian food but it hasn’t forgotten its roots. I started with ‘Whipped Salt Cod with Roasted Polenta’, the salt cod was probably the creamiest and most delicious I have tasted, and served with the charred polenta slices it was a fantastic antipasti course. Nick ordered the ‘Tagliatelle with Venison Ragu’, the homemade pasta was wonderfully light – the perfect companion to the rich meaty ragu. We then moved on to our main courses, I chose ‘Stuffed Guinea Fowl with Wild Chicory’, the guinea fowl was beautifully moist whilst the chicory stuffing with its slightly bitter taste complemented the sweet meat and its rich gravy. Nick couldn’t resist the special of the day which was a ‘Sirloin Steak with Minestra Nera’. It was a simple dish but done well, a quality cut of meat served with minestra nera which is an Italian leafy vegetable a little like cavalo nero that was served simply stirred-fried with olive oil and garlic. Both of our main course dishes were large portions and with hindsight, we wish we had decided to share just one between us and instead have an extra antipasti dish (the frittata with balsamic vinegar looked good, as did the artichokes with ricotta!). Despite feeling rather stuffed we, of course, had room for dessert. Nick had to try their ‘Tiramasu’ which was again a generous portion – and very good. I opted for a lighter dessert, ‘Spiced Poach Pear’- delicately spiced it was the perfect end to a wonderful meal.
Leaving the cosy dining room of Dalla we were quickly transported back to reality. When enjoying our meal I had half imagined being in Italy but unfortunately, we didn’t walk out onto a little side street in Florence, instead Hackney greeted us! However one shouldn’t complain, as how lucky we are to have this lovely little restaurant in London!
November 2023
I must admit to being a little late to the ‘Noble Rot’ party. Since its first restaurant opened in 2015, Noble Rot has been a celebrated name on the London restaurant scene; I finally joined the celebration in 2021 after eating at their Bloomsbury branch (scroll down for my review!). There are now a trio of Noble Rots, the aforementioned, original Bloomsbury base, plus one in Soho and, more recently, a spot in Shepherd Market, Mayfair.
Shepherd Market is one of those little enclaves within our chaotic city which have a village-like atmosphere, albeit a rather lively one as it’s just a stone’s throw from Piccadilly. In all honesty, there isn’t much there apart from restaurants and pubs; blink and you could miss it, however, I rather like cutting down the alley from Piccadilly and feeling like I’ve stepped into a slice of London’s past. These days I particularly feel the need to do so, knowing that I’ll find restaurants such as ‘Kitty Fishers’ (scroll down for my review!) and, now, Noble Rot Mayfair. Despite being the ‘newby’ on the block, Noble Rot Mayfair doesn’t appear to be; housed in the old premises of a pub with large ground-floor windows and a dark green frontage it has an ‘olde-worlde’ style. It’s true that all of the Noble Rots have this traditional feel, however, they each have their very own style, and the Mayfair branch feels slightly more grown-up than the other two, a little more ‘dashing’. Arriving there on a freezing Friday evening, I was pleased to be greeted by a warm, friendly interior with an atmosphere which was verging on the celebratory. There was a lot of laughter and a clinking of glasses, all done in the best possible taste – this establishment has a definite up-market feel about it, perhaps it’s the Mayfair postcode?! It’s difficult to visit any Noble Rot without admiring its extensive wine list and the Mayfair one is no exception, it features many fantastic wines that are available by the glass thanks to the ‘coravin’ system. Then of course there’s the food, which is very ‘Noble Rot’ – French-inspired dishes with a modern-English edge, but in true Mayfair style the menu of this newest addition seems a touch more elegant and indulgent...
For our first courses there was a ‘Duck Terrine & Earl Grey Prunes’; a very tasty, meaty terrine cut beautifully by the subtly sweet prunes. There was also ‘Warm Smoked Eel, Potato & Avruga Caviar’, as expected this was a rich and, yes, indulgent, dish – wonderfully salty, smoky and creamy! Moving on to main courses I couldn’t resist the ‘Roast Ayanhoe Park Venison, Quince, Salsify & Delica Pumpkin’, it was a good choice, there was the venison which was cooked to perfection plus the delicate sweetness of the pumpkin and quince both balanced by the salsify; my only complaint was that there could have been a little more ‘jus’. ‘Cornish Cod, Vin Jaune & Cauliflower Mushroom’ was another creamy dish, the perfectly cooked cod was topped with an impressive ‘cauliflower mushroom’ – it was a first for us and a tasty one! Finally, the desserts ‘Sauternes Crème Caramel’ – was a ‘wow’ dish, simply delicious! Meanwhile, ‘Chocolate Sorbet, Sea Salt & Olive Oil’ – was simplicity at its very best; let’s face it anything seasoned with the best salt and olive oil has got to be a winner and this one had chocolate – need I say more!..
The evening was a definite success, this Mayfair establishment is my new favourite ‘Noble Rot’ and one I am hoping to return to soon with friends… I would suggest you follow suit!..
October 2023
My list of ‘to visit’ restaurants is never-ending, it includes Michelin-starred ‘Restaurant Story’ by Tom Sellers. It’s particularly pricey, one for a special occasion, so for the moment it’s staying on the list, however, when I heard that he’d opened a more casual affair, I couldn’t resist…
Story Cellar is a Parisian-inspired rotisserie-style restaurant which can be found on one of the little cobbled streets around Seven Dials in Covent Garden (you could almost be forgiven for thinking you’re in the Marais!). Walking into the restaurant the first thing I noticed was the line of rotisserie grills – chicken takes centre stage here. We almost sat at the counter in front of the aforementioned grills but then decided it might be a little too hot(!) so opted for seats at the low counter in front of the window; which although wasn’t good for watching the chefs was a great position for people watching! I immediately liked the atmosphere, it was relaxed and informal but the service was attentive and professional – this was the ‘Tom Sellers’ effect, having Michelin stars he knows a thing or two about running restaurants! The menu is instantly accessible, in a bistro style that has something for everyone and is well priced; yes, you could definitely rack up a steep bill if you took the ‘steak’ route but there are also a couple of pasta dishes, grilled pork or of course that rotisserie chicken. We chose the latter route, we were here for a simple supper, especially for the chicken. I had read about the chicken before our visit so was already sold, apparently, they are brined for three hours and then poached in bacon stock before finally being finished on the rotisserie – it’s slow cooking at its best. We decided to jump straight into the main courses, naturally, I ordered the half rotisserie chicken which is served with French fries and a house salad whilst Nick ordered the Pork Cassoulet, the aim was to share both of these dishes. The chicken was served glazed with its rich roasting juices. The meat was incredibly tender, falling easily off the bone – the meaty flavours were intense and moreish, while partnered with the French fries and house salad it was a dish which was the epitome of perfection. I should add that the French fries were not your average French fries, they were seriously good – hot, crisp and potatoey whilst the salad was not only wonderfully fresh but exceptionally well dressed. It was so tasty that I must admit that I found it hard to share with Nick!.. But his Pork Cassoulet was also particularly good. It was a ‘deconstructed’ cassoulet and better for it; perfectly grilled, sliced pork was served on a stew of creamy beans, it was all very flavoursome. The portions were generous and despite not having starters we were both rather full, however, we managed to find room for dessert! We chose the ‘Soft Serve, Almond & Dill’, a strange but fantastic combination of creamy almond milk soft serve ice cream with a dill sauce – who could have thought that dill would make such a wonderful sauce – certainly not ‘Mr Whippy’! Plus there was a lemon tart, it had the thinnest crust with a rich lemony filling and a caramelised top, simple yet stunning – any French bistro would have been proud.
We came away feeling elated at having had such a delicious meal, it was undoubtedly the best rotisserie chicken we’ve ever had and we felt rather satisfied that our bill (which included a couple of cocktails and a glass of wine) came to around £65 a head – which for quality food in central London is nigh on impossible to beat. We will be back and I would urge you to go if only to try the chicken!..
September 2023
(SADLY ELINE HAS NOW CLOSED – SUCH A SHAME!)
We had two very different dining experiences last week. Our first dinner was to celebrate Felix’s 23rd birthday so we chose a fashionable central London restaurant which apart from being ‘Instagrammable’ has a reputation for good food. Unfortunately the restaurant, ‘Fallow’, was a huge disappointment; although the starters were promising the main courses and desserts were underwhelming, while the service was chaotic and the bill was hefty. We came away with that bitter taste of being ‘ripped off’; more fool us for believing the ‘Hype’! In contrast the following evening Nick and I ate at ‘Eline’, an unassuming restaurant which proves that sometimes less is more…
Eline can be found in a quiet corner of Hoxton, its modern dining room with its Scandi-vibes has a calming atmosphere. Nothing is over fancy, everything is done with measured style including the food; the menu is small yet sophisticated. We started with a little snack with a couple of cocktails, ‘Panisse & Harissa’ were light and moreish. I then opted for the ‘Fig & Fried Artichoke, Ricotta & Hazelnut’ which was an elegant, simple starter in which every element was wonderfully fresh. Nick chose the ‘Crab Bisque, Prawn & Brown Crab Toast’, this was a stand-out dish – the tasty prawn and brown crab paste was sandwiched between the thinnest slices of toast, it was seriously good (the ultimate snack?!..). Moving on to our main courses, ‘Cod en Croute, Barigoule Fennel & Hollandaise’, was beautifully cooked cod wrapped in greens within a light pastry crust and served with subtly pickled fennel, it was delicious. There was also ‘Venison, Girolles & Roasted Tomato’, the venison was complemented perfectly by the sweetness of the tomato and the freshness of the girolles. Finally desserts, ‘Roast Plum, Vanilla Ice Cream & Nut Crumble’ – a deconstructed subtle crumble which allowed the ‘new season’ plum to sing with its natural flavour. However, it was the ‘Orange Almond Cake, Chocolate & Coffee Ice Cream’ that was the winning treat – what a combination! I feared the chocolate and coffee would overpower the orange but instead, they complemented each other gloriously!
In a world of ‘Hype’ Eline is refreshingly honest, it delivers exactly what it promises and at a price that offers fantastic value (£42 for two courses/ £50 for three). This is a restaurant that deserves to be supported – it’s a keeper.
‘My Corner of Italy’…
The Tuscan/Ligurian Borders…
September 2023
I’m not normally one to make spontaneous decisions, but just over twenty years ago that’s exactly what Nick and I did. Having holidayed in Italy we returned with the dream of buying a little Italian bolt hole and three months later we were owners of a small apartment in a medieval village in the foothills of the Italian Apennines. Fate is a funny thing and looking back I think that it actually found us rather than the other way round. Despite the riskiness of our spontaneity, it’s something that has continued to give us much joy over the years. Other than the wonderful family memories, it’s offered us the chance to become acquainted with another culture, made us new friends and encouraged my love for the Italian language. And it has, of course, fuelled my love for Italian food – we spend a lot of our time eating out when in ‘our’ corner of Italy. So following my recent Italian break, I thought it was about time that I shared a small piece of my very special corner with you. There are quite a few restaurants which we return to year in and year out but ‘Ottone’ and ‘Locanda di Bruno’ are my particular favourites
Ottone can be found in Sarzana which is just north of Pisa on the Ligurian/Tuscan border. The town has been described as ‘quietly spectacular’ which is a perfect description; it has a fortress and a piazza yet doesn’t attract droves of tourists, which is a relief when like us you’re always seeking the ‘true’ Italian experience. Instead, you’ll find ‘real’ Italians going about their daily errands and on any given summer’s evening the little streets fill with families taking a ‘passeggiata’, browsing the numerous antiques shops, a ‘gelato’ in hand.
Since first stumbling on Ottone just over twenty years ago, Nick and I have become loyal customers, returning again and again for its wonderful dishes; Ottone serves a fish menu with traditional Italian roots yet with an inventive twist. When we first visited, chef/proprietors Remo and Lucia had just recently opened their restaurant on a corner of Piazza Matteotti. Over the years we have seen their restaurant grow in popularity and it’s now undoubtedly one of Sarzanna’s best. In the early days, we can remember the toys of their daughter strewn around the bottom of the garden where we dined – now she is their multilingual front-of-house! Our surroundings are definitely more elegant these days and the service is slicker, but their dishes remain as delicious as ever.
When we visited recently we both started with our favourite dishes which have remained on their menu for as long as we can remember. Nick favours the ‘Crudo di Pesce e Crostacei’, a plate of the freshest raw fish and shellfish, whilst I adore the ‘Gamberi su Cipolla Rossa’, prawns served with pickled red onions – the sweet/sour flavour of the onions is divine with the lightly poached prawns. Moving on to our main courses there was ‘Pappa al Pomodoro e Astice’, you may be familiar with this traditional thick Tuscan soup of tomato and bread but at Ottone they take it a step further and serve it with lobster, the combination is exquisite! We also chose ‘Filetto di Rombo Chiodato in Padella’, fillets of turbot served with basil and pine nuts, it was a simple dish which was cooked to perfection and tasted superb. Desserts were ‘Flambé di Pesci Accompagnato con Gelato Artigianale’; peaches flambéed in a light liqueur and served with the creamiest vanilla ice cream. There were also the freshest green figs caramelized and served with a mascarpone cream, again simple but stunning. Both desserts were the perfect end to a delicious dinner on a hot summer evening!
Locanda di Bruno, Pietrasanta, Tuscany
Locanda di Bruno is a ten-minute drive from the elegant town of Pietrasanta. When I’m in Italy the quintessential evening is ‘aperitivi’ in Pietrasanta then on to dinner at Locanda di Bruno. Pietrasanta is a lovely medieval town which is renowned for its art and sculpture. Along its pretty streets you’ll come across art galleries and workshops whilst dotted around you’ll see permanent works of art and temporary installations of modern sculpture. The main square, ‘Piazza Duomo’, is stunning… and a great setting for an aperitivo before heading off to Locanda di Bruno!..
Like Ottone, we’ve been regular customers at Locanda di Bruno for almost twenty years. Despite being slightly off the beaten track it attracts a smart clientele from Pietrasanta and beyond; in the winter they crowd into its old stone dining room and in the summer spread out onto the pretty courtyard. The menu changes seasonally – it’s a simple Tuscan affair with elegant rather than rustic overtones; the flavours of the dishes are clean and sophisticated. There are a choice of dishes either from the ‘terra’ (earth) or the ‘mare’ (sea). It was a particularly hot summer evening when we visited recently so we chose fish dishes but I should point out that their steak with roast potatoes and their ravioli with ragù are worth a detour! We started with ‘Lasagnette di Bruno’, ribbons of flat pasta with seafood and a touch of tomato – it was a simple yet refined dish. Likewise the ‘Riso alla Pescatora’ was served with finesse; risotto simply cooked with fish stock, squid, prawn and ‘arselle’ (arselle are popular locally, they are like clams only smaller), it was a tasty dish with well-balanced flavours. For our main courses, there was ‘Baccala alla Griglia’, salt cod simply grilled with cannellini beans, the cod was wonderful with its subtle saltiness whilst my dish ‘Catalana di Scampi e Gamberi’, langoustines and prawns served on a bed of crunchy crudites (carrot, fennel, spring onion and celery) was light and fresh – the sweetness of the shellfish was divine! Finally desserts, I always choose the ‘Torta di Ricotta’ which is served warm, it is incredibly light and is dotted with the sweetness of raisins. Nick chose the creamy vanilla semifreddo which is served with chunks of chocolate and nuts – wonderful! As always our dinner did not disappoint. I should add that Locanda di Bruno serves some fantastic Italian wines. Stefano, the restaurant’s owner, is very knowledgeable and is always happy to point us in the right direction, it seems a shame not to enjoy them just because we’re driving so more often than not we book a room at the B&B which happens to be in the old stone house above the restaurant!.. Francesca and Enrico’s beautiful home (L’Arcadia) offers simple traditional Tuscan rooms, so from the restaurant, all you need to do is walk upstairs to bed!… Perfect!
August 2023
When organising an evening out with friends, I often dread the question of “where shall we eat?”, as living in London we almost have too many restaurants to choose from; choice can be a bad thing! So just recently when we made a date with friends and the topic of ‘where to go?’ came up, I was more than happy to let them choose. They suggested ‘Paradise’, a Sri Lankan restaurant in Soho which they raved about. Paradise had been on my radar as since eating at Kolamba, another Sri Lankan restaurant (see my review here!), I’d had my eye on restaurants with a similar cuisine. However, I was a little sceptical about Paradise as I’d heard its food was uncompromisingly spicy, even on its website it admits to having a ‘fiery island accent’. Not being keen on eye-watering spicy food I had up until now given it a wide berth but as they say, nothing ventured nothing gained!..
Paradise is in the chaotic heart of Soho; its small, grey-toned, dimly lit interior has a cool rather clubby feel, it’s not the type of place you’d take your grandparents. Being in the know, our friends had booked the booth at the back of the restaurant which is a slightly calmer corner. Perusing the menu, I must admit to feeling a little lost, the dishes are Paradise’s take on Sri Lankan home-style cooking however with the likes of curries with ‘hand-dived Orkney scallops and Brixham crab’, it was obvious that this wasn’t going to be your average home-cooked fare. Fortunately, there were four of us so we made the decision to order a lot of dishes – the trial and error approach! On ordering I mentioned to our waiter that I didn’t have a high spice threshold, he seemed unfazed, saying that he would serve me some coconut yoghurt on the side(!) and that there was only one dish I should avoid – ‘Devilled Prawns, Malu-Miris Chilli Capsicum’. Like a moth to a flame, Nick and my friends proceeded to order this! Other than this fiery dish, we ordered around seven plates to share. We started with ‘Ulundu-vadai Dahl Doughnuts with Beetroot and Coconut Chutney and Whipped Sheep’s Ricotta’, these little doughnuts were wonderfully crispy on the outside with the comforting softness of warmly spiced lentils on the inside; with the fresh chutney they were the perfect little snack and offered a glimpse of the intricate spices that the meal would reveal. Next up were ‘Grilled Ceylonese-Spiced Prawns, Seaweed Butter & Mango Chutney’, no these weren’t ‘those’ prawns, these charred beauties were delicately spiced with the most wonderfully salted butter sauce with the fresh tang of mango – they were very moreish! There was also a ‘Southern Style Dhal’ unsurprisingly this wasn’t your average dhal, it was spiced with among other things lemongrass, cinnamon, turmeric and mustard seeds but the ‘icing on the cake’ was its crispy kale topping – it really was extraordinarily delicious, dare I say it, the best dahl I can remember tasting. And so the meal progressed, each dish revealing the inventive use of spices and no, I didn’t have to dive for the coconut yoghurt to rescue my tongue! The ‘Scallops with Crab Kiri-Hodi Curry’ was a stand-out dish, the tangy sweetness of apple elevated the whole plate – it was these unusual twists of flavour that surprised and excited the palate. There was also ‘Turbot, Southern-Style Mango and Lobster Curry’, the fish was cooked to perfection with a crispy skin and the creamy coconut curried sauce was warmly spiced with a subtle sweetness from the mango. I particularly enjoyed the ‘Grilled Arrack & Soy Dry Aged Sirloin Steak’ which was served with a spiced peanut and bone marrow curry sauce – it’s not often you have a standout piece of steak in an Indian restaurant, but this I discovered was the beauty of Paradise, the quality of the produce they use is apparent in all their dishes. Finally, there were of course those very hot spicy prawns, and yes they were fiery – far too fiery for me but Nick and our friends enjoyed them, with that coconut yoghurt!…
Paradise isn’t any old Sri Lankan restaurant, it’s an exotic dining experience with traditional dishes that are cooked with flair. The flavours are clean, punchy and innovative. So how did it compare with Kolamba, the other Sri Lankan restaurant I reviewed last year? In all honesty, you can’t compare them as they are definitely different but both are very good in their own right. Kolamba with its street-style snacks and traditional curries is a more casual affair whilst Paradise is more sophisticated. So for a Sri Lankan day out in London, I would have lunch at Kolamba and dinner at Paradise – did I also mention that Paradise has a fantastic cocktail list!..
August 2023
I think that most of us would agree that whilst hugely rewarding city breaks can be exhausting! I was reminded of that just recently when I went to Amsterdam for just two nights with my sister. Before going we did masses of research and ended up with a tight schedule which we tirelessly followed! One of the things that I always spend a lot of time researching is the restaurants. There is nothing worst, in my opinion, than wasting precious time eating in a bad restaurant. To get to the heart of a city, to really feel its pulse, is to taste its food at its best – and if possible away from the tourist track. So after much deliberation, I decided on two restaurants for our two Dutch dinners…
Our first dinner was a disaster, ok I’m probably exaggerating but let’s just say it was a disappointment – food so-so, atmosphere poor and service uninterested. So I was feeling rather anxious about the second restaurant…
In fact the following evening didn’t get off to a great start as on arrival at ‘Rijsel’ we were told they couldn’t find my reservation (later I realised this was my mistake!) and that there were no tables. I was gutted as on entering the restaurant I was excited to feel the buzz of happy diners (mostly Dutch). Perhaps, sensing my disappointment and disgruntlement they offered us a table an hour later, which with hindsight we were very lucky to have bagged. Fortunately, there was a ‘Brown Cafe’ just around the corner where we could pick up an aperitif whilst we waited. If you’ve visited Amsterdam before you’ll be familiar with these traditional bars which are a cross between a pub and a café, so our hour wasn’t wasted as it allowed us to immerse ourselves in a little more Dutch tradition! Returning to Rijsel, we rejoiced at having a table; the dining room has a modern industrial feel and with its open kitchen it feels relaxed and welcoming. We hungrily eyed the food that our fellow diners were tucking into and noticed that the portions were pretty large so we decided not to order starters, however, now that I’m writing this I regret that decision! The menu is a nod to French-Flemish cooking; no-nonsense dishes are simply prepared with honest flavours. For our main courses we chose ‘Spring chicken with Ratatouille’ and ‘Veal Cutlet with Morels Sauce’. The chicken was a whole poussin (I did mention that portions were large!), beautifully tender and roasted to perfection – there is a good reason for it being their signature dish. The veal was probably the best veal chop I’ve had – served sliced off the bone with a full-flavoured morel sauce and on a bed of delicately pickled white cabbage, it was fantastic. I should also mention the crispy roast potatoes with aioli that we ordered on the side, they were utterly delicious – I would have happily eaten just these! Desserts were a ‘Clafoutis with Cherries’, which was cooked to order and was wonderfully fresh and light, and ‘Marquise au Chocolate with Amarena Cherries’ which was beautifully rich with a hint of liqueur running through the cherries and custard to cut the chocolate.
This was the Amsterdam I had been looking for – Rijsel delivered a ‘foodie’ memory I could take home! There are many reasons we travel and this restaurant is definitely one of them. On my return when Nick asked me about our trip, the first thing I said was “I’ve found a restaurant that you would love… when do you want to go to Amsterdam?!”…
The Sportsman, Seasalter, Kent
July, 2023
We took a trip down memory lane the other day…
Nick grew up around Canterbury, so feeling nostalgic he fancied a drive around the villages of his childhood. Some years ago, before his mum passed away, we would often drive down to this area to take her out for lunch. One of our favourite haunts was the Sportsman in Seasalter and so our recent visit ended with lunch at this wonderful gastro pub which is widely acknowledged as one of the best in the UK.
I was pleased to discover that the Sportsman was just as scruffy as ever, despite serving food akin to ‘fine dining’ the interior is very ‘shabby-chic’ with mismatched wooden tables and paper napkins. Owing to its location in the middle of the marsh next door to the sea, the building is rather weather-beaten and I must admit that I often feel a bit ‘chilly’ seated in its airy open space; I always make sure I have an extra layer just in case, and on the breezy, wet summers day that we visited, I was happy I’d remembered my cardigan! But I must stress that its scruffy nature is very much part of its charm and of course, you’re here for the food – this is after all a gastro pub with a Michelin star!..
One thing that has changed since my last visit is that they now only serve a five-course tasting menu rather than à la carte. However, each course on this tasting menu has at least three options – so we were in fact spoilt for choice. We started with some little snacks and fresh bread which is served with home-churned butter and their very own ‘Seasalter salt’. For my next course, I chose ‘Cured Trout Fillet with Gooseberry Granita & Seaweed’, the freshness of the trout was beautifully complemented by the sharpness of the gooseberries – it was both delicate and satisfying. Nick enjoyed the ‘Poached Rock Oysters with Pickled Cucumber & Avruga Caviar’. For his next course Nick had the ‘Slip Sole Grilled in Esplette Butter’ – such a simple dish, but wonderfully executed – cooked to perfection with the subtly spiced butter, meanwhile, I enjoyed ‘Roast Seabass Fillet with Chorizo Sauce & Green Olive Tapenade’, it was a delicious plate and although the chorizo and tapenade are robust flavours they were balanced and didn’t overpower the delicate fish. Next up were our meat courses, ‘Roast Chicken with Truffle Cream Sauce & Girolles’ – what a pairing made in heaven, it was a fantastic dish! There was also ‘Charred Maple Cured Pork with Wholegrain Mustard Tartare, Cabbage Salad & Gooseberries’, flavours that again deserved each other; the slight sweetness of the pork, the crunch of crackling, the tang of mustard, not to mention the sharpness of those gooseberries (again!). Finally desserts, there was ‘Chocolate Mousse Cake with Raw Cream & Raspberries’, incredibly rich but moreish and ‘Raspberry Souffle with Raspberry Ripple Ice Cream – how could I not choose that?.. it was light and dreamy, a perfect end to a perfect lunch!
By the end of our meal, I was asking myself why we hadn’t returned sooner?.. as it’s worth speeding along the motorway from London for this quality of food. Incredibly chef-patron Stephen Harris is self-taught, but there is no lacking in the professionalism he demonstrates at the Sportsman and his passion for food and flavours is evident in every dish. The five-course tasting menu is a steal at just £80 a head and for this reason, getting a table can prove difficult, so make sure you book ahead!..
July 2023
The excuse for a celebration is always welcome, so Nick’s recent birthday was the perfect excuse for me to book a fancy restaurant. Simon Rogan has a number of fine dining restaurants in the UK and abroad, the most renowned being L’Enclume which we visited recently and were extremely impressed with (see my review here!). So, when I discovered that his restaurant Aulis was reopening in London following its refurbishment I knew it would make a great birthday treat!.. With space for just 12 diners, Aulis offers an exclusive chef’s table experience, it’s the ultimate ‘special occasion’ destination.
Aulis can be found in a hidden corner of Soho. Nick is rather knowledgeable about London restaurants (I learnt from the best!), so you can imagine my glee when he was totally baffled as I led him through the hectic streets of Soho. Normally he can guess the restaurant we’re heading for a good few streets away, but Aulis, having reopened just 5 weeks ago, was not on his radar! Escaping the frenzy of Soho was a relief; despite its surroundings, the interior of Aulis is the epitome of calm, a small but perfectly designed space which has the atmosphere of a private members club. Dinner reservations are for 7 pm and as guests arrive there is undoubtedly an excited vibe – the expectation of a very special dinner party!.. Cocktails were served in a tiny, plush lounge – we enjoyed their ‘Fig Leaf Martini’ – it was probably the best martini I’ve ever had, made from gin infused with fig leaves, it was remarkably fresh tasting and moreish, although I feared that more than one might have been dangerous! Canapés were served with our aperitifs – a tempting taste of the quality of food we would be having over the course of the evening; five wonderful mouthwatering morsels – stunning in both taste and presentation, the ‘Truffle Pudding’ with fermented black garlic was particularly memorable. This was just the beginning, the ‘pre-theatre’ event. For the real ‘show’ we and our fellow diners were taken to the adjoining room and seated around a large stone table, an island that faced a small open kitchen. Over the next couple of hours, we were wowed time and time again as the courses were seamlessly served with a short introduction; the chefs were more than happy to indulge in our questions and there was a feeling of camaraderie among the diners as we swooned over the food! Every dish seemed to be the new favourite as our taste buds continued to be spoilt. All the courses deserve a mention, but I fear that may bore you, so I have chosen to describe just three stand-out dishes… ‘Scallops’ with buttermilk and smoked pike perch, appeared as one large disc – I have never tasted such sweetness in a scallop, it was delicious and perfectly balanced by the smoked salty flavours of the pike perch. ‘West Coast Turbot’ was cooked to perfection and served with the lightest but creamiest sauce which had a subtle smoky flavour and was swirled through with the delicate freshness of lovage and courgette, it was both incredibly simple yet complex. In comparison ‘Hereford Beef’ had robust flavours – with artichoke vinegar and marrow bone which shocked the taste buds and had them crying out for more. Desserts didn’t disappoint, the ‘Strawberries with Buttermilk Custard’ was presented prettily, it was a shame to delve in, but I couldn’t resist(!), it was a fantastic take on strawberries and cream – who knew apple marigold leaves could be so very incredibly tasty – a citrusy- apple flavour that lifted the dish to higher realms.
The whole menu was incredibly good, it excited not only one’s taste buds but almost every other sense. It was a wonderful experience to have this quality of fine dining prepared in front of you and served with such care and pride. It was all about testing boundaries, exploring flavours and pushing against the norm. At £175 a head, whilst not by any means cheap, it was worth every penny and more – it’s an evening that I won’t forget anytime soon!..
