November 2024

I bought myself an early Christmas present a few weeks ago – yes, I know that we still have weeks until that all-important day but as they say, any old excuse! The gift I presented myself with was a new frying pan. I was truly excited about this pan, until a few weeks later I read an article about PTFE (Teflon) in the Sunday paper. I was disappointed to learn that this non-stick ‘forever’ chemical is still used in so much of our cookware including, after looking at the very small print, my prized pan (if you’ve seen the film ‘Dark Waters’ about the similar chemical PFOA, you’ll understand how I felt!). Admittedly, before discovering its secret, I was so impressed with my new pan’s performance that I’d been planning to recommend it to you but alas, it looks like I’m back to searching for the perfect pan. However, on the upside I do now have the excuse to buy another early Christmas present! So if you have any recommendations for me (and Santa!) I would be indebted to you!..

But, of course, I’m digressing as we’re here to talk about recipes, not the pans they’re cooked in (although both this month’s recipes could have been prepared in ‘that’ pan!). I’m sharing two fantastic recipes this month which are perfect for the colder November evenings. Menu One is ‘Spiced Shepherd’s Pie with Butterbean Crust’ from Ottolenghi’s cookbook, ‘Simple’. And yes, despite being a ‘Shepherd’s Pie’ it’s incredibly easy to make as there is no need to boil and mash potatoes – the topping is simply canned butterbeans which are roughly mashed with a fork; it couldn’t be easier! In addition, it explodes with flavour, there’s spice from the harissa, sweetness from the apricots and a touch of bitterness from the green olives – it’s wonderful! Menu Two is ‘Fricasséed Chicken with Jerusalem Artichokes’. I adore the sweet, nutty flavour of Jerusalem Artichokes so when they’re in season (which they are right now!) I always plan to cook with them more often; this recipe is the perfect way to do so. It’s a one-pan stovetop dish, the texture and nutty flavour of the Jerusalem artichokes complement the tartness of the capers; they both give this chicken dish a wonderful elegance – a treat for both friends and family.

Whatever pan you’re cooking with these two recipes are a simple way to bring a little joy to November!.. See you next week for my ‘Tuesday Treat’!..

Menu One

Spiced ‘Shepherd’s Pie’ with Butterbean Crust (Serves 6)

This is a recipe from Ottolenghi’s cookbook, ‘Simple’. And yes, despite being a ‘Shepherd’s Pie’ it’s incredibly easy to make as there is no need to boil and mash potatoes – the topping is simply canned butterbeans which are roughly mashed with a fork; it couldn’t be easier! In addition, it explodes with flavour, there’s spice from the harissa, sweetness from the apricots and a touch of bitterness from the green olives – it’s wonderful!

90ml olive oil

3 garlic cloves, crushed

3 banana shallots (180g), thinly sliced

600g lamb mince

2 teaspoons cumin seeds

1 tablespoon ground allspice

2 lemons, finely grate the zest to get 2 teaspoons

3 tablespoons tomato paste

3 tablespoons rose harissa (I use ‘Belazu’)

100g dried apricots, quartered

280ml chicken stock

220ml white wine

80g pitted green olives, halved lengthways

3 x 400g tins butterbeans, drained and rinsed

4 tablespoons tahini

Sea salt and black pepper

1. Put 3 tablespoons of oil into a large pan, for which you have a lid, and place on a medium-high heat. Add the garlic and shallots and sauté for 5 minutes, stirring frequently, until soft and golden.
2. Increase the heat to high and add the lamb, cumin, allspice, half the lemon zest and ½ teaspoon salt. Fry for 5 minutes until browned, stirring every now and then, then add the tomato paste, harissa and apricots. Fry for another 2 minutes then pour over the stock and wine. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer, covered for 30 minutes.
3. Once cooked, set aside to cool and add the olives. Spoon into a 20x25cm ovenproof highsided dish and refrigerate for at least half an hour. This will firm up the meat making it easier to spread the mash on top.
4. Meanwhile make the mash. Mix the butterbeans in a bowl with the remaining lemon zest, 2 tablespoons of olive oil, the tahini paste, 3 tablespoons of water, ¾ teaspoon of salt and a grind of black pepper. Use a potato masher to mash the beans, they don’t need to be completely smooth, just spreadable.
5. Spread the mash over the lamb, then use a spoon to make a few shallow dips. Drizzle over the remaining tablespoon of oil and bake in a preheated oven, 180’c fan, for 30 minutes until nicely coloured and bubbly. Rest for 10 minutes before serving.

Menu Two

Fricasséed Chicken with Jerusalem Artichokes (Serves 4-6)

I adore the sweet, nutty flavour of Jerusalem Artichokes and when they’re in season (from October to March) I always plan to cook with them more, this recipe is the perfect way to do so. It’s a one-pan stovetop dish, the texture and nutty flavour of the Jerusalem artichokes complement the tartness of the capers; they both give this chicken dish a wonderful elegance – a treat for both friends and family!

1.5kg chicken cut into 8 pieces or 8 chicken thighs

450g Jerusalem artichokes, peeled and thinly sliced

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon chopped garlic

2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

2 tablespoons capers, drained

Sea salt and black pepper

100ml dry white wine

1. Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan over a medium-high heat. Add the chicken pieces and brown well (you make need to do this in batches). Remove from the pan and place to one side.
2. Put the garlic in the pan and cook until it just becomes coloured a very pale gold, stir frequently.
3. Add the parsley and capers, stir once or twice, then return the chicken to the pan together with any juices they may have shed. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and turn over the ingredients two or three times to coat them well.
4. Add the wine and let simmer for about a minute, then add the sliced artichokes. Turn over the contents of the pan once or twice , then cover with a lid and turn the heat down to low. Cook, turning the chicken pieces and Jerusalem artichokes from time to time for about 45 minutes, until the chicken is cooked and tender.