Just recently I was reading an article in which two cookery book writers discussed their kitchen styles, addressing the pros and cons of clutter vs clarity. Because I’d presumed it was better, I’d always been proud of being a cook who preferred clarity in the kitchen; my countertops are a minimalist’s dream. However, after reading the article in which one of the cooks admitted to being surrounded by cooking clutter, I could see why she embraced this chaos in her kitchen. My spices are hidden from sight but if they were left out on the worktops they could perhaps inspire me to be a little more adventurous, likewise having vegetables out on display can ensure they’re at hand to be thrown in the pot at a whim. So, I asked myself would I be a better cook if I wasn’t as composed?.. which led me to think about New Year resolutions. A lot of New Year resolutions are related to control, but perhaps this year my resolution should be to be less controlled in my kitchen, to throw caution to the wind?.. Hmmm… this is probably another annual resolution I will be breaking but it may be fun to try?!.. And when I fail, I can at least console myself with the fact that the other cook in that aforementioned article, the one who preferred the clear-headed and clutter-free kitchen, had once been a head chef in the Ottolenghi Test Kitchen, which is a pretty good endorsement for being, as I am, a control freak! The bottom line is that whatever type of cook you are, it’s about doing it your way and enjoying it. This, I realised, is a pretty good New Year message to send to you all at the beginning of the new year!

Naturally, this brings me to what we should be cooking in our kitchens this month. January is not only about resolutions but also the month in which we need to relax a little after the hectic and over-indulgent month of December. So, this month’s recipes are undemanding they also happen to be vegetarian – yes, I’m giving you a particularly healthy kickstart to 2025! Menu One is Meera Sodha’s ‘Iraqi Bean Stew’, a wonderfully tasty vegetarian stew made from cannellini beans. It’s topped with a lemony coriander salad which is the all-important finishing touch – don’t overlook this as it gives the stew a delicious zesty kick! Menu Two is ‘Harissa, Sweet Potato and Tomato Stew’ from the cookbook ‘A Love of Eating’. Yes, the list of ingredients is quite long but believe me when I say it’s super easy to make! Once again the toppings of this stew give this dish its full flavour – the fried chickpeas are especially moreish! Finally, Menu Three, ‘Deeply Comforting Tomato Soup’ from Skye McAlpines’s cookbook, ‘A Table Full of Love’, makes a wonderfully quick supper and one which is particularly cheering on any cold, damp January evening!

Happy New Year – here’s to embracing our kitchens in 2025, whatever their style!

(Need some tunes to cook to?.. I’ve recently been revisiting one of my favourite playlists ‘Music to Cook to…MenuMusic Four’ … you can check it out on Spotify!..)

Menu One

Iraqi Bean Stew (Serves 4)

This a wonderfully tasty cannellini bean stew from Meera Sodha’s cookbook, Dinner. It’s topped with a lemony coriander salad which is the all-important finishing touch, don’t overlook this as it gives the stew a delicious zesty kick!

Rapeseed oil, for frying

2 brown onions, peeled and finely chopped

Salt

½ tsp ground black pepper

½ tsp ground cinnamon

1 tsp ground allspice

½ tsp ground cumin

50g fresh coriander, picked, stalks finely chopped

1 x 400g tin chopped tomatoes

2 x 400g tins cannellini beans, drained and rinsed

1 lemon, zested, and juiced, to give about 3 tbsp lemon juice

1. Heat three tablespoons of oil in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan on a medium heat. Once hot, add the onions, a teaspoon of salt, the black pepper, cinnamon, allspice, cumin and coriander stalks, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes, until soft and dark. Keep an eye on it, because you don’t want the onions or spices to catch.
2. When the mix is soft and sweet-smelling, add the tomatoes, beans and 200ml water, bring up to a boil, then simmer for 10 minutes.
3. In a bowl, mix two tablespoons of rapeseed oil, the coriander leaves, lemon zest and juice, and a quarter-teaspoon of salt.
4. To serve, divide the stew between four bowls and top with a generous spoonful of the coriander and lemon oil.

