January 2025

Just recently I was reading an article in which two cookery book writers discussed their kitchen styles, addressing the pros and cons of clutter vs clarity. Because I’d presumed it was better, I’d always been proud of being a cook who preferred clarity in the kitchen; my countertops are a minimalist’s dream. However, after reading the article in which one of the cooks admitted to being surrounded by cooking clutter, I could see why she embraced this chaos in her kitchen. My spices are hidden from sight but if they were left out on the worktops they could perhaps inspire me to be a little more adventurous, likewise having vegetables out on display can ensure they’re at hand to be thrown in the pot at a whim. So, I asked myself would I be a better cook if I wasn’t as composed?.. which led me to think about New Year resolutions. A lot of New Year resolutions are related to control, but perhaps this year my resolution should be to be less controlled in my kitchen, to throw caution to the wind?.. Hmmm… this is probably another annual resolution I will be breaking but it may be fun to try?!.. And when I fail, I can at least console myself with the fact that the other cook in that aforementioned article, the one who preferred the clear-headed and clutter-free kitchen, had once been a head chef in the Ottolenghi Test Kitchen, which is a pretty good endorsement for being, as I am, a control freak! The bottom line is that whatever type of cook you are, it’s about doing it your way and enjoying it. This, I realised, is a pretty good New Year message to send to you all at the beginning of the new year!

Naturally, this brings me to what we should be cooking in our kitchens this month. January is not only about resolutions but also the month in which we need to relax a little after the hectic and over-indulgent month of December. So, this month’s recipes are undemanding they also happen to be vegetarian – yes, I’m giving you a particularly healthy kickstart to 2025! Menu One is Meera Sodha’s ‘Iraqi Bean Stew’, a wonderfully tasty vegetarian stew made from cannellini beans. It’s topped with a lemony coriander salad which is the all-important finishing touch – don’t overlook this as it gives the stew a delicious zesty kick! Menu Two is ‘Harissa, Sweet Potato and Tomato Stew’ from the cookbook ‘A Love of Eating’. Yes, the list of ingredients is quite long but believe me when I say it’s super easy to make! Once again the toppings of this stew give this dish its full flavour – the fried chickpeas are especially moreish! Finally, Menu Three, ‘Deeply Comforting Tomato Soup’ from Skye McAlpines’s cookbook, ‘A Table Full of Love’, makes a wonderfully quick supper and one which is particularly cheering on any cold, damp January evening!

Happy New Year – here’s to embracing our kitchens in 2025, whatever their style!

(Need some tunes to cook to?.. I’ve recently been revisiting one of my favourite playlists ‘Music to Cook to…MenuMusic Four’ … you can check it out on Spotify!..)

Menu One

Iraqi Bean Stew (Serves 4)

This a wonderfully tasty cannellini bean stew from Meera Sodha’s cookbook, Dinner. It’s topped with a lemony coriander salad which is the all-important finishing touch, don’t overlook this as it gives the stew a delicious zesty kick!

Rapeseed oil, for frying

2 brown onions, peeled and finely chopped

Salt

½ tsp ground black pepper

½ tsp ground cinnamon

1 tsp ground allspice

½ tsp ground cumin

50g fresh coriander, picked, stalks finely chopped

1 x 400g tin chopped tomatoes

2 x 400g tins cannellini beans, drained and rinsed

1 lemon, zested, and juiced, to give about 3 tbsp lemon juice

1. Heat three tablespoons of oil in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan on a medium heat. Once hot, add the onions, a teaspoon of salt, the black pepper, cinnamon, allspice, cumin and coriander stalks, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes, until soft and dark. Keep an eye on it, because you don’t want the onions or spices to catch.
2. When the mix is soft and sweet-smelling, add the tomatoes, beans and 200ml water, bring up to a boil, then simmer for 10 minutes.
3. In a bowl, mix two tablespoons of rapeseed oil, the coriander leaves, lemon zest and juice, and a quarter-teaspoon of salt.
4. To serve, divide the stew between four bowls and top with a generous spoonful of the coriander and lemon oil.

Menu Two

Harissa, Sweet Potato and Tomato Stew (Serves 4)

Yes, the list of ingredients for this recipe is quite long but believe me when I say it’s super easy to make! This is another of those recipes in which the toppings give the dish it’s full flavour, don’t skimp on them – the fried chickpeas are especially moreish! (The original recipe from the cookbook, ‘A Love of Eating’ by Tart, served 2-3 so I have slightly increased the ingredients to serve 4 generously)

1 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, chopped

3 large cloves of garlic, chopped

2 teaspoons coriander seeds

Large bunch coriander, stalks chopped and leaves reserved for garnish

4 tablespoons harissa (I use Belazu ‘rose harissa’)

750g sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

1 x 400g tin chopped tomatoes

1 preserved lemon, finely chopped

1 tablespoon tomato purée

175ml white wine

650ml vegetable stock

1 tablespoon dried oregano

A generous squeeze of honey

2 large handfuls of kale, tough stems removed, leaves roughly chopped

Sea salt and black pepper

For the Goat’s Curd:

100g soft goat’s cheese

100g natural yogurt

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1 tablespoon za’atar

2 lemons, zested

For the Topping:

A glug of olive oil

400g tins of chickpeas drained, rinsed and blot-dried with kitchen roll

6 spring onions, sliced into rounds

1 avocado, stone removed, peeled and cut into cubes

Bunch of oregano leaves, chopped

Handful of pine nuts, toasted (in dry frying pan)

1. Heat the olive oil in a large pan over a medium heat, add the onion, garlic and coriander seeds and sauté for about 5 minutes. Add the coriander stalks, harissa, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, preserved lemon and tomato purée and stir well to combine. Add the wine, stock, oregano and honey and leave to simmer for about 20 minutes.
2. In the meantime make the goat’s curd: mix all the ingredients together, taste and season.
3. Next make the crispy chickpeas: heat the olive oil in a pan until hot then add the chickpeas and fry over a high heat until nice and crispy and slightly charred. Remove from the pan and drain on kitchen paper and season with salt.
4. Taste the stew and season, adding more harissa if necessary. Once the sweet potato is cooked add the kale and cook for another minute or so.
5. Finally, ladle into warmed bowls and top with a good dollop of goat’s curd, the crispy chickpeas, spring onions, avocado, reserved coriander leaves, oregano and pine nuts.

Menu Three

 Deeply Comforting Tomato Soup (Serves 4-6)

This recipe from Skye McAlpines’s cookbook,’ A Table Full of Love’, makes a wonderfully quick supper and is totally cheering on any cold, damp evening!..

30g salted butter

1 onion, chopped

1kg cherry (baby) tomatoes

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

2 teaspoons caster sugar

800ml vegetable stock

Sea salt and black pepper

Olive oil, to serve

1. Melt the butter in a large saucepan over a medium heat. Add the onion and a generous pinch of salt, then fry gently for 3-5 minutes until the onion starts to soften.
2. Add the tomatoes – whole is fine , there is no need to half them unless you are using larger tomatoes – along with the balsamic vinegar and sugar, then cover with the stock.
3. Bring everything to the boil, then reduce the heat and let simmer gently for 30 minutes, until the tomatoes have broken down and very soft.
4. Take the pan off the heat and use a hand-held blender to blitz the soup until smooth. Season to taste and serve warm with a swirl of your best olive oil.