June 2023
It was no surprise that I was recently eating out in Shoreditch, yes I know that the age range of the socialites in this neighbourhood is well below my ‘fifty something’ age, but many of the restaurants in this very ‘cool’ area are among the very best in London right now. I have to admit that it’s also rather rejuvenating to be surrounded by such a young and vibrant crowd – I just have to remember to not catch a glimpse of my ageing reflection in any of the nearby windows! But in all seriousness, it really is a very happening corner of London for any ‘foodie’… and Brat, with its Michelin star, is a restaurant that continues to draw a crowd on a daily basis.
It was a particularly hot evening when we visited and on entering the dining room with its open kitchen and wood-fired grills, I feared the dining room was going to be too hot and stuffy. However, the beauty of the room is that with its high ceilings it has a wonderful airy atmosphere and its large windows bathe the space with natural light. Despite its wooden panelled walls, it has a modern industrial feel; it’s a little rough around the edges – a bit ‘New York loft-style… and yes, without overusing the word, it’s ‘cool’! It’s also rather noisy, there is a constant hum of excited chatter as each table shouts to be heard over the other – the atmosphere is buzzing. We were visiting with friends and I was quite pleased to be seated at a table for four which was tucked in a corner so offered some relief from the ‘frisson’!
But forget the atmosphere, let’s talk about the food, and yes it deserves to be talked about! Owner/chef Tomos Parry takes his inspiration from the Basque region and apparently, there’s a touch of his Welsh heritage thrown in. The menu is a sharing affair, there is a choice of smaller dishes which would be ideal for couples or a solo diner, but to do the menu justice you’ll need at least three or four mouths so you can try a few dishes plus perhaps their signature dish, a whole turbot, which at £150 isn’t cheap but it feeds four people! Thankfully it wasn’t just Nick and I eating so as a table of four we were able to throw ourselves body and soul into the menu…
First up were a few of the smaller plates, we chose the ‘Grilled Anchovy Bread’, which was a wonderful puffed-up bread with charred edges and salty, buttery flavours. The ‘Chorizo Bites’ were simply the best chorizo I’ve tasted, so good that we greedily ordered another plate! ‘Spider Crab Toast’ were wonderful morsels of sweet crab with charred cabbage on toast – a wonderful take on a crab salad yet much more satisfying with its slightly smoked tang. ‘Mackerel with Grilled Cucumbers’ was an incredibly fresh dish with a delicious broth lifted by the chargrilled mackerel and slightly pickled chunks of cucumber. I was excited to try the seasonal ‘Asparagus with Fresh Cheese & Walnuts’ but it was the only dish of the evening that didn’t quite hit the spot, the flavours although fresh were a little underwhelming. Moving on to the main event, not content to have just the star dish (the Whole Turbot), we also ordered the ‘Hake ‘Pil Pil’ with Clams’, I’m very glad we did as I loved the soft, flaky hake in a velvety sauce with garlicky overtones surrounded by fresh herbs and salty clams. The ‘Whole Turbot’, was undeniably the star of the show, cooked on a wood-fired grill it was proudly presented to us by one of the chefs who explained how to enjoy the best of this meaty fish from its plump sweet cheeks and the rich, oily flesh around the collar, to its soft fillets and crispy fins – it was all delicious (not to mention the smoky roast potatoes on the side!). Finally, dessert… yes, we were rather stuffed but couldn’t say no to trying their ‘Burnt Cheesecake & Rhubarb’, a traditional Basque cheesecake perfectly complemented by tangy poached rhubarb. Interestingly though, it was the ‘Olive Oil Ice Cream with Strawberries’ which won my heart, on paper it didn’t necessarily sound striking, but believe olive oil ice cream is a dream; creamy and smooth with a slightly salty edge.
It may be true that Brat is a treat that is best shared with friends, but having said that, if you’re a couple or eating solo don’t miss out, order a few of those smaller plates and sit at the bar where it’s slightly quieter. Its menu will make you smile!..
(Apologies for the quality of the photos – I was so busy enjoying the company of friends I forgot to concentrate on the camera!..)
L’Enclume’ and ‘Rogan & Co’, Cartmel
May 2023
I had been promising myself a trip to the Lake District for some years, so when last year L’Enclume won its third Michelin Star I decided that it was definitely time to revisit this beautiful pocket of England… Finally, last weekend we packed our bags and headed up north – it’s a long drive, around six hours, but we were hoping it would be worth it!
Opened by chef, Simon Rogan, twenty years ago, L’Enclume can be found in the village of Cartmel on the edge of the Lake District. These days Cartmel is home not only to L’Enclume but also its more casual sibling, Rogan & Co, plus 16 of their guest rooms dotted around the village, one of which would be our home for three nights. Rooms are decorated with comfort in mind and spotlight local craftsmanship, in fact on entering the room I was excited to be greeted by wonderful upholstery designed by my friend who lives in nearby Kendal (check out her ‘Fabrics of the Lakes’ at Cable & Blake here!). It all felt very personal, elegant yet welcoming; the right side of cosy.
Having settled into our room it was time to discover our surroundings. With its 12th-century priory, traditional stone houses and a picturesque river running through it, Cartmel is the quintessential English village. A couple of narrow streets lead onto a small square which has no less than three pubs, it was in one of these that Nick and I had our first supper and met up with my aforementioned friend. It was the perfect start to a bank holiday weekend, plus the sun was shining!
We woke the following day refreshed after our long drive and ready to discover the Lakes. Breakfast was served in Rogan & Co, unsurprisingly it was rather special; it included porridge with a hint of whiskey and a caramelised sugar topping, devilled eggs and cinnamon buns! After this morning ‘meal’ were were ready to hit the road again, our drive would take us deep into the Lake District to Keswick from where we took the awe-inspiring route around Borrowdale which had plenty of stops for photo opportunities (click here for details of this incredible drive!). Every corner we turned was picture postcard perfect – wow, how lucky we are to live in such a beautiful country!
Returning to Cartmel we were relaxed from our breathtaking day and hungry for the ‘first course’ of our gastronomic getaway…
In the heart of Cartmel, Rogan & Co can be found in a 14th-century building beside the pretty River Eea. Despite its low ceilings and rustic exposed beams, the restaurant is modern and elegant – perfect for the relaxed, informal dining experience it offers. However, don’t be fooled, the attention to detail in both the presentation and the quality of the food is far from relaxed… Guests choose from a three-course menu which is centred around the finest produce sourced from the Lake District and uses ingredients predominately harvested from their own farm (more about that later!). Having perused the menu we were greeted with a range of amuse bouche which they referred to as ‘snacks’ but I feel that they were far too sophisticated to be called that! There was as ‘Whipped Cod’s Roe & Nori Tartlet’, ‘Parmesan Sable, Pickled Garlic & Spinach Cream’ and ‘Truffle Pudding, Pickled Walnut’, plus the most perfect mini brioche loaf. Then we were on to the ‘real’ menu, for my first course I chose ‘Chalk Stream Trout Cured in Pine, Wye Valley Asparagus’ – which was beautifully fresh and elegant – a perfect starter. Nick’s ‘Crispy Chicken Wing, Preserved Beans, Pickled Trompette’ was equally impressive, the chicken was perfectly crisped yet the meat was wonderfully tender served in a comforting creamy bean purée with pickled trompettes. Our main courses were stunning to look at and did not disappoint the tastebuds. ‘Herdwick Lamb, Creamed Potato, Farm Spinach, Wild Garlic’ was a wonderfully seasonal dish – we had spied lots of wild garlic amongst the hedgerows earlier that day and it was great to see it in this dish, it was difficult to imagine a fresher more appropriate dish. ‘Goosnargh Guniea Hen, Sweetcorn, Broccoli, Tarragon’, was perfectly balanced, the meat was tender with a touch of sweetness from the corn and the subtle flavour of tarragon. Desserts didn’t disappoint… ‘Dark Chocolate Fondant with Apple Marigold’ was mysteriously presented, the rich fondant was hidden under a light apple and marigold foam, it was a wonderfully rich surprise cut by the airy texture of the foam. Nick chose ‘Set Wraysholme Yogurt, Rhubarb, Sorrel’, the rhubarb was the star of this dessert, who could have known yoghurt could be so good? In fact, by the end of the meal, we were so impressed with the quality and presentation of our meal that we were left wondering how L’Enclume could compete…
..But before our final gastronomic treat, we still had a full day to enjoy the Lakes…
Last year I had seen the ‘Beatrix Potter’ exhibition at the V&A, which highlighted her incredible life and her love of the Lake District, so a visit to the Lakes would not have been complete without a visit to her old home, Hill Top Farm. When Potter died in 1943, she left Hill Top to the National Trust with the proviso that it be kept exactly as she left it, complete with her furniture and china; stepping into this tiny cottage is like stepping into the past, it’s a joy to visit.
Not far from Hill Top, there’s the car ferry which you can take across Lake Windermere; it offered us another viewpoint for seeing the Lakes before meandering along the little ‘Postman Pat’ lanes back to Cartmel…and L’Enclume!…
L’Enclume is French for ‘anvil’, which may seem a strange name for a restaurant until you realise that the restaurant is housed in the old premises of the village blacksmiths. Many of the building’s historic features have been retained and sit comfortably with the modern Scandi-style table settings – it’s all very slick. The beauty of this mix is that it gives it a ‘dressed down’ style, which makes this Michelin three-star restaurant feel enormously relaxed – there is no pretentiousness. The staff likewise are very welcoming, this is a gastronomic experience they want you to enjoy and remember. Seated at our tables we were handed an envelope, it contained our tasting menu which we were invited to open and peruse or to leave unopened and enjoy the courses as a surprise – Nick and I can never resist a surprise, so our envelope remained temptingly on the table! The tasting menu consisted of fifteen courses – yes fifteen! Normally when I review a restaurant I describe the dishes of each course, but fear not I’m not going to describe these fifteen courses, but highlight a few of our favourites…
As the courses unfolded, one of the things which hit me was the beauty of each and every course. The presentation was exquisite, more so than I have ever experienced. Every aspect was thought through from the cutlery and plates which reflected the restaurant’s past as a Blacksmith to the smallest edible flower placed perfectly on a dish. The freshness of the produce was electrifying – even the smallest kernel of sweetcorn sung with flavour. L’Enclume has its own twelve-acre farm with the aim of developing a menu which is truly traceable, it’s farm-to-table at its very best. Growers and chefs work side-by-side to create ingredients for use in both Rogan & Co and L’Enclume, but it is truly at L’Enclume that this farming philosophy shines through the elaborate layers of flavour they incorporate into the menu. ‘Boltardy Beetroot, Rosehip and Chalk Stream Trout Tart, Juices infused with Perilla’, had fantastically earthy flavours but with a subtle sweet and aniseed flavour from the rosehip and perilla – it was extremely sophisticated. ‘Raw Mackeral in Coal Oil, Noriko Kohlrabi and Marigold’, may not sound pretty but believe me was incredibly beautiful to look at and tasted fantastic, who knew that Marigold could add such a punch to a dish? ‘West Coast Turbot, Wye Valley Asparagus, Razor Clams, Pike Perch Roe’, was, it goes without saying, cooked to perfection but it was the layers of flavour from the salty broth that took the turbot to extraordinary levels. Before dessert, there was ‘Turnworth Cheese, Malt Crumb, Quince and Lemon Thyme’, what a palette cleanser it was! The creamy cheese was lifted by the malt crumb and a touch of citrus from the quince and lemon thyme – it was all so very fresh. ‘Yorkshire Rhubarb, Pumpkin Seed and Fig Leaf, Caramelised molasses, Oxalis’ was a piece of ‘sugared art’ whilst the signature dessert, ‘Anvil Carmel Mousse, Miso, Apple and Spruce’, was deservedly the ‘signature’ of L’Enclume – layers of sweet, salty deliciousness with a subtle hint of pine – so clever!
Our meal was choreographed to perfection from the waiting staff gliding around our table, delivering and describing the artfully prepared dishes with pride and enthusiasm to the layers of intense flavours and textures that the chefs (and growers) had designed. It was an experience that Nick and I feel fortunate to have had and one we will least forget. Yes, it cost a pretty penny, but what a show it was!..
March 2023
Let’s face it, Paris is a little too far to go for the evening, but I have discovered the next best thing. Dinner at Bouchon Racine. This little pocket of France has recently opened just up the road from Farringdon Station. It’s easy to miss the entrance which is beside a pub, then there’s a steep staircase to the first floor where the doors open into the restaurant and voila, who needs Eurostar!… Chef Henry Harris is no stranger to cooking French classics, having owned the restaurant ‘Racine’ in Knightsbridge which closed in 2015. Now the premises for the new ‘Bouchon Racine’ are in a slightly scruffier part of town but in my opinion, in a location more suited to the ‘bistro’ style – I ate at the former Racine and although the food was great I found the atmosphere on Brompton Rd slightly lacking (although I loved the velvet curtained entrance – very French!).
It was a cold and wet evening when we visited Bouchon Racine last week, the type when you’re in two minds about leaving the house but on the other hand, you need to eat. It’s fair to say we weren’t in the best mood, however entering the dining room at Bouchon Racine made our venture very much worth it. The atmosphere was truly welcoming, in fact, just about everyone seemed to be smiling, diners as well as the staff, which was a good sign. With its wooden floorboards, white tablecloths and candle-lit tables, the room had a warm French bistro style. As we perused the chalkboard menu, it was like being wrapped in a big hug; I adore the French classic dishes and this menu was ‘old school’ French, with the likes of escargot, fillet au poivre, boudin noir and steak tartare – needless to say this is not a good restaurant choice if you don’t love meat! Nick and I dived into the menu, ordering ‘Escargots alla Bourguinonne’, which were a dream with a wonderful earthy flavour cut by the garlicky sauce. ‘Herring, Pomme Al’Huile’ was a smoky-flavoured dish of cured herrings with crisp pickled carrots in fruity olive oil, it was very tasty although I thought the pickle could have been slightly more ‘pickled’ to balance the smoky flavour of the fish. The main courses left us very much smiling, ‘Pork Chop, Lentils, Parsley & Mustard Sauce’ was an incredibly tasty chop but it was the lentils in a creamy sauce that left me drooling – it was the type of dish that was perfect on a cold and rainy evening! ‘Rabbit, Mustard Sauce, Smoked Bacon’ was a sensational dish – my favourite. The Rabbit literally fell off the bone, it was tender and sweet, exactly how rabbit should taste but often doesn’t, whilst the mustard sauce was simply beautiful! Naturally, we ordered some chips on the side, these weren’t French-style frites but proper potato chips – they were fantastic, great for mopping up the sauces! Finally, dessert… ‘Crème Caramel’ – this could well be the best crème caramel I’ve ever had and with the Armagnac prune on the side it was even better! Whilst ‘Tarte Vaudoise’ was a cream tart which was a little like a custard tart but crispier and creamier – it was very good.
Bouchon Racine is the type of place that welcomes you with a smile, lots of character and huggable food. The ‘catch’ is that some of the dishes are rather pricey but you’ll still want to return again and again, I know I do… next time I’ve my heart set on trying the ‘Steak Tartare’ and ‘Fillet au Poivre’…
(SADLY LYLE’S HAS NOW CLOSED – SUCH A SHAME!)
February 2023
If you drive regularly in London you’ll know that it’s becoming increasingly ‘testing’, with a 20mph limit and unpopular LTN’s (grrr!) getting from A to B has never been more difficult. So before I had even eaten at ‘Lyle’s’ it was already in my good books as it’s right opposite Shoreditch station which is more or less a direct train journey from my doorstep! Of course, not driving meant that Nick and I could both indulge in a couple of drinks, so we were thrilled to find that Lyle’s is also a stones-throw from the ‘Seed Library’, a laid-back cocktail bar which is the perfect venue for pre-dinner cocktails. Our dinner at Lyle’s was off to I good start and I hadn’t even tasted the food(!), but thankfully the main event did not disappoint…
I’ll admit that although I like the buzz of this increasingly popular corner of London, Shoreditch is a little gritty. But fear not, Lyle’s is an oasis of calm. The interior is rather stark and industrial but it manages to pull off a warm, welcoming ambience. This stripped-back style perfectly complements the pared-back-fine-dining that chef, James Lowe, has become renowned for – Lyle’s has a Michelin star. Dinner is a seven-course tasting menu (al a carte is served at lunch), and on the evening that we visited the meal kicked off with ‘Oyster & Blood Orange’, which, with its citrus overtones was a wonderfully fresh and unusual pairing. There was also ‘Ox Heart & Black Garlic Toast’ – yes I know that on paper that doesn’t sound appetising, but believe me it was a deliciously sweet, savoury offering. Meanwhile ‘Chicory, Pear & Spenwood’ had classic flavours, the Spenwood cheese was creamy yet with the right balance of piquancy to make this dish a ‘cut above’. It was the following two courses that particularly thrilled us and demonstrated that Lowe’s cooking merited his accolades; ‘Celeriac, Alexandra & Lovage’ was a dream of dazzling fresh flavours – the herbs in the creamy sauce literally sung – I was almost tempted to lick the plate! ‘Scallop, Tema Artichokes & Preserved Lemon’ was my favourite dish of the evening, the sweetness of the scallops was subtly balanced by the lemony sauce. Next up was the main event, ‘Hereford Forerib, Pumpkin & Radicchio’, a beautifully tender piece of beef alongside the caramel flavours of pumpkin and bitterness of radicchio served in a salty broth, again it was a tasty, well-balanced dish. Finally dessert, ‘Rhubarb Parfait, Jelly & Oat Crumble’, creamy and tangy – doing justice to the season’s first crop of rhubarb. Our meal was utterly delicious, the intricate flavour combinations that worked effortlessly together proved that Lowe has undeniable talent. If I had to change one thing it would be the addition of a small pre-dessert, perhaps a sorbet, as it seemed that after the five course build-up to the main event, the beef, the meal finished rather abruptly with the dessert. This is a suggestion rather than a criticism. With food as good as this and service which was slick and unpretentious Nick and I will definitely return to Lyle’s, perhaps for lunch to try their al carte menu; I will be checking the train timetable soon!…
January 2023
We had a real treat last weekend, we were taken out to dinner by our son, Felix. I was a bit apprehensive when Felix mentioned he’d booked Artusi, an Italian restaurant in nearby Peckham, as I had eaten there some years ago and had been rather disappointed. I’m not very forgiving of bad restaurant experiences, perhaps I should be more open to giving them a second chance, but when you live in London there are just too many other restaurants waiting to be tried. However, since that single experience over 7 years ago, I’ve continued to hear wonderful things about Artusi. So, it was on my list to return to, I had just never gotten around to it; it’s not the type of place you can pop along to at the last minute as it seems others have heard how good it is and you need a reservation!
Artusi can be found in Bellenden Road, a gentrified corner of Peckham, in fact, it’s neighbours with my favourite Thai restaurant, ‘The Begging Bowl’ (review here!). It has a simple interior with white walls, school-style chairs and a menu scrawled on a blackboard, it is nevertheless welcoming and it was particularly appreciated by us last week on a freezing January evening. On entering we were greeted by a friendly waitress who enthusiastically explained the short Italian-inspired menu and the enticing list of Italian aperitivi. I couldn’t resist starting with an espresso martini and I have to say it was one of the best I’ve had in a longtime. What a great start, I was hopeful that I may have a review on my hands!… Artusi is well-regarded for its homemade pasta, so both Nick and Felix chose pasta dishes as their starters. ‘Casarecce, Braised Cuttlefish, Harissa & Parsley’ borrowed spicy flavours from Sicily to produce a rich, unctuous sauce, whilst ‘Spinach and Potato Gnocchi, Brown Butter & Sage’, was gloriously light – both dishes got the thumbs up. Meanwhile, I opted for the ‘Chestnut Pancake, Taleggio, Carrots & Kale’, I have had these pancakes in Italy, they are particularly popular in the Lunigiana region. I love the sweetness of the chestnut flour and these were some of the finest I’ve tasted – lighter than I’ve had before but wonderfully matched by the creamy, melted taleggio. The main courses were ‘Haddock, Niccola Potatoes, Monk’s Beard & Winter Tomato’; the haddock was cooked to perfection with a crispy skin, whilst the simply quartered sweet tomatoes dressed in a vinaigrette with the bitter monk’s beard were a perfect balance. ‘Braised Rabbit Leg, Swede & Cavolo Nero’, came falling off the bone in a delicious white wine sauce; with the sweet swede it was almost overly rich, but the bitterness of the cavolo nero saved the day! Finally, desserts, ‘Carrot Cake & Walnuts’ which Nick and Felix shared and exclaimed at its moist lightness – unfortunately, being gluten-free, I couldn’t try this! The other option was ice cream which, as it was so cold outside, I couldn’t bring myself to order, so instead I had another of those delicious espresso martinis, not a bad choice(!), but I have since discovered that their homemade ice cream is revered – so I will definitely have to return on a warmer day!
Our meal at Artusi left me kicking myself – why on earth hadn’t I returned sooner?! It was a delicious, rounded meal, a real January treat. Although Artusi is essentially a neighbourhood restaurant it’s worth a trip even if you don’t live in the vicinity of Peckham. I urge you to make the detour, but do make sure you book!…
January 2023
Just recently Nick and I have tried a couple of new restaurants which I was hoping to share, but I’ve struggled to find one that ticked all the important boxes; not only is a restaurant’s food important but there’s also the ambience and service to think about. For example, one restaurant we visited stood out for its food, but the dining room was so cold that a lot of the diners, including us, were complaining – the interior designers had not thought through the consequences of the magnificently high ceilings. Admittedly we were dining on one of the coldest weekends that London had experienced in years but even the waitress agreed, in her elegant French accent, “it’s so cold that my nose hasn’t stopped running all day!”, they were words which I never imagined I’d hear a waitress utter! The same waitress suggested we return in the springtime when the weather was warmer, and yes, I may consider revisiting ‘Maison François’ in Mayfair as the food was good if somewhat pricey, however for the time being it doesn’t merit a review as I couldn’t recommend such an uncomfortably cold restaurant.
Fortunately, as luck would have it, just when I needed a ‘January kick–start’, last week I found a restaurant that ticked all my boxes and which was on my doorstep. ‘Wood and Water’ can be found in the heart of Brixton. Anyone who’s been over to Brixton lately will know that these days it’s very ‘on-trend’ with a lively vibe. So, whether or not you’re in the younger age bracket or, like Nick and I, over fifty-plus and in need of a youthful hit, it’s definitely a good area for a fun evening. The interior of ‘Wood and Water’ is soothingly low-lit, and has a moody, cool ambience with marble tables and velvet upholstery – it was just the type of cosy refuge that Nick and I needed last Saturday night when London was experiencing ‘monsoon-like’ rainstorms! There was a cool, R&B soundtrack playing, the type that you want to ‘Shazam’ (and yes, we did, the ‘Frankie Knuckles’ track will be turning up on one of my playlists!) – the atmosphere box was most definitely ticked! But it was the menu that was intriguing, ‘Wood and Water’ calls itself a ‘British restaurant with a Jamaican soul’. Its fusion cooking at its best– modern British meets West Indian. Being partial to West Indian food, I already had a good feeling about the menu and was to discover that the combination was one which really works. But before we started ordering the food we were easily navigated by our waiter to the cocktail menu (service was very good – another box ticked!). Cocktails are a big part of the menu, it’s actually possible to just pop in for a cocktail and nibbles at the small bar (duly noted!). With cocktails in hand and some very good ‘Plantain Chips’ on the side – these were super fresh and still warm – we moved on to our choices from the menu of small sharing plates…. There were ‘King Prawns, Scotch Bonnet & Cassava’, a wonderfully balanced dish – the prawns were meaty and fresh tasting with a zing from the chilli. ‘Ackee & Saltfish Pie’, was one of the best fish pies I’ve had in a long time, there was just the right level of chilli combined with the tasty salt fish – Nick exclaimed that he could eat it “all night long”, which was a great compliment! Alongside we had ‘Plantain, Butter Bean & Beetroot’, it’s subtle sweet flavour cut the spice and salt of the fish pie beautifully. ‘Duck Breast, Parsnip & Plum’ was a perfectly cooked dish, if I were being picky I would suggest it was a little on the sweet side – perhaps it would have been better with another vegetable instead of parsnip – but would I eat it again?… Yes! Finally, dessert was the ‘pièce de résistance’, a take on Baked Alaska; ‘Sweet Potato, Meringue, Rum and Ginger Ice Cream’ was simply delicious!
Not only is the food wonderful at ‘Wood and Water’, but its smart yet casual atmosphere with its trendy soundtrack, irresistible cocktails and friendly service makes it an attractive venue for all – a date night for two, a rendezvous with friends or a dinner for an older couple like Nick and I who simply need to feel rejuvenated!…
Mambow, Peckham, SE15 (now moved to Clapton; see note below)
October 2022
(‘Mawbow’ has moved from Peckham to Clapton, E5. Peckham’s loss is certainly Clapton’s gain!… Although I haven’t eaten at this new venue critics are raving about it…)
It’s not often that you find a piece of food heaven at the back of a clothes shop, but last Saturday I discovered Mambow! In the heart of Peckham, just opposite Peckham Rye station, Mambow can be found in ‘Market’, a shared workspace for independent professionals and the home to a few fashion and food outlets. Behind these fashion outlets Mambow serves up authentic Malaysian dishes. It’s a casual affair with just a handful of tables and counter-seating facing a tiny open kitchen, but the small menu delivers a powerful punch of perfectly-balanced flavours. Last weekend, seated at the aforementioned counter, I had the chance to see the food both being made and plated up, it was entertainment at its best; it’s quite astonishing how, from the compact galley kitchen, chef Abbey Lee manages to serve up food of such high quality.
The great thing about the menu is that it’s short enough to order, more or less, every dish to share between two – or rather Nick and I did, being greedy as always! To start with there was ‘Lor Bak’, a fabulous five-spice pork and prawn roll wrapped in crisp-fried layers of bean curd skin, rather like a sausage roll but much better. ‘Achar Awak’ were pickled vegetables, they were sweet and sour with a splendid spicy punch. There was also the evening’s special, ‘Crispy Cornflour Fried Chicken with Sambal Mayo’ – a fantastic show-stopping dish. Moving on we had the ‘Ikan Assam Padas’, a fish curry with tamarind and laska leaf, this was the hottest dish of the evening, but nevertheless delicious, the heat was bearable and rather moreish! My favourite dish was the ‘Black Pepper Curry Chicken’ made with Sarawak Black Peppercorns and red onion; the melt-in-your-mouth chicken literally fell off the bone whilst the peppery sauce managed to be subtle yet pleasingly complex. Finally, dessert was ‘Cendol’, with its green jelly noodles, sticky red aduki beans and shavings of coconut ice it was a wonderfully unusual dessert, sweet and cooling; a perfect end to an extremely good meal.
Mambow is one of those places that leaves you feeling quietly smug; it’s a real find and offers good value for money. So, if you know what’s good for you, get down to Peckham now and whilst you’re there pop upstairs to ‘Forza Wine Bar’ for a cocktail – they have a breathtaking roof terrace with incredible views over the city of London!…
Imad’s Syrian Kitchen, Soho, W1
September 2022
Reading about Imad’s Syrian Kitchen, the food sounded amazing, but it was the story behind the restaurant that really made me want to visit… Owner and chef, Imad Alarnab, came to London from Syria as a refugee in 2015. He had been a successful restauranteur in Damascus, but the Syrian war destroyed his enterprise and he was forced to leave to find a better life for his family. It was a perilous journey; after being smuggled in lorries he finally reached Calais and eventually the UK where he was given asylum. At first, he worked washing and selling cars, but he was a chef at heart and so started running supper clubs and pop-ups, and at the same time raised money for the charity ‘Choose Love’ that supports refugees. Later he crowdfunded a further £50,000 for his own permanent restaurant, Imad’s Syrian Kitchen. What a story of perseverance!… I needed to eat in this restaurant to at least acknowledge my respect for his incredible journey and determination. So when meeting a friend for lunch last week, it seemed the obvious choice…
Imad’s Syrian Kitchen is situated in Soho, just off Carnaby St in Kingley Court. For those of you who haven’t visited, Kingley Court is a three-story dining destination with 25 restaurants spread out over its floors, it offers food flavours from every corner of the globe. To be honest, with its hustle and bustle it’s not really my scene, so I was relieved to find Imad’s Syrian Kitchen in a quieter corner on the third floor. Imad’s has a bright, casual interior and a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere. The menu is easy to navigate, short and sweet. There are a few of the well-known Middle Eastern staples such as Hummus and Baba Ganoj (smoked aubergine), but I was there for something new… We started with ‘Mtuma’ (crushed new potatoes, garlic, chermoula and tahini yoghurt) which was extremely moreish – the type of thing you could happily eat alone for supper, it was wonderful. There was also ‘Daqet Bandura’ (heritage tomatoes, goats cheese and roasted fennel with dukka), I loved the freshness of the tomatoes, although they weren’t as sweet as I had hoped for (fault no doubt of the English weather!), they were saved by the goat’s cheese and the subtle spices – it’s easy to understand why dukka is the new darling of the spice world! The stand-out dish was the ‘Shaquaf’ (Grilled lamb skewers, marinated in sumac, olive and orange with sweet potato and roasted vegetable mash and sautéed greens). I’m salivating as I write this as this dish was absolutely delicious, subtly spiced to perfection – the lamb was superbly tender. To finish we shared the ‘Syrian Pistachio Ice Cream with ‘Candy Floss’, this was a Middle Eastern style ice cream instead of a creamy Italian style gelato, it was slightly glutinous and milky flavoured rather than having a strong pistachio taste however, the sweet ‘candyfloss’ topping was an inspired addition!