Menu Two

Harissa, Sweet Potato and Tomato Stew (Serves 4)

Yes, the list of ingredients for this recipe is quite long but believe me when I say it’s super easy to make! This is another of those recipes in which the toppings give the dish it’s full flavour, don’t skimp on them – the fried chickpeas are especially moreish! (The original recipe from the cookbook, ‘A Love of Eating’ by Tart, served 2-3 so I have slightly increased the ingredients to serve 4 generously)

1 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, chopped

3 large cloves of garlic, chopped

2 teaspoons coriander seeds

Large bunch coriander, stalks chopped and leaves reserved for garnish

4 tablespoons harissa (I use Belazu ‘rose harissa’)

750g sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

1 x 400g tin chopped tomatoes

1 preserved lemon, finely chopped

1 tablespoon tomato purée

175ml white wine

650ml vegetable stock

1 tablespoon dried oregano

A generous squeeze of honey

2 large handfuls of kale, tough stems removed, leaves roughly chopped

Sea salt and black pepper

For the Goat’s Curd:

100g soft goat’s cheese

100g natural yogurt

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1 tablespoon za’atar

2 lemons, zested

For the Topping:

A glug of olive oil

400g tins of chickpeas drained, rinsed and blot-dried with kitchen roll

6 spring onions, sliced into rounds

1 avocado, stone removed, peeled and cut into cubes

Bunch of oregano leaves, chopped

Handful of pine nuts, toasted (in dry frying pan)

1. Heat the olive oil in a large pan over a medium heat, add the onion, garlic and coriander seeds and sauté for about 5 minutes. Add the coriander stalks, harissa, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, preserved lemon and tomato purée and stir well to combine. Add the wine, stock, oregano and honey and leave to simmer for about 20 minutes.
2. In the meantime make the goat’s curd: mix all the ingredients together, taste and season.
3. Next make the crispy chickpeas: heat the olive oil in a pan until hot then add the chickpeas and fry over a high heat until nice and crispy and slightly charred. Remove from the pan and drain on kitchen paper and season with salt.
4. Taste the stew and season, adding more harissa if necessary. Once the sweet potato is cooked add the kale and cook for another minute or so.
5. Finally, ladle into warmed bowls and top with a good dollop of goat’s curd, the crispy chickpeas, spring onions, avocado, reserved coriander leaves, oregano and pine nuts.

Menu Three

 Deeply Comforting Tomato Soup (Serves 4-6)

This recipe from Skye McAlpines’s cookbook,’ A Table Full of Love’, makes a wonderfully quick supper and is totally cheering on any cold, damp evening!..

30g salted butter

1 onion, chopped

1kg cherry (baby) tomatoes

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

2 teaspoons caster sugar

800ml vegetable stock

Sea salt and black pepper

Olive oil, to serve

1. Melt the butter in a large saucepan over a medium heat. Add the onion and a generous pinch of salt, then fry gently for 3-5 minutes until the onion starts to soften.
2. Add the tomatoes – whole is fine , there is no need to half them unless you are using larger tomatoes – along with the balsamic vinegar and sugar, then cover with the stock.
3. Bring everything to the boil, then reduce the heat and let simmer gently for 30 minutes, until the tomatoes have broken down and very soft.
4. Take the pan off the heat and use a hand-held blender to blitz the soup until smooth. Season to taste and serve warm with a swirl of your best olive oil.

St Germain & Cranberry Cocktail (Serves One)

With its bright red colour and sugared rim this cocktail has a festive feel to it, perfect for a Christmas day pick-me-up! But let’s face it, whatever the occasion, it makes a great drink at any time of the year!…

30ml vodka

30ml 100% cranberry juice

15ml St Germain liqueur

15ml lemon juice

1 teaspoon sugar syrup

Lemon wheel to garnish

*Optional: if you have the inclination you can sugar the rim of the cocktail glass – Sprinkle 1 table spoon of caster sugar onto a small saucer. Rub a wedge of lime along the rim of your glass, then dip it into the sugar so that the entire rim is covered.

1. Simply put all the ingredients in a cocktail shaker, shake for 15 seconds until cold. Strain into a chilled glass, with or without a sugared rim, and garnish with the lemon wheel.

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

Menu Mistress will be taking a break over the festive season…

I will be back Wednesday 8th January with new recipes for 2025!

Florentine Meringue Cake (Serves 6-8)

I wanted to share a sweet treat for December’s ‘Blast From the Past Recipe’, an extra special Christmas treat!.. This Florentine Meringue Cake is a real show-stopping dessert and one which is perfect for the festive season. It’s my interpretation of a recipe I found in Skye McAlpine’s cookbook ‘A Table for Friends’ which layers meringue with a marron glacé-cream filling. I found that this version was overly sweet, plus it seemed a rather extravagant use of the expensive candied ‘marrons’; McAlpine does suggest similar additions such as candied peel, so I started playing around with different cream-filling combinations. I can proudly say I’ve come up with the ultimate meringue cake one which, as its name suggests, is inspired by a favourite of mine, florentines! Despite being incredibly easy to make it looks incredibly impressive on the dinner table; topped with redcurrants frosted with sugar it makes the perfect winter dessert!…

300g caster sugar

6 egg whites

2 teaspoons cornflour

1 teaspoon white wine vinegar

4 tablespoons icing sugar

700ml double cream

200g plain dark chocolate, roughly chopped

40g candied peel, chopped

20-30g soft caramel sweets (I use Werther’s Soft Caramels), roughly chopped

30g pistachio nuts, roughly chopped

To decorate:

Redcurrant sprigs

3 tablespoons caster sugar

*You will need three baking trays and grease-proof paper.

