Not only do I love cooking at home, but I also enjoy eating out. Here are some reviews of restaurants I have enjoyed; I only review those that I would recommend as life is too short to write about bad food!!…
*I’d love to hear about any restaurants you would recommend – contact me here!…
October 2025
Angelina restaurant opened to rave reviews back in 2019. Until now, I hadn’t eaten there, as to be honest, I wasn’t completely sold on the idea of their Italian-Japanese fusion menu. Although I enjoy Asian fusion food, I questioned this Italian-Japanese combo. Then, more recently, a ‘friend of a friend’ with Japanese roots was raving about it, and then the same happened with an Italian friend. So, I thought, if they could handle the mix of their country’s flavours, I certainly could…
The restaurant can be found, like a lot of London’s new, cutting-edge restaurants, in the East End, to be precise, on Dalston Lane. The interior is casually sophisticated. There’s an open kitchen and bar seating with hanging Japanese lanterns whilst tables are elegantly topped with ‘Italian’ marble – the combination is stylish, subtly reflecting the Japanese-Italian theme. The atmosphere is chilled and on-trend, perfect for East End fashionistas. They serve one ‘Kaiseki’ menu, which is a set menu consisting of thirteen dishes that change depending on the availability of the best seasonal ingredients. With no written menu available to take away, it’s been up to my taste buds to remember exactly what we ate – thankfully there were quite a few memorable dishes!.. The first couple of dishes were a selection of canapés which included ‘Seaweed & Squid Crackers’, these were salty bites with a slightly sweet flavour, they were very moreish – it was a shame there was just one each! ‘Lobster & Chicken Skin on Custard’ was wonderfully light, managing to balance creamy custard with the sweet lobster and the crispy, umami flavour of chicken skin. This was followed by a couple of incredibly fresh dishes, ‘Ceviche with Citrus Juices’ and ‘Peach Salad’. They sang with fresh flavour and were served with a seaweed focaccia, yes, that beautiful punch of salt again – they’re good at that! ‘Pasta Rolled with Sausage with Seafood Crudo’ was a definite nod to their Italian roots. Let’s face it, sausage and pasta can do no wrong together, and the addition of the crudo of seafood gave the dish a sweet edge; it was a winning combo. Our final savoury dish was ‘Tuna, Anchovy & Salsa Verde’. I feared that the salty anchovy would overpower the tuna, but in true Angelina style, it was a well-balanced and delicious dish. Finally, three dessert dishes: ‘Green Tea Cake’, that was a sophisticated nod to Japanese matcha, a moist ‘Pistachio cake’ with a dash of pistachio cream that was, of course, Italian-inspired, and a crowd-pleasing scoop of ‘Chocolate Ice-cream’ – simply because, how can a restaurant with Italian leanings not have gelato on the menu?… and of course, everyone loves chocolate!
By the end of the meal we were totally sold on the concept of Italian-Japanese fusion food. Unlike me, don’t put off eating at Angelina for too long. The set menu, at just £68 a head, is a steal for the quality of food and the innovative style with which it is served!..
July 2025
Last week Nick celebrated being yet another year older! It was a particularly beautiful summer’s evening which was made even better by the fact that we were celebrating at Restaurant St Barts. The setting was dreamy, our table looked out onto the historic St Bartholomew the Great, London’s oldest surviving church, which looked glorious under the early evening sun. In comparison to the medieval view, the interior of Restaurant St Barts is wonderfully modern with concrete walls softened by natural wooden floors and furnishings. It’s a calm, serene, ‘Scandi’ styled interior and a great dining space, particularly for a special occasion!
Dinner at Restaurant St Bart starts in the lounge bar, where the journey through their twelve-course tasting menu begins. It’s a journey that takes you through the British Isles, showcasing the very best produce available. They’re passionate about championing home-grown produce, and as we travelled through the menu, it was astonishing to taste the great lengths they go to in order to achieve this. Over our cocktails (the Negroni was particularly good!), our waitress presented us with a wax-sealed menu which could be opened or left intact so that our meal was a complete surprise – we already felt that we were in good hands, so it was left unopened until after our last course! The first four courses, which were canapé-style snacks, were served in the aforementioned lounge bar. They were all excellent. My personal favourite, the ‘Duck Liver Parfait’, served on a crisp, nutty biscuit base, was light yet incredibly indulgent! After this selection of ‘amuse bouche’, we were shown to our table and ‘that view’ – we were seated beside the floor-to-ceiling windows that looked out onto the cloisters of the medieval St Barts, it was truly stunning. It was with this tranquil vista that our flavoursome journey continued… Stand out dishes were the ‘Scallop & Mangalitza Pork’, the sweetness from the scallop was balanced by the smoky, chargrilled tang of pork – together the flavours were spectacular. There was also ‘Peas, Lovage & Lardo’, the freshest, brightest peas served on a creamy custard, delivering deliciously fresh flavours. Whilst ‘Turbot, House Miso & British Citrus’ was an innovative dish which managed to champion British produce to make a Japanese-inspired course – it was a triumph of sweet, salty flavours with beautifully cooked fish. And ‘Roasted Ricotta & Berries’ was a tangy, subtly sweet pre-dessert which toyed with our palates, preparing them for the final dish… Dessert was ‘Black Koji & Barley,’ a very British ‘chocolate-inspired’ treat. Naturally, chocolate isn’t produced in the British Isles, and so, to keep to their commitment to showcase only British produce, the restaurant isn’t able to serve desserts containing chocolate(!). But this dessert was by no means a disappointment, it was again a truly innovative dish – sweet, malty and rich, who needs chocolate?!..
The tasting menu is a treat that doesn’t come cheap, and although innovative and well executed, some of the flavours do miss; however, it really is a great culinary adventure. And of course, there’s the setting, it’s an interior which must be the envy of many restaurateurs. You may be in the middle of London, but Restaurant St Bart offers a sanctuary of peace, serenity and flavour. (Tasting Menu £160/ Midweek Set Menu £120).