I had been a little concerned that Imad’s wouldn’t live up to my expectations, I wanted to love it before visiting simply for the incredible story behind the restaurant. I needn’t have worried as in fact the food was beyond my expectations, so much so that only a few days later I popped in again for lunch with Nick, who I knew would love its food. Unfortunately, the restaurant was closed for a private function, I was gutted, but we will be returning! Imad’s Syrian Kitchen is definitely a testament to the values of immigration – let us not forget!…
September 2022
If like me, you have lived in London for the past thirty years you’ll be familiar with the restaurant ‘Andrew Edmunds’. Having first opened in 1985 it’s a stalwart of Soho, serving a seasonal, modern British menu. With its cosy, candlelit interior it’s been voted London’s most romantic restaurant more times than not. But it’s not just for courting couples and with this in mind when we were deciding on where to go for a casual birthday celebration Andrew Edmunds seemed like the perfect choice (Felix was turning twenty-two; it only seems like yesterday when we were celebrating his 21st in style at ‘Five Fields’ – review here!).
Entering the 18th-century townhouse is always a joy, it’s a bit like stepping back in time. Yes it’s a bit cramped and rough around the edges, but that’s the point – it’s bistro style at its best. Then of course there’s the food; the hand-scrawled menu can’t help but please. On the evening of our visit, starters included ‘Burrata, Honeymoon Melon, Rocket & Tomato’, a delicious dish, its simplicity allowed the quality ingredients to shine. There was also ‘Confit of Duck, Chicory & House Vinaigrette’ which was the birthday treat that Felix had been hoping for – he loves duck and this confit had pleasing bittersweet flavours. Main courses were uncomplicated but nonetheless tasty; ‘Roast Pork Chop, Braised Swiss Chard & Anchovy’ was a well-balanced flavoursome dish, as was ‘Roast Leg of Lamb, Grezzina Courgette Scapece & Mint’ – the minty courgettes were particularly moreish. Meanwhile, Felix raved about the ‘Cod, Little Gem Lettuce, Roast Tomatoes & Aioli’ (I was more than happy at this point with our choice of restaurant for his celebration!). Desserts were a ‘Baked Cheesecake & Blackberry Compote’ – again Felix picked the winning dish, although we couldn’t complain about the ‘Buttermilk Pudding & Figs’, except that it was a little too much for one person to eat!
On leaving the restaurant Nick and I, as always, promised to come back sooner than later – thirty years or so after we first discovered Andrew Edmunds it still didn’t disappoint. The quality of its unpretentious food is as consistent as ever. So, if you haven’t already tried it, I suggest you add ‘Andrew Edmunds’ to your London restaurant list – it’s great for any occasion!…
July 2022
If you read my blogs, you will know that over the past few years my son, Felix, has been studying at York University. Of course, this has given Nick and me the perfect excuse to discover the many restaurants in York! It has an impressive restaurant scene and ‘Skosh’ is one of the more contemporary additions. Its name originates from the Japanese ‘sukoshi’, meaning ‘a small amount’, reflecting not only the small plates it serves but also the Japanese flavours that inspire its food. Skosh is a small restaurant and tables for dinner, particularly at the weekends, are prized, so you need to plan ahead. I finally got my act together and having booked well in advance managed to get a table. I was looking forward to seeing for myself why Skosh was putting York on the ‘foodie’ map….
On the evening we ate at Skosh we were particularly tired, having been out the evening before celebrating Felix’s graduation at Meltons (review here!) and having drunk more than our fair share of wine, not to mention the cocktails. Fortunately, Skosh’s contemporary dining room with its open kitchen had an energetic, buzzy atmosphere to keep us awake, plus they have a couple of house cocktails which worked as a good pick-me-up! On entering you’ll find that there is nothing fancy about Skosh, but as soon as the food starts to arrive at the table it becomes quite stunning! They recommend 5-6 plates to share; our first plate, ‘BBQ Spring Lamb Tartare’ was a fantastic start, the pea and mint were creatively lifted with a kick of wasabi – it was an outstanding dish. Equally good yet completely different was the delicate, fresh flavoured ‘Sashimi of Cornish Wild Brill with Fennel, Caviar, Yuzu Kosho’. Our tired, slightly hungover bodies were craving ‘carbs’ so the ‘Roast Jersey Royals – “chip shop curry”’ was a must on the menu and it didn’t disappoint, the “curry” sauce was an elegant, very tasty take on a dahl. ‘Grilled Duck Breast – Gooseberry, Elderflower & Fresh Green Peppercorns’, was a winning dish, my favourite of the evening, the tangy gooseberry complemented the duck beautifully, it was one of those dishes which you’d rather not share! Our other meat course was ‘Crispy Pork Belly with Watermelon, Peanut & Nam Pla’, which although tasty, didn’t quite deliver the punchy flavours I was expecting. Finally, dessert, just the one between us, as we were ready for our beds at this point, ‘Spice Bread Parfait with Cherry, Pistachio, Smoked Tea & Shiso’, was an unusual, but very delicious dessert!
Skosh undoubtedly merits its reputation for being York’s new hot spot; it’s casual dining at its finest. Felix has now graduated and returned home to London, but Nick and I are already planning to return soon to York – it’s easy to do a day trip from London; Skosh will be one of the restaurants we’ll be returning to enjoy – of course, I will be reserving a table in advance!…
Outlaw’s, Port Isaac, Cornwall
July 2022
Earlier this year there was news on the grapevine that Nathan Outlaw, chef and fish aficionado, was opening a guesthouse in Port Isaac. The small fishing village in Cornwall was already home to two of Outlaw’s Michelin-starred restaurants. The new guesthouse would offer a two-night ‘foodie retreat’ package; on one night visitors could eat at ‘Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen’ and on the other at ‘Outlaw’s New Road’. How could I resist?… I promptly booked the package for Nick’s birthday – any excuse! In my excitement at getting a reservation, I had forgotten just how long the car journey is from London to Cornwall, and I must admit that as the date of our visit approached I began to dread the 5-6 hour journey down to Port Isaac – could eating at these two restaurants really be worth that trip just for a weekend?!…
On arrival at the quaint, picturesque village of Port Isaac, any regrets very quickly disappeared, it felt like a world away from the city and straightaway we both felt relaxed by the change of scenery. It was a bonus that the UK was experiencing a heatwave, the skies were blue and the view out to sea was crystal clear. Outlaw’s Guest House is perched above Port Isaac, looking out along the coast towards Tintagel Castle, we were impressed by its relaxed, friendly atmosphere and home-from-home attitude. There’s an honesty bar for when they’re not around to make drinks and there are complimentary afternoon teas, which included specially made gluten-free scones and cakes for me; it really does feel that they go that ‘extra mile’ to make your stay enjoyable!
Having settled into our simple, but very comfortable room we strolled down to the port for the first instalment of our ‘foodie package’. Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen can be found in a tiny 15th-century fisherman’s cottage in the heart of Port Isaac. It’s the more casual of the two Outlaw restaurants, serving a fixed menu of small, original seafood plates. The menu noted ‘You shall have a fishy on a dishy…When the boat comes in…’ and indeed it’s the sea, fisherman and local growers that dictate their daily menu, everything is incredibly fresh. Before the dishes started to arrive we were treated to a couple of canapes, ‘Cods Roe on Brioche’ and ‘Crab on Rye’, they were the perfect complement to our house cocktails. These were followed by our first course of ‘Cured Bass Tostada, Tomato, Avocado & Chilli’, which was wonderfully fresh and light with just the right balance of chilli and tang from the pickled onions. Next up was ‘Spiced Ling, Fennel & Gherkin’, the ling which was wrapped in subtle curry spices, was delicious with the yoghurt dip and lightly pickled fennel and gherkin salad. ‘Lobster Dumpling & Sesame Toast’ was a clean, light dish to follow the spice of the Ling; it was clear to see that the menu was all about balancing the flavours to excite the taste buds. Indeed the ‘Monkfish Satay, Peanut & Lime’ was pure excitement, it had comforting flavours that thrilled. Equally, ‘Turbot On The Bone, Mint & Coriander Butter’, was exactly the right combination of fresh flavours that our taste buds needed after the sublime sweetness of the satay. Finally, the dessert was a zingy ‘Strawberry & Limoncello Parfait with Meringue’, it was an inspired choice to finish a fantastic meal.
The next morning we awoke ready for the next course of our ‘foodie retreat’… Breakfasts at Outlaws did not disappoint in addition to the homemade croissants, granola and fruit compotes (gooseberry was my favourite!), there was a choice of ‘Full English’ or ‘Kedgeree’. Having refuelled we drove to nearby Rock and hopped on the little ferry to Padstow to check out Rick Stein’s neck-of-the woods however, we were far too full to contemplate a lunch at one of his three establishments! Taking the ferry back from Padstow, we smugly agreed that we preferred the more tranquil ambience of ‘Port Isaac’. Next on our agenda was Tintagel with its ancient castle ruins, legends of King Arthur and infamous footbridge that visitors take to its little island. The views from Tintagel are phenomenal, breath taking and refreshing. So refreshing that we were now feeling peckish, so we made our way back to the comfort of Outlaw’s Guest House for the complimentary afternoon cream tea – leaving room for our dinner at ‘Outlaw’s New Road’…
Outlaw’s New Road is literally a ‘stones-throw’ across the road from Outlaw’s Guest House. Before crossing the road we enjoyed an aperitif on the guest house’s terrace with its incredible vista of the coast, we could just make out the Tintagel footbridge we had crossed earlier! Our second tasting dinner was a slightly more grown-up affair, the fish menu features classic, elegant flavours. To kick off the ‘fish show’ there was sweetly smoked trout with rye bread and a light crab salad. This was followed by ‘Raw Bass’, served with a beautifully light pea jus and a ‘Lobster Salad’, with chunks of lobster which were lightly dressed allowing them to sing with their full, fresh flavour. Next up was ‘Lobster Bisque’, which was incredibly flavoursome with the added surprise of a delicious piece of hake nestling under its surface. Equally good was ‘Mackerel’, served with the delicate, sweet crunch of kohlrabi. Finally, ‘Bass’ was served with a wonderful creamy wine sauce with gnocchi, broad beans and spinach; it goes without saying that it was a perfectly cooked piece of fish (the chefs at Outlaw’s definitely know a thing or two about fish!), its delicate flavour was perfectly matched by its accompaniments. Dessert was ‘80% Chocolate’, a fondant pudding with crème fraiche ice cream and a brandy snap. It was a rich, wonderfully executed dessert – a sublime end to a sensational meal.
Our stay at Outlaw’s Guest House and our meals at their restaurants exceeded our expectations. Both restaurants serve fish faultlessly, it was inspiring to see how the flavours evolved around each fish without overpowering its delicate taste. Of course, you don’t have to stay at Outlaw’s Guest House to eat at either restaurant, but if you want to be spoilt for a couple of nights it really is a great package. The staff at the guest house were particularly warm and friendly – they seemed genuinely invested in the business. On leaving I was presented with a ‘doggy bag’ of the gluten-free treats that I hadn’t managed to eat the day before – a ‘little something’ for the road trip; it’s these little extras that make all the difference and leave you wanting to return again and again!…
June 2022
Since it opened in Shoreditch just before Christmas, I’ve been meaning to the visit Italian restaurant, Manteca. I finally used the excuse of a lunch date with a friend to check it out a few weeks ago. I was duly impressed but felt that we hadn’t done the menu justice, so I decided to return promptly with Nick, who, with his healthy appetite, is the perfect partner for trying restaurants as it gives me the opportunity to order lots of dishes!…
Manteca can be found in a gritty, trendy corner of Shoreditch, an area which exudes energy – it’s the perfect location for this restaurant with its buzzing atmosphere. The open kitchen pulses at the heart of the restaurant and the dining room soaks up its chaotic spirit; they do have additional seating downstairs but I much preferred being seated upstairs with the action! Manteca concentrates on ‘nose-to-tail’ cooking, they even have their own in-house salumeria. It’s all about the quality of the produce. The simple sharing menu allows the food to sing, there are small plates and larger ‘main event’ dishes. To begin with Nick and I enjoyed a few of the smaller plates. ‘Sun Sweet Melon & Culatello’, was probably some of the best melon I’ve tasted in a long time, both here and in Italy, whilst the Culatello ham was wonderfully flavoursome – they were both undoubtedly quality ingredients! ‘Pig Skin Ragu’ was served with a puffed, crispy crackling, which could be dipped into the incredibly tasty ragu. The ragu is reason enough to visit the restaurant – it’s Italian home cooking at its very best. ‘Sea Bass Crudo’ was served with fermented cucumber, lemon and fennel and a beautifully rich olive oil, the flavours were fresh, clean and delicious. Manteca is particularly renowned for its hand-rolled pasta, this was another reason why it was important for me to have my side-kick, Nick, with me because being gluten-free I couldn’t try it. Nick assured me that the ‘Brown Crab Cacio e Pepe’ was incredibly good; the tonnarelli pasta was ‘al dente’ and the silky sauce perfectly complemented it. I must admit to having a sneaky spoonful of the sauce, it was divine, rather than a seafood flavour, the crab added an earthy, buttery robustness to the pasta. Moving on to the ‘main event’ dish, we chose the ‘Saddleback Pork Chop’ and ‘Grilled Greens with Salsa Rossa’. The pork was, without doubt, one of the best pork chops I’ve had, it was succulent with a wonderful wood-fired flavour, the grilled greens with the smoky slightly piquant salsa were particularly good on the side. Finally, desserts were a perfect end to a fabulous meal – a creamy ‘Zabaglione with Summer Fruits’ and a crumbly, moist ‘Cherry & Almond Cake’.
Manteca is one of those restaurants which feeds the soul and leaves you thinking of your return visit. I would recommend that you check it out at the soonest opportunity, just make sure you visit on an empty stomach as you will want to devour as many dishes on the menu as possible!…
The Ledbury, Notting Hill, W11
June 2022
Before Covid hit our shores, The Ledbury was my absolute favourite restaurant; having two Michelin stars it was rated among the top 50 restaurants in the world and was considered one of London’s very best. It was the restaurant where Nick and I would celebrate special occasions, it was our ‘go-to place’ for a treat. So, when just after the start of lockdown chef and owner of The Ledbury, Brett Graham, announced that he would be closing the restaurant, I was genuinely gutted; walking past the abandoned premises in Notting Hill just a year ago, I felt almost bereaved to see the neglected state of the once beautiful restaurant. However, joy of joys, at the beginning of the year there were rumours of a return, and by March the doors of The Ledbury were re-opened. Unsurprisingly it was nigh on possible to get a reservation, like us there were lots of guests who were dying to return (despite the cost!), but finally, we managed to get a table for last Saturday night…
Naturally, the hiatus has allowed Graham to rethink, and The Ledbury has been relaunched with a new interior which reflects a more modern approach. I will be the first to admit that I’m not good with change… I saw nothing wrong with the ‘old’ Ledbury’s interior, it was on the right side of formal, warm and intimate. So arriving on Saturday night to the new ‘sexier’ interior was a little disconcerting, admittedly it was very stylish, a bit more glam, but interestingly, the new furnishings had changed the acoustics of the room – it was noisier, which slightly niggled me. Previously, The Ledbury had been renowned for its front-of-house; the service was always incredibly polished, yet fantastically friendly – you were valued and spoilt. We were thus apprehensive as we knew that the restaurant manager had left and feared that this service wouldn’t be as we remembered it. Fortunately, there were a couple of familiar faces and the service was as good as ever; once we were settled at our table enjoying drinks and canapés, everything felt, almost, as good as ever.
Having ticked the boxes for the ambience, I was ready for the tasting menu. They only serve an eight-course tasting menu these days, but they are very flexible with dietary requirements – they had duly noted that I was gluten-free and one of the canapés had already been fantastically substituted. Our first course was ‘Cornish Crab, Cultured Cream & Frozen Citrus’, this was stunning, the crystals of citrus fruit beautifully lifted the crab, it was a delicate dish with subtle explosions of flavour. Equally impressive was ‘Hand Dived Scallop, Radish, Seaweed and Dashi’, it was a winning combination of the flavours – the sweetness of the scallops was matched by the salty dashi, I literally could have lifted the plate to my lips and drunk the delicious broth! The next dish, ‘Warm Hen’s Egg, Brassicas, Pigs Trotter & Truffle’, was a ‘blast from the past’, it was a signature dish that I remember from the ‘old’ Ledbury, yet slightly different. There were still the wonderful flavours of truffle, with the incredibly fresh egg yolk and the saltiness of pigs trotter but there was the addition of brassicas (a kale-type leaf) and perhaps less ‘ham’, I think I preferred the original version, but either way, it was still delicious. The following ‘Grilled Turbot, White Asparagus, Cods Roe Hollandaise & Sorrel’, was a perfectly cooked piece of fish, with a rich yet light sauce which had fresh lemony overtones with bursts of saltiness from the cods roe. Our fifth course was ‘Mushrooms from the Cabinet’, and yes there really is a mushroom cabinet which guests can peruse if they visit the bathrooms! Cultivated in the restaurant, they must be the freshest mushrooms you can taste – and yes this dish was very tasty, I particularly enjoyed the meaty ‘hen of the woods’ mushroom. Next up was ‘Suffolk Lamb, Caramelised Cream, Wild Garlic & Morel’, it was simply a beautifully cooked dish, with a wild garlic sauce and a crispy ‘potato cone’; both the flavours and textures were perfectly matched. The ‘Verjus Meringue, Kaffir Lime & Olive Oil’ which followed was one of my favourite dishes. After the richness of the preceding plates, this citrusy pre-dessert was fresh and stunning to the taste buds – wonderful! Finally, ‘Sweet Woodruff Tart, English Strawberry & Toasted Vanilla’ was a dessert which I didn’t have due to its gluten content – but Nick ate it very quickly which convinced me that it was one of the best desserts he’d had for some time! My dessert was equally thrilling, ‘Chocolate & Mint’, was a rich and fresh, balanced dessert.
So, the verdict – the ‘new’ Ledbury vs the ‘old’… Well, there is no denying that the food we had last Saturday night was luxurious and dazzling. There were stand-out dishes such as the crab and the scallops, together the dishes promise to regain The Ledbury those Michelin stars and take it back to the top of its game. I need to get over my sentimentality for the ‘old’ Ledbury and of course, the only way to do that is to return for another ‘special occasion’ by the end of the year…I’m already looking forward to it!… (I’ll let you know how it goes!)
The Elderflower, Lymington, The New Forest
June 2022
Whilst visiting The New Forest over the recent bank holiday we dined at The Elderflower restaurant in Lymington. We tried to book this restaurant last year, but due to the influx of reservations it received after being featured on BBC’s ‘Remarkable Places to Eat’, it was impossible to get a reservation. Things have calmed down a little since then, and we finally bagged a table for dinner. Chef Andrew Du Bourg has a good track record, having worked at London’s Square and Club Gascon, so I had high hopes for a delicious experience...
The restaurant is quaintly set on the cobbled street that meanders up to the high street from the small harbour. The low beamed dining room is simply but tastefully decorated. We dined with friends and to start the long bank holiday weekend in style we all enjoyed a cocktail – I chose the Lychee Martini which was excellent! We also ordered the wine pairing to complement our five-course tasting menu; yes, it was going to be an expensive evening!… The meal was kicked off by a ‘Mussel & Watercress Veloute’, it was a promising start, the salty flavours were nicely balanced and fresh. Next was ‘Cured Solent Bass’, this carpaccio of fish was delicious with wonderfully sweet tomato and crab emulsions, it was an explosion of flavours, so much so that the delicate Bass was almost overpowered, but the dish definitely excited the taste buds. This was followed by another fish dish, ‘Solent Skate Wing’, I must admit that I’m not overly keen on Skate, but this little morsel was beautifully cooked off the bone with an apple chowder, it was a very good, elegantly balanced dish. Our main dish, ‘Roast Suckling Pig’, was no less thrilling, the crackling encased pork was perfectly cooked. Finally, dessert was ‘Strawberry Celebration’, there was a lot going on in this dish, lavender parfait, black olive & liquorice and a basil ice cream, yet somehow the chef managed to pull it off; it was punchy and flavoursome.
The Elderflower is without doubt a restaurant that puts The New Forest on the UK’s culinary map. I very much enjoyed my meal; if I were to be critical, I would say that at times the flavours within each dish were overly complicated, and there was a little too much theatre. The service was very good, Marjolaine, the partner of the chef, was very entertaining as front of house, a real personality, although at times we did find her a little intrusive! The Elderflower is not necessarily fine dining by London standards, but I would imagine that the chef is on course for a Michelin star and if you’re in the vicinity, and can get a table, it’s definitely worth a detour…
Lutéce, Georgetown, Washington DC
May 2022
I was back in Washington DC last weekend. Since 2015 I have visited this city at least six times for medical reasons. It’s a long story, but in 2014 I was bitten by a tick and contracted Lyme disease (*see note below). After several, desperate months of searching, without luck, for a ‘Lyme literate’ doctor in the UK, we decided to go to America, where the understanding of Lyme is far more advanced. My doctor in Washington DC is incredible, it is through his understanding of Lyme and his antibiotic protocols that my immune system has learnt to control the bacteria and I can live a full and healthy life. Consequently, I know Washington DC quite well, although I must admit in the earlier days, restaurants were the last thing on my mind! Our recent visit was purely a means to touch base with my doctor, who I hadn’t seen since the start of the pandemic; I’m happy to say it was a very positive trip, particularly as I discovered a new restaurant to pass on to you!
The neighbourhood of Georgetown is DC’s oldest, and a favourite of mine. I love to ogle at the houses off of the main high street, in fact, renowned American cookbook writer, Julia Child once lived in one of the beautiful wooden framed houses here. Child was recognized for bringing French cuisine to the American public, so it seems fitting that just around the corner is Lutéce, a French-inspired restaurant.
I often find the atmosphere of restaurants in DC a little soulless, as they tend to be large and over air-conditioned; although the food may be good they lack atmosphere. Lutéce, breaks this mode, it’s very small and intimate, the atmosphere is relaxed – it’s the perfect backdrop for its modern French cuisine. On entering the restaurant on Sunday evening, glimpsing at the food on the neighbouring tables, I had a good feeling about Lutéce, particularly when I saw the waitress behind the tiny bar making up their signature cocktails. It was a good start!
We began with the ‘Steak Tartare, Fermented Chilli, Capers, Potato Chips’ – this was fantastic, seasoned to perfection, the best I’ve had in a long time, whilst ‘Broccolini, Burrata, Red Miso, Preserved Lemon’, was pieces of Burrata mixed with the broccolini and dressed with a hollandaise sauce, which was light and citrusy – it was deliciously fresh. Our main courses were no less thrilling, there was ‘Duck, Cauliflower, Fennel, Cherry’; the subtle sweetness of the cherry perfectly matched the breast of duck which was served with a rich, flavoursome confit. ‘Berkshire Pork, Spring Onions, Sauce Charcutiére’, was a tender pork chop which was well matched by the slightly tart sauce, I reminded myself that I must make this gherkin and mustard sauce at home! Often I find the size of the portions in America ridiculously big, and so I struggle to finish a meal but fortunately, at Lutéce the servings were generous but not overly – we were comfortably full and could still enjoy dessert…a delicious ‘Chocolate Ganache’, its rich sweetness was cut by a dash of salt, and equally good was ‘Cheese Tart, Rhubarb & Lemon Balm’.
As a tourist in a big city, Lutéce is the type of restaurant that makes you feel like a local, and I must admit that I felt rather smug about finding it! The food, atmosphere and service are exactly what you need after a long day trawling the countless museums and monuments of DC…but remember to book well in advance!
*To find out more about Lyme Disease visit Lyme Disease UK or feel free to contact me here.
May 2022
Don’t you just love it when you discover a great place by pure luck?!… Well, just recently when we visited the Newt (review below), this happened to us. The week before our visit, I was ‘googling’ the area and by chance discovered that in the village of Bruton, five minutes down the road from the Newt, there happened to be ‘Osip’, a Michelin starred restaurant!…
Osip is the type of restaurant where you instantly feel at home. Its small interior is simply but stylishly designed; white tiled walls contrast with open brickwork, whilst a duck-egg-blue banquette adds a shot of subtle colour. The atmosphere is relaxed and whilst the staff are very friendly they are also incredibly professional. It’s the attention to detail that creates the perfect ambience at Osip – even the crockery deserves a mention, yes, that’s right, the plates!… I was enamoured with the rough china on which the food was presented, its textures and shapes completed the dining experience perfectly.
Osip prides itself on being a farm-to-table restaurant, using ingredients that have been grown by themselves or their neighbours, thus ensuring that the food is incredibly fresh and in season. What arrives on its doorstep each morning is what it serves for lunch and dinner that same day. The set menu is served as a surprise, and what a wonderful surprise it was…
Before our first course we were presented with a selection of amuse bouche – ‘Farm Radishes with Whipped Sesame’, ‘Trout & Turnip Roll with Japanese Artichoke’, ‘Black Garlic and Togarashi’ – all very fresh and flavoursome. These were followed by the kick of a ‘Roasted Vegetable Tea with Burnt Garlic Oil’, this was a sweet and salty, beautifully balanced broth. Our next course, ‘Tokyo Turnip, Almond Praline and Ricotta’, was presented as a flower and was almost too stunning to eat; the flavours didn’t disappoint! ‘White Onion Royale, Broad Beans and Wild Garlic’, was a wonderful light foam and, although just a small interlude before our main course, it was packed with flavour; the white onion and wild garlic were beautifully balanced by the broad beans. Our meal had so far been outstanding, in terms of both flavour and presentation, so the main course had a lot to live up to… all I can say is ‘wow’, ‘Roast Chicken, Hen of the Woods, Bearnaise Chicken Sausage, Cider Mustard’, was a sublime dish, the ‘chicken sausage’ was something that I could happily eat for breakfast (lunch and dinner!). Finally, dessert, ‘Pump Street Chocolate Tart’; with its crisp pastry shell and rich chocolate mousse filling it was exactly how any good tart should be!
We left Osip dreaming of our return! It’s possible to stay at the neighbouring guest house, No.1 Bruton, so we are already planning another getaway. Failing that, a day trip from London by train is just about doable, allowing for a lunchtime visit…
A Hotel & Restaurant Review
May 2022
Last year, when we were in the midst of our second lockdown, Nick and I decided that we needed a ‘treat’ to look forward to. We had read positive reviews about the The Newt in Somerset, and hoping that in a year’s time the ‘covid situation’ would be better, we booked a stay for the May bank holiday. We had been looking forward to this treat for nigh on a year, so when we finally visited The Newt last weekend it definitely needed to impress us…
As we drove down the long, winding driveway, catching glimpses of Hadspen House, where we would be staying, we were duly impressed! Then, on entering our ‘Garden Room’ which overlooked the magnificent gardens, our breaths were literally taken away. Our room with its huge bay windows and terrace was full of light and beautifully appointed, it was I might add, probably the best room in the hotel and as I looked out on the view I really did feel like the ‘Lady of the Manor’!
What I hadn’t appreciated when we had booked The Newt, was the size of this enterprise, not only is it a country house hotel but also a working farm with huge public gardens. Rooms of the hotel are situated either at Hadspen House and in its stables or a half a mile down the road at the ‘Farmyard’. The Farmyard offers a very different hotel experience from Hadspen House, it is more relaxed and rustic, great for families and groups of friends who prefer a less formal country house escape. Rustic isn’t really my thing, so I was rather relieved that we had opted for a room at the main house, where I would be very content to be ‘Lady of the Manor’ for a couple of days! Hadspen House is a very attractive Georgian house which has been tastefully updated, the interiors have a contemporary edge, forget country house chintz, think elegant modern furnishings in muted colours – I loved the sage green and greys of our room.
Having settled in we decided to take a walk around ‘our’ estate. From the small private garden of the house, there is a gate that takes you into the extensive public gardens which are awe-inspiring. Hotel guests can take tours of the garden or, as we did, have a cyder tasting – The Newt makes its own cyder. It really is worth visiting the gardens simply as a day guest, the landscaping is phenomenal, however, despite the beauty of these gardens, I did feel relieved to return through the gate to the tranquillity of the hotel, it’s a little disconcerting to find the ‘general public’ around you when you’ve actually paid for a weekend getaway!.. Considering the cost of staying at The Newt, I had assumed that one is paying for exclusivity, but this isn’t necessarily the case. Fortunately, the spa is far from the public eye, so we escaped to the privacy of its beautiful heated indoor-outdoor pool and spa rooms!