1. On three separate pieces of grease-proof paper draw a circle roughly 23cm in diameter (you could trace around a cake tin). Place each piece of paper on separate baking trays and set aside.
2. Whisk the egg whites until they form soft peaks, then gradually whisk in the caster sugar. Once the egg whites are stiff and glossy gently fold in the cornflour and vinegar. Divide the meringue evenly between the baking trays, using the circles as a guide.
3. Bake in a preheated oven, 130’c fan, for 1 hour, then switch off the oven and leave the meringues there to harden for another hour.
4. Meanwhile, prepare the frosted redcurrants (if using to decorate). Simply dip the redcurrant sprigs in water, then gently roll in the caster sugar and set aside to dry out.
5. When you are ready to serve the meringue cake, sift the icing sugar into the cream and whip until firm but still silky.
6. Set one of the meringue discs on a serving plate and top with one-third of the cream and sprinkle over a third of the chopped plain chocolate, candied peel, caramel and pistachios. Top with the second meringue disc and repeat. Finally, top with the third meringue, followed by the remaining cream, chocolate, candied peel, caramel and pistachios.
7. Finally, if using, decorate the top of the cake with the frosted sprigs of redcurrants.
8. Chill in the fridge until ready to serve, it will keep for up to 12 hours.

Baileys and Praline Roulade

This dessert has ‘Christmas’ written all over it! Baileys is one of those liqueurs which is synonymous with the festive period so you’re bound to have a bottle lying around somewhere to use for this dessert. It’s, obviously, delicious but more importantly easier to make than it looks. Yes, it does tend to crack when you roll it but honestly, that adds to its charm!..

For the praline:

50g blanched hazelnuts

120g caster sugar

For the roulade:

190g egg whites (approx. 5 large eggs)

275g caster sugar

1 teaspoon cornflour

3 tablespoons roasted chopped hazelnuts

For the filling:

300ml double cream

1 teaspoon icing sugar

70ml Baileys Irish Cream

1. Preheat the oven to 180’c fan. Add the blanched hazelnuts to a baking tray lined with baking paper and roast for 10 minutes until they’ve started to brown. Remove from the oven and set aside. Reduce the oven temperature to 150’c, fan.
2. Add the sugar for the praline to a saucepan and heat gently for 4-5 minutes. The sugar will melt around the edges before turning clear. Give the pan a swirl every now and then to ensure it melts evenly, but do not stir it. Once the sugar turns a deep amber colour remove it from the heat and carefully pour it over the nuts on the tray. The sugar will be extremely hot so don’t touch it. Leave the praline to cool and harden.
3. To make the roulade line a baking tray (approx. 25x35cm) with baking paper making sure it comes up the sides. Add the egg whites to a bowl. Using an electric whisk, start to whisk them slowly, gradually increasing the speed to high until the egg whites are stiff. Gradually add the caster sugar a little at a time, continuing to whisk on a high speed until thick and glossy. Now add the cornflour and whisk for another 30 seconds until combined.
4.  Spoon the meringue onto the lined tray, smooth the top and scatter over the chopped hazelnuts. Bake in the preheated oven, 150’c fan, for 25-30 minutes until the meringue looks firm on top. Let it cool for a few minutes before turning it out, hazelnut side down onto a clean sheet of baking paper. Carefully peel off the baking paper from the top of the meringue then leave to cool completely.
5. To make the filling, blitz the set praline in a food processor until fine (or chop with a sharp knife), reserve a little to decorate. Whip the cream, icing sugar and Baileys until thickened, just before it reaches stiff peaks. Fold in the blitzed praline and spread the mixture evenly onto the cooled meringue.
6. Starting from a long side, roll up the meringue using the baking paper underneath to help you. Then carefully lift onto a serving platter. Finally, decorate with the reserved praline. Cut into slices and serve, or if you prefer a cold dessert chill in the fridge for a few hours first.