April 2025
I wasn’t aware of Rogues until I was taken there recently as a surprise treat. As you can imagine I’m rather fussy when it comes to restaurant choices and I admit that I was rather sceptical when I spotted Rogues from the outside; it’s rather uninspiring and its position on Hackney Rd is a little grim. However, my son, Felix, had done his research (as they say ‘the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree’!) and it turns out that he’d discovered a gem of a restaurant…
On entering you pass through a curtain to the surprise of a cosy, candle-lit dining room – the gritty street outside is very soon forgotten. Then there’s the incredibly warm, friendly welcome. It seems that the staff at Rogues are truly passionate about the food they serve. Seated at our table the waitress enthusiastically explained how the menu worked – there’s an a la carte menu from which you can order any quantity of sharing plates depending on how hungry you are or you can go all out and have the tasting menu which is a steal at around £65 a head. Naturally, we went all out and had the tasting menu! There were ten small courses and I must say that they were all delicious; I won’t bore you with the details of all ten plates but stand-out dishes that deserve a special mention included… ‘Cured Sea Trout with Orange, Sorrel and Sour Cream’ a wonderfully refreshing course in which trout was simply cured in citrusy juices with a dash of salty trout roe. The ‘Cod Collar with Monks Beard and Katsu Sauce’ was beautifully cooked – this cut of fish is normally undervalued but at Rogues they appreciate how wonderfully flavourful it is; served with the slightly bitter monks beard and the sweet tangy katsu sauce it was extraordinarily good. Meanwhile, the ‘Haunch of Venison with Creamed Parsnips, Cranberries and Turnip Tops’ was, for a meat-lover like myself, a show-stopping dish; once again the bitter-sweet flavours were perfectly balanced. Finally dessert, ‘Rhubarb, Magnolia, Pistachio and White Chocolate Trifle’… well who can say no to any rhubarb dessert?!
Before the meal had even finished, I was so impressed that I was googling ‘Who is behind the restaurant Rogues?… (and how had I not heard about it before?! ). Well, it turns out that the chefs, Freddie Sheen and Zac Whittle, had originally met in the kitchen of the fine-dining restaurant ‘Galvin La Chapelle’. Recognising that they shared similar cooking styles and ideas they decided to go ‘rogue’ with their very own restaurant concept. Although the style of food at Rogues is a more casual affair, the menu’s finely tuned flavours reflect their fine-dining roots. Without a doubt, it’s a testament to their talent that they’re able to serve a tasting menu that manages to be unpretentious yet stunningly good, plus is honestly priced. It’s a restaurant that deserves far more publicity and one which you should definitely visit!..
March 2025
Before the cookbook, there was the restaurant!..
I’ve shared a few of the recipes from the ‘Brutto’ cookbook, however, despite my best intentions, until just recently, I’d never eaten in the restaurant. Brutto is one of those restaurants where in order to secure a table you need to be organised. Bookings open 14 days in advance and woe betide those who aren’t able to book on the dot as reservations are quickly taken and for good reason…
Brutto is a trattoria with a Florentine-styled menu; a Tuscan dream and, even better, it’s in central London. The interior is very old-style Italian, rather like those you can imagine from the 1980s, with red gingham tablecloths and candles dribbling wax down wicker wine bottles. The atmosphere is lively; before visiting I noticed on their website a note – “We play music; combined with the buzz of lively conversation, it is often considered loud for some, but exactly how we like it” … Hmmm, I thought, it seems that it might be a little too lively?!… However, although you can definitely hear the music it’s not too intrusive, but I would say that Brutto is probably not a good choice for a first date! In addition to the music, the fun atmosphere is enhanced by the fact that they serve Negronis at £5 a shot! Then there’s the menu – their philosophy is simplicity and quality, Italian food at its best – it’s worth noting that almost all of the dishes are under £20. We started with a couple of antipasti. Straightaway the ‘Coccoli with Proscuitto & Stracchino’ caught our eye as we enjoyed a similar dish, ‘Sgabei’, in the Lunigiana region of Tuscany. Coccoli (as they are known in Florence) or Sgabei are deep-fried puffs of dough. They are the perfect accompaniment to salty prosciutto and creamy Stracchino cheese. The Coccoli at Brutto are fantastically light and very moreish – along with the prosciutto and stracchino they passed our stringent tasting test with flying colours! We also chose the ‘Vegetable Crudites with Olive Oil and Lemon’; raw and unadorned yet incredibly tasty vegetables served with new season olive oil which was grassy and peppery, it was a wonderful, clean-tasting dish. Moving on to main courses, there was ‘Penne con Vodka’ – we couldn’t say no to this dish as at home we often cook this recipe from the Brutto cookbook (find the recipe here!), the restaurant version was equally good; if I’m honest a little better than our homecooked version as the sauce was slightly richer – I’m guessing they cook it for longer over a very low heat. We also chose the ‘Salsicce di Miale e Finocchio con Lenticche e Senape’, beautifully meaty sausages with a hint of fennel served with lentils and mustard. It was the lentils which shone out in this dish, it was obvious that they had been cooked in a rich flavoursome vegetable stock – they were delicious! Finally dessert, ‘Pannacotta with rhubarb’, I can’t think of a better way to celebrate the new season rhubarb – it was a fantastic end to a very enjoyable meal!
With good food at a good price, eating at Brutto is undoubtedly a joyous occasion… and in addition, there’s those Negronis!
November 2024
Rochelle Canteen opened back in 2004, but it’s only now, twenty years later, that I’ve eaten at this east London institution; yes, I’m rather late to the party! Initially, Rochelle Canteen opened as more of a café serving only breakfast and lunch, it was a casual affair for those in the know. However, later it acquired a licence to serve both alcohol and dinner, and it hasn’t looked back. It’s a quirky restaurant and all the better for it. Firstly I’ll warn you that finding this restaurant is no easy feat, even with your friend ‘Mr Google’. Last Saturday night we found ourselves walking around in circles. The address is Playground Gardens but you’ll find it easier to deliver yourself to Arnold Circus, where you’ll come across an inconspicuous door within a brick wall, beside which there are a row of buzzers – one belongs to Rochelle Canteen (you’ll need the torch on your phone if it’s dark!). Once you’ve pressed the buzzer you can enter the inner sanctum, a walled garden, which I’m told is wonderful in the summer but even on the cold, dark evening we visited it was rather thrilling to enter this secret oasis. At the end of a little path you’ll find an old Victorian school building and in its converted bike shed you’ll find Rochelle Canteen. Although Shoreditch High St is just a stones-throw-away the hustle and bustle of London seems a very long way off. After the ‘cloak and dagger’ entrance the restaurant itself seems rather casual – the main ‘shed’ houses some of the tables but the majority are in the ‘conservatory’, which is a rather temporary-looking addition. Fortunately, I had heard about the layout, and if I’m honest it was one of the reasons I hadn’t visited before as I had worried it was more of a ‘fair weather’ type of place, which with our UK weather leaves a lot to be desired. But fear not, this conservatory is well insulated and even on the miserable winter evening that we visited it was warm and inviting.