Then of course it was time to eat, I must say that during our 3-night stay our days seemed to revolve around food – which is just as well as it is one of my favourite pastimes. The Newt prides itself on serving the freshest vegetables grown on its estate and certainly, the best of the dishes that we had during our stay were those based around these ingredients. Breakfast was served in the Botanical rooms, it was a memorable start to the day. The homemade granola, yoghurt and rhubarb compote were utterly delicious – I don’t think I’ve tasted yoghurt quite as creamy, whilst the rhubarb compote was perfectly tart and sweet at the same time. Then of course there were the various options for cooked breakfasts, all delicious – yes, we tried them all over our stay! Lunch and Dinner are offered at three restaurants over the estate, there is the aforementioned Botanical Rooms at Hadspen House, and also The Farmyard and the Garden Café…
We ate at the Farmyard Restaurant on our first evening. Guests at Hadspen House can drive themselves over in a buggy or staff can drive you – we opted for the latter, as I wasn’t sure we could be trusted to navigate our way home through the fields of sheep after a couple of cocktails and wine! The dining experience is more relaxed with a sharing menu. ‘Broccoli & Anchovy’, was wonderfully fresh with a touch of lemon and an addictive, salty anchovy aioli. The ‘Mullet with Spring Onion & Gremolata’, had well-matched flavours with the sweetness of the chargrilled onions and tart gremolata. Moving on to our main dishes there was the star of the evening ‘Whole Place, Brassicas and Burnt Lemon’, cooked to perfection, it was divine. The ‘Pork Chop, White Bean, Roast Onion & Thyme’ couldn’t match the deliciousness of the Plaice, and although the chop was quite tasty we found the white bean purée a little bland. As an extra dish, we ordered the ‘Jersey Royals, Hang Op & Wild Garlic’, I could have eaten the whole dish alone, the combination of salty potato and wild garlic was moreish! Finally, desserts; an ‘Apple Crumble & Custard’ and ‘Chocolate Mousse & Salted Caramel’ – both were the perfect end to a very good meal. It was a great start to our stay and we hoped that the food at the other two restaurants would follow suit…
The Botanical Rooms is a beautiful wood-panelled, formal dining room overlooking the grounds, there is also seating in the airier, more modern conservatory. We preferred to have dinner in the formal dining room (although at breakfast we enjoyed the light-filled conservatory). After our positive experience at the Farmyard, we had high hopes for our dinner at The Botanical Rooms. We started with ‘Chilled Broad Beans, Apple & Lovage Juice with Whipped Goats Curd’, a light dish with delicate flavours, and ‘Chalk Stream Trout with Chevril & Walnut Vinaigrette’, which was well cooked, but the flavours were overpowered by the vinaigrette. Main courses were, ‘Nettle Marinated Lamb with Asparagus, Anchovy, Garlic & Parsley’, the asparagus dressing lifted this dish beautifully, and ‘Pork, Turnip, Mustard & Pickled Greens’ which was very good but the pickled vegetables were too intense for the dish. Finally, for dessert there was a ‘Sweet Cicely & Strawberry Cheesecake’, which was deliciously delicate, and ‘Forced Rhubarb & Lemon Verbena Sorbet’, a fresh tasty dessert but the rhubarb was unable to shine through the strong lemon flavouring. The meal was enjoyable, both the setting and service were impeccable, but we were a little disappointed as the food lacked the balance of flavours it promised – it lacked that ‘something special’.
The atmosphere that a restaurant or hotel creates can be one of its most important attributes. Before our visit, we booked the Garden Café for Sunday Lunch, I probably would not have done so if I had been aware that it was in the ‘public gardens’. The Garden Café has, without doubt, an amazing view of the landscaped gardens and if I were visiting as a day guest I would have been more than happy to dine there. However, as a hotel guest, I feel that the atmosphere of this restaurant was not conducive to the hotel’s style, and I felt that it rather broke ‘my lady of the manor’ dream! For me, visiting a hotel such as The Newt is a form of escapism, you buy into the exclusivity of a country house. The Garden Café was a step too far into reality for me! The food was enjoyable, although doesn’t merit an in depth review; it was a tasty lunch in a restaurant with wonderful views and well priced at £25 for two courses.
In conclusion…
Our stay at The Newt was, without doubt, a beautiful experience, the room, with its views, was absolutely breathtaking. There is no denying the beauty of the grounds and the stylish interiors. I loved the atmosphere in the hotel, from breakfast in the Botanical Rooms to cocktails in the bar – I should mention that they not only do their own signature cocktails but are happy to make any you suggest, a real bonus for a ‘cocktail lover’ like myself! The service was impeccable and the staff were relaxed, friendly and genuine. However, The Newt has a fine balance to maintain; it sells itself as an exclusive country hotel escape and demands the high prices which go hand in hand with this, but at the same time, to fund its incredible grounds it has to open to the general public – two rather conflicting positions. I do feel that given the expense of a stay at The Newt (believe me, it’s a lot – a decision we made in the madness of lockdown!), I don’t think that it offers the exclusivity that some hotel guests, like myself, yearn. So, would I visit The Newt again?… Yes, but with so many other hotels to try I may be tempted to go elsewhere… or, of course, I could return to my number one hotel experience, Foxhill Manor (see my review here!).
Paris
April 2022
Last week I enjoyed a 24-hour, whistle-stop tour of Paris. Living in London, with Eurostar on my doorstep, this quick trip is very doable. Not only did I enjoy the sights and the spectacular spring sunshine (we really lucked out on the weather!), but savoured three fantastic restaurants which I am keen to recommend…
Straight from the train, having left our bags at our hotel, my sister, Michelle, and I kicked off our trip with lunch at Benoit…
Benoit is a favourite restaurant of mine, I have eaten here several times and it has never let me down. Walking into this restaurant there is no denying that you are in Paris – it’s an old school bistro with a quintessentially French interior; brass rails, red velvet banquettes and wood-panelled walls, and of course, beautifully pressed white linen table cloths. Benoit first opened in 1912 and it remained in the same family until 2005 when renowned chef and restauranteur, Alain Ducasse, became its new proprietor. Respecting its history, Ducasse has ensured that Benoit remains a traditional bistrot, albeit now with a Michelin star. The three-course set menu is a steal at 42 euros, otherwise, you can choose à la carte. Dishes range from classics such as Duck Ballotine, Escargots, Lamb Navarin, Cassoulet and Black Pudding.
Our lunch started with a glass of champagne (always a good decision when you’ve just arrived off an early morning Eurostar run!), we were then presented with the complimentary gougéres (cheese puffs), it’s worth visiting the restaurant just for these, plus bread and butter – the type you can only get in France! Moving on we enjoyed a ‘Pea Velouté’, followed by ‘Duck Parmentier with Braised Baby Gem Lettuce’ – this was superb; the rich, duck confit filling was topped by the creamiest purée of potato. Finally, there were desserts, a rich, creamy ‘Chocolate Mousse’ – my photo doesn’t do this justice, it was incredibly good! And an ‘Armagnac Savarin’, which is not to be missed – Armagnac is generously poured over slices of sponge and served with the lightest whipped cream! To end this wonderful lunch we were served freshly baked madeleines and petit fours, all included in the set price – it’s these little extras which take the whole experience at Benoit to a higher level. What a fantastic start this meal was to our trip both the service and food were impeccable, it would be difficult to beat…
After ambling around the Marais, and a quick freshen-up at our hotel, it was time for a cocktail overlooking the Place de Vosges (at Café Hugo) before dinner at nearby ‘Robert & Louise’…
Robert & Louise, 3rd Arrondissement
After our rich and luxurious lunch, I wanted a restaurant which was a little more low-key, and when I entered Robert & Louise, I knew I’d made the right choice. The interior has a cosy atmosphere with a ‘home-style’ vibe and super friendly staff. Opened in 1958 by Robert and Louise it is now run by their daughter, Pascale and her partner. The menu offers traditional, simple French cuisine which is mostly cooked over an open fireplace at the back of the restaurant. As we were shown our table, we walked past the aforementioned fireplace and I happened to notice steaks being grilled and escargots being cooked. I didn’t need to see the menu – I was ready to order!… The small, almost sweet escargots which I had for my first course were drowned in herby garlic butter, they were delicious. For my main course, I opted for the entrecôte steak, it was cooked to perfection and served with sautéed potatoes and a salad, with a pot of Dijon mustard on the side – it was a simple dish, faultlessly executed. Finally, dessert, a traditional ‘Crème Brulée’, again simplicity was the key to its success – the balance of cream and vanilla flavouring was a perfect end to a delightful meal.
Walking back to our hotel, on this balmy Spring evening we couldn’t resist a digestif, so found ourselves back again at Café Hugo, watching Paris wind down for the night. When here for just 24 hours you really do have to fill every minute, but as our beds were calling us we only managed one drink! The following day we were up early, taking a walk along the Seine, we took a quick look at the incredible architecture of the Louvre, before crossing over to the 6th arrondissement, for a light breakfast at La Palette before swooning over the Impressionist collection at the Musée d’Orsay. Then of course it was time for lunch… Not far from the Musée d’Orsay is Au Petit Tonneau…
Au Petit Tonneau, 5th Arrondissement
Au Petit Tonneau is a small neighbourhood restaurant not too far from the Eiffel Tower. Its simple, modern interior reflects the classic, clean flavours of its traditional menu. There is a set lunch menu at 27/35 euros or an à la carte menu. Unsurprisingly, we were feeling quite full having overindulged since arriving in Paris, so we opted for ‘Guinea Fowl & Pea Purée’, it was simply presented, but beautifully cooked – both succulent and flavoursome. Of course, there should always be space for dessert, and how could I resist their homemade ‘Nougat Ice cream’, it was incredibly good, flavoured with dried fruit, a touch of ginger and a fresh red fruit sauce. I can honestly say that it was the perfect end to our 24-hour jaunt in Paris. Now we just needed a final ‘Parisian’ stroll to lighten our stomachs before getting Eurostar home to London!…
April 2022
Some years ago we enjoyed a fantastic holiday in Sri Lanka. Apart from the beauty of this country and its incredible culture, I was struck by the wonderful food we tasted. Although Sri Lankan food is reminiscent of South Indian food it has its own distinctive taste and the flavours have some added ‘island personality’, which isn’t surprising since Sri Lanka is known as the ‘Island of Spice’. When we returned from our holiday I found it hard to find a restaurant that was truly Sri Lankan, however, I am pleased to say that things are changing. Recently in London, there has been a mini-explosion of fashionable Sri Lankan restaurants, a handful of them in Soho, one of these is Kolamba.
Not far from the hustle and bustle of Oxford St you can find Kolamba’s little Sri Lankan oasis. Its modern interior – think concrete floors, open brickwork and muted colours – is the perfect backdrop for its colourful curries. The menu is well priced and everything sounds delicious – unsurprisingly Nick and I over ordered! We started with their ‘Bites’ which are rather like street snacks. ‘Aunty Mo’s Chatti Roast’ was dry roasted beef with chilli and tomato on a bed of string hoppers (soft rice flour noodles), this dish certainly packed a punch, its flavours were accentuated by a turmeric and coconut gravy. We also shared the ‘Paniyaram’ which were crispy bites of fermented rice flour served with fresh chutneys – these were particularly moreish and gave a nice relief from the heat of the ‘Chatti Roast’. After these ‘bites’ we found that our little table was overrun with our main dishes!… ‘Vaira’s Jaggery Beef’ was another punchy dish, this time beef was slow-cooked in spices, whilst ‘Ceylon Chicken Curry’ was chicken cooked on the bone in a light, creamy coconut milk sauce with aromatic flavours perfectly balanced by tangy tamarind – this was one of those ‘comfort’ dishes; easy on the taste buds but at the same time giving them a warm hug. We also tried the ‘Beetroot Curry’, I was excited to try this as whilst in Sri Lanka I had been enamoured with this unusual curry, at Kolamba it was good but not necessarily memorable, it was my least favourite dish of the evening. Finally, there was ‘Parripu’, a thick dhal made with coconut milk and turmeric, this was very good; it was topped with roasted spices and very moreish. Naturally, we ordered ‘Hoppers’ on the side, these bowl-shaped rice flour pancakes are a Sri Lankan staple; they were a favourite of mine when I visited Sir Lanka, and at Kolamba they do them justice – they were light with just the right amount of crisp.
It would be safe to say that Nick and I had ‘eyes bigger than our stomachs’… by the end of these dishes we were feeling rather stuffed, which was a shame as I had wanted to try dessert! But I decided that, on this occasion, dessert would have to wait for a return visit; I will definitely be returning. Kolamba, is a great casual dining option for the centre of town, whether it’s for a lunchtime break from a shopping trip or an evening out with friends. Not only is it well priced, but very tasty!
Kudu Collective – Kudu & Kudu Grill, Peckham, SE15 (Now moved to Marylebone, W1)
(‘KUDU COLLECTIVE’ has moved from Peckham to Marylebone, W1. Peckham’s loss is certainly Marylebone’s gain!….)
February 2021
Since opening its first restaurant in Peckham in 2018, the ‘Kudu Collective’ has been making itself very much at home in this small corner of south London. Having expanded in 2021 it now has two restaurants, a bar and a private art gallery/dining space. Head of the kitchen is Patrick Williams, he injects his South African roots into a Modern European style menu, creating dishes that sing with flavour, whilst his wife, Amy Corbin, concentrates on the front of house. Corbin is the daughter of Chris Corbin of Corbin and King, the partnership responsible for a number of iconic London restaurants including The Wolseley (review here!), and she has obviously has been taught a thing or two about the restaurant business – Kudu Collective has the air of being professionally managed yet retains a relaxed, casual vibe. The interiors of the establishments are seriously stylish; with their signature low-lighting, dark tones, marble tables and velvet banquettes they have a wonderfully seductive atmosphere.
In the last month, I have dined at both the original ‘signature’ Kudu restaurant and at Kudu Grill. The former is in the heart of Peckham and has the advantage of being a ‘stone’s throw’ from their cocktail bar, ‘Smokey Kudu’. Unfortunately, on the evening that we were dining at Kudu, the cocktail bar was closed for a private party, so we didn’t get the chance to try their full cocktail list!…But, fortunately, each restaurant has a small bar serving a few signature cocktails, so we did try their ‘Smokey Kudu’ and ‘Cape Old Fashioned’, which were both beautifully balanced with smoky overtones.
Menus at both Kudu and Kudu Grill consist of snacks, small plates and medium plates, which can be shared or chosen as individual starters/mains. On our visit to Kudu, we chose the sharing option, and to be honest, I wish we’d ordered individually as I think some of the dishes are not suited to sharing – or perhaps I’m just greedy?! Bread is where most meals start, and at Kudu, you definitely shouldn’t miss it, it’s a spiced brioche loaf baked in a pot, served with either melted butter with bacon lardons or shrimps – fantastic. Other stand out dishes were the ‘Scallop Potjie’ – stewed scallops on a light stew of celeriac and sea rosemary, ‘Pan Fried Duck Breast, Golden Beets, Parsnip Puree, Pomegranate Molasses’ – the duck was beautifully tender and well balanced with the subtle sweetness of the vegetables, and ‘Onglet, Hispi Cabbage, Enoki Mushrooms & Truffled Potato Mousse’ – the onglet was served perfectly rare and was very tasty, I wasn’t as keen on the hispi cabbage as the chargrill flavour overpowered it, but the truffle puree was divine!
A few weeks later, after our very enjoyable meal at Kudu, Nick and I decided to check out their newer restaurant, Kudu Grill. I must admit that this restaurant was my favourite of the two. The larger interior has a particularly elegant air and the menu has more robust flavours, featuring ‘braai’ dishes. A braai is the South African equivalent to a BBQ, so the dishes tend to have smoky, charred tastes, which are in turn lifted by subtle sweet and spicy seasonings. First of all, we enjoyed a couple of snacks – ‘Grilled Potato Flatbread, Lardo & Wild Garlic’, a refined take on ‘garlic bread’ and ‘Pork Belly, Squid, Pineapple Blatjang’, a delicious skewer bursting with sweet and salty flavour. Afterwards, we enjoyed starters of ‘Cape Malay Curried Crab, Avocado, Paaper Bites’, which was wonderfully fresh and ‘Grilled Prawns, Peri-Peri Butter’, was a must-try! For my main course I chose ‘Poussin, Honey Mustard Glaze, Green Goddess’, the skin was sweet and crispy whilst the meat was succulent. Nick chose the ‘Pork Chop, Monkey Gland Sauce’, no monkey was involved it was just a very good BBQ sauce! We shared the ‘Smoked Pomme Purée’, which I could have happily eaten all night, it was a dish of deliciousness – smooth, slightly salty and smoked, whilst ‘Grilled Carrots, Cumin & Coriander’ were sweet, chargrilled and subtly spiced – who knew carrots could taste so good! Finally, desserts did not disappoint; there were only two choices but both were very good – a chocolate mousse with malted ice cream was like a deconstructed Malteser and the choux bun with jasmine ice cream was a surprisingly light dessert with the faintest hint of jasmine.
The Kudu Collective, particularly Kudu Grill, is everything a good neighbourhood restaurant should be and more. I loved the stylish interiors and the food with its different yet delicious flavours. If you don’t live nearby, I would suggest that Kudu Grill is definitely worth a detour….
February 2022
(Since this review Humble Chicken has changed its concept and is now only serving a 12 course tasting menu)
Having heard great things about Soho’s ‘Humble Chicken’, I had been wanting to try it for some time. So, last week whilst in the area with a girlfriend, we popped in for lunch. Yakitori is the Japanese name for skewered chicken and at Humble Chicken, they skewer every part of the chicken, ‘neck to tail’… and believe me it’s delicious! Having worked under respected chefs such as Clare Smyth and being head-chef at ‘Restaurant Story’, Japanese born, Anglo Sato, knows a thing or two about flavour and there is no denying he knows a lot about the art of Yakatori.
I knew I would love Humble Chicken when on entering I discovered that seating was at the counter surrounding an open kitchen – I adore watching chefs at work and this seating allows one to feel fully immersed in the cooking process. As a stranger to Yakatori, the menu at first glance is a little disconcerting with the likes of ‘Inner Thigh’ and ‘Soft Knee & Cartillage’ – what a choice, where should one start? Fortunately, there is the ‘Omakase’ option, it literally means chef’s selection in Japanese, and is five assorted skewers (at £19 it’s a steal). We ordered this with a side of rice. ‘Cabbage & Ponsu’ (citrus soy sauce) is also served on the side as a fresh and moreish palate cleanser between skewers. Our first skewer was ‘Breast, Ponsu Oroshi & Chives’ which was wonderfully tender with the citrusy zing of the ponsu garnish. Next was ‘Achilles, Charcoal Fat & Citrus Kosho’, I was so excited to taste this unusual cut that I forgot to take a photo for you, but believe me it merited my excitement. On the outside, it was chargrilled and slightly crisp and on the inside, you were greeted with the succulent fatty flavour of chicken – the one we all love! Our third skewer was ‘Tail, Ponsu Lemon & Shichimi’, this was apparently our server’s favourite, and it was easier to see why. The lemon and shichimi perfectly cut the flavour of the gloriously juicy chicken. This was followed by ‘Inner Thigh, Spicy Miso & Goma’, which was mildly spiced and succulent. Finally, ‘Japanese Meatball with Tare & Egg Yolk’, was mildly spiced, ground chicken on a skewer, served with a dipping sauce of Tare (sweet soy sauce) and egg yolk, it was ultra-moist and unctuous, and delicious dipped in the eggy sauce. Whilst eating our skewers we spied the chefs preparing concertinaed folds of chicken skin, we were intrigued and, feeling piggish (or should I say ‘peckish’!), we also ordered one of these skewers. Apparently, these aren’t always on the menu as they are only served when they have the time and skins to prepare them; weren’t we lucky – they were chargrilled and slightly crunchy – really good!
Feeling quite stuffed at this point, we decided not to indulge in desserts but we will be back!… I have made a date to return with Nick for dinner; I hope to not only enjoy the Omakase skewers but to make a few other ‘skewer’ choices myself, plus have dessert – I’m going to visit on an empty stomach! Do I need to tell you that Humble Chicken is a place you should visit?!…
Leroy, Shoreditch, EC2 (*Closed Nov’24)
February, 2022
Sadly Leroy closed its doors in Nov’24.
‘Leroy’ is the type of place that instantly makes you feel cool, even if you’re fifty-something like me! Last Friday night, I was instantly enchanted by its gentle vibe; behind the bar, there was a shelf of vinyl that provided unobtrusive sounds to create an effortless atmosphere, whilst the simple interior was unassuming but definitely stylish. As the evening progressed the music was turned up a notch and the atmosphere followed suit. Seated at our table, I realised that this was the type of restaurant where I could easily, simply sit and enjoy the atmosphere with a glass of wine or one of their cocktails and forget about eating… indeed, I was already on my second martini by the time our food arrived!
The menu is simple but well-executed. Plates are designed for sharing, which we did, but with hindsight, I wish we had ordered solo – I noticed a neighbouring table do this and I think ‘I missed a trick’. We started with ‘Mackerel, Oyster Mayonnaise, Horseradish’, it had subtle pickled and perfectly balanced flavours. This was followed by ‘Chicory, Walnut, Ossau-Iraty’, which was a little disappointing as the salty ‘Ossau-Iraty’ cheese overwhelmed the dish. Next up was ‘Pollock, Cauliflower, Chorizo, Mussels’, this was a great dish, the pollock was beautifully cooked with a creamy sauce that was brought to life by the salty mussels and the punch of crispy chorizo. Our final ‘main course’ was ‘Duck, Roast Cabbage, Pear, Foie Gras’, this was very tasty, the richness of the duck and foie gras was balanced by the pear and cabbage. Both of our desserts were ‘stand out’ dishes. ‘Rhubarb & Custard’, was simply stunning – really good! And ‘Chocolate, Coffee Caramel, Hazelnut’, was very moreish, the salted caramel deliciously cut the chocolate.
Next time I visit Leroy, I’ll be ordering my own plates (perhaps the Mackerel followed by the Pollack….and two desserts!). However, in all honesty, Leroy isn’t necessarily a restaurant that you visit just for its food, it’s the buzzing yet relaxed atmosphere that is key to its success. Although the food had great flavours and was well executed, I’m not sure it merits the restaurant’s Michelin star, but as a part of the ‘Leroy’ package, with its friendly staff, relaxed vibe, great wine list, you really can’t go wrong!
November, 2021
My favourite pastime is eating out, so as you can imagine, my list of ‘to try’ restaurants is never-ending! For quite some time, ‘Noble Rot’ has been on that list. Since it opened in 2015, it has had consistently good reviews and been heralded by other restauranteurs – which is always a good sign. So when friends suggested that we meet there for dinner last Saturday night, I was more than keen to see them…and the restaurant!
Noble Rot is first and foremost a wine bar with a restaurant; it is possible to pass by just for a glass of wine (they also serve snacks at the bar), or you can have a full meal in their restaurant. The concept has been so popular that in 2020 they opened a second establishment in Soho. On Saturday night we dined at the original restaurant on Lambs Conduit St. Entering Noble Rot on a chilly November evening was extremely comforting, the interior has a slightly Dickensian feel with its uneven wooden floors, sombre colours and low lighting. The menu, with its robust flavours, was equally pleasing, plus of course, there was the wine list; it was easy to lose ourselves in the comprehensive list but fortunately, our waitress was very knowledgeable. I must say that the four of us got rather carried away with the menu, we were tempted to try almost everything, and so ordered a selection of small bites as well as starters, these included ‘Old Winchester Beignets with Pickled Walnut Ketchup’ – rich, cheesy morsels which were very tasty, and also ‘Lamb Arancini’ which were meaty and moreish. For my starter I chose the ‘Burrata, Delica Pumpkin & Hazelnut’, the burrata was wonderfully soft and gooey and was complemented by the sweet pumpkin (it reminded me that I must cook some Delica pumpkin at home whilst it’s in season, as it really is the best!). Another starter was ‘Boudin Noir, Radicchio & Pickled Elderberry’, the combination of flavours in this dish were perfectly balanced; the rich, crumbly boudin noir was creatively cut by the bitter radicchio and pickled elderberry. The meal was definitely off to a fantastic start!… And to follow, the flavours of our main courses did not disappoint, although we were slightly dismayed to find that our dishes were not piping hot (it seemed that this was due to the waiting staff being overstretched). However, we were willing to give them the benefit of the doubt as fortunately, this mishap did not distract from the hearty flavours. I enjoyed ‘Mallard, Pommes Anna & Crab Apple’, the tart crab apple and buttery potatoes beautifully matched the subtle gamey flavour of the mallard duck – which was cooked to perfection. Another winning dish was ‘Monkfish Braised in Oxidised Chablis Grand Cru’, which for good reason is their signature dish, the meaty monkfish was served on a bed of leeks, it was delicious with the luxurious, creamy sauce – what a wonderful use of wine! Finally, desserts were a classic offering – a ‘Rice Pudding, Prunes & Almond’ and ‘Chocolate Mousse, Hazelnut & Crème Fraiche’. They were both very good and were a perfect finish to the flavour-some food we had enjoyed, perhaps not quite as creative as our starters and main courses, but they definitely hit the spot.
I think Noble Rot has become my new ‘old friend’; it has a classic, ‘proper’ menu which pleases most people yet its dishes hold an element of surprise and its dining room has a comforting, relaxed atmosphere whilst managing to make you feel that you’re somewhere special. These are the attributes we all need in an old friend!… I will be trying their Soho branch very soon…
November 2021
One of the downsides of living in a city like London is that as soon as a new restaurant opens to rave reviews, everyone seems to know about it and it’s nigh on impossible to get a reservation. So, when my girlfriend and I managed to nab a table for lunch at ‘Sessions Arts Club’, the new ‘darling’ of the London restaurant scene, I was very excited – it was quite a feat considering the rave reviews and that they are only open Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays. I was a little sceptical that the experience could live up to my expectations, but on entering the dining room I was sold – and I hadn’t even tasted the food!…
Sessions Arts Club is housed in an old 18th Century Courthouse in Clerkenwell, from the outside there is little to indicate the restaurant inside – just a smart, almost hidden red door with a bell. This, of course, gives it the feel of a private club making the experience all the more special. Walking through the door you are engulfed by the intoxicating smell of scented candles, and from the cosy lobby, you take a lift up to the dining room. Entering the room, I literally felt myself swoon, it’s like walking onto a crumbling Regency-style set, with shabby chic interiors and faded plaster walls, it is both theatrical and romantic. The ceiling is incredibly high and with the arch windows, the space is light-filled and airy. There are also two outdoor terraces, which although on this particular November day it was a little too cold to enjoy, I couldn’t resist taking a peek! This is the kind of space which I could very easily live in!..
Then of course there is the food…Florence Knight is well regarded within the restaurant world having trained under Raymond Blanc, and now, as the chef at Sessions Arts Club, she is working her magic, introducing deliciously delicate, seasonal flavours to a wonderful menu of sharing plates. We started with the ‘Panisse, Lemon Thyme & Sea Salt’, I have always enjoyed these chickpea fritters, but I must say that these were particularly light and crisp – a must-try on the menu! There was also ‘Purple Sprouting Broccoli, Cannellini Bean & Lemon’, the broccoli was tastily chargrilled with a creamy cannellini purée lifted by the acidity of lemon, whilst ‘Sea Bream, Fig Leaf & Sorrel’ was a completely different dish with a slightly Japanese style, the ceviche of sea bream was curiously but beautifully flavoured. Moving on to the more substantial dishes, we chose ‘Hake, Watercress & Ratte Potato’, this was one of the simpler dishes yet well-executed, the salted hake was cooked to perfection and wonderfully cut by the buttery potatoes. The show-stopping dish was ‘Rabbit, Borlotti & Nocellara Olive’(unfortunately I was so enthralled by it that I forgot to take a photo!), it was one of the best rabbit dishes I have had for a very long time, the rabbit was cooked confit style and was incredibly moist, flavoured with lemon and herbs, I must admit that I couldn’t distinguish the olives, but it was no matter – the dish was sublime! Finally, desserts were a ‘Chocolate Tart’, its crisp, dark chocolate biscuit base was filled with an equally chocolatey mousse filling, it was divine! Then there was ‘Panna Cotta & Black Figs’, panna cotta is one of those desserts which restaurants can very often get wrong, with just a touch too much of gelatine it becomes heavy and overset, but fortunately, this panna cotta was flawless – creamy and light, perfectly matched by the sweet figs in a syrupy red wine sauce.
By the end of the meal, I had already promised myself a return visit – both for the food and atmosphere. Sessions Arts Club is equally good for groups as it is for a romantic date for two, or even alone – sitting up on their mezzanine level, I could easily have whiled away my time watching the dining ‘scene’ below. It is a place to see and be seen at – yet it is unpretentious; the staff are welcoming and the service is friendly. So, do try and get a table there soon, you won’t be disappointed!…
October 2021
Last weekend we fancied a casual ‘quick eat’ so we popped along to Brixton Village Market to check out its newest opening, Danclairs. For those of you who aren’t familiar with it, Brixton Market is set out over three covered arcades, it offers an eclectic mix of independent stalls, shops and places to eat and drink. Since the 1950s Brixton and its market have been known as the vibrant hub of the Caribbean community. These days although its become a little more gentrified and, for better or worst, is on the tourist map, it still manages to retain these West Indian roots, and this is what makes it so special. It is a totally original space, a little rough around the edges but with a big heart. Since 2012 it has been the home to Brian Danclair’s ‘Fish, Wings and Tings’, which despite only having seating outside in the unheated arcade, has become a local institution serving West Indian favourites such as curried mutton and rice & peas. His new venture, Danclairs, is a slightly more elegant affair, it brings Caribbean ‘fusion food’ to Brixton with tapas-style dishes inspired by not only the Caribbean but Europe and the Americas. It also has seating inside, which is a huge plus for me as I’m always feeling the cold!…
On entering the small space you can’t escape the giant and very bright mural of Danclair’s grandmother which covers one wall (apparently she was Danclair’s inspiration for becoming a restauranteur). The menu is short, but everything shouts flavour, there are also a few cocktails – how could I resist an ‘Eldorado Rum Old Fashioned’, particularly as my Dad is from Guyana which is the home of this fantastic rum, it was a good start!… We then shared ‘BBQ Wings with Guava Glaze’ – these certainly packed a spicy punch, Nick loved them as did I, although my eyes were watering! I particularly enjoyed the ‘Chicken Empanadas with Chimichurri’, whilst the ‘Pepper Prawns’ were wonderfully sweet and fresh and, with the sauce on the side, rather fiery in a very tasty way! There was also Sea Bass, grilled and served with Tomato Concassé, a sauce of fresh, diced tomatoes with slightly piquant olives, and finally, a sirloin steak with chimichurri. All of the dishes were flavoursome with good, honest, home-comfort flavours, the only disappointment was that they don’t do desserts!