There is little doubt that most of us are thinking towards that all-important date, December 25th, and about what we’ll be eating with our family and friends! Most of us have our own festive family traditions, so the menu for Christmas Day rarely changes from year to year; I always do a Christmas goose (see my menu here!). But let’s face it, the Christmas season doesn’t last just one day, and if you’re the one who’s hosting there’s definitely the need for a couple of recipes which can easily be doubled (or tripled!) for a crowd…

….Drum Roll Please for Menu Mistress’s December recipes!..

Menu One is ‘Beef, Root Vegetable & Mejool Date Stew’ from the cookbook ‘Sababa’ by Adeena Sussman. It’s a wonderfully comforting, flavourful stew; there’s a subtle sweetness from the dates whilst the unusual addition of preserved lemon at the end of cooking adds an interesting depth to the finished dish. Menu Two is ‘Pork Meatballs with Cider & Chestnuts’ from Claudia Roden’s book, ‘Med’. This is a dish that everyone is bound to love, kids and adults alike! In addition to being easily doubled, both these recipes can be prepared in advance and reheated – the stew in particular tastes even better the day after when the flavours have had time to meld together.

Merry Christmas!.. and for an extra festive sweet treat, check out my Tuesday Treat next week!..

Menu One

Beef, Root Vegetable & Mejool Date Stew (serves 6-8)

This stew from the cookbook ‘Sababa’ by Adeena Sussman is wonderfully comforting and  flavourful; there’s a subtle sweetness from the dates whilst the unusual addition of preserved lemon at the end of cooking adds an interesting depth to the finished dish. Wonderful!

1125g beef stewing meat cut into 2 inch chunks

2 teaspoons salt, plus more for seasoning

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons flour (gluten-free if required)

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large onion, cut into chunks

5 whole garlic cloves, peeled, left whole

3 tablespoons tomato paste

1 teaspoon paprika

200ml dry white wine

825ml beef or chicken stock

2 thyme sprigs

½ teaspoon chilli flakes

900g mixed root vegetables (e.g. potatoes, carrots, parsnips, beets)

8 Medjool dates pitted but left whole

1 tablespoon chopped Preserved lemon (or finely chopped fresh lemon)

1. Season the meat generously with salt and pepper. Place the flour on a plate and roll the meat cubes to coat, shaking off any excess.
2. Heat the oil in a large pot over a medium-high heat. Working in batches, brown the meat until seared on all sides. Remove the meat to a plate.
3. Add the onions and garlic to the pot and cook, stirring, until softened, 6-7 minutes.
4. Add the tomato paste and paprika and cook, stirring, until slightly caramelised, 2 minutes.
5. Add the wine and 2 teaspoons salt, bring to the boil, reduce the heat to medium and cook until the wine is mostly evaporated, 2-3 minutes.
6. Return the meat to the pot along with 600ml of the stock, the thyme and chilli flakes. Bring to the boil, reduce the heat, and cook for 1 hour, until the meat begins to become tender.
7. Add the root vegetables and dates with the remaining 225ml of stock, return to the boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender, about 1 hour more.
8. Finally, stir in the preserved lemon 5 minutes before serving.

Menu Two

Pork Meatballs with Cider & Chestnuts (Serves 4)

Taken from ‘Med’, Claudia Roden’s cookbook, this is a dish which everyone is bound to love, kids and adults alike!..

2 onions, halved and sliced

4 tablespoons olive oil

500g minced pork

A good pinch of ground nutmeg

30g currants or raisins, soaked in water for 30 minutes

25g pine nuts

Plain flour to coat the meatballs (gluten-free if required)

400ml medium-dry cider

180g pack cooked whole chestnuts

Sea salt and black pepper

1. In a large sauté pan, fry the onions in the oil over a low heat for about 10 minutes or until brown and beginning to caramelise, stirring from time to time, then remove them from the pan.
2. Put the meat in a bowl. Add salt, pepper and nutmeg and knead vigorously to achieve a soft, paste like texture. Work in the drained currants or raisins and the pine nuts. Take small pieces of the meat mixture and roll into little balls the size of a large walnut, pressing firmly between the palms of your hands.
3. Roll the meatballs in flour, put them in the pan and cook over a medium heat, turning to lightly brown them all over.
4. Return the fried onions to the pan and add the cider and the chestnuts, along with salt and plenty of black pepper. Simmer for around 15 minutes, covered, turning the meatballs over once, until they are cooked through and you are happy with the consistency of the sauce. Serve with rice or mashed potatoes.