Finally, after our slightly stressful but exciting entrance, we were seated at our table!.. And greeted by a short but enticing menu. Food is, of course, the real secret to Rochelle Canteen’s success, yes there’s the frisson of entering its hidden and unusual location but it’s the simple, seasonal menu which really attracts. My starter was ‘Quail and Aioli’, roasted and charred with the most delicious aioli that had just the right balance of garlic. Nick opted for ‘Smoked Haddock Fritter & Tartare Sauce’, the fritters were crisp on the outside and wonderfully fluffy on the inside, however, it was the fresh tartare sauce that made them sing. Our main courses were ‘Mallard, Cavallo Nero, Carrots & Crab Apple’ and ‘Pork Chop, Turnips, Kale & Mustard Sauce’. Both the mallard and pork chop were cooked to perfection whilst the vegetables were the highlight of both dishes, they had the quality of seasonal freshness and were seriously tasty; we also ordered the side dish of new potatoes – they were some of the best I’ve tasted for a long time! Finally desserts, ‘Bread Pudding, Butterscotch & Vanilla Ice Cream’ and ‘Chocolate Terrine & Brandy Prunes’. Nick exclaimed that the bread pudding was as good as his mum’s – high praise indeed! Whilst the chocolate terrine was rich and moreish – gloriously indulgent with the brandy prunes.
The meal was totally unfussy and delicious – informal cooking at its best. Now that I know exactly where Rochelle’s Canteen is and how warm and friendly its atmosphere is, I shall be visiting again soon; lunch in January is on my agenda and come summer I’ll be booking a table in their garden… I suggest you too search out this hidden gem!
October 2024
It’s been quite some time since my last review for the simple reason that I’ve been struggling to find somewhere that I was happy to recommend. Eating out is, like everything else, getting more expensive and with this price increase I’m naturally becoming more demanding. I was beginning to ask myself if I should lower my expectations, then last week Café Cecilia ticked all the boxes that a good restaurant should and at a justifiable price…
To be honest, this wasn’t my first visit to Café Cecilia as I’d had lunch there a few years ago. It was lunch with an old friend so we were concentrating on catching up rather than on the food; a review wasn’t on my mind despite the food being delicious! Afterwards, as it’s not on my doorstep, I put Café Cecilia to the back of my mind. However, just recently I was fortuitously reminded of it by, of all people, the cookery book writer, Diana Henry. In September, I happened to go to a book signing for her newly re-published book, ‘Crazy Water, Pickled Lemons’; she’s a fantastic speaker and during her entertaining talk she happened to mention that Café Cecilia was one of her favourite restaurants. So, I knew that I had to make the effort to go over to Hackney sooner rather than later…
Café Cecilia can be found just off Hackney’s Broadway Market, overlooking Regents Canal under the uncompromising eye of two massive, redundant gas holders. It’s a view which suits the restaurant’s industrial interior perfectly; white walls, a high exposed ceiling, an open kitchen and simple wooden tables. This open style is unforgiving to sound – it’s loud in Café Cecilia, however, although you might have to shout to be heard when you order there’s a great vibe. The room overflows with energy, this is a restaurant that’s all about socialising and of course, there’s the fantastic food!.. On paper, the menu is short and simple, but don’t be fooled as flavours are abundant. I started with the ‘Haddock Chowder’, this wasn’t a soupy chowder but a rich, smoky flavoured sauce-like soup with meaty pieces of haddock and floury pieces of potato – it was fabulous. Nick ordered the ‘Bitter Leaves, Figs, Brunswick Blue & Walnuts’; a radicchio salad dressed in a wonderful cheesy vinaigrette with a touch of sweetness from balsamic figs. In addition, he couldn’t resist ordering their signature ‘Sage & Anchovy Fritti’. Unfortunately, as they’re laden with gluten I couldn’t try them but he assured me that they were most excellent; crunchy, salty morsels which were completely addictive – he easily ‘scoffed the lot’ without any help! My main course was ‘Onglet, Chips & Peppercorn Sauce’, simple on paper and to the eye but full of flavour. The steak was cooked to perfection, chargrilled and smoky, served with a well-seasoned, creamy peppercorn sauce – it was seriously good. Then of course there were the chips, they really know how to serve a chip here; light, crisp and not too greasy! Nick’s choice was ‘Brill with Potato, Fennel & Butter Sauce’, the brill was cooked beautifully whilst the dauphinoise potato was delicious on the side, it was a simple yet well-flavoured dish. Finally desserts, an ‘Apple Tart’ and a ‘Chocolate & Olive Oil Mousse’. Whilst one was light the other was on the heavy side but both were fabulous! The rich chocolate mousse was cut by a drizzle of olive oil, a dash of sea salt and a dollop of crème fraiche, plus there was a smidgen of caramel – it was all dangerously moreish and absolutely meant to be shared!
February 2024
During the dreary days of January and early February, I often have to force myself to venture out to dinner and when I do I often seek the comfort of restaurants that I’ve already tried, tested and thus reviewed – hence the lack of my reviews recently. There have been a couple of new places that I’ve tried but they were all rather disappointing so didn’t inspire me to take ‘pen to paper’. In fact, I was beginning to think I’d lost my knack for finding new, good restaurants but then, thankfully, Nick came to my rescue. Last weekend he surprised me with lunch at a new Italian restaurant, ‘Dalla’.