Danclairs is just the type of place you want to nip into for a quick bite, not only is the food super tasty, but the prices are reasonable and the service is really friendly!…
The Begging Bowl, Peckham, SE15
October 2021
Since opening in 2012, The Begging Bowl has become a Peckham landmark, attracting diners from all over London to try its authentic Thai menu. Pre-covid, more often than not, there was a queue outside, the fact that this now isn’t the case is by no means a bad thing – they have finally introduced a booking system and done away with their ‘first come first served’ policy…I hate queueing, so this has made The Begging Bowl even better! We returned just the other week for a fantastic meal in their relaxed, light-filled conservatory-style space. We have always eaten wonderful food here and our recent meal was no exception…
The menu consists of small sharing plates served with unlimited sticky and jasmine rice. As always we overordered, but somehow managed to eat everything! First, there was ‘Chive Cakes with Chilli & Soy Dip’, which were wonderfully sweet and salty and extremely moreish, and ‘Charcoal Grilled Sweetcorn, Toasted Coconut & Roasted Chilli Oil’ – these chargrilled sweetcorn bites were a step above the norm; the coconut dressing spiced with chilli was an inspired addition. These were followed by ‘Ginger, Peanut, Shallot, Coconut, Gagangal & Palm Sugar on Betel Leaves’, these were tiny explosions of punchy, sublime flavours – they were seriously good (we should have ordered more!). Next up, ‘Minced Mutton Salad, Tamarind Leaf, Celery, Green Tomato & Crispy Pork’, this was a type of spiced ‘bolognese’ lifted by the light, fresh flavour of green tomato and celery whilst ‘Stir Fry Pork, Ginger, Cloudy Ear Mushroom & Kajorn Flower’, was an eruption of flavours – including a touch of lemongrass perhaps?… the flavours were complex and very good! Our final savoury dish was the ‘Jungle Curry, Grilled Beef Rump, Grachai, Apple & Pea Aubergines’, I must admit I’m a little ‘shy’ of very spicy food, and this was quite spicy for me, but Nick absolutely loved it! Moving on to desserts, we shared the ‘Som Chom – Green Mango, Flat Peach, Lychee, Pandan Syrup, Crispy Shallot &Ice’, this was a beautifully light fruit salad-style dessert with a fresh sorbet base and ‘Banana Sesame Coconut Fritter, Palm Sugar Ice-Cream & Peanut Brittle’ – was, well – I think you can imagine how delicious the combination was – totally satisfying for any sweet tooth!
The Begging Bowl is by no means your ‘bog standard’ Thai restaurant, you won’t necessarily find a green chicken curry featured on its menu, but you will, without doubt, savour vibrant and complex tastes with hot, sour, sweet and salty Thai flavours… plus they do great cocktails!…
September 2021
One of the things that I love about living in London is the endless array of restaurants it offers. Not only are there the constant flow of new openings with their exciting and fashionable flavours, but there are the older restaurants that escape our radars and are still to be discovered. Smiths of Wapping is one of those restaurants; having opened 10 years ago, despite its wonderful reputation for its fish, I only discovered it recently thanks to friends who have moved nearby.
On our recent visit, I enjoyed its informal, buzzy atmosphere and its rather ‘old school’ style; it’s the type of place where you could take your grandparents for Sunday lunch or on the other hand have a romantic meal for two. It’s reliable, like an old friend, you know exactly what to expect – a classic menu with the freshest fish cooked simply and superbly, plus it has the most wonderful view over Tower Bridge. On entering the restaurant there is no indication of the magnificent view it offers until you turn the corner from its rather nondescript reception; the dining room has floor to ceiling windows that overlook the Thames, there is honestly not a bad table in the house – the view is inescapable.
If you don’t like fish this is probably not the restaurant for you as Smiths is essentially a fish restaurant, they are very proud of their reputation for serving the freshest sustainable seafood – there are meat options, but ‘why would you?’…. On our recent visit, we enjoyed starters of ‘Tian of Avocado, Cornish White Crab & Peeled Prawns’ which was beautifully presented with exceptional, well-balanced flavours. The ‘Sweet Cured Arctic Herring Fillets, Chive Potato Salad & English Watercress’ were also seriously good – the sweet pickled herrings were perfectly cut by the creamy chive potato salad. Moving on, the extensive list of main courses included fish cooked in just about every way. Nick opted for the ‘Brixham Dover Sole’ meuniere style whilst I chose the ‘Fillet of Wild Cornish Turbot’, plainly grilled; both were incredibly fresh and cooked to perfection, in fact, the fillet of turbot was one of the best I have had. Finally, the dessert menu offered no surprises with its traditional fare, Nick chose a favourite, ‘Sticky Toffee Pudding’ which was ‘fantastic(!)’ and I ordered the ‘Crème Brulee’, which was well done, rich and creamy.
So, if fish is your thing, Smiths of Wapping would definitely be on my list of restaurant recommendations, you won’t be disappointed with its classic menu and in addition, there is the view!…
(*Smiths of Wapping is the sister restaurant of Smiths of Ongar (in Essex), it opened in 1958!!)
September 2021
I don’t usually start my reviews by saying “eat at this restaurant”….so pay attention when I say, “you must try ‘Behind’!”…We ate at ‘Behind’ on Saturday night and I felt the need to share our fantastic experience with you straight away…
Andy Beyon opened ‘Behind’ in October 2020, which was, considering covid, a bold decision yet just twenty days later he received his first Michelin star – quite a feat! From its relaxed Scandinavian-style interior, ‘Behind’ offers a wonderful fine dining concept; guests are served its 8-course ‘fish focussed’ tasting menu at the same time, seated around a large, spacious semicircular table that faces an open kitchen. By having such a great view of the kitchen, each guest can see ‘behind the scenes’ – hence the restaurant’s name.
On Saturday evening, we were shown to our seats by one of the chefs; there are no waitresses at Behind, instead, Beyon and his three sous-chefs take it in turns to serve their delicious dishes. Having the food ‘hand delivered’ by the chefs is another wonderful concept that makes the whole dining experience fully immersive and intimate – it’s very special, like being at a friends for dinner, only the cooking is far better! In addition, there is no written menu, we were told that it would be a ‘surprise’ and that the courses would be personally introduced when they arrived at the table. It was all rather exciting and, what a show it turned out to be!.. Each course featured a fantastic, complex array of flavours, I’m afraid I haven’t the vocabulary to describe each one in the fashion it deserves plus it would need far too many words, all I can say is that every course was incredible. Highlights were the ‘Scottish Crab Spiced Victoria Plum’, white crab meat was served on a delicate jelly and custard, made from the brown crab meat; the beautifully concentrated seafood flavour was perfectly matched by the sweetness of the Victoria plum whilst on the side, there was a tasty crab bisque – it was heavenly. ‘Roasted Hake, Palorde Clams & Sherry’, was equally divine, the Hake was cooked to perfection with a creamy broth and foam which literally made the dish sing with flavour. The fish croquette that was served on the side was a revelation, the ‘bread crumbs’ weren’t made from bread but fish scales – who would have known that they could be so tasty! ‘Guinea Fowl, Pumpkin & Seed’, was the single meat course, it was unbelievably well done; the guinea fowl had been rolled and cooked sous-vide, which resulted in the most tender and succulent guinea fowl I have tasted, it was served with a sublime sauce which was lifted by the sweetness of chargrilled pumpkin. The desserts were as delicious, they included an intense herb sorbet which on serving we were challenged to guess the three herbs it contained – the flavours were fabulous and intense; I won’t spoil the challenge by telling you its three components, you will have to try it yourself!…
‘Behind’ is the most immersive dining experience I have had, for someone like me who loves cooking it was naturally a dream to watch Beyon and his sous chefs prepare the dishes, but even if you’re not a keen cook you will appreciate the showmanship. It is mesmerising to watch the four chefs seamlessly move from the heat of the kitchen to professional table service and still manage to entertain their guests with a little chatter. Softly spoken and down to earth, Beyon is relaxed and open – the perfect host, at one point we asked about his background, it turns out that he has learnt his art on the job with stints at fine dining restaurants both in the UK (including Claude Bosi – see review here!) and abroad (Chicago). Judging by the fantastic menu we enjoyed on Saturday night, it would seem that he has taken the very best from this work experience.
You would think that a fine dining experience like this would be an extortionate price, but at £74 a head (£42 for the 6-course lunch!) it’s a steal, and what can I say, you would be silly not to try it… You’ve been told!…
September 2021
After eating at Maremma on quite a few occasions since it opened a few years ago, I have decided that everyone needs a neighbourhood Tuscan restaurant like this on their doorstep…excuse me for sounding smug when I tell you that Maremma is just ten minutes from mine! I like to think that I know a thing or two about Italian food, particularly that from the Tuscan region – we have been visiting this area regularly, having bought a small bolthole in the slightly unfashionable (cheaper) corner of Tuscany, ‘Lunigiana’, 18 years ago. During that time we have not only experienced the food on the well-trodden tourist track but also discovered some hidden gems known only to the locals and have eaten at the homes of our Italian neighbours (the best experience of all!). Italians are incredibly proud of their cuisine and each region is fiercely competitive with the next, each claiming theirs is the best the country can offer. Perhaps I am biased after spending so much time around the Tuscan people, but I think that it’s difficult to beat the specialities that evolve from Tuscany. The region is bordered by the sea on one side and the mountains on the other – enabling it to serve up the freshest seafood ‘al mare’ and also the rich, rustic food inspired by the produce inland and around the mountains, ‘alla terra’.
Sorry, I’m digressing(!)…the point is, is that neighbourhood restaurant, Maremma, brings these regional specialities to the outskirts of Brixton. Serving up authentic Tuscan food, they focus on a simple menu with quality ingredients; salumi, cheese and olive oil are sourced from the heart of the Tuscan region, fresh pasta is made on the premises daily and often meat and fish are cooked on a charcoal grill.
We recently enjoyed another delicious dinner in Maremma’s small, light, slightly rustic dining room. The short menu offers few surprises but is well executed. To start with we enjoyed their platter of salumi which was very fresh and flavoursome. We then enjoyed a rich and creamy ‘Pea and Broad Bean Risotto’ and a plate of ‘Pappardelle with Wild Boar Ragu’, that was fantastically meaty and slow-cooked to perfection. For our main courses, Nick chose the ‘Tagliata of Beef, Maremman Salt, Rocket and Pecorino’, this is a dish that we often eat in Tuscany, so it needed to be extremely good to please us, fortunately, it passed the test – the meat was ‘like butter’, beautifully tender! I chose the lighter option of ‘Guinea Fowl & Endive with Tarragon Aioli’, the guinea fowl had a wonderfully crisp skin and the meat was tender and moist; the tarragon aioli was the perfect complement whilst the bitter endive balanced its richness. We also ordered a side of ‘Crispy Potatoes’. Finally, we shared a chocolate lovers dream – ‘Chocolate and Plum Tart’ and ‘Yogurt Gelato & Stewed Figs’, which managed to be fresh and light despite the sweetness of the figs… both desserts were superb!
Maremma brings a small corner of Tuscany to South London, if you’re in the neighbourhood, it’s definitely worth a visit; I would, without doubt, recommend that you try out its simple, authentic menu at the soonest opportunity!…
September 2021
I was back eating out in London last week and decided to return to our local neighbourhood restaurant, Naughty Piglets. I hadn’t eaten there since before the pandemic and was looking forward to returning as I had always enjoyed their well-priced, small tasty plates. Fortunately, little has changed.
Naughty Piglets describes itself as having ‘an English heart with a French accent’, which reflects the husband and wife team behind this small, buzzy bistrot; Joe, who is British, is the chef whilst his French wife, Margaux, is the friendly front-of-house face. Likewise, the modern British food has a French accent, indeed one can imagine this tiny, casual bistrot along a back street of a Paris suburb, fortunately for us, it’s just down the road in Brixton.
With just 29 covers the restaurant is very snug, on our recent visit we sat at one of their high bar tables, there is also a compact dining room with tables at the back; the space has a wonderfully casual vibe, just what you want when popping out locally. The menu is designed to share, so I was rather pleased that my son, Felix, had decided to join Nick and I as that meant we could share more plates and really do the menu justice!…We started with their ‘Ham Croquettes’, which for good reason are a regular feature on their menu – they are deliciously crisp on the outside and gooey in the middle. Next up was ‘Burrata Puttanesca’, the burrata was as it should be, wonderfully soft and creamy in the middle whilst the flavours of a deconstructed puttanesca sauce – capers and a rich tomato salsa – complemented it perfectly. ‘Isle of Mull Scallops with Garlic Butter & Parsley Oil’ were sweet, fresh and absolutely delicious with the garlicky butter which we quickly mopped up with bread! These were followed by ‘Raw Beef, Coffee Mayo & Focaccia’, the beef tartare was good and the coffee mayonnaise although a little different, strangely lifted the meaty flavours, but we couldn’t quite understand the need for the chargrilled focaccia on the side. Next, there was our favourite dish of the evening, ‘Roast Cod, Scottish Girolles & Beurre Blanc’, the cod was beautifully cooked with a crisp skin and the blanc beurre sauce was rich yet delicate and perfectly matched the tasty girolles. Finally we enjoyed ‘BBQ Pork Belly with Korean Spices’, the pork melted in our mouths whilst the spices made it sing. Desserts were a fantastic ‘Chocolate Delice with Hazelnut’ – the rich chocolate mousse was lifted by the slightly salted crumb base and whilst there were no surprises with the ‘Crème Caramel’, it was well done, sublime and creamy.
So, it goes without saying that if you are in the vicinity of Brixton do visit Naughty Piglets, but make sure you book first as I noticed a couple of customers without bookings being turned away!
The Pipe & Glass, South Dalton, East Yorkshire
August 2021
Just the other week we had another ‘staycation’ in Yorkshire, on this occasion we decided to visit the east of the county which we had never seen before. If I’m honest, this corner of Yorkshire has less to offer than its counterparts, but we were attracted to the area for the reputation of one restaurant in particular…The Pipe & Glass, a Michelin stared gastropub. Indeed just after I had booked our visit, I was pleased to see its appearance in an article in ‘The Times’ which featured the 25 best UK pubs for a staycation – admittedly we weren’t staying there (with hindsight we wished we had!), but the point was that the article was celebrating the food the Pipe & Glass offered…
The Pipe & Glass, a former 17th-century lodging house, can be found in the pretty village of South Dalton, near to the larger market town of Beverley. Husband and wife team, James and Kate, bought the pub in 2006 and by 2010 had acquired a Michelin star. These days it is recognized as one of Yorkshire’s premier gastro pubs; it prides itself on being first and foremost a proper pub, it’s possible to turn up just for a pint, however, the food really should not be missed!… The menu, which you can eat in both the bar or restaurant area, features traditional comfort food with subtle, inspired touches; there is nothing too complex, it’s just great, good British food. We ate at the pub twice on our recent visit, once for a light, impromptu lunch and the following evening for a proper full-blown meal. On our lunchtime visit we managed to nab a table outside and enjoyed a brief spell of sun, I chose the fish pie which had a lovely, crunchy cheddar crust and on the side a pickled fennel salad with brown shrimps – it was this little touch that took the traditional fish pie to a higher level. Nick chose the Roast Pork Loin, again it was the small additions that made this dish sing – the black pudding sausage roll and sage and cider gravy. When we returned for our evening reservation, we made sure we were hungry so we were able to enjoy three full courses!…This time we dined inside, the restaurant has a homely, unpretentious atmosphere. We both started with the ‘Proper’ Prawn Cocktail’, it was certainly a great prawn cocktail, generous in both size and flavour. Nick also had a couple of ‘Lindisfarne Oysters’, which were deliciously fresh and flavoursome. Moving on to our main courses I enjoyed ‘Roast Chicken Breast with Braised Peas & Lettuce, Champ Potato, Pickled Baby Mushrooms, Smoked Bacon Veloute & Summer Truffle’, it was well executed; what really made this dish was the pickled mushrooms and shavings of summer truffle – it was definitely not your average ‘pub grub’! Nick chose ‘Rump of Lamb with Beer, Barley and Broad Bean Risotto, Summer Vegetables, Mutton Belly Fritter, Nettle & Mint Sauce’, again everything was cooked perfectly, but it was the little extras – the fritter, the risotto and the nettle & mint sauce that lifted the dish to a higher level. Finally desserts, well naturally being a ‘pub’ there was sticky toffee pudding, which Nick couldn’t resist, but this of course was a step ahead of the traditional fare with a stout ice-cream and a little glass of stout(!) plus some walnut brittle – it was all extremely good. I chose the ‘Cinder Toffee Ice cream with Dark Chocolate Honeycomb Bites’, this was a deliciously creamy, slightly salted caramel ice cream with their gourmet version of the ‘Crunchie bar’ on the side – it was fantastic!
We very much enjoyed the traditional menu with its sophisticated twists, the portions are generous whilst the flavours are honest – this is the type of food every gastropub should be serving!…Next time we visit The Pipe & Glass, Nick and I have promised ourselves an overnight stay…perhaps it can be the starting point for a gastro tour around Yorkshire…
August 2021
Normally we spend our summer holidays in Italy, but as visitors from the UK are still required to quarantine for five days, we have been unable to visit. We have been particularly missing the wonderful Italian cuisine, and so we decided that if we couldn’t go to Italy we would have to settle for the next best thing…a meal at the River Café! The River Café is the mother of good Italian restaurants, it opened in 1987 originally as a canteen for Ruth Roger’s husband’s architectural practice and went on to win a global following, and publish a few cookbooks. If I’m totally honest, we haven’t dined at the River Café for some years, as due to our regular trips to Italy I have become a bit of an ‘Italian food snob’ and it irks me to pay the high prices which the River Café demands for food which I can get cooked just as well on our Italian travels. However, needs must and due to the current aforementioned circumstances, we decided that it was time to revisit. Getting a reservation at the River Café is no easy feat (another thing that irks me!); we booked our recent table for Sunday lunch back in May. When we booked, I had imagined that in August it would be at least sunny and we would be able to eat al fresco on their wonderful terrace on the banks of the Thames…but I was forgetting that this is England, not Italy, and indeed on our Sunday visit it was not just raining but pouring!… This wasn’t a bad thing though, as I had forgotten how much I liked the dining room – it seems to have changed little since its opening, it has a very early 90’s feel with an open plan, canteen-style that still manages to be elegant; its retro style brought back good memories.
The menu took us straight to the heart of Italy; there were antipasti including calamari, prosciutto with white peaches, pizzette and mozzarella di bufala whilst main courses included chargrilled leg of lamb with wood-roasted tomatoes and a veal chop roasted with capers & lemon. I did my best to ignore the prices and forget the comparable Italian cost, and instead enjoyed the moment, ordering the ‘Crab with Sorrento Tomato & Basil Aioli’ for my first course, whilst Nick ordered the ‘Ravioli with Mushrooms, Ricotta & Thyme’. Upon the first taste of these dishes we were smiling, yes, what a great decision it was to return to the River Café, how could we have left it so long?! The beautifully fresh crab was complemented by the incredibly sweet tomatoes that were undeniably Italian – it was simple chemistry on a plate, Italian style. Nick’s pasta lived up to his high expectations, it’s melt in your mouth texture was wonderful with the mushroom and ricotta, and a hint of thyme. The second courses were just as incredible, I chose the ‘Turbot Wood-Roasted with Clams, Basil, Zucchini Flowers and Spinach’, it was a generous portion, cooked to perfection and complemented with baby courgettes with its flowers, spinach, and wonderfully plump clams. Nicks ‘Wood-Roasted Boned and Rolled Rabbit with Pancetta, Fresh Cannellini and Summer Truffle’ was equally flavoursome, the rolled, stuffed rabbit was incredibly moist and perfectly matched with fresh cannellini and summer truffle. Finally desserts, well naturally I had to have their famed ‘Chocolate Nemesis’, only recently I shared this recipe on MenuMistress (find the recipe here!), it was exactly how I had remembered, wonderfully rich and chocolatey – pure chocolate heaven. We also shared the ‘Pannacotta with Vanilla, Grappa Nardini and Roasted Peach’, it was a perfect pannacotta, just set and very creamy, served with white peaches – their delicate sweetness really made this dessert.
Our meal was fantastic, yes it was expensive for what appeared to be a simple Italian feast, but there could be no denying the quality of the carefully picked ingredients which truly sang on our plates, all perfectly seasoned and cooked. In fact, it was so good, that on returning home we went online to get a table for another Sunday lunch…it looks like November, if we’re lucky!…
Hélène Darroze at The Connaught, W1
July 2021
We were celebrating my birthday last weekend. Admittedly my birthday was back in April, but then, as we were under lockdown we couldn’t celebrate it in style at a restaurant. Therefore, on Saturday night, for my fine dining treat, we ate at Hélène Darroze at the Connaught. Although I had never eaten at her restaurant, I had tasted her food through a fine dining takeaway that the restaurant offered during lockdown. Nick ordered it as a surprise Valentines meal, so it was his responsibility to cook it; it was delivered in beautiful boxes, and unfortunately, he confused the box with one of the main courses (a pigeon pie) for the starter, so I almost ended up eating this raw! Fortunately, he worked it out in the end and got the meal back on track, it was delicious even if the service wasn’t! Despite being a lovely treat, I don’t think that fine dining ‘takeaways’ work incredibly well as you really can’t replicate the atmosphere that a proper restaurant offers, and in turn, it’s difficult to justify the cost. So I was looking forward to the opportunity of having the complete Hélène Darroze experience!…
Having trained under Alain Ducasse, one can safely say that Hélène Darroze knows a thing or two about haute cuisine, indeed she now has three Michelin stars at The Connaught, which reflects her exceptional cooking. In addition, judging from the dining room which was refurbished just before Covid hit our shores, she has a good eye for interior style. The Dining Room is the epitome of elegance with pale wood panelling and coral coloured upholstery. I won’t lie I was a little disappointed to see that there were no white tablecloths, a thing that I love in a restaurant of this calibre, but I must admit the exposed wooden table tops did not take away from the warmth of the room and complemented its contemporary style. I particularly loved the two specially commissioned Damien Hirst ‘Butterfly’ collages that adorn the walls, they really are a stunning addition. It’s true to say that I would have been happy to transport this room back home!
On the evening of our visit, once seated, it seemed appropriate to enjoy a glass of champagne as we settled into our luxurious surroundings and perused the menu. We opted for the seven-course Summer menu. Before being served a selection of amuse bouche, we were given a light cucumber and verbena infusion to cleanse our palates, it was a nice idea, but a rather disappointing start to a meal that on paper sounded sensational; I was expecting the bright flavours of the cucumber and verbena, but instead it was rather medicinal. The amuse bouche that followed were far more thrilling, the ‘Melon with Sardine’ was refreshing and tangy whilst the ‘Crab Macaron’ was crisp and light but with the wonderful taste of crab. Our first course ‘Crab from Cornwall’ was even more impressive both in looks and taste, the combination of brown and spider crab was lifted by the zing of pomelo – it was rich yet light, very delcious. This was followed by ‘Sea Trout from Wales’ served ceviche style in a light ham consommé flavoured unusually with scots pine and served with ‘celtuce’ which is an Asian lettuce root, this dish promised to deliver a punch of flavour, but unfortunately, we found it lacking. In comparison, ‘Hélène’s Surprise’ (Fois Gras with Peach) which followed, was sensational, it was rich and sublime and the white peach was an elegant, subtly sweet addition. Equally thrilling was our next course ‘Lobster from Cornwall’, with tandoori spices, carrot, citrus and coriander, it was imaginative with its Asian flavours, which were exotic but did not overwhelm the sweetness of the lobster. Next up was ‘John Dory from Cornwall’ it was served with a ‘bagna cauda’ sauce. Bagna cauda is a dish that originates from Piemonte that is made from anchovies and garlic; I feared it would overwhelm the delicate fish, but this sauce was very subtly seasoned and deliciously creamy. There was a hint of kaffir lime which introduced, again, the Asian influence that Darroze seems to favour and which lifted this dish to a higher level, whilst the violet artichokes were a fantastic addition. The following course was ‘Lamb from North Wales’, with summer herbs, trompette courgette, haggis and girolles, if I’m honest this was a little disappointing, it was beautifully cooked, but its flavours were rather underwhelming. Our ‘pre-dessert’ was ‘Apricot from Provence’, this was the star of the menu, a whole delicately poached apricot, its sweetness offset by an olive oil panna cotta and the subtlety of sorrel – really fantastic. Finally, to end the meal, we shared two desserts – ‘Chocolate from Vietnam’, was a rich chocolate ganache served with warm coffee and cardamom sauce – it was a chocolate lovers dream! The ‘Signature Baba’ promised to be the star of the show; a little sponge cake was brought to the table and you were asked to choose one of three of ‘Darroze’s Armagnacs’, the waiter then generously poured this over the sponge and topped it with Chantilly cream and raspberries. It was great showmanship, but did not deliver the complex flavours that one would expect from a three-star Michelin chef – it wasn’t the end to our meal that we had hoped for.
Without doubt the quality of the food and the service at Hélène Darroze are exceptional. We couldn’t fault the presentation and remarkable standard of the cooking, however we did feel that some of the flavours were not as rounded and full as we would have expected. Having said that, the complete ‘Darroze’ experience is worth splashing out on for a treat and yes, I would be very happy to return, although with prices as high as Darroze’s it probably won’t be in the near future!…
The Leaping Hare, Bury St Edmunds
July 2021
The Leaping Hare is one of the jewels of Suffolk’s crown. Owned by Wyken Vineyards, who produce award-winning wines, it has a wonderful setting on a 1200-acre farm surrounded by quintessential Suffolk countryside; country lanes, hedgerows, patchwork fields and woodlands. Our lunch coincided with the most beautiful day of the year, summer had finally arrived in the UK and the Suffolk countryside was looking particularly spectacular – just driving out to the restaurant was a joy! The restaurant is housed in a converted 400 year old barn, its high beamed ceilings and airy space are quite striking; it was the perfect place to enjoy a long lunch with friends on a sweltering afternoon…
The menu is a blend of modern and traditional European dishes, the emphasis is on seasonal, thus flavoursome, food, they often use locally sourced ingredients (these are noted on the menu). We started with a refreshing glass of Wyken Elderflower & Lemon Aperitif, which was pretty much the perfect summer spritz. Then, of course, we had to order some of the Wyken wine (we opted for the ‘Madeline Angevine’ which was light and smooth – easy drinking on a summers day). With our drinks ordered we moved onto our starters which included, ‘Green Vegetable Minestrone with Wyken Garlic’, it was deliciously light, yet full of the flavour of summer vegetables, with the faint hint of fresh garlic, whilst ‘Cromer Crab, Mozzarella, Suffolk Tomato Consommé’, was equally light and delicious, with just the right amount of creamy mozzarella and tomato so that the tasty crab was not overwhelmed. For my main course, I chose ‘Roast Cod, Clams, Charred Courgette & Broad Beans’, the fish was perfectly cooked, but the stand out ingredients in this dish were the courgettes and broad beans – they were extremely fresh as if just picked. Nick chose ‘Suffolk Pork Loin, Peas, Broad Beans, Jersey Royals, Mustard & Caper Sauce’, it was a plate that literally sung with colour and flavour – once again garden-fresh. Finally, desserts… well how could I not chose the ‘Chocolate Ganache, Sour Cherry Sorbet, Kirsch Cherries & Hazelnut’?….it did not disappoint, the cherries with the rich chocolate were a superb combination. I also shared the ‘Iced Pavlova, Wyken Gooseberries & Elderflower’, a wonderful, seasonal dessert; not surprisingly, it was the sharp yet sweet gooseberries which particularly performed here – although the meringue was of course fantastic!
Our lunch was not only delicious but the atmosphere in the restaurant was friendly and relaxed – the service was excellent, we were given time to digest our courses at our own pace yet the staff were always on hand when we needed them. Afterwards, I had planned to discover the Wyken’s gardens and woodland walk, but it was rather too hot on this particular day (especially after a glass or two of their wine!), so I will have to return when it is cooler to experience them, and of course another long lunch!