Dalla can be found in Hackney. Of course, we all know that these days Hackney is ‘very on trend’ but as we were navigating our way to Dalla it felt as if we were on the grittiest side of this east-end postcode and I was beginning to question Nick’s choice. However, I then spotted Dalla on a street corner. With its half-curtained windows and fresh, simple exterior, it looked very inviting, and stepping through its front door was a revelation – a complete contrast to the grey world outside. It’s obvious that everything in its tiny dining room has been curated with thought. The interior has an understated elegant, yet homely style whilst the warm welcome from the staff leaves you with no doubt that this is a friendly neighbourhood joint.
Snugly seated at our table, we relaxed into the atmosphere, I was particularly pleased to see that they had their tiny kitchen open onto the dining room; I do love seeing chefs at work and I had a prime view of the chef plating up the dishes. The short, concise menu is rather like the interior, the flavours are elegant yet homely – this is refined Italian food but it hasn’t forgotten its roots. I started with ‘Whipped Salt Cod with Roasted Polenta’, the salt cod was probably the creamiest and most delicious I have tasted, and served with the charred polenta slices it was a fantastic antipasti course. Nick ordered the ‘Tagliatelle with Venison Ragu’, the homemade pasta was wonderfully light – the perfect companion to the rich meaty ragu. We then moved on to our main courses, I chose ‘Stuffed Guinea Fowl with Wild Chicory’, the guinea fowl was beautifully moist whilst the chicory stuffing with its slightly bitter taste complemented the sweet meat and its rich gravy. Nick couldn’t resist the special of the day which was a ‘Sirloin Steak with Minestra Nera’. It was a simple dish but done well, a quality cut of meat served with minestra nera which is an Italian leafy vegetable a little like cavalo nero that was served simply stirred-fried with olive oil and garlic. Both of our main course dishes were large portions and with hindsight, we wish we had decided to share just one between us and instead have an extra antipasti dish (the frittata with balsamic vinegar looked good, as did the artichokes with ricotta!). Despite feeling rather stuffed we, of course, had room for dessert. Nick had to try their ‘Tiramasu’ which was again a generous portion – and very good. I opted for a lighter dessert, ‘Spiced Poach Pear’- delicately spiced it was the perfect end to a wonderful meal.
Leaving the cosy dining room of Dalla we were quickly transported back to reality. When enjoying our meal I had half imagined being in Italy but unfortunately, we didn’t walk out onto a little side street in Florence, instead Hackney greeted us! However one shouldn’t complain, as how lucky we are to have this lovely little restaurant in London!
September 2023
(SADLY ELINE HAS NOW CLOSED – SUCH A SHAME!)
We had two very different dining experiences last week. Our first dinner was to celebrate Felix’s 23rd birthday so we chose a fashionable central London restaurant which apart from being ‘Instagrammable’ has a reputation for good food. Unfortunately the restaurant, ‘Fallow’, was a huge disappointment; although the starters were promising the main courses and desserts were underwhelming, while the service was chaotic and the bill was hefty. We came away with that bitter taste of being ‘ripped off’; more fool us for believing the ‘Hype’! In contrast the following evening Nick and I ate at ‘Eline’, an unassuming restaurant which proves that sometimes less is more…
Eline can be found in a quiet corner of Hoxton, its modern dining room with its Scandi-vibes has a calming atmosphere. Nothing is over fancy, everything is done with measured style including the food; the menu is small yet sophisticated. We started with a little snack with a couple of cocktails, ‘Panisse & Harissa’ were light and moreish. I then opted for the ‘Fig & Fried Artichoke, Ricotta & Hazelnut’ which was an elegant, simple starter in which every element was wonderfully fresh. Nick chose the ‘Crab Bisque, Prawn & Brown Crab Toast’, this was a stand-out dish – the tasty prawn and brown crab paste was sandwiched between the thinnest slices of toast, it was seriously good (the ultimate snack?!..). Moving on to our main courses, ‘Cod en Croute, Barigoule Fennel & Hollandaise’, was beautifully cooked cod wrapped in greens within a light pastry crust and served with subtly pickled fennel, it was delicious. There was also ‘Venison, Girolles & Roasted Tomato’, the venison was complemented perfectly by the sweetness of the tomato and the freshness of the girolles. Finally desserts, ‘Roast Plum, Vanilla Ice Cream & Nut Crumble’ – a deconstructed subtle crumble which allowed the ‘new season’ plum to sing with its natural flavour. However, it was the ‘Orange Almond Cake, Chocolate & Coffee Ice Cream’ that was the winning treat – what a combination! I feared the chocolate and coffee would overpower the orange but instead, they complemented each other gloriously!
In a world of ‘Hype’ Eline is refreshingly honest, it delivers exactly what it promises and at a price that offers fantastic value (£42 for two courses/ £50 for three). This is a restaurant that deserves to be supported – it’s a keeper.
June 2023
It was no surprise that I was recently eating out in Shoreditch, yes I know that the age range of the socialites in this neighbourhood is well below my ‘fifty something’ age, but many of the restaurants in this very ‘cool’ area are among the very best in London right now. I have to admit that it’s also rather rejuvenating to be surrounded by such a young and vibrant crowd – I just have to remember to not catch a glimpse of my ageing reflection in any of the nearby windows! But in all seriousness, it really is a very happening corner of London for any ‘foodie’… and Brat, with its Michelin star, is a restaurant that continues to draw a crowd on a daily basis.
It was a particularly hot evening when we visited and on entering the dining room with its open kitchen and wood-fired grills, I feared the dining room was going to be too hot and stuffy. However, the beauty of the room is that with its high ceilings it has a wonderful airy atmosphere and its large windows bathe the space with natural light. Despite its wooden panelled walls, it has a modern industrial feel; it’s a little rough around the edges – a bit ‘New York loft-style… and yes, without overusing the word, it’s ‘cool’! It’s also rather noisy, there is a constant hum of excited chatter as each table shouts to be heard over the other – the atmosphere is buzzing. We were visiting with friends and I was quite pleased to be seated at a table for four which was tucked in a corner so offered some relief from the ‘frisson’!