If you’re in Suffolk, The Leaping Hare is a restaurant worth a detour. I was particularly impressed with how, in every dish, it was possible to taste each individual ingredient and how incredibly fresh and flavoursome they were. They do not overcomplicate their dishes they simply interpret the ingredients and cook them well, what more could you ask for?…
July 2021
The Butley Orford Oysterage has been run by the Pinney family since the 1960s, indeed, with its formica tables and green and white paintwork, it is rather like stepping back in time. There is nothing fancy about the interior but don’t be fooled by this lack of refinement, this is its charm and the important thing is that they know exactly how to serve the local fish and shellfish…
On our recent visit with friends, we began by sharing a few starters… ‘Griddled Squid,’ was a joy – fresh and not at all ‘rubbery’, exactly how squid should be and very often isn’t. ‘Garlic & Chilli Prawns’, were very moreish and delicious with bread to dip into the garlicky oil, and ‘Taramasalata’, was fresh and creamy. We also had a plate of smoked fish, which was a great way to try their locally fished and smoked produce, plus a couple of their famed oysters – it was all fantastic. For main courses we had their ‘Wing of Skate’ and ‘Grilled Dover Sole’, these were extremely good and served exactly how the freshest of fish should be – simply, there was just a little caper butter for the skate and a wedge of lemon with the Dover sole (new potatoes were served on the side – they don’t do chips!). Desserts were a ‘Strawberry Meringue’ and a warm, very moist ‘Chocolate Almond Cake’, they were simple in a home-cooked way and very tasty.
It goes without saying that I would recommend the Butley Orford Oysterage, not only was the quality of the fish excellent, but I also loved the ‘no frills’, relaxed atmosphere and the friendly, professional service; we sat in the front room (I would request a table here as the back room looked a little dingy).
Afterwards, we took a late summer evening stroll around the picturesque village of Orford down to its quay. Orford is now one of my favourite Suffolk villages, not only does it have a castle and pretty cottages, but it is also home to the Butely Orford Oysterage plus the ‘Pump Street’ Bakery and Chocolate Shop – what more could any village wish for?…fish, bread and chocolate!!…
July 2021
Set on the working harbour at Southwold, overlooking the River Blyth towards Walberswick, ‘The Sole Bay Fish Co’ serves up their daily catch fresh from the sea. The restaurant isn’t much to look at, it’s literally a few ramshackle fisherman’s shacks, which include a stall that sells wet fish and shellfish. You can eat outside, however, you can only order from a limited takeaway menu, so for the ‘real deal’ it’s best to eat inside where you can enjoy the full restaurant menu which includes their incredible lobster and crab platters.
The Southwold to Walberswick foot ferry is just beside the restaurant, so before our lunchtime visit, we took the 2-minute boat ride over to Walberswick for a quick stroll before returning, totally charmed by the surrounding area, for a well-earnt lunch!… We started with a selection of oysters, these were not only served traditionally with red wine vinaigrette but were also beer-battered and pan-fried with garlic – they were superb. We also shared ‘Chargrilled Crevettes’ in a lemon and garlic butter served with lemon mayonnaise, I could have eaten these all day, they were that good! For our main course we had ‘Pan-Fried Sea Bass Fillet’ and ‘Half Chargrilled Lobster with Garlic Butter Sauce’; the lobster was the winning dish, it was sweet and the flesh was tender, really delicious. Both dishes were served with chips which were the ‘proper homemade’ type, it’s worth coming here just for these! Unfortunately, they don’t serve desserts, actually, I admire them for sticking to what they know best – fish. So, on this particularly sunny afternoon, we decided to saunter down into Southwold for an ice-cream. It was only as we were leaving the restaurant that I noticed their fresh rollmop herrings on a neighbouring table, I have a soft spot for these – how could I have missed them on the menu?! Naturally, I will now have to return to try them… What a great excuse to revisit… See you there!
The Station Hotel, Framlingham
July 2021
From the outside the Station Hotel looks rather unconvincing as a gastropub, it has a rather dilapidated exterior and hasn’t got the best location. However, the owners of our Airbnb recommended it, and so last Saturday we decided to pop in for an impromptu lunch – it was so good that we decided to return for supper the following evening!…
Inside, the pub has retained its traditional charm with simple rustic wooden tables whilst outside there is a small, rather higgledy-piggledy courtyard garden. On our first lunchtime visit, we sat outside – making the most of the long-awaited sunshine – and ordered two main course dishes. I enjoyed, ‘Mackerel, Gooseberry, Samphire & New Potatoes’, the skin of the mackerel was beautifully chargrilled and the combination of the sharp gooseberries, fresh cucumber and salty samphire worked well. Nick chose ‘Chicken Milanese with Mash & Spinach’ (apparently Ed Sheeran is a local here and according to the waitress, this is one of his favourites!). I was a little sceptical that this dish would pass Nicks critique as this is one of his home-cooked favourites and he likes it ‘just so’…but this dish passed with flying colours, even the mashed potatoes, which he was unsure would work alongside the dish, was applauded!… So after the success of this quick lunch, we returned the following evening for supper, this time we had a ‘Panzanella Salad’ (fresh and well balanced with just a touch of saltiness from the anchovies) and ‘Confit of Duck with Baby Gem & Peas and Sauté Potatoes’ (the duck was crisp, moist and well balanced by the sweet peas). This time we tried desserts, two classic choices: a ‘Lemon Posset’ and ‘Strawberry Eton Mess’, both well done.
The Station Hotel is a great example of how a good gastropub should be, the menu was inspiring and the quality of the food was outstanding whilst the pub itself has a relaxed, ‘no frills’, friendly atmosphere. If I lived nearby, this would be my go-to eatery. So, if you’re in the vicinity I would definitely recommend a visit to The Station Hotel which is the star of Framlingham’s restaurant scene! …
July 2021
We were very happy to discover that Watson & Walpole, was just down the road from our Airbnb. One of Watson & Walpole’s co-owners is Ruth Watson, who has been in the restaurant business for around forty years and is well known for being the presenter of TV’s ‘The Hotel Inspector’. Consequently, she knows a thing or two about the successful running of a restaurant, even so, opening a restaurant in 2020 at the height of Covid is an admirable feat. Despite its rather English name, Watson & Walpole is an Italian restaurant, since its opening, its authentic menu has attracted a loyal local following…
We dined there on the first evening of our holiday and it was a great start to our week. The interior of Watson and Walpole is simple and modern, suited for a neighbourhood Italian, although I did find it a little sterile. The menu was uncomplicated; a choice of seven starters and seven mains, including pasta, meat and fish; my one gripe was that they didn’t offer the option of gluten free pasta. We started by sharing ‘Frittura of Brown Shrimps and Lemon Slices’, I have tasted quite a few ‘Frito Misto’ in Italy and I have to say that this was every bit as good – the wafer-thin fried lemon slices, were a revelation, really delicious! Afterwards, we enjoyed our starters, ‘Chargrilled Octopus, Celery, Potato, Caper & Parsley Salad’ which was very fresh, the ingredients beautifully complemented each other, and ‘Coppa with Young Broad Bean Pods & Pecorino Saracena’, was a simple dish, but with quality ingredients – the Coppa was excellent and the broad beans, cooked in their pods were sweet and meaty. For our main courses we chose, ‘Wood Roasted Lamb with Fresh Borlotti Beans & Salsa Rossa’, the slow-cooked lamb was particularly flavoursome, whilst the ‘Vitello Tonnato Caldo’ was an interesting take on the traditional ‘Vitello Tonnato’ (wafer-thin slices of veal served cold) here the wood-roasted veal was served warm, in thicker medallions with a tuna salsa – I really enjoyed this subtly salty dish. Finally, desserts; Nick went for a classic end to his meal with ‘Tiramasu’ (can that ever be a bad decision?!) and I chose ‘Ricciarelli with Gooseberry Compote & Mascarpone’, the almond biscuit was perfect with the gooseberry compote.
It was a great meal, unpretentious with quality ingredients, and the service was professional yet friendly – it is exactly what you would expect from a restaurant co-owned by Watson and exactly what any town needs as its neighbourhood eating spot!
Also worth a try…
The Easton White Horse, Easton
July 2021
This recently refurbished gastro pub is housed in a rustic 16th century hostelry which has a picturesque setting in the quaint village of Easton. We enjoyed a good meal here, the menu of classic British pub classics focuses on local, seasonal produce, it is well thought out and executed. I was particularly impressed at how accommodating they were – there were no gluten free desserts on the menu but the chef managed to rustle me up some chargrilled peaches, meringue and cream with a passionfruit coulis, it was delicious!…
Claude Bosi at Bibendum, South Kensington
Sadly Claude Bosi at Bibendum closed its doors in August 2025.
July 2021
Last week we were celebrating Nick’s birthday, so we had the perfect excuse for a fine dining experience! On Saturday evening we headed up to South Kensington to dine at Claude Bosi’s two-starred Michelin restaurant which is housed in the iconic Bibendum building (Michelin House). Before we talk about Claude Bosi and his food, first of all, I must give you the low down on the actual premises of the restaurant, because when you eat here you are not only experiencing fine food but also the beauty of the art deco premises. Bibendum was built in 1911 for the Michelin Tyre Company, the front was originally a tyre-fitting bay for passing motorists. The architecture of the building was designed around Bibendum (or Michelin Man) who was the company’s mascot – he features on the mosaic floor tiles, the ceramics on the walls and most impressively on the stained glass windows. It is these same impressive stained glass windows that these days look down on diners at Claude Bosi, making the dining room one of the most attractive that there is. Indeed, when I entered the room I felt myself swoon, not only were the windows striking but also the high ceilings created an elegant, airy room and the well-spaced tables were clothed wonderfully in white – it was all very old-school, something that I particularly like when I’m eating this calibre of food (and paying the price!).
We were seated at one of their window seats which gave us a magnificent view of the aforementioned room and also the central kitchen which was housed behind a glass wall – like a machine encased in a glass box – so it was possible to see the mesmerising mechanics of the restaurant. As we relaxed into the stylish vibe we enjoyed a cocktail, I chose a ‘New Old Fashioned’ which was a modern take on the traditional Old Fashioned substituting orange for yuzu (a Japanese citrus fruit), it was extremely good. We then got down to business and ordered our food; we chose the tasting menu, which with six courses plus a selection of amuse bouche, promised to be a show-stopping meal.
The ‘show’ started with a selection of amuse bouche which were miniature tastes of Bosi’s favourite creations including the ‘Bibendum Egg’, they were all fantastic, in fact, I took one mouthful of the foie gras ice-cream and uttered the words ‘I’ve died and gone to heaven’ – it was that good!… If this was only the beginning, how on earth would they top this incredible start?… Well, top it they did, with our first course, ‘Tomato Caprese’. Naturally, this was not reminiscent of the Caprese salad we are accustomed to, it was a gorgeous looking dish with stunning flavours, the cheese was recreated into a light mousse whilst the tomatoes were totally transformed into intense, sweet balls. Next up was ‘Orkney Scallops’, I think this has got to be one of the best scallop dishes I have had; ceviche of scallop was finely chopped with a light, fragrant elderflower and lemon jelly, their sweetness was delicately complemented by the subtle saltiness of the purée of roe on which they sat. This was followed by another heavenly course, ‘Turbot with English Peas & White Miso’. It was a skilfully balanced dish; a light risotto which was unusually flavoured with horseradish was served alongside, its sharpness complemented the freshness of the turbot and the sweet peas without overpowering them. By this point Nick and I were on ‘cloud nine’ – all the courses which we had so far tasted were faultless. Having had the fortune to eat at a few three-starred Michelin restaurants we were rather incredulous that Bosi only had two stars, how could that be with food of this calibre?… Our next course was ‘Veal Sweetbread with Black Olive, Anchovy & Feta Cheese’, this brought us slightly back down to earth… I must admit that having tried sweetbreads (the glands of a calf) many years ago at another top restaurant I avoid them; they are an acquired taste and although I eat most things I have never managed to acquire the taste for these! I probably should have asked if it was possible to substitute this course when I ordered the menu, but I felt that it was a shame to upset the flow of a chef’s tasting menu and I’m always willing to try things (again). Despite this dish being visually beautiful, I found the offal overpowering, but perhaps, for someone who has acquired the taste for sweetbreads, these could well have been the best they had ever tasted. However, I do feel that sweetbreads are a rather self-indulgent dish for a chef to put on his tasting menu – I noticed a few unfinished plates on neighbouring tables, so I was obviously not the only one who found the dish difficult to stomach. Our next course was more to my liking, ‘Galacian Beef’, the meat was perfectly tender and the flavours were interesting. However, we did feel that Bosi was trying too hard to impress as it was over contrived and thus the ingredients, including a pickled walnut which we were advised to eat in small pieces(!), overpowered each other. Our next course, a pre-dessert, put the meal back on track, ‘Almonds with Yuzu and Linden Honey’, was a delicious almond-milk sorbet shaved into flakes, it was incredibly light yet with complex flavours – it was very refreshing. Nick and I then shared two choices for dessert. ‘English strawberries, Toasted Marshmallows, Green Shiso & Plum Sake’, was a rich, very ‘mallowy’ dessert in which wild strawberries were complemented by caramelised marshmallow. Then there was the utterly unusual, ‘English Peas, Camomile & Coconut’, you had to admire the skill of this dessert – not only for its beauty but for its subtlety, it was refreshing yet luxurious. Finally, to end our meal a waiter appeared with a trolley of petit fours inviting us to choose a few – we opted for ‘Banana’, ‘Coffee & Caramel’, ‘Raspberry Jelly’ and ‘Passionfruit’, they were the perfect finale to an incredible meal.
Eating at Claude Bosi is a wonderful dining experience, from the moment you enter the elegant dining room you know it’s going to be special; it is fine dining at its best. Not only are the plates mesmerising but they have intense flavours which are awe inspiring, plus there is the fantastic service, which is unfailingly attentive yet never intrusive, but most importantly friendly and not at all stuffy. Yes, there were one or two disappointments (the sweetbreads and the beef), which probably explains why Bosi has not yet acquired his third Michelin star, but the quality and skill of the cooking cannot be denied. Despite the eye-watering bill – yes the prices are punishing – I would recommend Claude Bosi for a special occasion meal or just a very indulgent treat!…
July 2021
If you’re familiar with London restaurants you will have no doubt heard of Bocca di Lupo. Since opening in 2008, has firmly established itself as the institution for foodies who demand the best Italian cuisine outside of Italy. Its menu is a celebration of the country’s regional food; their classically inspired dishes often have a slight twist but the flavours are always authentic. Last week I returned to Bocca di Lupo in the heart of Soho and enjoyed a magnificent meal…
Entering the restaurant is a little like coming home – it’s lively, relaxed and welcoming. I really like the space; at the front, there is an open kitchen with bar side seats (perfect for casual diners), and at the back, there’s the dining room which is smart yet buzzy – very ‘Soho’! The menu serves most dishes as small or large plates, so it’s possible to try lots of small plates which are great for sharing or you can simply choose a large one, or if you’re greedy, like us, you can order a combination of the two!
On our recent visit we started with small plates to share: ‘Sea bream carpaccio, Rosemary & Orange’, ‘Mozzarella, Tomato & Basil’, ‘Olive Stuffed with Minced Pork & Veal’ and ‘Rigatoni with Sheep Ricotta, Broad Beans & Basil’. These were all incredibly good; the wonderfully fresh seabream was complemented with the delicate flavour of orange which gave the dish the right level of ‘tang’. The mozzarella salad, although simple, had flavours that took me straight back to Italy, the distinctive taste of the basil was quite stunning whilst the tomatoes were those flavoursome, meaty ones that you can only really find in Italy. Unfortunately, I couldn’t share the rigatoni as I am gluten free, the same went for the minced pork ball which was fried in breadcrumbs – Nick rather smugly informed me that they were both delicious (he can eat for England!). Moving on, we chose the ‘Honey Marinated Pork Chop & Rosemary’ – the pork was cooked perfectly with a hint of pink, whilst the subtly sweet gravy was delicious. On the side, we ordered Courgette Trifolate, which was simply courgettes sautéed with chilli & parsley, but the freshness of the ingredients made this a stand out dish. Also simple yet stunning was our order of salad – traditional Escarole lettuce with a lemon dressing. We then got rather carried away ordering desserts – the idea of sharing plates encouraged us to order rather more than we could comfortably eat however, somehow we managed! We chose: ‘Chocolate & Marzipan Ball with Rum & Raisins’ (a must for marzipan lovers!), ‘Wild Strawberries with Rice Gelato’ (a lovely milky ‘rice pudding’ ice-cream complementing the sweet, tiny wild strawberries), and ‘Hazelnut Gelato Profiterole & Chocolate Sauce’ (beautifully balanced flavours). We didn’t stop there, we also ordered a couple of their dessert-like sweetened coffees, ‘Caffè allo Zabaione’ (espresso topped with creamy beaten egg yolks) and ‘Bicerin’ (hot chocolate & espresso topped with cream); what a finale they were to a magnificent meal!!… We were well and truly stuffed but in that most pleasing way.
So, I am sure that you can recognise that I would, without a doubt, recommend a visit to Bucco di Lupo! It’s the type of restaurant where I would like to spend my entire day; eating through their menu from morning until late into the evening. Unfortunately, this wouldn’t be possible, as due to their popularity there is naturally a demand for reservations, and the friendly restaurant staff have an art for encouraging the turnover of tables!…
*TIP: Bucco di Lupo also owns Gelupo, a wonderful authentic gelateria. It can be found across the road from the restaurant – it is well worth a visit. In addition to the classics such as chocolate and pistachio they have more unusual flavours, including my personal favourite ‘Ricotta Sour Cherry’!
June 2021
Having had a few weekends away, we were back eating out in London on Saturday night and we enjoyed a meal at ‘Kitty Fishers’ with friends.
When Kitty Fishers opened its doors in December 2014 it attracted rave reviews and it was nigh on impossible to get a reservation. At the time, when I did manage to get a table, although I enjoyed the food, I did think it was overhyped – a little too trendy for its own good. In recent years, the buzz around Kitty Fishers has calmed, and I must admit, when I visited last weekend, I preferred the calmer not so smug atmosphere. The dimmed interior has a warm boudoir style to reflect its namesake, Kitty Fisher, who was a famed 18th-century courtesan who lived nearby. The space is rather snug – I have only ever eaten in the upstairs, small dining room beside the bar, I like this rooms cosy yet lively vibe. They also have a slightly larger basement dining room lined with red banquette seating; both rooms have quirky character. The advantage of being seated upstairs beside the bar is that you can see all the wonderful signature cocktails being made, the disadvantage is that they’re difficult to resist!
On the evening of our visit, I was feeling particularly hungry and was comforted by the traditionally themed modern British menu. For my starter I chose the ‘Pickled Cornish Mackerel, Crème Fraiche & Dill’, I adore mackerel pickled this way, and this dish definitely delivered on the flavour front. Our friends were more adventurous and chose the ‘Globe Artichoke and Herb Vinaigrette’, it looked magnificent, although I must admit I personally don’t have the patience to eat this dish, but my friends assured me that it was well worth the effort and that this particular artichoke was perfectly cooked. Moving on to our main course we all chose to share a couple of the ‘Belted Galloway Wing Rib, Tarragon & Green Peppercorn Butter’, it was a beautiful T-bone steak, a quality piece of meat cooked on the rare side – exactly how we like it! It was served with a watercress salad and delicious crispy potatoes which were unbelievably good – better than the traditional chip! It was a simple dish, cooked extremely well. Finally, dessert, Nick and I both chose the ‘Summer Berry Mess’, which was of course a take on the classic Eton Mess; it hit the right spot. Our friends chose the ‘Tutti-Frutti Ice-cream’ which was also well done.
So the verdict?… Kitty Fishers serves modern British food that cannot fail to please, it doesn’t necessarily offer any great surprises but it delivers quality dishes with honest flavours, although these are pricey. It’s a good place to dine with friends as it’s intimate yet has a lively atmosphere and the cocktail list is sure to be enjoyed!
SADLY THIS RESTAURANT HAS NOW CLOSED
June 2021
Last week, I was visiting family and friends in and around the New Forest. Having grown up in the area and visited regularly over the years, the lack of good restaurants in this region has always puzzled me. Being generally an affluent area (Sandbanks, the home of celebrities and multi-millionaires is just down the road) you would think that the market was ripe for restauranteurs, but up until now, this hasn’t been the case. Fortunately, things appear to be looking up. The Pig (review here) which was in fact founded some years ago, has perhaps been the catalyst for this change. Whilst just recently The Elderflower, a fine dining restaurant in Lymington, received the recognition it deserved and was featured on an episode of the BBC’s ‘Remarkable Places to Eat’; although, the downside of this review is that it is now impossible to get a reservation – I have managed to get one for next year! This of course proves that there is a demand for good restaurants yet not enough supply. So on my recent visit, I was excited to be trying a couple of new gastropubs which have created a buzz on the local grapevine. The review for the first place I tried was hindered by my aforementioned excitement which was exacerbated by the fact that I was meeting up with friends who I hadn’t seen in a very long time, and so I forgot to take any photos, which rather hinders a good review! Therefore, although my experience at the Gun Inn, Lymington was very positive and a place I would recommend, my review will have to wait until I can revisit with my camera. I learnt from this mistake, and the following day when I had lunch at The Saltern, I was armed and ready for photos…
The Saltern’s owners, Joe and Henry, met at school in Lymington. Their passion for food and the hospitality industry took them away for some years, but after experiencing both sides of the industry – Joe is the chef and Henry is front of house – they decided to return home and open The Saltern. It is still early days, and on entering the restaurant I found the interior rather ‘fresh’ and still a little ‘empty’. Indeed they will be the first to admit that it is a ‘work in progress’; they have ambitious plans for The Saltern which include a landscaped garden with a live-fire kitchen and an edible garden for growing produce. But of course, right now it’s the food that is the most important thing and this was the main reason for my visit…
The menu of sharing plates is seasonally inspired, and on the day we visited it was difficult not to over order as everything seemed delicious on the refreshingly simple menu. In the end, we decided to start with ‘Bloody Mary Oysters’, which although we couldn’t taste the ‘Bloody Mary’ element, were wonderfully fresh – a real treat. We then enjoyed the ‘Wild Bass Crudo & Cherry’, which, again, was beautifully fresh; the seasonal cherries were the perfect complement. For our shared ‘main event’ we chose ‘Salmon & Gooseberry’ and ‘Porchetta & Gravy’, these were both delicious. The Salmon was cooked perfectly whilst the bittersweet gooseberry purée was a recipe that I’d like at home. The porchetta was also a dream; melt in your mouth good with just the right amount of crackling. On the side we ordered the ‘Ratte Potatoes & Smoked Butter’, I would have been happy to eat the whole plate of these by myself! We also chose ‘Mangteout & Mint’, I must admit that we almost didn’t order these as I think that mangetout is a rather overrated vegetable, but these were possibly the best mangetout I have tasted, they were slightly chargrilled, which gave a smoky flavour that was great with the mint. Finally, desserts, ‘Raspberry Frangipani & Cream’, a great tart which was eaten very quickly! We also shared scoops of ‘Lemon Verbena Ice- cream’ – creamy and fresh – and ‘Cherry Sorbet’, plus ‘Chocolate Ganache & Strawberry’ – very moreish!
The Saltern is, without doubt, the new restaurant that Lymington (and the surrounding area) has been crying out for. I must admit that living in London I am rather spoilt by the choice of good restaurants, however, I felt a little envious that The Saltern was a ‘stone’s throw’ from my friend’s house!
June 2021
The Rattle Owl is the type of place every town needs – an independent, casual dining restaurant offering quality and value. Set within the historic walls of York, housed in a restored 17th century building, The Rattle Owl has a lovely relaxed interior that is at once welcoming. Their seasonal menu has firmly established itself in the hearts of both the locals and tourists, and it is particularly renowned for its Sunday lunches. So on our recent visit to York, before heading home to London, Nick and I decided that we had to sample their Sunday lunch!…
On the Sunday we visited, the menu offered Roast Beef Sirloin or Roast Mutton, both were served with roast potatoes and vegetables, and of course with Yorkshire Puddings. There was also a fish and a vegetarian choice. Before our chosen main courses we ordered starters – we both opted for the ‘Cured Trout, Wild Horseradish, Dark Rye, Fennel & Gin’. It was an elegant starter, wonderfully light, but beautifully flavoured with a horseradish ice-cream and gin jelly. Moving on to the ‘main event’, Nick followed the traditional route choosing the Beef Sirloin; the beef was cooked to perfection, the roast potatoes and Yorkshire puddings had just the right amount of crisp without being heavy with fat, and the vegetables were lightly dressed in butter with a touch of garlic. We were both impressed with the clean flavours of this roast. Having eaten out on the previous two evenings, and having rather overindulged (reviews below!), I felt the need for a lighter main course, so ordered the ‘Cod, Mussel and Thornbourough Cider Sauce, Wilted Spinach, Shetland Mussels & Asparagus’. This dish particularly confirmed the ability of The Rattle Owl’s kitchen – the cod was cooked beautifully, and the mussels gave a subtle, salty flavour which was cut by the delicate cider sauce. Finally desserts, following the tradition of Sunday roast menus, there was a wonderful Sticky Toffee Pudding, which Nick chose, whilst I opted for the ‘slightly’ lighter option of ‘85% Ecuador Single Origin Chocolate Delice with a Coco Nib Tuile & Rapeseed Ice Cream’! As its name would suggest, the chocolate in this dessert was incredibly flavoured, rich and intense, however it was beautifully cut by the creamy rapeseed ice-cream.
The Rattle Owl gave us a wonderful end to our weekend in York. Their Sunday Roast is one of the best I have had at a restaurant. It demonstrated the flare of their chef, Tom Heyward, and I will definitely be returning on another day to try their à la carte menu!…
June 2021
Last weekend I was back in one of my favourite cities, York. This time not only did I get the chance to eat at Meltons, which was once again fabulous (see my review from December here) but also at Arras. I had been wanting to eat at Arras for some time, having heard good things about it, plus I was intrigued by their story. Owned by Lovaine and Adam Humphrey, Arras was originally opened in Australia – yes, you read that correctly – Australia!…But, the British couple, eventually felt the pull to return home, and they chose to bring Arras to York! The experience of cooking in two continents can’t be a bad thing, indeed Arras strives to deliver ‘thought provoking and interesting food inspired by their travels’…I was hoping I was in for a treat!…
On the evening we dined at Arras it was a warm, sunny evening, but unfortunately, it was a little too chilly to eat outside on their small, pretty terrace however, it would have made the perfect spot for lunch. Inside, the restaurant’s dining room is a modern, light filled space, which I felt could have benefited from lower level lighting to make the room a little more intimate, although it did enable us to see very clearly the beautiful courses we were eating!…Our meal began with some delicious canapes, including a selection of gluten free ones for me plus homemade gluten free bread! It isn’t very often that I get the treat of gluten free bread as good as this; they also own ‘Little Arras’, a French inspired bakery in the centre of York! Throughout our meal, I was not only impressed by their attention to my dietary requirements but also by their obvious enthusiasm for the food that they served.
After a delicious amuse bouche (a light potato & garlic soup served with asparagus) we enjoyed our first courses. I chose the ‘Quail, Beetroot, Game Ragu & Spiced Sauce’, the sweetness of the quail was perfectly complemented by the earthy flavour of the beetroot and subtle spice – it was a great dish. Nick’s ‘Cured Haddock Cocktail, Lettuce, Cucumber & Pink Grapefruit’, was also good, however, we felt that the sharp flavour of the grapefruit rather overwhelmed the dish. Moving on to our main courses, we chose the ‘Cod, Young Vegetables, Mussels, Saffron & Chickpea Veloute’, this was superb, the cod was enhanced by the beautiful fresh flavours of the root vegetables whilst the mussels were unusually pickled – they really gave the dish a subtle punch. We also chose the ‘Sirloin, Beef Olive, Celeriac, Sauce Bercy & Marrow’, this was cooked well, but we did find that there was a lot ‘going on’ in the dish, almost too much…the flavours were competing rather than complementing each other. However, saying that, it was a tasty dish, just a little overwhelming. Finally desserts, a fantastic ‘Lemon & Liquorice’, which was a mousse and ice-cream combo, here, both the two flavours and the textures beautifully complemented each other! We also shared the ‘Rhubarb & Burnt Butter’, you can’t really go wrong with rhubarb in my opinion, and this dessert was a great success!
Arras, delivered its aim to present ‘thought provoking and interesting food’. On the whole, the meal was a success, I did feel that a couple of the dishes were a little contrived, however, this showed that they were willing to take risks and present their guests with a meal which would be tasty, memorable and different – which it was. And for that reason, I will definitely be returning to Arras in the future…
Coast, Saundersfoot, Pembrokeshire
May 2021
On our recent long weekend to Pembrokeshire, we enjoyed dinner at the fantastic ‘Coast’ restaurant; there are not many restaurants in this corner of Wales that offer the high standard of cooking that they deliver. Coast, as its name would suggest, is located on Coppet Hall beach and has magnificent coastal views. On the evening we visited, we were particularly fortunate that the terrible, wet May weather gave us some respite, and the sun was (almost) out, allowing us to enjoy the wonderful panorama. When we managed to tear our eyes from the wonderful view we were greeted by beautifully presented dishes, which would not out be out of place at any top London restaurant.