But forget the atmosphere, let’s talk about the food, and yes it deserves to be talked about! Owner/chef Tomos Parry takes his inspiration from the Basque region and apparently, there’s a touch of his Welsh heritage thrown in. The menu is a sharing affair, there is a choice of smaller dishes which would be ideal for couples or a solo diner, but to do the menu justice you’ll need at least three or four mouths so you can try a few dishes plus perhaps their signature dish, a whole turbot, which at £150 isn’t cheap but it feeds four people! Thankfully it wasn’t just Nick and I eating so as a table of four we were able to throw ourselves body and soul into the menu…
First up were a few of the smaller plates, we chose the ‘Grilled Anchovy Bread’, which was a wonderful puffed-up bread with charred edges and salty, buttery flavours. The ‘Chorizo Bites’ were simply the best chorizo I’ve tasted, so good that we greedily ordered another plate! ‘Spider Crab Toast’ were wonderful morsels of sweet crab with charred cabbage on toast – a wonderful take on a crab salad yet much more satisfying with its slightly smoked tang. ‘Mackerel with Grilled Cucumbers’ was an incredibly fresh dish with a delicious broth lifted by the chargrilled mackerel and slightly pickled chunks of cucumber. I was excited to try the seasonal ‘Asparagus with Fresh Cheese & Walnuts’ but it was the only dish of the evening that didn’t quite hit the spot, the flavours although fresh were a little underwhelming. Moving on to the main event, not content to have just the star dish (the Whole Turbot), we also ordered the ‘Hake ‘Pil Pil’ with Clams’, I’m very glad we did as I loved the soft, flaky hake in a velvety sauce with garlicky overtones surrounded by fresh herbs and salty clams. The ‘Whole Turbot’, was undeniably the star of the show, cooked on a wood-fired grill it was proudly presented to us by one of the chefs who explained how to enjoy the best of this meaty fish from its plump sweet cheeks and the rich, oily flesh around the collar, to its soft fillets and crispy fins – it was all delicious (not to mention the smoky roast potatoes on the side!). Finally, dessert… yes, we were rather stuffed but couldn’t say no to trying their ‘Burnt Cheesecake & Rhubarb’, a traditional Basque cheesecake perfectly complemented by tangy poached rhubarb. Interestingly though, it was the ‘Olive Oil Ice Cream with Strawberries’ which won my heart, on paper it didn’t necessarily sound striking, but believe olive oil ice cream is a dream; creamy and smooth with a slightly salty edge.
It may be true that Brat is a treat that is best shared with friends, but having said that, if you’re a couple or eating solo don’t miss out, order a few of those smaller plates and sit at the bar where it’s slightly quieter. Its menu will make you smile!..
(Apologies for the quality of the photos – I was so busy enjoying the company of friends I forgot to concentrate on the camera!..)
Sadly Lyle’s closed its doors in May’25.
February 2023
If you drive regularly in London you’ll know that it’s becoming increasingly ‘testing’, with a 20mph limit and unpopular LTN’s (grrr!) getting from A to B has never been more difficult. So before I had even eaten at ‘Lyle’s’ it was already in my good books as it’s right opposite Shoreditch station which is more or less a direct train journey from my doorstep! Of course, not driving meant that Nick and I could both indulge in a couple of drinks, so we were thrilled to find that Lyle’s is also a stones-throw from the ‘Seed Library’, a laid-back cocktail bar which is the perfect venue for pre-dinner cocktails. Our dinner at Lyle’s was off to I good start and I hadn’t even tasted the food(!), but thankfully the main event did not disappoint…
I’ll admit that although I like the buzz of this increasingly popular corner of London, Shoreditch is a little gritty. But fear not, Lyle’s is an oasis of calm. The interior is rather stark and industrial but it manages to pull off a warm, welcoming ambience. This stripped-back style perfectly complements the pared-back-fine-dining that chef, James Lowe, has become renowned for – Lyle’s has a Michelin star. Dinner is a seven-course tasting menu (al a carte is served at lunch), and on the evening that we visited the meal kicked off with ‘Oyster & Blood Orange’, which, with its citrus overtones was a wonderfully fresh and unusual pairing. There was also ‘Ox Heart & Black Garlic Toast’ – yes I know that on paper that doesn’t sound appetising, but believe me it was a deliciously sweet, savoury offering. Meanwhile ‘Chicory, Pear & Spenwood’ had classic flavours, the Spenwood cheese was creamy yet with the right balance of piquancy to make this dish a ‘cut above’. It was the following two courses that particularly thrilled us and demonstrated that Lowe’s cooking merited his accolades; ‘Celeriac, Alexandra & Lovage’ was a dream of dazzling fresh flavours – the herbs in the creamy sauce literally sung – I was almost tempted to lick the plate! ‘Scallop, Tema Artichokes & Preserved Lemon’ was my favourite dish of the evening, the sweetness of the scallops was subtly balanced by the lemony sauce. Next up was the main event, ‘Hereford Forerib, Pumpkin & Radicchio’, a beautifully tender piece of beef alongside the caramel flavours of pumpkin and bitterness of radicchio served in a salty broth, again it was a tasty, well-balanced dish. Finally dessert, ‘Rhubarb Parfait, Jelly & Oat Crumble’, creamy and tangy – doing justice to the season’s first crop of rhubarb. Our meal was utterly delicious, the intricate flavour combinations that worked effortlessly together proved that Lowe has undeniable talent. If I had to change one thing it would be the addition of a small pre-dessert, perhaps a sorbet, as it seemed that after the five course build-up to the main event, the beef, the meal finished rather abruptly with the dessert. This is a suggestion rather than a criticism. With food as good as this and service which was slick and unpretentious Nick and I will definitely return to Lyle’s, perhaps for lunch to try their al carte menu; I will be checking the train timetable soon!…
June 2022
Since it opened in Shoreditch just before Christmas, I’ve been meaning to visit the Italian restaurant, Manteca. I finally used the excuse of a lunch date with a friend to check it out a few weeks ago. I was duly impressed but felt that we hadn’t done the menu justice, so I decided to return promptly with Nick, who, with his healthy appetite, is the perfect partner for trying restaurants as it gives me the opportunity to order lots of dishes!…
Manteca can be found in a gritty, trendy corner of Shoreditch, an area which exudes energy – it’s the perfect location for this restaurant with its buzzing atmosphere. The open kitchen pulses at the heart of the restaurant and the dining room soaks up its chaotic spirit; they do have additional seating downstairs but I much preferred being seated upstairs with the action! Manteca concentrates on ‘nose-to-tail’ cooking, they even have their own in-house salumeria. It’s all about the quality of the produce. The simple sharing menu allows the food to sing, there are small plates and larger ‘main event’ dishes. To begin with Nick and I enjoyed a few of the smaller plates. ‘Sun Sweet Melon & Culatello’, was probably some of the best melon I’ve tasted in a long time, both here and in Italy, whilst the Culatello ham was wonderfully flavoursome – they were both undoubtedly quality ingredients! ‘Pig Skin Ragu’ was served with a puffed, crispy crackling, which could be dipped into the incredibly tasty ragu. The ragu is reason enough to visit the restaurant – it’s Italian home cooking at its very best. ‘Sea Bass Crudo’ was served with fermented cucumber, lemon and fennel and a beautifully rich olive oil, the flavours were fresh, clean and delicious. Manteca is particularly renowned for its hand-rolled pasta, this was another reason why it was important for me to have my side-kick, Nick, with me because being gluten-free I couldn’t try it. Nick assured me that the ‘Brown Crab Cacio e Pepe’ was incredibly good; the tonnarelli pasta was perfectly ‘al dente’ and the silky sauce perfectly complemented it. I must admit to having a sneaky spoonful of the sauce, it was divine, rather than a seafood flavour, the crab added an earthy, buttery robustness to the pasta. Moving on to the ‘main event’ dish, we chose the ‘Saddleback Pork Chop’ and ‘Grilled Greens with Salsa Rossa’. The pork was, without doubt, one of the best pork chops I’ve had, it was succulent with a wonderful wood-fired flavour, the grilled greens with the smoky slightly piquant salsa were particularly good on the side. Finally, desserts were a perfect end to a fabulous meal – a creamy ‘Zabaglione with Summer Fruits’ and a crumbly, moist ‘Cherry & Almond Cake’.
Manteca is one of those restaurants which feeds the soul and leaves you thinking of your return visit. I would recommend that you check it out at the soonest opportunity, just make sure you visit on an empty stomach as you will want to devour as many dishes on the menu as possible!…
Leroy, Shoreditch, EC2 (*Closed Nov’24)
February, 2022
Sadly Leroy closed its doors in Nov’24.
‘Leroy’ is the type of place that instantly makes you feel cool, even if you’re fifty-something like me! Last Friday night, I was instantly enchanted by its gentle vibe; behind the bar, there was a shelf of vinyl that provided unobtrusive sounds to create an effortless atmosphere, whilst the simple interior was unassuming but definitely stylish. As the evening progressed the music was turned up a notch and the atmosphere followed suit. Seated at our table, I realised that this was the type of restaurant where I could easily, simply sit and enjoy the atmosphere with a glass of wine or one of their cocktails and forget about eating… indeed, I was already on my second martini by the time our food arrived!
The menu is simple but well-executed. Plates are designed for sharing, which we did, but with hindsight, I wish we had ordered solo – I noticed a neighbouring table do this and I think ‘I missed a trick’. We started with ‘Mackerel, Oyster Mayonnaise, Horseradish’, it had subtle pickled and perfectly balanced flavours. This was followed by ‘Chicory, Walnut, Ossau-Iraty’, which was a little disappointing as the salty ‘Ossau-Iraty’ cheese overwhelmed the dish. Next up was ‘Pollock, Cauliflower, Chorizo, Mussels’, this was a great dish, the pollock was beautifully cooked with a creamy sauce that was brought to life by the salty mussels and the punch of crispy chorizo. Our final ‘main course’ was ‘Duck, Roast Cabbage, Pear, Foie Gras’, this was very tasty, the richness of the duck and foie gras was balanced by the pear and cabbage. Both of our desserts were ‘stand out’ dishes. ‘Rhubarb & Custard’, was simply stunning – really good! And ‘Chocolate, Coffee Caramel, Hazelnut’, was very moreish, the salted caramel deliciously cut the chocolate.
Next time I visit Leroy, I’ll be ordering my own plates (perhaps the Mackerel followed by the Pollack….and two desserts!). However, in all honesty, Leroy isn’t necessarily a restaurant that you visit just for its food, it’s the buzzing yet relaxed atmosphere that is key to its success. Although the food had great flavours and was well executed, I’m not sure it merits the restaurant’s Michelin star, but as a part of the ‘Leroy’ package, with its friendly staff, relaxed vibe, great wine list, you really can’t go wrong!
November 2021
One of the downsides of living in a city like London is that as soon as a new restaurant opens to rave reviews, everyone seems to know about it and it’s nigh on impossible to get a reservation. So, when my girlfriend and I managed to nab a table for lunch at ‘Sessions Arts Club’, the new ‘darling’ of the London restaurant scene, I was very excited – it was quite a feat considering the rave reviews and that they are only open Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays. I was a little sceptical that the experience could live up to my expectations, but on entering the dining room I was sold – and I hadn’t even tasted the food!…
Sessions Arts Club is housed in an old 18th Century Courthouse in Clerkenwell, from the outside there is little to indicate the restaurant inside – just a smart, almost hidden red door with a bell. This, of course, gives it the feel of a private club making the experience all the more special. Walking through the door you are engulfed by the intoxicating smell of scented candles, and from the cosy lobby, you take a lift up to the dining room. Entering the room, I literally felt myself swoon, it’s like walking onto a crumbling Regency-style set, with shabby chic interiors and faded plaster walls, it is both theatrical and romantic. The ceiling is incredibly high and with the arch windows, the space is light-filled and airy. There are also two outdoor terraces, which although on this particular November day it was a little too cold to enjoy, I couldn’t resist taking a peek! This is the kind of space which I could very easily live in!..