In addition to our chosen dishes, there were complimentary appetisers which really added to the fine dining experience that Coast strives (and achieves) to deliver; ‘Today’s & Yesterday’s Bread’ was an inspired way to serve bread – a fresh slice of today’s bread with an incredibly tasty slice of yesterday’s, soaked in a beef broth! Our starters were as impressive, the ‘Salmon, Oyster & Cucumber’ was beautifully fresh; salmon was subtly salted with an oyster, whilst cucumber, lightly pickled, rounded off the dish. Meanwhile ‘Chicken, Morels & Broad Bean’ was a deliciously light ballotine of chicken, complemented by meaty morels and tender broad beans. For our main courses, we both opted for the ‘Brill, Sea Vegetables & Shrimp’, once again wonderfully fresh, the Brill was cooked to perfection and generously flavoured by tiny shrimps and delicate pillows of gnocchi. Finally dessert, ‘Chocolate, Rose & Thyme’, seriously, this was one of the best chocolate desserts I have had for a long time, yes, even better than the chocolate dessert I had enjoyed the night before at The Fernery! The chocolate mousse was light whilst the flavours of thyme and rose beautifully cut the richness of the dark chocolate – it was a totally moreish dessert! In comparison Nick’s dessert, ‘Strawberry, Clotted Cream & Elderflower’, seemed rather simple, however, it was delectable, with intense flavours from a combination of both fresh and roasted strawberries.
Coast is owned by The Grove Hotel (see the review here), and it gives their in-house restaurant, The Fernery, which is also exceptionally good, a run for its money. It goes without saying that Coast definitely merits a visit!…
The Grove, Narberth, Pembrokeshire
May 2021
Last week we enjoyed our first UK escapade since the recent, seemingly never-ending lockdown!…The unseasonal May weather showed no sign of abating as we drove down the M4 in the relentless rain. Fortunately, we were on our way to The Grove Hotel in Pembrokeshire, which describes itself as a ‘boutique country escape with a warm Welsh heart’ – perfect! On arrival, it ticked all the boxes, the interior of the hotel, which received a makeover last year during the first lockdown, is beautifully designed with period features blended with local crafts and neutral tones. We were staying in the Blue Room, which was a relaxed yet elegant room, (and beautifully warm, once they got the radiators working – this was a slight blip but they resolved it quickly!). Naturally, as Nick and I are always looking forward to our next meal, we had chosen The Grove not only for its reputation for its accommodation but also for the food it serves. They have two restaurants, the Fernery and The Artisan Rooms; we were staying four nights so this allowed us to try these and to venture out on two nights to eat locally. In addition, we were soon to discover, that breakfasts at The Grove were definitely worth getting out of bed for. I must admit to overindulging (their porridge with banana and maple pecan nuts with a splash of cream was a particular favourite), but I assure you, that we needed a big breakfast to fuel our day walking along the magnificent Pembrokeshire Coast! We enjoyed a couple of walks, despite the wind and rain and in fact, on Saturday the sun surprised us, so we were able to fully appreciate the spectacular views of the Stackpole coastal path. I must admit I was blown away, almost literally(!), by the scenery – the coast was spectacular, but I also enjoyed seeing the beautiful hedgerows along the narrow lanes which were full of spring flowers – bluebells, cowslip, the striking pink of red campion and the occasional yellow of primroses. The grounds of The Grove are also wonderful, they are beautifully kept, and include a walled kitchen garden and a lovely terrace under blossom trees. On our one bright day, we enjoyed a post-walk glass of champagne on their terrace, which allowed us a glimpse of the hotel in the sunshine and made us promise to return next year – surely the English weather would treat us better next time….
We ate at the Fernery, the more formal of The Grove’s two restaurants, on our first night, and what a great start it was to our stay. The restaurant is in the more traditional wing of the hotel, with its white-clothed tables and classic interior it has that quietly comforting atmosphere that only the best country hotels can offer. Before dinner we enjoyed cocktails in the lounge – the classic Old Fashioned for me and a Negroni for Nick, both were perfectly made. Nick’s Negroni was particularly good and on asking about the vermouth they used we discovered that it was an artisan brand, Carpano Antica Formula – we will be ordering a bottle for home!!…In fact, over the next few days, we were to try a few more of their signature cocktails(!) and discovered that they strived to introduce the subtle flavours of other artisan brands – their Martini was made with the addition of Eccentric Limbeck Gin and lavender bitters – wonderful!
Following our cocktails, our dinner at The Fernery was as impressive, chef Douglas Balish, often uses the produce from The Grove’s kitchen garden and our 5-course tasting menu had wonderfully fresh flavours. Our first course was ‘Smoked Early Pembrokeshire Potatoes,’ this wasn’t by any means a simple potato dish, instead, this dish of pureed potatoes with egg yolk, dashi, pea and bottarga had complex flavours; smoky, salty and creamy. Our second course was a ‘Pembrokeshire Oyster’ slightly pickled with cucumber, jalapeno and sour cream, it was a wonderfully fresh dish to follow the creamy potato first course. The third course was ‘Chicken with Langoustine, Morels and Asparagus’, this was an unusual combination – I have never had chicken with shellfish in this way before and it worked beautifully – a contemporary take on a ‘surf ‘n’ turf’, I imagine that the chicken was cooked ‘sous vide’ as it was incredibly tender. Moving onto our fourth course, we enjoyed ‘Cardigan Hogget,’ a piece of lamb fillet flavoured with goats cheese, caper jam and garlic, again this was cooked to perfection. Finally, dessert, ‘Tulakalum Chocolate’, although the chocolate was, naturally, very rich, this dessert managed to be refreshing with the addition of ginger, lemon and coriander – it was the perfect end to our meal.
We were impressed with both the food and the service at The Fernery; whether you’re staying at the hotel or you happen to be local, it merits a visit, it comes at a price but is a wonderful treat and I predict that Balish will soon receive the coveted Michelin star…
This second restaurant at The Grove, The Artisan Rooms, is a high-end casual dining restaurant offering guests a more informal alternative to The Fernery. The dining room with its relaxed interior overlooks a garden terrace, which weather permitting, can offer al fresco dining.
The menu is inspired by Welsh ingredients, simply prepared. On the evening we dined at The Artisan Rooms, we were pleased to see that wild garlic featured on the menu; on our walks along the Pembrokeshire coast, we had spied (and smelt!) a lot of this wild plant, if I lived locally I would definitely be foraging, to cook it at home! So to start with I chose the ‘Wild Garlic Soup’, which was beautiful, both fantastically green and flavoursome, with a dash of soft goats cheese. I was so eager to taste this beautifully vibrant soup that I forgot to photograph it for you and, as I was enjoying it so much, I also failed to photograph Nick’s ‘Game Terrine En-Croute’, which was also very ‘tasty’! For our main courses, we had ‘Lamb Rump with Wild Garlic and Leeks’, it was the creamed potato flavoured with the garlic and leeks that carried this dish, the lamb, I must admit, lacked a little on the flavour front, however, the ‘Cod with Coconut and Seaweed’, was a definite winning dish, it was delicately flavoured and cooked beautifully. Finally desserts, Sticky Toffee Pudding, always a crowd-pleaser, this was undoubtedly good; I particularly liked the little nibs of toffee that were dotted through the sponge! We also shared the Rhubarb and Ginger Cheesecake, it was delicious, the rhubarb was wonderful although we couldn’t taste much ginger. It was a great meal and a lighter alternative to the richer meal we had enjoyed at The Fernery.
Whilst I would not necessarily say that The Artisan Rooms was a ‘destination restaurant’, it is a very good complement to their fine dining restaurant, The Fernery, and one which the hotel’s guests will totally appreciate.
May 2021
How exciting…my first restaurant review since our recent, seemingly never-ending, lockdown!…
It was wonderful to be eating out again last week, although unfortunately it was definitely ‘eating out’, as tables inside were still out of bounds due to government Covid restrictions. This outside dining could have been a disaster, as the May weather was proving un-seasonally cold, but fortunately ‘Wild by Tart’, is the perfect ‘outside’ venue as its courtyard has three proper brick walls and a roof – just one side is open to the elements and thus it is quite protected, in addition, there are outside heaters, so for someone like me, who feels the slightest chill, it is perfect!
Wild by Tart was founded by Jemima Jones and Lucy Carr-Ellison, the duo behind the catering company Tart London, who have also published a cookbook, ‘A Love of Eating’. The restaurant is housed in a former power station, just behind Victoria Coach Station, so has a great central location. It’s a lovely large space, with high ceilings and although unfortunately, I couldn’t sit inside the restaurant when I visited, it looked great from outside(!), it has been beautifully renovated with a stylish interior, with lots of greenery and warm lighting.
They offer a relaxed menu of sharing plates, with modern European flavours which are inspired by the seasons and often cooked over charcoal grills or in wood-burning ovens.
When I visited last week they were offering a reduced menu because they were only catering for outside eating, but it was all very appealing. My lunch was a long-awaited reunion with girlfriends, so we all felt that we deserved to start our lunch with a cocktail – something which Wild by Tart’s menu had a great selection of! I chose a ‘Brazil’ which was a refreshing blend of Cachaca, lemon, basil & yellow chartreuse – it was the perfect lift on a rather drizzly day!
We then chose a combination of sharing plates – Asparagus, Tarragon Tomatoes, Artichoke & Roast Garlic which had robust yet fresh flavours, whilst Burrata with Pea & Mint Pesto and Pea Shoots was equally delicious; the burrata was wonderfully soft and gooey, just how I like it, and was beautifully complemented by the flavours of the pea and mint. We also enjoyed Fowey Mussels, White Wine & Habanero Chilli – wonderfully fresh – and Bream with Braised Cannellini Beans & Aioli; the beans with their unctuous garlicky sauce were the winner in this beautiful dish. We also shared freshly baked focaccia – bread is something that Wild by Tart does very well; apparently, their flatbread pizzettes made in their wood-burning oven are something that we should have tried, but on this occasion, we were rather full from our sharing plates – eating out to lunch is obviously still a novelty!…in fact we didn’t even have room for a dessert, although I must admit, later that evening I did regret not ordering the Cardamom Panna Cotta with Poached Rhubarb!…So, I have made the decision to return soon to enjoy the full menu when the restaurant reopens fully after May 17th…See you there!
December 2020
York is perhaps one of the UK’s most perfect cities, with its beautiful Minster, ancient city walls and medieval ‘Shambles’, it manages to combine a vibrant history with contemporary attractions such as independent shops and restaurants. Since my son, Felix, has been studying at the University of York, I have been fortunate to have the excuse to visit on a few occasions, and can definitely vouch for its wonderful selection of restaurants. Recently, at the end of our trip to the Yorkshire Dales, we spent our final night there and revisited one of my favourite ‘York’ restaurants, Meltons.
Chef Michael Hjort and his wife Lucy opened Meltons in 1990 and have since continued to serve high quality modern British food to much acclaim. On our first visit a year or so ago, we were extremely impressed by the standard of the food and presentation of the seasonal dishes, in fact, we expressed our surprise to Lucy, who runs the front of house, that they didn’t have a Michelin star. She rather refreshingly admitted that they had decided some time ago that they would not concentrate of this accolade as they were fortunate to have a successful business and did not need it to encourage more custom, indeed it would only have put more unneeded pressure on the chef and staff (a complaint often cited against the Michelin star system). Perhaps it is this decision that gives Melton’s that extra edge, the dining room is relaxed and informal, whilst the fact that Lucy is still very much front of house reflects the personal investment they have in the business and ensures the high standard of service.
On our recent visit we were once again impressed by the food and service, admittedly the position of our table, upstairs, was not ideal (I would recommend trying to book a table downstairs in the main restaurant), but we managed to make our own atmosphere. It was a wonderful dinner out, in fact, it was our last for some time, as on our return, London moved into tier four…and now, of course, we have national lockdown.
Our meal started with some delicious canapes before we enjoyed our starters, ‘Hand Dived Scallop with Salsify, Chicken Wings and Maple Vinegar’ and ‘Pigeon with Panisse, Blackberry, Chive Emulsion, Hazelnut and Pickled Shimeji’, both had subtle sweet and savoury flavours and were perfectly cooked. Moving on to our main courses we enjoyed ‘Longhorn Beef, Sirloin, Shin Croquette, Kohlrabi, Maitake, Onion, Persillade Emulsion’ and ‘Pork Fillet, Shoulder and Belly with Cauliflower, Jowl Bon Bon, Burnt Apple and Watercress’ these dishes were generously flavoured with interesting elements and a combination of textures – all really delicious. Finally, desserts ‘Dark Chocolate Delice’ and a ‘Caramelised Pear and Brown Butter Tart’ – both exquisite.
Our dinner was the perfect ‘last supper’ before returning to London and discovering we were to be confined to tier four and thus a restaurant hiatus!…Hopefully, with new vaccinations on the horizon and the chance that life will return to a new normal in the not too distance future, you too will soon be able to enjoy a meal at Meltons. If you are a Londoner like me, remember that it is possible to visit York for the day, by train it takes just an hour and fifty minutes(!), so Meltons would make a great lunch excursion!…
The Blue Lion, East Whitton, Yorkshire Dales
December 2020
If you have read my blog recently you will know that in early December, just after the second lockdown, we managed to take a short break in the Yorkshire Dales. Before going away I researched restaurants in the area, this is something that I love to do; I trawl through various websites, comparing reviews before finally compiling a shortlist. I get great satisfaction trying these restaurants, especially when I know I have chosen a winner!
The Blue Lion, made my shortlist, but I was a little sceptical about it as I had read some negative reviews on TripAdvisor, at the same time I am always rather sceptical about reviews on TripAdvisor, as I often find them irrational! Fortunately, I went with my gut instinct; having read reviews from other websites, I made the decision to visit The Blue Lion.
Originally an 18th century coaching inn, The Blue Lion still retains a lot of character with a roaring fire, flagstone floor and sturdy oak tables, it is a proper English pub but one which serves restaurant quality food. We visited The Blue Lion for lunch, having enjoyed a lovely, somewhat cold walk on the nearby Dales, it was wonderful to enter this cosy pub, with its roaring fire and comforting smell of wood smoke. Apart from four other customers it was just us, and we were fortunate to have the table beside the aforementioned fire. The chalkboard menu had some great, seasonal dishes, many inspired by local Yorkshire produce. We decided to share a starter – ‘Blue Wensleydale, Cos and Walnut Salad with Croutons and Creamy Blue Cheese Dressing’, it was a nice, light yet tasty start to our lunch. The main courses definitely confirmed that we had been right to choose to visit The Blue Lion… I had ‘Rack of Yorkshire Dales Lamb, Rosemary Fondant Potato, Yellisons Goat Curd, Piccolo Tomato Confit in Aged Balsamic & Rosemary’, it was a generous plate of food, the lamb was cooked perfectly pink and was super tasty, and surprisingly light – the tomato confit gave it a lovely fresh flavour. Nick opted for the ‘Roast Crown of Yorkshire Partridge, Confit Leg Bon Bon, Liquor of Blackberries & Sweet Potatoes’, a wonderful, seasonal, meaty dish, particularly flavoursome with the blackberries. We chose traditional desserts – Nick couldn’t go wrong with the delicious Sticky Toffee Pudding, whilst I enjoyed the ‘slightly’ lighter Crème Brûlée – wonderful!!
We could have stayed in the snug bar of The Blue Lion all afternoon, in fact I did have a sneaky, relaxing Irish Coffee at the end of my meal! It was a really perfect lunch. Whilst we relaxed over our coffees we wondered about the negative reviews it had received, they mainly complained about the service (unfriendly and slow) and that the food was overpriced. Whilst it is true that the food is expensive by ‘village pub’ standards (more ‘London loaded’), the quality of the food and the portions, in my opinion, justified the prices – the food is restaurant standard thus priced accordingly. When we visited, the pub was very quiet so it is difficult for me to say how the speed of service would be under busier circumstances, but our service was good, not too slow or fast, whilst our waitress was friendly, although admittedly not particularly animated.
So, if you are in the region of Wensleydale, I would definitely recommend a visit to The Blue Lion – if you have anything like our experience you will not be disappointed!
The Angel at Hetton, Yorkshire Dales
December 2020
My recent ‘foodie’ travels in the Yorkshire Dales, took me to the wonderful Angel Inn at Hetton. Any self-confessed lover of fine food could never visit the Dales and not visit this renowned Michelin starred gastro pub, so unsurprisingly it was on my restaurant list! The Angel is widely regarded as the UK’s original gastropub – it has origins which date back to the 15th Century! In recent years, it has been regarded as a destination establishment for fine food whilst the arrival of patron chef Michael Wignall in 2018 has taken it to a legendary status. Wignall and his wife have not only taken the food to an outstanding level but they have also redesigned the interior of this old pub; they have sympathetically brought modern to the old, introducing a stylish, contemporary, clean oak interior whilst keeping the original oak beams and some of the fireplaces – it totally suits the beautifully plated food that they serve.
Having just finished a rather bracing walk (and having changed out of our muddy boots!) entering this pub was like being hugged – the warmth of the fires was inviting whilst the modern interior was very comforting after getting lost once or twice on the damp Dales! Seated in front of one of the wood stove fires, we decided that we deserved a glass of champagne – I have since decided that all walks should end like this! We then had the joy of reading the menu, everything seemed delicious…
In the end we opted for starters of ‘Scallop with Oscietra Caviar, Dill, Apple & Frozen Buttermilk’ – this was in my opinion flavoured to perfection, a real joy, and ‘Sweetbread with Artichoke, Sunflower Seed Purée, Winter Truffle & Vin Jaune’, was similarly executed wonderfully. For our main courses there was ‘Loin of Venison, Butternut Squash, Pumpkin, Teryaki Shitake, Pak Choi, Cocoa & Brioche’ and ‘Steamed Turbot with Salsify, Sea Leek & Smoked Pike Roe Butter Scented with Kombu Vinegar’, both of these dishes were exquisitely presented and all the flavours were combined masterfully. Finally, dessert – ‘Bergomot Set Cream and Curd, Olive Oil Cake, Candied Pistachio, Yogurt & Pomelo’ and ‘Caramelised Pineapple, Bitter Chocolate, Indonesian Coconut & Marigold’, both were faultlessly flavoured. The whole meal was a carnival of flavours all cleverly complementing each other.
It was without doubt a wonderful lunch, however at the end of this exquisite meal we were left just a little ‘unfulfilled’. The courses at the Angel are beautifully presented (picture perfect) and without doubt absolutely delicious….but they are very small. Admittedly this goes hand in hand with this type of rich food, however, normally, a restaurant of this calibre, and one which serves this type of cuisine would serve amuse bouches and palate cleansers between courses, and this is what our meal at The Angel missed – that small gift from the chef which brings the meal together and the dining experience to a higher level. Even with our coffees, we didn’t receive the normal small plate of petit fours – instead just one, tiny, jelly each.
I am perhaps being harsh as despite this slight disappointment, I would still recommend The Angel at Hetton; food and chefs of this excellence don’t appear everywhere, especially in the Yorkshire Dales – there is no denying Michael Wignall’s talent. So, yes, I would certainly return, and perhaps I would enjoy this restaurant more second time around, knowing not to expect ‘ those extra gifts’!…
Yorebridge House, Bainbridge, Wensleydale
December 2020
If you have read my blog recently you will know that last week we managed to escape to the Yorkshire Dales for a short break. It was so refreshing to get away from ‘reality’ for a few days, even if we were masked up and still in tier two! Before going, the weather forecast was rather miserable, but in actual fact we managed to have some beautiful walks, and we didn’t get too damp. It was wonderful to be in the middle of the fields surrounded by sheep and the odd hare – Covid seemed out of sight for at least an hour or so. The highlight of our break was the food, although, as you know, I love cooking, it is always a treat to be cooked for, especially when the quality of the food is high. We had chosen our hotel not just for its location but also for its reputation for food…and it did not disappoint!…
Conveniently situated in the heart of Wensleydale, Yorebridge House is a former schoolhouse that’s now home to 11 individually designed rooms. Our room, Carabeo, was beautifully appointed and overlooked the river Ure and the ‘sheepy’ Dales. For me the beauty of Yorebridge House was that after a refreshing walk around the Dales we were able to return to its warm, relaxing interior, and in the evening enjoy its cosy bar where we could have a cocktail before a great gourmet meal – I felt totally spoilt. The service for our entire stay was fantastic, friendly and relaxed yet totally professional.
The food was in fact better than I had expected(!), not only was it was elegantly presented but adventurous and full of flavour. One of the problems with staying for four nights in one place is that often the menu doesn’t change, and so you are stuck with the same choices. Although this was the case at Yorebridge House, it was not a problem as all the choices appealed to me, and each evening I looked forward to trying each and every one of them(!), in fact, the one evening that we did venture to eat out was a disappointment. Before our dinners, each evening we were presented with a different velouté (a mushroom, a goats cheese and a sweetcorn), all were perfectly light and creamy, the perfect amuse bouche before our meal. Starters included a’ 62’ duck egg with Butternut Squash & Chorizo Jam’ – slowly poached to perfection, ‘Cured Scottish Salmon with Mooli & Exmoor Caviar’, a particularly memorable dish, subtly sweet with just the right amount of saltiness from the ‘caviar’, whilst ‘Beef Carpaccio with Kohlrabi & Pickled Shimiji’, was unusual and pickled to perfection!…For our main courses we enjoyed ‘Gigha Halibut with Cauliflower & Hazelnut’, this was cooked beautifully, with a crunchy nut crust whilst the cauliflower was lightly spiced, ‘Gressingham Duck with Red Cabbage & Puy Lentil’ was cooked ‘sous vide’ and was incredibly tender, finally ‘Pork Belly with Pigs Cheek & Peas Pudding’ – was ‘delicious’ with perfect crackling! To end our meal, after a refreshing pre-dessert (a Lemon Posset with Fennel and Blackberry), we enjoyed a ‘Christmas Pudding with Meejool Dates & Courvoisier Sauce’ which was more of a light sponge, so delicious that Nick decided to have it two evenings on the trot! There was also ‘72% Chocolate with Honeycomb & Manadarin’, which was a lovely, rich chocolate dessert cut by the subtle, bitter ‘marmalade’ flavours from the manadarin, and finally a ‘Passionfruit Cheesecake with Mango & Ginger’ which was fabulously creamy yet light and refreshing.
I would definitely like to revisit Yorebridge House in the spring/summer to enjoy a different seasons menu and to experience the beauty of the surrounding dales in the warm, fine weather. Although I would recommend a stay at this beautiful boutique hotel, you don’t have to stay at Yorebridge House to enjoy its food… so if you are visiting the Yorkshire Dales you must book a dinner at its wonderful restaurant!
October 2020
We returned to our local restaurant, Franklins, on Saturday night. Our ‘home from home’ – a local institution which rarely fails us. How lucky are we to have this restaurant serving quality, traditional British food on our doorstep. The menu is a meaty affair with earthy and robust flavours, often featuring game and offal, although it does offer fish and vegetarian plates. We have been eating at Franklins since it first opened, around 20 years ago, so it must be doing something right! Admittedly, it can occasionally disappoint, but more often than not the quality of the food is consistent. Situated in an old pub, the restaurant offers a casual dining experience, retaining its ‘pub’ atmosphere; it is a quintessential local, neighbourhood haunt.
On Saturday night, on entering, we were greeted by Boris Johnson, on the front of house TV, in the bar area (the dining area is at the back). He was announcing another national lockdown, this would probably be our last meal out for at least four weeks, so we were determined to enjoy ourselves!
We started our meal with a couple of cocktails – as Espresso Martini for me and of course a Negroni for Nick. For starters we had a ‘Pea & Mint Soup’, a bowl of warmth on what was a dreary, rainy day, and ‘Smoked Haddock Brandade & Piquillo Peppers’, the combination of the smoky fish and the sweet pepper was great, whilst the salad on which it sat was well dressed. Moving on to our main courses, Nick choose, ‘Ham Hock Hash & Fried Egg’, whilst I opted for the ‘Red leg Partridge, ‘Spiced Red Cabbage & Crab Apple Jelly’; earlier that day we had ventured out to Kent for a very wet walk, and having got lost a few times(!) we were pretty exhausted, so these main courses were definitely well deserved – perfect comfort food! Finally, desserts, I can never resist Franklin’s traditional desserts, on this occasion I opted for the ‘Chocolate Rice Pudding & Raspberries’ – a little ‘hug on a plate’, whilst Nick choose the ‘Bread & Butter Pudding’, which was “fantastic”.
So our ‘last supper out’ for a few of weeks did not disappoint! Franklins is an excellent neighbourhood restaurant that everyone needs and should have on their doorstep…
October 2020
We had a wonderful fine dining experience at the weekend, we returned to The Five Fields restaurant in Chelsea, and I must say that this Michelin starred restaurant, once again, did not disappoint. The Five Fields focuses on seasonal, British produce serving menus inspired by the seasons, in fact, a lot of the vegetables and herbs that they use are grown in their own kitchen garden in Sussex, something they are rightly proud of. Our waiters were particularly animated when describing our dishes, especially when the provenance of a certain ingredient, such as the celeriac we were eating, was from their own garden – it definitely made our dining experience more personal and it was encouraging to see the staff so engaged with the food that they were serving. The dining room is elegant and sophisticated, and most importantly small enough to retain a special, intimate atmosphere, which food of the calibre that they are serving, deserves.
Chef Taylor Bonnyman and his team are known for their beautiful, creative menus, and on the evening that we visited we could find no fault. The set tasting menu was perfectly executed (with gluten free options for me) – it was cooking at its best, creative yet not overly fussy, with superb flavour combinations. (Unfortunately my photos really do not do the food justice – I’m afraid I was more interested in enjoying the food rather than getting the right camera angle!!)
Our meal began with an array of canapes (salmon, leek, foie gras and oyster), they were the perfect amuse bouche before we moved onto the ‘Celeriac with Black Truffle & Pastrami’, it is difficult for me to describe the incredible flavour that this celeriac dish managed to deliver, it was sweet and meaty yet retained the lightness of the vegetable – I will never see celeriac in quite the same way! Our next course was ‘Turnip, Seaweed & Scallop’, an inspired combination, the turnip totally complemented the sweetness of the scallops, and the hint of saltiness from the seaweed was a fabulous finishing touch. Next up was ‘Brill with Velvet Crab and Monk’s Beard’ which was absolutely beautiful, the broth was exquisite. This was followed by ‘Fallow Deer with Jerusalem Artichoke & Pear’, I must say that the venison was one of the best I have tasted – it was extremely tender, cooked to perfection, and with the Jerusalem artichoke which was both puréed and lightly fried, it was a luxurious dish. To prepare us for our dessert we were served ‘Honey, Milk and Marzipan’, a milk ice cream with delicate marzipan ‘flowers’, drizzled with their own rich and floral Sussex honey. Our main dessert, ‘Plum, Elderberry & Sake Lees’, was essentially a plum tart but one which would be difficult to match, the slightly sticky plum ‘flower’ was presented in a crisp tart with a delicious custard which was salted to perfection. Finally, with our coffee we were presented with petits fours – what a perfect end!
Throughout our meal the service was impeccable yet friendly and unpretentious, the staff seemed genuinely proud and invested in the food that they were serving. Our sommelier particularly deserves a mention, we had wine by the glass, he presented us with wine choices which complemented the courses wonderfully, yet were not ridiculously priced.
So what else can I add but ‘Wow’ …and that I think that this restaurant deserves more than one Michelin star!!…
I would recommend that you treat yourselves – a visit to The Five Fields would make a wonderful Christmas present!
October 2020
If you live in South London, you will probably know or would have heard of the restaurant, Chez Bruce. Chez Bruce is a gem in South London’s restaurant scene, situated on Wandsworth Common it first opened its doors in 1995 with the intention of ‘serving the best food and drink but within a relaxed, informal yet professional environment’, it has certainly achieved its goal and 25 years later is still as successful as ever. I must admit, that as a South Londoner myself, I have been a customer for most of those 25 years, and have never been disappointed with the food – now that is an achievement!
A couple of weeks ago Nick and I enjoyed our first Sunday lunch there since before lockdown and I was so happy to see that little had changed. In fact we were planning to return at the weekend for dinner with friends, but unfortunately due to London entering tier two of Covid restrictions we had to cancel our reservation. However, I am happy to be able to share our fantastic Sunday lunch visit with you.
Chez Bruce serves a modern menu of food based loosely on classical and regional French/ Mediterranean cuisine. The price is fixed for 3 courses, depending on whether you are having lunch or dinner and on which day – the Sunday lunch option at £50 is a particularly good choice. The restaurant itself maintains a lovely neighbourhood feel, its simple dining room has a relaxed interior, with service which is on a par with any top Michelin starred restaurant in town.
On arrival for our Sunday lunch we were pleased to see that everything seemed to be as great as ever; it’s the little extras that Chez Bruce exceeds in, for instance, on receiving the menu you are also presented with their light, crisp parmesan biscuits (and for those who are gluten free, like me, toasted spiced nuts – very moreish!). After these and a cheeky lunchtime glass of champagne, we were more than ready to tuck into our starters, for me, ‘Loch Duart Salmon Rillettes with Horseradish, Smoked Salmon, Potato, Beetroot and Dill’, it was a winning combination of classic flavours and beautiful textures. Nick chose one of the restaurants classics, ‘Foie Gras and Chicken Parfait with Toasted Brioche’ – creamy and fantastic, as always! Moving on to our mains, I wanted something autumnal to suit the outside, blustery Sunday afternoon, so it had to be the ‘Venison Loin with Glazed Game Burger, Cabbage à l’ancienne and Celeriac Purèe’, it was exactly what I wanted, ‘a proper plate of food’! Nick couldn’t resist the ‘Roast Beef with Dripping Roasties, Crushed Squash, Stuffed Mushroom and Yorkshire Pudding’, with its refined flavours it was an elegant take on the traditional English roast. Finally, desserts, Nick opted for Chez Bruce’s classic ‘Hot Chocolate Pudding with Praline Parfait’, as always a winner, whilst I had the ‘Baked Cheesecake with Rum & Raisin Ice Cream and Candied Peel’ – honestly, I think that this was the real winner!
Eating at Chez Bruce is a win-win event and, is thus, money well spent, plus the complimentary chocolate truffles at the end of the meal are more than worth the visit!
October 2020
This weekend, Nick and I went over to Columbia Road in Hackney, for a stroll and to browse around some of the independent, very ‘on trend ‘ shops. One of these shops included the pop up boutique, Studio Wylder, which belongs to my old friend, Tasha, in which she sells her own designs, including gorgeous one off sheep skin jackets, hand sewn bags and jewellery. It was really refreshing to be around this energetic area of London and, of course, it gave us the perfect excuse to revisit ‘Brawn’, Columbia Road’s neighbourhood restaurant. Situated on a corner plot in a converted warehouse, Brawn’s dining room, a light filled space with a casual interior, was perfect for our lunchtime jaunt. As on our previous, pre-lockdown visits, we found that the atmosphere was ‘buzzy’ and friendly, and most importantly, that the food was delicious.
The menu is seasonal, with lots of interesting flavours such as the starter of ‘Raw Scallop, Almond, Apple, Sorrel & Horseradish’, which was delicious with beautifully balanced flavours. We also shared a platter of Coppa which was really fresh and flavoursome, and ‘Gnocco Fritto, Schiena’, little pieces of lightly fried dough also wrapped in Coppa, these were very light and moreish. For my main course I chose the ‘Partridge, Rainbow Chard, Quince, Lentils & Pancetta’, it was good, the quince really held this dish together with its slight sweetness which complemented the saltiness of the lentils, however, I must admit to having ‘plate envy’ for Nick’s chosen course, ‘Onglet, Fried Violet Artichokes, Shallots, Anchovy & Chicory’, the flavours of this were divine; the deep fried artichokes particularly stood out. Finally desserts, an amazing ‘Chocolate Tart’ – the fondant was smooth whilst the pastry base was crisp and light, and a ‘Vanilla Rice Pudding, Figs, Walnuts & Boozy Prunes’ – need I say more?…it was a perfect autumn afternoon hug!
Although Brawn isn’t necessarily cheap, it is the type of place where you could pop in for just one course with a glass of wine to simply enjoy the casual, friendly dining room (they have an interesting wine list of mostly biodynamic wines). It definitely isn’t a bad place to while away an afternoon or an evening!…
September 2020
Following the recommendation posted on the Instagram page of one of my favourite cookbook writers, Diana Henry, we tried a new restaurant last week, Daffodil Mulligan.
By its own admission Daffodil Mulligan ‘embodies the heart, soul and mischief of the Irish, but with international food influences’, I was intrigued to see what this meant exactly!…I must admit on entering the restaurant I was a little sceptical, as it was rather like a modern American bar with tables, not my preferred choice of interior, whilst the ambience was quite lively and rather noisy. When seated at our table we were hit by how cold it was, and looking around we noticed that most people were wearing their layers – the woman seated near to me was wearing her partner’s jacket! When I asked the waiter if it was possible to turn down the air conditioning he apologised, saying that it wasn’t possible and that it was something to do with Covid(?) – I must admit I didn’t actually catch the full explanation as it was muffled by his mask!…Anyway I ended up wearing my leather jacket throughout the evening.
So all in all not the best start to our night out! But, of course we were there for the food and that didn’t disappoint …
We started our meal with a couple of ‘Old Fashioned’ cocktails – they were really well made, properly with bourbon rather than whiskey (my pet hate), so this definitely warmed us up – a bit!
The menu has lots of small tasting plates as starters, in this way the restaurant is more suited to groups of friends rather than couples, as you really do want to share as many as possible – they all sounded delicious. Nick and I shared the Salt Chilli Chicken with Cucumber Pickles and Beef Tartare with Oyster Cream, they were generous portions; both were really unusual, delicious and moreish. For our main courses , I choose the ‘Hannan’s Sugar Spit Pork, Swiss Chard, Gochujang & Smoked Tomato’, the pork was seriously good, literally falling of the bone, it had a beautiful sweet, smoked flavour subtly spiced with the gochujang (the only regret I have is that my waiter didn’t advise me to order a side dish, which it needed, as it was literally just a piece of meat with a few leaves of rainbow chard). Nick chose the ‘Prawn Goan Curry with Ginger & Mango Salsa’, an unusual choice for him, one which the waiter had recommended as they had run out of the sirloin that he had wanted(!), it was good but not groundbreaking, probably not the best choice. Desserts were superb, I had ‘Wood Fire Fig, Brown Sugar Meringue, Mascarpone & Autumn Spice Ice Cream’ – the figs were unusually spiced and beautifully complemented by the brown sugar meringue, Nick had the fantastic ‘Caramel Crème with Tipsy Prunes & Sable’ – the prunes soaked in Armagnac were the winner here!.
So, would I recommend Daffodil Mulligan?…from a food perspective definitely – I’m pleased to say that, unsurprisingly, Diana Henry was right on this level! However, if you do visit I would recommend you do so with friends, it’s not really suited to couples both from the noise level and from the point of view that being in a group would allow you to share more of the delicious starters! Finally, make sure you wear a couple of layers as the air conditioning is a killer!…
September 2020
A word of advice to anyone starting a new relationship – make note of the smallest of anniversaries as they will give you the excuse to celebrate in the future! Hence last week, Nick and I had the perfect excuse to treat ourselves to dinner at Clarke’s; we celebrated our ‘first meeting’ anniversary (28yrs!). Sally Clarke’s restaurant, Clarke’s, first opened its doors in 1984 and it has been a highly regarded resident of North Kensington since, winning much critical acclaim. Indeed, I remember that when I was a student living in Notting Hill, my bus route used to pass the restaurant and I always dreamed of eating there, but in those days it was way beyond the realms of my student budget. Fortunately I can now afford to treat myself! Clarke’s menu prides itself on using the best, seasonal ingredients and our meal last week was as fresh as ever; even though the plates seem simple, the flavours are very sophisticated, and I should point out that the photos I have taken do not do the food justice!
Entering the restaurant, you almost instantly feel like your worries are left at the door; the warm, classically designed room creates a welcoming ambience whilst the staff are very attentive, without being oppressive. The icing on the cake for me is the white tablecloths – as I’ve mentioned before, I do love a white clothed table – it gives that sense of occasion that I yearn for when eating out in a restaurant of a certain calibre.
On the evening of our visit, the menu had early autumn overtones, which was perfect as the weather had suddenly dropped 8 degrees! For my first course I chose a Salad of Burrata with Purple Figs, Sussex Leaves and Toasted Cobnuts, whilst Nick chose the Home Made Foie Gras with Onion Marmalade, Celery, Radishes and Baguette – both were beautifully seasonal with clean flavours, they were a great start to our meal. For his main course, Nick had the Grilled Correze Veal Chop with Padron Peppers and Baked Fennel, Baked Heritage Carrots and Bitter Leaves; the size of the chop was impressive, a T-bone cut, cooked to perfection whilst the baked fennel was particularly outstanding. My main course was the Rhug Estate Fallow Deer Loin Roasted with Purple Plums and Fresh Walnut, Rainbow Chard, Root Vegetables and Spelt, the venison was beautifully cooked and its gamey flavour (fallow deer can often be particularly gamey), was cut with the sweetness of the plums whilst the rainbow chard was really delicious – I made a personal note to myself to cook this vegetable more at home! Finally desserts, Soft Meringue with Chocolate Ice-Cream and Honeycomb – a seriously good meringue, very chewy, just how I like it, and a Cheesecake which was incredibly light.
Clarke’s is by no means a cheap restaurant but it is definitely money well spent, they also offer a great set lunch, £29.50 for two courses which would be a great introduction to their beautiful, seasonal food. You must find an excuse to treat yourselves!
September 2020
We returned last week with friends to Lorne, a lovely restaurant that we discovered a few years back. Its location, on the backstreets near to Victoria station, gives this restaurant a ‘neighbourhood’ feel, which I really like. It has a lovely light, clean interior that lends itself to a casual atmosphere yet the food is very special. I was pleased to find that post lockdown, during our Friday evening visit, it seemed to be ‘busy’, and that the service was, as always, friendly and attentive. Most importantly their modern British menu was as pleasing as ever.
We started our meal with a couple of aperitifs, a Lorne Aperitif for me, which was a combination of white port, rosemary and Chartreuse, it was little like a fresh sherry but with a more elegant finish; it was an unusual choice for me but was a perfect beginning to our wonderful meal. Nick opted for a Negroni which was apparently one of the best he’s had in a long time – coming from the ‘Negroni connoisseur’, this was an excellent compliment!
Moving on to our first course we opted for a white Burgandy, which our waitress recommended, it was fabulous and complimented our food perfectly… For our first courses we chose Roast Quail, Celeriac, Pear, Hazelnut Pesto & Endive, I loved the sweetness of the pear which was cut by the hazelnut – a very light and fresh dish, whilst the Chanterelle, King Oyster Mushroom and Wakame Seaweed Tart, Leek Fondue & Crispy Kale, ticked all the boxes. For our main courses, the Guinea Fowl Breast, Pied de Mouton, Purple Sprouting Broccoli & Sweetcorn, was ‘stunning’. The Roast Sea Bass, Curried Cauliflower Purée, Rainbow Chard, Dukkah & Cornish Mids, was well presented; I felt that it could have benefited from a light ‘jus’ as it was a slightly dry, but I must admit the flavours, particularly the rainbow chard and the purée, were really delicious. Finally the desserts, these really were the winners of the meal; Roast Fig Tart, Honeycomb, Cream Cheese & Fig Leaf Ice Cream, ‘fabulous’, and Chocolate & Blackberry Mousse with Mint Chocolate Chip Ice Cream, an unusual but fantastic combination of flavours which truly hit the spot!
Lorne, with its unassuming exterior and location is a true ‘gem’, a restaurant which has the winning combination of an unpretentious atmosphere and a creative menu which is light but packed with lots of flavour.
September 2020
I celebrated another friend’s big ‘5’ ‘0’ last weekend(!), we marked the occasion with a day out in the New Forest. My friend now lives in the area, so her London friends, myself included, took the train down to have a celebratory lunch at the Pig, Brockenhurst.
The Pig, Brockenhurst, describes itself as a restaurant with rooms, and since opening in 2011 it has opened other similar ‘Pig’ establishments in the south of England. Their ‘simple and honest’ philosophy is to serve food using only produce that they can grow in their own kitchen garden or source within 25 miles of the restaurant.
The train from London to Brockenhurst is direct, just under two hours. From there the Pig is a fifteen minute taxi drive, so it is a very ‘do-able’ day trip from the city. Fortunately, my friend could drive the five of us around (masked up!), so first of all, to whet our appetites and loosen our limbs after our train ride, we drove over to the nearby coastline to have a short, bracing beach walk before our lunch.
After that, we most definitely deserved a cocktail, so on arrival at the Georgian country house which is now home to the Pig, we took our aperitifs on their front lawn, enjoying the last of the summer sun. The grounds are lovely and include their impressive kitchen garden, I didn’t get the chance to see it on this occasion, but have seen it on a previous visit!
The restaurant itself, the Greenhouse Restaurant, so called for its shabby chic, conservatory setting, is in the heart of the house. It serves ‘British kitchen garden food’ focused on simple and fresh flavours, the ambiance is relaxed, and in my opinion, particularly suited to small groups of families and friends. To start our lunch, we all opted for the Pickled Mackerel salad, it was a good choice with fresh flavours. Moving on to our main course we enjoyed the Lamb Barnsley Chop with Chargrilled Courgette, which was served with a rich and flavoursome gravy, very British and very tasty – if I am absolutely honest I would have preferred it cooked a little more pink, however it was still delicious. Finally, for dessert, Baked Plums with Ewes Milk Curd – sweet and salty, it was a good end to a very satisfying lunch which had uncomplicated, fresh and honest flavours.
So, I am pleased to give you another recommendation- if you fancy a day out in the New Forest, The Pig, Brockenhurst would be a good spot for lunch with the possibility of walk in the woods nearby, alternatively you could choose to have a weekend break and stay overnight in one of their rooms!…
September 2020
This week it was my son Felix’s birthday so naturally I had another excuse to dine out in style! The Wolseley Café & Restaurant, has been a family favourite of ours since it opened in 2003 (when Felix was just three!), over the years we have enjoyed either breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea or dinner there on various occasions, and so for Felix’s birthday we decided to return for the first time since lockdown.
The Wolseley has a fascinating history, originally built on Piccadilly in the 1920’s as a car showroom (for Wolseley Motors), the interior was designed to impress with marble pillars, archways and a high domed ceiling. Now transformed into the dining room of the Wolseley Restaurant, it is possible to appreciate this wonderful, unique architecture, indeed, it is for this reason that the dining room is one of my favourites in London. It is always buzzing whatever time of day, admittedly, being in the heart of London, it can be touristy, but in my opinion this adds to its cosmopolitan charm, whilst the chance of spotting a familiar famous face, always injects a little extra buzz; over the years I’ve spotted various celebs, and on this recent occasion Zoe Wanamaker was dining close by. The food has never let me down, it is not necessarily outstanding but always well done. It is a brasserie style menu with classic dishes such as ‘steak tartare’, ‘ coq au vin’ and ‘Chateaubriand’.
So on this, our first visit since Covid started, I was keen to see how the Wolseley was faring in a quieter central London. On entering, I was happy to see that the old buzz was surviving, although it was slightly quieter with more spaces between diners, it was as charming as ever with its beautifully laid tables and attentive service.
After cocktails (including my favourite espresso martini and Nick’s negroni), we moved on to first courses, ‘Dressed Dorset Crab’ and ‘Seared Scallops with Pommes Mousseline & Garlic Butter’; both very delicious, and a Cocktail of Prawns & Avocado, which was good but not quite matching the high standard of the one I had a few weeks ago at Foxhill Manor! Our second courses were Holstein Schnitzel (with anchovies, capers and a fried egg), Cannon of Salt Marsh Lamb and an Entrecote Steak, all were beautifully cooked. Finally desserts, an Apple Strudel which was particularly scrumptious and a Chocolate Pot du Crème which although was rather plain to look at was exceptionally good. In conclusion the food did not disappoint, our bill was on the expensive side as we did choose the most extravagant starters but then we were celebrating! I would undoubtedly recommend the Wolseley, you don’t necessarily need to go there for a full blown meal like we did, you could just do breakfast or a light lunch, it’s worth visiting for the combination of food, service and atmosphere – the Wolseley is a great treat, it is almost like stepping into a bygone era!
Trinity, Clapham, South London
August 2020
Over the next few weeks I will be celebrating a number of birthdays of friends and family…so I have the perfect excuse to eat out! This week it was my friend’s big ‘5’ ‘0’, so we decided to treat ourselves to a fine dining experience at Trinity, Adam Byatts restaurant which is local to us in Clapham. I have been fortunate to celebrate a number of special occasions in the past at Trinity and I was pleased to see that post lockdown, under the new Covid conditions, that it was still buzzing with energy. We ate in the Michelin starred restaurant downstairs, but there is also a more casual dining room upstairs which serves small plates designed to share (I haven’t tried this yet but it is on my ‘to eat out list’…watch this space!). Downstairs the dining room is a lovely, bright modern space with white tableclothed tables (I love a white tablecloth!), it is all very stylish but still manages to retain the charm of a neighbourhood restaurant.
I am pleased to say that the food was, once again, ‘show stopping’, not only well presented, but bursting with beautiful flavours. The dinner menu is a four course menu. For my first course I had Poached Salmon, Dressed Summer Beans, Cockles & Lovage, the salmon was beautifully cooked whilst the subtle flavour of the lovage and the bright, fresh flavours of the cockles and beans really lifted the plate. We also tried the Salad of Beetroots, Cherries and Graceburn, Rye Bread and White Soy – which was equally delicious. Second courses were Buttered Cornish Crab with Provençal Tomatoes, Gazpacho & Fig Oil – the light gazpacho was particularly memorable, and the Norfolk Quail with Scottish Girolles & Summer Squash was apparently ‘incredible’. Third course was Wild Turbot braised with Tomatoes & Fennel Lyonnaise; the aniseed flavours of the fennel took this dish to a superior level, we also chose Stuffed & Pot Roasted Sutton Hoo Chicken, Ceps, Leeks & Summer Truffle – exquisite. Finally the fourth course was Fig Leaf Soft Serve Ice Cream – a connoisseurs ‘Mr Whippy’ ice-cream, seriously smooth and creamy with a gorgeous fig syrup, and also a Savarin with Blood Peaches – ‘heavenly’. We enjoyed all of this wonderfully executed food with a beautifully, well balanced, White Burgundy wine. What a wonderful evening…it was one of those meals that you would like to return to and savour all over again!
So if you haven’t already tried Trinity, I definitely recommend that you put it on your ‘to visit’ list – either the main restaurant, where we dined, or ‘upstairs’ for a less formal menu – I am sure you won’t be disappointed!
August 2020
We enjoyed a trip to Rye at the weekend, I must admit that we hadn’t been there for some years and had quite forgotten it’s wonderful charm and character. We had a lovely stroll around its streets, some of which are cobbled, and were enchanted by is crooked, half timbered medieval houses and it’s quaint Norman church. Staying the night with friends who live nearby, we enjoyed a wonderful dinner at the restaurant of Tillingham , a natural and biodynamic wine producer in nearby Peasmarsh.
Tillingham, first and foremost a vineyard and farm, opened a restaurant with rooms in their stylishly converted barn last September. Downstairs there is a wine bar serving their own wine and those of their favourite producers, and upstairs there is a restaurant; a wonderful, modern space with views across the vineyards. Outside, in the middle of their ‘farmyard’, they have converted a dutch barn into an outside kitchen and a terrace, where they serve pizzas.
The restaurant, where we dined, serves a set menu and is open Wednesday to Saturday night, but after speaking with the owner it seems they are contemplating also opening for Sunday lunch – which would be great for us London day trippers!…
We enjoyed a fantastic meal, starting with a Salad of Tomato, Goats Curd & Herbs – the flavours were beautifully lifted by the addition of the dill and mint. This was followed by Pappardelle with Courgette & Cora Linn (a salty sheep’s milk cheese). As I am gluten free I didn’t have this dish (although my fellow diners assured me it was delicious), instead I was served a Warm Salad of Lentils with Courgette, Beans and the aforementioned Cora Linn – it was extremely good, with salty overtones from the cheese. For our main course we enjoyed Roast Romney Lamb from Suffolk, with Green Beans, Dijon & Almonds; a simple dish but with beautiful, clean flavours. We opted for the additional cheese course, Brightwell Ash Goats Cheese with Sourdough Crisps and Pickled Cherries, I had never tasted pickled cherries before, and I discovered that they are a lovely, tangy accompaniment to a creamy cheese. Finally for dessert, we tucked into Baked Plums and Strawberries with a dollop of thick cream – a truly tasty, British pudding! Our meal was complemented by bottles of their Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir, both bioganic wines, which although still very young and rather crisp, complemented the simple yet very tasty flavours of our food.
I would definitely recommend Tillingham for dinner and very much hope they decide to open for Sunday lunch, as not only would it be an easy day trip out of London but also, during the day, we would really be able to appreciate the views across its vineyards on to Romney Marsh and out to the sea. It is possible to stay the night, they have 11 rooms, I must admit that I did not personally see them, however, looking at their website, they seem to be stylishly designed.
So there you have it, a perfect excuse for a weekend getaway in which you can enjoy great food in-house and the beautiful countryside around this corner of East Sussex – I particularly recommend a stroll around Rye and Winchelsea, while there are some great coastal walks nearby!
The Cotswolds
August 2020
This year like most of you, our summer holiday plans have been scuppered. Due to the current COVID-19 restrictions we decided to not venture abroad but stay closer to home. The Cotswolds is home to many boutique hotels and not too far from London, so we chose this area as our destination for our mini break. We wanted to be spoilt, and more than anything we wanted the food be top quality – we wanted a break in ‘Foodie Heaven’. After a lot of discussion we chose to stay in two hotels, one, Foxhill Manor for 3 nights and the other, Thyme Hotel, for two nights.
I thought that, as we have a common love for food, that I would share some of my experiences. I do not claim to be a food critic, this is just my personal experience of eating out and staying at these establishments; I will admit that reviewing is a learning curve, more than anything I found remembering to take photos of the food before tucking in the most difficult part!… You will see evidence of this in my photos – both the lack of photos of certain plates and the inclusion of half eaten ones!
We had, in fact, already had the pleasure of staying at Foxhill Manor for a weekend last year, pre-pandemic, and our decision to return for a second visit is testament to the success of our first visit. Foxhill Manor’s motto ‘whatever you fancy, wherever you fancy it’, is a true invitation to be spoilt. With only eight bedrooms this hotel offers tranquillity, yet as part of the Farncombe Estate it has plenty of private land to explore as well as two sister hotels, The Dormy House and The Fish which offer a change of scenery (and a spa) if needed. For us the main attraction of this hotel is the concept of their service and restaurant, all guests are invited to chat with the chef who will design a dinner based on what you fancy and the availability of the freshest, local and seasonal ingredients. When we visited the first time, we were not expecting such a personal approach to the food, we were very impressed with this concept and the incredible standard of the cooking. So returning under Covid conditions would be a little risky as obviously the atmosphere was bound to be different, but we were willing to take the chance…
Our Experience and the Food:
Before arriving at Foxhill Manor last week, Nick and I had already been discussing with great enthusiasm what we would be asking the chef to cook us. It had become a ‘last supper’ conversation and we were becoming rather confused about what we really wanted!…In the end we decided that at some point we would like a rack of lamb, and Nick also fancied a dover sole but apart from that we thought it best to allow the chef to guide us with his suggestions.
We were not disappointed by his recommendations. On our first evening we enjoyed foie gras which was subtly flavoured with ginger and pear, whilst our main course, the rack of lamb we had requested, was served with a light, summer white wine jus with some delicious dauphinoise potatoes. Dessert was a very elegant take on the flavours of Eton mess; cream was encased in meringue set beside a strawberry sorbet and fresh strawberries combined with a mint and thyme syrup. Although thunderstorms were on the forecast, the sun continued to shine for us and we ate al fresco, enjoying a glass of champagne followed by a bottle of a Gevrey-Chambertin, which perfectly complemented the lamb – how perfect England can be when the sun shines!…Of course, in a very British way, the weather didn’t last for us and the following day the rain forced us inside to dine – not a bad thing in any case considering that the interior of Foxhill is so beautifully designed. The next two days we continued to be spoilt eating an array of dishes – all executed to a very high standard. As starters we enjoyed a light and refreshing crab salad with fennel, also mackerel with a wasabi cream and, on another occasion, an incredible prawn cocktail – I must admit that it was probably one of, if not the best, that I have eaten – with a mixture of shrimps, prawns and crayfish in a light marie rose sauce. As main courses, Nick had his pre-ordered dover sole simply grilled, but to perfection, whilst I enjoyed a sea bass with a tomato butter sauce, it’s vibrant colours along with fresh broad beans was a feast for the eyes and my taste buds confirmed that the flavours were just as vibrant. The following evening I chose pork loin with a confit of pork shoulder with black pudding (incredible!) served with a light apple jus whilst Nick chose a ribeye steak. Desserts included a chocolate fondant with white chocolate ‘aero’, a sticky toffee pudding, a cheesecake with apple and pecan nuts and a memorable peanut parfait.
It wasn’t difficult to relax into the ‘Foxhill” lifestyle, apart from having to wear our masks around the indoor public corridors, we were happy to see that little had changed since our last visit. Foxhill Manor is by no means cheap, however the price is all-inclusive, including champagne 24-7(!). Rooms are spectacular, each one is beautifully designed, huge and well appointed (we stayed in Chestnut). It’s not surprising that our days at Foxhill revolved around food and drink, so much so that we really did very little other than enjoy relaxing in our beautiful surroundings, we had originally planned to take a few walks but initially with the overbearing heat from the surprise heatwave it seemed silly to push ourselves and even when the weather turned to the normal damp English weather to which we’re accustomed, we chose to relax in our surroundings, after all, once you’re at Foxhill, why on earth would you want to leave?!…
After our three nights at Foxhill we were rather sad to be leaving, and a little apprehensive about how Thyme would compare. Once again our main attraction to Thyme was its reputation for its food. Their chef, Charlie Hibbert, is well respected and highly regarded for his farm-based and plant-inspired menu at the Ox Barn, Thyme’s main restaurant. Thyme describes itself as ‘a village within a village’, situated on the Southrop Estate they have a gastro pub, a cocktail bar named rather cleverly ‘Baa’(!), a shop, pool, spa, the aforementioned Ox Barn restaurant, and of course the hotel; all are surrounded by the greenery of its working farm.
Our Experience and the Food:
I must say that entering Thyme’s grounds, even in the summer drizzle was quite spectacular, the estate drive takes you from the picturesque village of Southrop through their fields of black sheep to their ‘village’ of stylishly renovated farm buildings. We were greeted by friendly staff and were initially very impressed as we were shown around the property – all beautifully designed with modern rustic flare. However, when we entered our room we were rather underwhelmed. We had been expecting that the room, in comparison to our Foxhill palatial suite, would be a simpler affair, but we were rather taken aback by how small and tired looking it was. There was no wardrobe, just a small rail in a cubby hole with four coat hangers, the bathroom was tiny and the rug was water stained (we were soon to discover why..). We were willing to ignore these ‘niggles’, but our disappointment was to turn to frustration when using the shower before dinner we discovered that it caused the bathroom to seriously flood – probably the reason for those water stains on the rug! On the way to dinner we mentioned to the hotel reception the problem and hoped they could remedy it – or at least remove the sopping wet towels we had used to mop up the floor. Returning to our room after dinner we were bemused to find that the wet towels were still on the floor; given that the price of the room was not that much cheaper than Foxhill Manor (particularly when you add on the extra charges for breakfast and dinner), we decided to cut our losses and check out early the next day! Certainly, our bedroom needed to be updated, but you get the feeling that staying guests are not Thyme’s priority. The problem is, that it seems to be a restaurant and a cookery school with rooms rather than vice versa, and thus you feel like you’re staying in a B&B on a stunning estate, but paying rates of a luxury hotel.
Our dining experience at Thyme was fortunately more positive. The Ox Barn is an impressive room with an incredible high, beamed ceiling. The atmosphere is energetic, the restaurant takes bookings from non-staying guests and it is obviously a popular local venue. I must admit that I was rather pleased that Covid restricted the number of guests, as I feel that it might have been a little too noisy under normal circumstances. The food was executed to a high standard – a fennel, blue cheese & apple salad and a porchetta tonnato, then as main courses, hogget (aged lamb) pea, anchovy & parsley sauce and roast pork with borlotti beans & sauce vierge, finally for dessert, gooseberry ice cream and an almond tart. However despite the presentation and the individual ingredients being impressive, the flavours were rather underwhelming, both Nick and I both agreed that there was ‘something’ missing, and that our lunch experience earlier that day at the ‘Wild Rabbit’ (review below) was much better. Perhaps if our dinner hadn’t been preceded by the ‘shame of the shower’ we would have been more forgiving – the flavours of food, in my opinion, are generally linked to an overall experience.
So our escape to ‘foodie heaven’ was generally a success, undoubtedly I would recommend Foxhill Manor, although to eat there you have to stay there – so it would be an expensive meal! You can, however, dine as a non-staying guest, at their sister hotel, The Dormy House; we had our first lunch here, and both enjoyed a beautiful piece of salmon; I would definitely dine there again. Obviously, I cannot recommend a stay at Thyme Hotel on the back of our experience – I’m truly gutted to say this, as the staff were genuinely welcoming and the grounds stunning. But if I was passing by again, I would definitely give its Ox Barn restaurant a second chance, it would be a good lunch option.
The Wild Rabbit, Kingham, Cotswolds
August 2020
Situated in Kingham, Oxfordshire and owned by the Daylesford Estate, this restaurant was one of the highlights of our Cotswold food adventure. Kingham is a picturesque Cotswold village, which unlike some of the more well known villages in the neighbouring area is not as touristy so retains its original charm. The Wild Rabbit has a lovely, welcoming dining room with an open kitchen, we were made to feel very much at home by its friendly and professional staff, the service was extremely good and most importantly the food was first class and well presented. Unfortunately, on the day that we lunched, we had had a huge breakfast at Foxhill Manor(!), so we didn’t order starters but looking around the dining room I noticed that they all looked delicious. We did however enjoy the complimentary house crudité and bread; I was particularly impressed that they had a homemade gluten free option for me, these days it is still unusual for even the top restaurants to serve quality, homemade gluten free bread – something I find frustrating and disappointing seeing as it is not difficult to produce. For our main courses we ordered venison wellington and turbot with braised lettuce & peas, both were absolutely delicious – five star! We shared a dessert, a poached white peach with raspberries & vanilla cream, fresh and fragrant – a real joy.
I would without doubt recommend The Wild Rabbit. We have since discovered that the village of Kingham has a station which has direct links to London Paddington, so in fact it is quite possible to take a day trip to Kingham, have a country walk and finish off with a late lunch at the Wild Rabbit before returning home on the train – we will be browsing the train timetables soon!…
Menu Mistress 