Then of course there is the food…Florence Knight is well regarded within the restaurant world having trained under Raymond Blanc, and now, as the chef at Sessions Arts Club, she is working her magic, introducing deliciously delicate, seasonal flavours to a wonderful menu of sharing plates. We started with the ‘Panisse, Lemon Thyme & Sea Salt’, I have always enjoyed these chickpea fritters, but I must say that these were particularly light and crisp – a must-try on the menu! There was also ‘Purple Sprouting Broccoli, Cannellini Bean & Lemon’, the broccoli was tastily chargrilled with a creamy cannellini purée lifted by the acidity of lemon, whilst ‘Sea Bream, Fig Leaf & Sorrel’ was a completely different dish with a slightly Japanese style, the ceviche of sea bream was curiously but beautifully flavoured. Moving on to the more substantial dishes, we chose ‘Hake, Watercress & Ratte Potato’, this was one of the simpler dishes yet well-executed, the salted hake was cooked to perfection and wonderfully cut by the buttery potatoes. The show-stopping dish was ‘Rabbit, Borlotti & Nocellara Olive’(unfortunately I was so enthralled by it that I forgot to take a photo!), it was one of the best rabbit dishes I have had for a very long time, the rabbit was cooked confit style and was incredibly moist, flavoured with lemon and herbs, I must admit that I couldn’t distinguish the olives, but it was no matter – the dish was sublime! Finally, desserts were a ‘Chocolate Tart’, its crisp, dark chocolate biscuit base was filled with an equally chocolatey mousse filling, it was divine! Then there was ‘Panna Cotta & Black Figs’, panna cotta is one of those desserts which restaurants can very often get wrong, with just a touch too much of gelatine it becomes heavy and overset, but fortunately, this panna cotta was flawless – creamy and light, perfectly matched by the sweet figs in a syrupy red wine sauce.
By the end of the meal, I had already promised myself a return visit – both for the food and atmosphere. Sessions Arts Club is equally good for groups as it is for a romantic date for two, or even alone – sitting up on their mezzanine level, I could easily have whiled away my time watching the dining ‘scene’ below. It is a place to see and be seen at – yet it is unpretentious; the staff are welcoming and the service is friendly. So, do try and get a table there soon, you won’t be disappointed!…
September 2021
I don’t usually start my reviews by saying “eat at this restaurant”….so pay attention when I say, “you must try ‘Behind’!”…We ate at ‘Behind’ on Saturday night and I felt the need to share our fantastic experience with you straight away…
Andy Beyon opened ‘Behind’ in October 2020, which was, considering covid, a bold decision yet just twenty days later he received his first Michelin star – quite a feat! From its relaxed Scandinavian-style interior, ‘Behind’ offers a wonderful fine dining concept; guests are served its 8-course ‘fish focussed’ tasting menu at the same time, seated around a large, spacious semicircular table that faces an open kitchen. By having such a great view of the kitchen, each guest can see ‘behind the scenes’ – hence the restaurant’s name.
On Saturday evening, we were shown to our seats by one of the chefs; there are no waitresses at Behind, instead, Beyon and his three sous-chefs take it in turns to serve their delicious dishes. Having the food ‘hand delivered’ by the chefs is another wonderful concept that makes the whole dining experience fully immersive and intimate – it’s very special, like being at a friends for dinner, only the cooking is far better! In addition, there is no written menu, we were told that it would be a ‘surprise’ and that the courses would be personally introduced when they arrived at the table. It was all rather exciting and, what a show it turned out to be!.. Each course featured a fantastic, complex array of flavours, I’m afraid I haven’t the vocabulary to describe each one in the fashion it deserves plus it would need far too many words, all I can say is that every course was incredible. Highlights were the ‘Scottish Crab Spiced Victoria Plum’, white crab meat was served on a delicate jelly and custard, made from the brown crab meat; the beautifully concentrated seafood flavour was perfectly matched by the sweetness of the Victoria plum whilst on the side, there was a tasty crab bisque – it was heavenly. ‘Roasted Hake, Palorde Clams & Sherry’, was equally divine, the Hake was cooked to perfection with a creamy broth and foam which literally made the dish sing with flavour. The fish croquette that was served on the side was a revelation, the ‘bread crumbs’ weren’t made from bread but fish scales – who would have known that they could be so tasty! ‘Guinea Fowl, Pumpkin & Seed’, was the single meat course, it was unbelievably well done; the guinea fowl had been rolled and cooked sous-vide, which resulted in the most tender and succulent guinea fowl I have tasted, it was served with a sublime sauce which was lifted by the sweetness of chargrilled pumpkin. The desserts were as delicious, they included an intense herb sorbet which on serving we were challenged to guess the three herbs it contained – the flavours were fabulous and intense; I won’t spoil the challenge by telling you its three components, you will have to try it yourself!…
‘Behind’ is the most immersive dining experience I have had, for someone like me who loves cooking it was naturally a dream to watch Beyon and his sous chefs prepare the dishes, but even if you’re not a keen cook you will appreciate the showmanship. It is mesmerising to watch the four chefs seamlessly move from the heat of the kitchen to professional table service and still manage to entertain their guests with a little chatter. Softly spoken and down to earth, Beyon is relaxed and open – the perfect host, at one point we asked about his background, it turns out that he has learnt his art on the job with stints at fine dining restaurants both in the UK (including Claude Bosi – see review here!) and abroad (Chicago). Judging by the fantastic menu we enjoyed on Saturday night, it would seem that he has taken the very best from this work experience. You would think that a fine dining experience like this would be an extortionate price, but at £74 a head (£42 for the 6-course lunch!) it’s a steal, and what can I say, you would be silly not to try it… You’ve been told!…
September 2021
One of the things that I love about living in London is the endless array of restaurants it offers. Not only are there the constant flow of new openings with their exciting and fashionable flavours, but there are the older restaurants that escape our radars and are still to be discovered. Smiths of Wapping is one of those restaurants; having opened 10 years ago, despite its wonderful reputation for its fish, I only discovered it recently thanks to friends who have moved nearby.
On our recent visit, I enjoyed its informal, buzzy atmosphere and its rather ‘old school’ style; it’s the type of place where you could take your grandparents for Sunday lunch or on the other hand have a romantic meal for two. It’s reliable, like an old friend, you know exactly what to expect – a classic menu with the freshest fish cooked simply and superbly, plus it has the most wonderful view over Tower Bridge. On entering the restaurant there is no indication of the magnificent view it offers until you turn the corner from its rather nondescript reception; the dining room has floor to ceiling windows that overlook the Thames, there is honestly not a bad table in the house – the view is inescapable.
If you don’t like fish this is probably not the restaurant for you as Smiths is essentially a fish restaurant, they are very proud of their reputation for serving the freshest sustainable seafood – there are meat options, but ‘why would you?’…. On our recent visit, we enjoyed starters of ‘Tian of Avocado, Cornish White Crab & Peeled Prawns’ which was beautifully presented with exceptional, well-balanced flavours. The ‘Sweet Cured Arctic Herring Fillets, Chive Potato Salad & English Watercress’ were also seriously good – the sweet pickled herrings were perfectly cut by the creamy chive potato salad. Moving on, the extensive list of main courses included fish cooked in just about every way. Nick opted for the ‘Brixham Dover Sole’ meuniere style whilst I chose the ‘Fillet of Wild Cornish Turbot’, plainly grilled; both were incredibly fresh and cooked to perfection, in fact, the fillet of turbot was one of the best I have had. Finally, the dessert menu offered no surprises with its traditional fare, Nick chose a favourite, ‘Sticky Toffee Pudding’ which was ‘fantastic(!)’ and I ordered the ‘Crème Brulee’, which was well done, rich and creamy.
So, if fish is your thing, Smiths of Wapping would definitely be on my list of restaurant recommendations, you won’t be disappointed with its classic menu and in addition, there is the view!…
(*Smiths of Wapping is the sister restaurant of Smiths of Ongar (in Essex), it opened in 1958!!)
October 2020
This weekend, Nick and I went over to Columbia Road in Hackney, for a stroll and to browse around some of the independent, very ‘on trend ‘ shops. One of these shops included the pop up boutique, Studio Wylder, which belongs to my old friend, Tasha, in which she sells her own designs, including gorgeous one off sheep skin jackets, hand sewn bags and jewellery. It was really refreshing to be around this energetic area of London and, of course, it gave us the perfect excuse to revisit ‘Brawn’, Columbia Road’s neighbourhood restaurant. Situated on a corner plot in a converted warehouse, Brawn’s dining room, a light filled space with a casual interior, was perfect for our lunchtime jaunt. As on our previous, pre-lockdown visits, we found that the atmosphere was ‘buzzy’ and friendly, and most importantly, that the food was delicious.
oops…it was so delicious we tucked in before taking the photo!
The menu is seasonal, with lots of interesting flavours such as the starter of ‘Raw Scallop, Almond, Apple, Sorrel & Horseradish’, which was delicious with beautifully balanced flavours. We also shared a platter of Coppa which was really fresh and flavoursome, and ‘Gnocco Fritto, Schiena’, little pieces of lightly fried dough also wrapped in Coppa, these were very light and moreish. For my main course I chose the ‘Partridge, Rainbow Chard, Quince, Lentils & Pancetta’, it was good, the quince really held this dish together with its slight sweetness which complemented the saltiness of the lentils, however, I must admit to having ‘plate envy’ for Nick’s chosen course, ‘Onglet, Fried Violet Artichokes, Shallots, Anchovy & Chicory’, the flavours of this were divine; the deep fried artichokes particularly stood out. Finally desserts, an amazing ‘Chocolate Tart’ – the fondant was smooth whilst the pastry base was crisp and light, and a ‘Vanilla Rice Pudding, Figs, Walnuts & Boozy Prunes’ – need I say more?…it was a perfect autumn afternoon hug!
Although Brawn isn’t necessarily cheap, it is the type of place where you could pop in for just one course with a glass of wine to simply enjoy the casual, friendly dining room (they have an interesting wine list of mostly biodynamic wines). It definitely isn’t a bad place to while away an afternoon or an evening!…
September 2020
Following the recommendation posted on the Instagram page of one of my favourite cookbook writers, Diana Henry, we tried a new restaurant last week, Daffodil Mulligan.
By its own admission Daffodil Mulligan ‘embodies the heart, soul and mischief of the Irish, but with international food influences’, I was intrigued to see what this meant exactly!…I must admit on entering the restaurant I was a little sceptical, as it was rather like a modern American bar with tables, not my preferred choice of interior, whilst the ambience was quite lively and rather noisy. When seated at our table we were hit by how cold it was, and looking around we noticed that most people were wearing their layers – the woman seated near to me was wearing her partner’s jacket! When I asked the waiter if it was possible to turn down the air conditioning he apologised, saying that it wasn’t possible and that it was something to do with Covid(?) – I must admit I didn’t actually catch the full explanation as it was muffled by his mask!…Anyway I ended up wearing my leather jacket throughout the evening.
So all in all not the best start to our night out! But, of course we were there for the food and that didn’t disappoint …
Mango Salsa
Autumn Spice Ice Cream
We started our meal with a couple of ‘Old Fashioned’ cocktails – they were really well made, properly with bourbon rather than whiskey (my pet hate), so this definitely warmed us up – a bit!
The menu has lots of small tasting plates as starters, in this way the restaurant is more suited to groups of friends rather than couples, as you really do want to share as many as possible – they all sounded delicious. Nick and I shared the Salt Chilli Chicken with Cucumber Pickles and Beef Tartare with Oyster Cream, they were generous portions; both were really unusual, delicious and moreish. For our main courses , I choose the ‘Hannan’s Sugar Spit Pork, Swiss Chard, Gochujang & Smoked Tomato’, the pork was seriously good, literally falling of the bone, it had a beautiful sweet, smoked flavour subtly spiced with the gochujang (the only regret I have is that my waiter didn’t advise me to order a side dish, which it needed, as it was literally just a piece of meat with a few leaves of rainbow chard). Nick chose the ‘Prawn Goan Curry with Ginger & Mango Salsa’, an unusual choice for him, one which the waiter had recommended as they had run out of the sirloin that he had wanted(!), it was good but not groundbreaking, probably not the best choice. Desserts were superb, I had ‘Wood Fire Fig, Brown Sugar Meringue, Mascarpone & Autumn Spice Ice Cream’ – the figs were unusually spiced and beautifully complemented by the brown sugar meringue, Nick had the fantastic ‘Caramel Crème with Tipsy Prunes & Sable’ – the prunes soaked in Armagnac were the winner here!.
So, would I recommend Daffodil Mulligan?…from a food perspective definitely – I’m pleased to say that, unsurprisingly, Diana Henry was right on this level! However, if you do visit I would recommend you do so with friends, it’s not really suited to couples both from the noise level and from the point of view that being in a group would allow you to share more of the delicious starters! Finally, make sure you wear a couple of layers as the air conditioning is a killer!…
Menu Mistress 